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sean's cheap thrills, 90 1.6 with subaru td04
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my friend mike and i bought this 90 miata, all stock with about 145k on it, a little over a year ago. its sole intention is cheap thrills. cheap is a relative term i guess, thats why we split everything. we run some time trials and non competitive track days, with the occasional autocross and fun commutes. i wanted to turbo it before we even bought it and now im finally getting the parts together.
here are all the mods done so far, i must warn i am a picture whore frog rails https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 205/50-15 kuhmo ecsta xs https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 cars https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 clutch master cylinder froze up one day https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 11lb fw https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 f1 clutch https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 tranny before https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 after https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 about 4k miles later, the tranny gets stuck in 5th gear unless you are going over 70, in which case it only takes the weight of a gorilla to take it out of gear. taking off from 5th gear sucks. i have another tranny i need to install soon. boss frog clearview maxx and mike, the co owner/driver https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 some water damage https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 some majestic mountains https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 number 7 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 td04-13t from an 04 wrx $50 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 it wasnt in horrible shape, but i wanted to rebuild it anyway https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 i didnt like wiertechs flange for what im doing https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 this goofy shape will make sense later https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 flip side blended to 2.5" round https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 diverter for divorced downpipe https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 i couldnt find the 1.5"/38mm wastegate v band peices i wanted so i machined my own https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378264386 wastegate hole http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...g?t=1378261746 a little flapper clearancing Attachment 185147 full weld inside with 1/2" beads on the outseide per corky bell. except with a mig and not tig. the wastegate vband is angled and offset to clear the dump tube clamp Attachment 185148 grindling the welds purdy Attachment 185149 i sanded it flat and weled my diverter piece on. Attachment 185150 Attachment 185151 sitting on top of the turbo Attachment 185152 lightly ported turbo Attachment 185153 i did the turbo inlet as well but dont have a pic at the moment before Attachment 185154 the ugly marks are from me screwing around with a fille Attachment 185155 after Attachment 185156 Attachment 185157 i made a "flaring mandrel" and heated up a T and pressed it in to widen the opening to fit the turbo flange. http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps6bbc90b3.jpg http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psee6ed2fa.jpg i have that flange welded up and milled flat but i dont know where the pics of that went. i have a log manifold in process right now, ill post pics of that soon. a megasquirt will be the next thing i want to buy and get it tuned for n/a until i get the rest of the turbo parts. na8 front brakes and power stop pads were also installed recently as we toasted the brakes at the last track day. the plan is to get to 200-220 whp. this will be a slow build. i might have a track day at the end of the month so i need to swap trannys asap. i also have a FM vmaxx track pack waiting to be installed so that stuff will probably take priority for now. butters https://sphotos-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/h..._5024651_n.jpg |
nice fab skills!
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i got all the seals replaced in the "new" tranny so i could install it today. it decides to rain all day today so that didnt happen. so instead i made a solid steel shift knob. i wanted to see if a heavier knob would improve shifts. its about twice the weight of the stock knob, and it pushes the boot down more(looks cleaner) unlike the stock knob.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378756972 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1378756972 http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...g?t=1378756840 so that only leaves me next weekend to get the tranny replaced, so i probably wont have the suspension done in time for my track day. lame |
having trouble deciding on whether i should go for the ms3, or if the ms2 is sufficient.
im not running a/c i want EBC. is it possible to have a boost switch for 2 different boost settings on the same tune? or can you you have 2 different maps and switch between them on the fly. id like to be able to flip a toggle and limit it to wastegate pressure for when the wife wants to drive it or whatever. it would be as simple as wiring switched 12v to the soleniod, im just not sure how the ecu will handle be limited to 6psi at higher rpm when its on a tune for say 12psi. or am i an ignorant dipshit? i have a netbook i can log with and dont think the sd card is necessary , but is the convenience worth it to those that have used it? do they larger tables in ms3 make a big differnece i using an AEM uego if that matters i want to use map, is the map daddy(2nd sensor) worth it? im not sure what else to ask regarding the differences. 1990 1.6 for the tl/dr on a side note ive read a bit here about having to build the shit out of the hot parts to make them survive on the track. any tips on my above work? also on the log mani that is in process? tranny went in today, should be on the track this weekend. yay |
no thoughts on the above? *crickets*
after i got the tranny in last week i find out 3rd gear grinds pretty bad at anything over 3000rpm, up or down shifting. i hate craigslist sometimes, was only $100 though. it gets worse as the tranny warms up. i dumped the cheap shit 75-90 and poured in some syncromesh, hoping it would just make this tranny last longer until i can get a rebuild. speaking of which anyone ever dealt with JO motorsports? hes running a good deal for rebuilds JO Motor Sports i drove it about 100 miles and did my track day on sunday, which was 10, 20 minute sessions. it was crunching horribly into 3rd gear at 7000rpm shifts. after about the 4rth session the grind completely went away. im curious if the tranny just got hotter than normal, causing a greater change in clearances or some shit, or if the syncromesh had anything to do with it. ive never been a believer in "magic fluids" fixing problems, but what do i know. i havnt driven it since. im going to tomorrow, and ill see if that grind comes back. anyway heres some video of an unexciting n/a na lap 5 with racerender and rearview |
MS2 is sufficient. MS3 is better.
