Well that sucks... Think the trans went from too much power or just age? Just went back and looked at what you've got on the car. Any idea where you're at horsepower wise?

 

Good news, my dad was up in WA for work last week/weekend and was able to pick me up a 6 speed. $1000 134k miles hopefully she holds when he gets back and I can put it in. I believe it broke from too much power. I did a very mild pull in 4th, shifted to 5th and it wasn't there. Went back to 4th and it was fine. Back to 5th and gone. Drove rest of the way to work in 4th and when I got there confirmed 4th was the only gear functional. I can shift into every gear but they all just sound terrible and go nowhere. Now the car is at work waiting to get a tow home. I don't know what power I'm at, but Probably only around 250 or less. Its a gt3071r with a 14lb spring but I'm only seeing 12psi on my gauge and in tunerstudio. I turned on the boost controller the day before it blew. For the day and a half I drove it like that I was still never seeing above 12psi really, but boost was coming on faster. I think the faster boost hit might have just been death to my trans. I don't know I'm definitely no expert, and it feels quick don't get me wrong, but I don't think it feels 300 in a miata quick at least yet. 300 is definitely my goal I was just scared to get there with the 5 speed. Now that I have the 6 speed otw anyways I'm definitely going to be going for that. Hopefully it holds because I can't afford to keep dropping 6 speeds in.

 

Dang dude, RIP to the 5 speed but glad you were able to source another trans quickly. 6 speed should hold no prob with your current setup, just make sure to be nice to it and not lug it at full boost at low rpm in 4th haha.

 

Hey guys got the 6sp to my place last night, noticed it has a bad lower boot. I was looking for a rebuild kit and wondered what one you guys reccommend? I believe its an 02-05 6mt because its out of an 02 special edition but I couldn't say for sure :/. Car is still at work so need to get it towed home and throw it in.

 

The 5 speeds will do a few hours stuck in 4th, ask me how I know. When my team broke a few (on only 185ft/lbs), it wouldn’t go in 4th until we stopped, then raced in 4th for a few hours till checkered. Might save you the tow

lower boot is the same 90-05.

 

The night before last I got it towed home by my dad with my bosses trailer. Started doing some of the pull and went to bed. Last night got the trans out and the 6speed mated. Tonight I just need to put it all back together. I haven't had much time to work on it each night with work in the morning and life, but little each day it should be done tonight. I could swap the new lower boot from the 5speed, but I also need the bronze shifter bushing because I believe its different on the 02+ 6mt vs the 5 speed. gonna order that, but probably won't stop me from driving the car.

 

Nice dude! You'll want that bronze bushing in the 6 speed for sure. Short shifter as well if you can. The OEM bushing and standard shifter make for a bit of a vague feel and it can be easy to miss shifts when driving in anger.

Or maybe I just suck at driving, but with the OEM shifter on my '99 6 speed, I couldn't downshift into 4th gear on track for sh*t. The gear would just seemingly disappear haha. Bronze bushing helped a lot with that. Also modified a 5 speed eBay short shifter to work with the early 6 speed turret and that took care of the issue entirely. Late gen 6 speed I don't think you can do that though...

 

Well I got the late gen 6 speed installed and it currently has no bushing. I looked in there and to my suprise it was missing entirely. I think I'm going to order the miataroadsters 6 speed short shifter kit for it that has the delrin bushing. Supposed to be good just a lil pricey. Additionally I figured out some of my problems I've been having. So 2 weeks ago when I got stranded, came back next day replaced main relay, drove home, It was in fact not due to the main relay. The car only works when the laptop is plugged into the ecu. The laptop died on my way home and then I had it the next day to get it home. I have no idea why this is the case, and it didn't used to act this way but as of right now nothing comes actually on without the laptop plugged in. I get no fuel pump sound or FP at the rail, and I assume this also means I'm not getting spark but it doesn't really matter because no fuel = no drive. Plug the laptop in and everything works as expected. Additionally My dash lights are being very weird. The backlighting is flickering in random spots but not the whole cluster. Half the tach and the temperature sensor are flickering. I don't think these two things are related but they could be I guess. Drove the car to work today with the 6 speed and slow easy shifts to avoid messing anything up with the lack of bushing in the shifter. Thankfully this trans swap fixed my reverse switch issue. I can now shift through all 6 gears without the car thinking it is in reverse, and it knows it is in reverse when it actually is. Big step up from the car thinking 5th and R are both reverse. I'm wondering if the speeduino has some sort of battery that could have gone bad, or if for some reason it isn't turning on when its supposed to. All I know is the fuel pump only comes on with the laptop plugged in. Additionally I turned my boost controller on so I'm basically retuning the entire VE (joy). So far I'm not seeing much more if any more peak boost, but I'm getting there a lot faster. Kinda strange considering I keep upping my duty cycle in the top end and I don't see it building a higher overall boost. Lots of stuff to continue to work on and diagnose but I only have so much time.

