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Old 05-14-2011, 10:02 AM   #21
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Alright - I'll have to come by this afternoon and see - and get my beer!
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:16 PM   #22
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A few pics in progress
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Sawzall miata "build" thread-picture-637.jpg   Sawzall miata "build" thread-picture-638.jpg   Sawzall miata "build" thread-picture-643.jpg  
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:18 PM   #23
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and some more
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Sawzall miata "build" thread-track-buggy-015.jpg   Sawzall miata "build" thread-track-buggy-016.jpg   Sawzall miata "build" thread-picture-646.jpg  
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:40 PM   #24
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Any access to scales? You have intrigued my interest in my project again.
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Old 05-27-2011, 09:42 PM   #25
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Glad to see that you still have A/C
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:34 PM   #26
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Quote:
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Glad to see that you still have A/C
I do live in Alabama ya know.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:36 PM   #27
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I need to mount the radiator in the back for better weight dist.

Trying to figure out the best placement. Any ideas?

Of course it needs airflow, but I'd like to keep it as low as possible too. The muffler looks like it will fit best taking the stock exhaust's path, just snugged up to the subframe.

I'm trying to decide positioning of:
-Radiator
-Battery box
-Tail lights
-Tag

Lets hear some ideas...
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:38 PM   #28
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Any access to scales? You have intrigued my interest in my project again.
Not anymore, but considering how light this thing is, if I can find some fat-boy scales I might be able to do it. The cage is probably right at 100 lbs (1.5x.095) I'm thinking this thing is maybe 1400 lbs?

What do you guys think?
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:45 PM   #29
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Looks like locost 7 fun for 1/900,000th of the price. I dig it.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:54 PM   #30
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I'm so sick of seeing flat black these days, it's just over done so I spent forever in Wal-Mart this afternoon looking at colors, but I walked out with Rust Oleum Satin Black, not really what I wanted, but it was about the only color that was available in a spray can and paint can. I walked out with some of each and some rollers. There is a new Rubbed Oil Bronze, or something like that, that looked real neat, like a very slight bronze version of dark charcoal with a very slight metallic, if that makes sense? I tried it on a sample, but when the reality of quick touchups, rolling around crap under the hood, etc. hit, black it is.
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:01 AM   #31
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Was using the .095 more expensive than .120? Around here it is a special order size at my suppliers. It would probably be worth it in this setup though as 1.5 diameter .095 wall is 1.426 pound per foot & the .120 wall is 1.769 pounds per foot.

I still want to see someone use the front and rear subframe to build a tube chasis for an easy kit car. Not to take away from what you have done.
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:08 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rharris19 View Post
Was using the .095 more expensive than .120? Around here it is a special order size at my suppliers. It would probably be worth it in this setup though as 1.5 diameter .095 wall is 1.426 pound per foot & the .120 wall is 1.769 pounds per foot.

I still want to see someone use the front and rear subframe to build a tube chasis for an easy kit car. Not to take away from what you have done.
The guy that does my cages doesn't like using .095 either, so he doesn't stock it either. I convinced him the car is so light that even 1.375x.080 would still be legal and he kind of went along with me at that point. I didn't talk price difference though. It would've had to have been A LOT more expensive though to go with .120. I told him I didn't hack this thing to nothing just to weld a heavy cage in it.

As for the tube frame deal, I'm totally for it. There was a thread on GRM about that same type of thing. This was just quick, easy, and cheap.
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:17 AM   #33
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Interesting that the .120 would have been more expensive. Around here the .120 runs abour 4.39 a foot and the .095 runs about 4.70 a foot from what I can remember. Not a huge difference, so the availability made it for me.
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:40 AM   #34
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Quote:
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This was just quick, easy, and cheap.
Completely agree and should be 100x quicker than making a new chasis.
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Old 05-28-2011, 01:20 AM   #35
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Can't wait to see it painted, shouldn't be too bad looking, for what it is. Why didn't you keep more of the rear quarter on the passenger side, like you did on the driver's side?
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Old 05-28-2011, 10:10 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rharris19 View Post
Interesting that the .120 would have been more expensive. Around here the .120 runs abour 4.39 a foot and the .095 runs about 4.70 a foot from what I can remember. Not a huge difference, so the availability made it for me.
Ahhh, my reply was kind of confusing. The .095 could have been more $, I didn't ask, and he never splits the invoice to show material seperate than labor. When I mentioned cheap, quick, easy I was saying this type of build vs a full tube frame project.

By the way, kind of picking up from the scale reply. Bruce and I pm'd a few times and I settled on using the 325 that I had on the back of another miata for the front of this one and then ordered some 150# & 200# to try on the back. I sure wish I had scales...
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Old 05-28-2011, 10:12 AM   #37
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Quote:
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Can't wait to see it painted, shouldn't be too bad looking, for what it is. Why didn't you keep more of the rear quarter on the passenger side, like you did on the driver's side?
Both sides are gone now, that was just an in-progress shot when I stopped to get some water.
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Old 05-28-2011, 10:41 AM   #38
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Is your gas filler just sticking up freely? Idk why but that would tickle me in the right way.
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Old 05-28-2011, 10:59 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rharris19 View Post
I still want to see someone use the front and rear subframe to build a tube chasis for an easy kit car.
I've wanted to do that for years. The NY laws being what they are, I'm not sure I could ever get it registered. Hence my switch from finding a donor car for a locost to finding a runner to fix and drive.
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:16 PM   #40
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So are you going to have to put different springs on it since it weighs so much less?
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