Your fab skills are awesome. And so is Butters. |
Sweet build, looks awesome. Lots of attention to detail here. I'm rocking a ms1, so I'm no help on the ms2/3 debate. All I know at this point, is that if I were personally going to upgrade from a ms1, it would absolutely without a doubt be to a ms3e.
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Wicked fab work, man. If you're spending the coin for a new MS, might as well get the 3.
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thanks for the compliments guys. i suppose for only another $100 i might as well just do the 3.
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tranny only grinds now when you shift like a dick. treat it right and it stays quiet. good enough for now i guess.
after researching the ms3 some more, i realized for all the outputs it has ready to go that i dont have to build, its worth the $100. i got sick of not being able to hear the car at all on the track or in general. so i got on summit and bought the cheapest 2" muffler available, which is a walker "sound fx". it happened to be the perfect size as well. this is just to hold me over until turbo, i feel like such a ricer. it sounds surprisingly decent and not loud. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1381016303 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1381016303 |
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started installing vmaxxs and fm sways today
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1381099029 if anyone runs this setup and has the exposed thread under the collar spec for the recommended ride height, that would be cool. i failed at google today it seems |
That all varies greatly depending on desired ride height, and the weight of the car+driver. It's really just guess and check. Measure from the pinch welds in the sills, find 949's recommended specs, and start raising and lowering the car. I believe you're supposed to do it with the sways disconnected too.
Go up and down with the lugs on to whatever your drill's highest impact setting is, but in order to fine tune it, you need to torque the lugs and go for a drive to settle the suspension between adjustments to reach your desired ride height. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1060096)
That all varies greatly depending on desired ride height, and the weight of the car+driver. It's really just guess and check. Measure from the pinch welds in the sills, find 949's recommended specs, and start raising and lowering the car. I believe you're supposed to do it with the sways disconnected too.
Go up and down with the lugs on to whatever your drill's highest impact setting is, but in order to fine tune it, you need to torque the lugs and go for a drive to settle the suspension between adjustments to reach your desired ride height. |
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1060121)
i was afraid id have to do it that way. i was just wondering if anyone with a stock na knew how much thread was exposed for the FM recommended ride height of 12-12.5", from fender lip to center of hub iirc. i hear these springs settle a half inch or so after a few hundred miles. im at 13.5" front right now, but im inclined on my drive way. so im going to drive it a bit before i screw with it and i need to check it on level ground.
I don't remember on the front (how many threads below collars) but I think I'm at about 12.5" front, 13" rear... Sorry, I'm not much help, but I do remember on the rear I had to go all they way down until it would be close to touching the DS |
Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 1060305)
I have the regular vmaxx on a basically stock '97 and I have the rears at basically as low as it will go before the collars/perches intefere with drive shafts. Unfortunately, it wasn't really enough to get the 12.5" ride height.
I don't remember on the front (how many threads below collars) but I think I'm at about 12.5" front, 13" rear... Sorry, I'm not much help, but I do remember on the rear I had to go all they way down until it would be close to touching the DS |
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i pulled the a/c out. some one rigged this setup together and it has never worked that well in arizona summer. and because race car.
a stick welded custom bracket and what i was told by a miata friend is a gm compressor, along with a dyer from a ? with sheet metal screws/hose clamps into L brackets and a universal condenser with more sheet metal brackets . the hoses were nicely made and probably cost a lot of money for a hack shit job. the compressor flare fitting is stripped too so i had to cut a line off. i hate hacked work. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1381804836 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1381804836 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1381804836 rear v-maxxs going on next. i need to get some steel to make some diy frog arms as those will follow the vmaxxs https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1381804836 |
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got a "new in box" 5 point off craigslist yesterday for $20!. i had originally called the guy for a buddy club spec seat he wanted $50 for, but my ass is too big. anyway, its 8 years old so certifications ran out in 2010. but since im not actually racing, i dont need no stinkin certs. in either case for $20 i couldnt pass it up, it waas never mounted. im told deist will re-certify it for $60.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1382041047 today... i make a gas pedal extension. and i guess ill be making a harness bar soon. and this is wesly https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1382041047 |
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so i got the suspension installed and finally got to drive it and i have to say its awesome. the car is so much more poised and solid now. no more bump steer, no more smacking bump stops on just about everything. i can make lane changes on the freeway and run over the reflectors without shitting my pants. the car just stays so flat now when cornering and braking. for archive- i got 13" front and rear by setting the rears to 2.5" and the front to about 1 3/4" of exposed threads beneath the collars. there is still a little over a 1/4" of adjustment in the rears. ill check them again/readjust in a week or so after i get some more miles on it. ill have a better report when i track it again.