 

Speedunio, correct? IIRC, you can connect to them via the 5v or whatever the USB has on it, with key off. Dunno how that helps, but with laptop disconnected, check your grounds and 12v, or try another ECU.

 

@Ryfrog I don't have experience with it, but I know I've heard of the 5v regulator on the Arduino failing before. You might look into that, as I think it's relatively common.

Not sure if you're on SpeedyEFI, but those guys are pretty quick to respond on Facebook, so you might reach out to them. If it's a common failure they can probably point you in the right direction or fix it.

 

Welp I haven't really had time to mess with my ecu(it is speedyefi/speeduino), but on the way to work this morning the car left me stranded again. Not due to the ecu, but stranded none the less. The trigger wheel on the super damper came off and is floating between the engine and crank pully. Guess it's time to tow it home again and pull the pulley off and see what's up.

 

Ugh, dude that's rough. First time I've personally heard of that happening before. Hopefully the threads to the trigger wheel bolts are ok.

 

hopefully the threads are there, if not, I have the ability to tap, helicoil, even lathe, whatever might need to be done to get it back to functional order. I don't think the crank pulley was on there right. I did it twice cause it looked off and it looked the same the next time so I just went with it. How it was my water pump pulley needed spacers, the power steering pulley never lined up so I pulled power steering, and the CPS has a spacer to line up. Additionally the timing belt is at the very front edge of the cam gears. It never went on all the way even torqueing it past spec. I don't know if this caused this or not but it could definitely be a factor. Going to figure out how to do it right this time even if it means making that hole a thou or two larger. I read somewhere that ATI has changed the size of the hole a couple times because of fitment issues reported by customers so I wonder if I got one that's on the small side of their tolerance spectrum or something. I'll have to do some investigation when I get it home and apart.

 

You pulley was definitely not fully seated then. There's a chance you caught the key and started to push it up the back of the keyway, which wedges against the pulley and stops it. They typically need 3 types of fluid during install. I use a very small amount of anti seize on the crank and inner pulley diameter to keep it from seizing. I then use a small amount of ARP torque lube on the head of the bolt so it's not seizing up on that. You can even use it on the threads during install. I also use an older bolt to press them on, not the one I plan on using long term. Then clean out the threads with a **** ton of brake clean, apply a little more torque lube on the flange, and blue loctite on the threads.

 

Okay, the other car I've been driving broke down as well so yesterday I took the day off work to fix the Miata. Got the front main swapped out, got the pully on all the way this time using all curly's advice and a plethora of youtube videos to quadruple check everything. Got it back up and running but it wouldn't idle for sh*t. I saved a backup of my table and imported the fuel table from the tune I got from curly way back in this thread. The car immediately started and idled. Now back to retuning the rest of the map. I took it for a test drive and noticed that randomly (I noticed at idle but I think it's happening all the time) the rpm signal will spike to anywhere from 5k-7.5k rpm and go right back down and it causes the idle to stumble when it does so. When I'm driving it will randomly like cut out and backfire unless I push the clutch in and let it calm down for a second and then it all goes back to normal. Not sure what kind of electrical gremlins I've got going on, but at least the car is currently drivable.

 

Holy heck dude, what a saga. How's your CPS clearance and alignment? You removed the spacer you were running, right?

 

I stuck my debit card between it and the trigger wheel and tightened it down, I removed the spacer.

 

Just for sh*ts and giggles, try using your debit card to set the gap again, but then go a touch tighter on the gap.

Kind of a shot in the dark, but that's what my CPS seemed to like. If I set the gap with a card, there was always a 50% chance I'd get an intermittent hiccup in rpm signal at idle and cruise. Closer gap fixed it for me. That could've been due to a slew of different factors, though.

 

Sounds good I'll try that before I drive home rn, that's exactly what is happening it's during idle and cruise it gets unhappy.

 

On 36-2 wheels, I had to run half or less the minimum gap. Credit card trick was way too thick. Sorry, I don't remember what wheel you're running, but a smaller gap is almost never a bad idea, until you knock out a $100 crank sensor of course.