and in other news i was running all of it in my subaru and it decided it would try to blow the end tanks off the intercooler. common subi issue with the lame crimped plastic intercoolers when running moar boost. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1382305026 |
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i got my final ride heights dialed in today. i never had to touch the rears; with 2.5" of exposed thread they have settled to 12 7/8". i had to back the fronts off a bit to get them to around 12.5". so with that done i decided i would make a camber gauge, or more accurately, a bracket to mount a magnetic angle finder that will indicate camber. all 4 corners are way off.
i got fl- 1.6 fr- 0 rl- 2.4 rr- 1.4 the car has been pulling, i forgot which direction. i didnt have time to set up strings today, but maybe this weekend, and ill attempt my first driveway alignment. also the right rear wheel bearing started squeaking. so i just decided to replace both sides and got 2 new timken bearings. the recent rear hub failures convinced me to get some new rear hubs as well, still waiting on those. i machined 2 peices of hex stock to the exact same height with a 60 degree taper on the end, threaded m6x1 in one end m12x1.5 in the other. piece of flat plate, holes 100 mm apart, blah blah blah https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383268019 http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...g?t=1383266793 painted the cold side my fav color, pulled the alignment pins and reclocked so the oil drain is pointing straight down. Attachment 185054 Attachment 185055 got another track day coming up on the 10th, its going to be another mad rush to get a bunch of shit done |
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i got both rear hubs and bearings replaced, that was a bitch. my slide hammer wouldnt do shit to the hub. so i ended up just taking the upright off and cutting the dust shield and pounding it out on the vise. bearings came out on the press easy enough. the drivers side looked good, but was dry, all the grease had pushed out. the passenger side looked ok, but was a little grindy in my hand and was even dryer. a few more noises cleared up other than recently developed squeak, which i thought was interesting.
i laid a sting out today and set toe. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383521207 went to 0 toe in front, turn in is sooo much better. the rear was at about 3/32" total so i left it alone. i love southwest cars. bolts came loose nice and easy and adjusted with little effort. http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...g?t=1383521128 i discovered my camber gauge setup introduced an error, so i just used the machined inside lip on the daisies. the front pass side maxed out to 1.4 degrees. normal? i could easily get the drivers side to 2 degrees, but ended up having to back it off to mach the pass. side. the rear driver side couldnt be adjusted lower than 1.4 degrees, but the top upright bushing is worn on that side, the pass. side is tight. someone is getting a knob Attachment 185053 |
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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1069841)
someone is getting a knob
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*Pics of personal lathe* Jelly.
Keep up the good work...and for those of us who have to work on our cars in parking lots, keep making the most of your workshop. |
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Originally Posted by mx5autoxer
(Post 1070221)
*Pics of personal lathe* Jelly.
Keep up the good work...and for those of us who have to work on our cars in parking lots, keep making the most of your workshop. my machine shop/garage is a fuking disaster right now. i have way to many projects. lathe with mill in the backround Attachment 185050 and my baby mill with a 1.5hp motor conversion Attachment 185051 they are great little machines, especially for the money, but nothing like have full size equipment. i hope you enjoy playing with your knob ray! |
How heavy and expensive are said knobs? :eek5:
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Originally Posted by furrycurry33
(Post 1070315)
How heavy and expensive are said knobs? :eek5:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383667687 And they are $45 expenisive shipped in flat rate box. They are mild steel so they rust unless painted. I can do aluminum too, or even brass. No SS, to much of a pain to work with. |
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made this thing today. i can heel-toe now!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383966047 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383966047 and going to the track sunday, vids will follow |
more like toe-toe?
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Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1071845)
more like toe-toe?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1384137622 |
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track day was fugin awwwsome. the vmaxx suspension worked pretty dam good, but was not as stiff on the track as i expected or would have liked. i also feel like they could use a bit more rebound dampening, although i still have 2 clicks of adjustment left. i initially had the rear sway set to the middle position and the front set to the softer position, the car was over steering. i also got the common inside rear wheel lift on corner exit. i wanted to set the rear bar to full soft but the sway links wernt playing along, so i set the front to full stiff instead, which made a huge difference although it still over steers. ill screw with the rear links before the next track day. maybe even go back to the stock rear bar?
i picked up about 4 seconds on a 1:15 track just from the vmaxx setup from stock. the corners feel so nice now, much more confidence and i can hit the rumble strips without shitting myself. the bigest improvement though was braking. the car dove so bad before it would dance all over the place, i could never approach lockup. with the vmaxx i could brake as hard as i want and the cars stays in a straight line. i had to learn braking control for the first time. i got a type 1 torsen from a local auto crosser out of his 94 yesterday! i got it with the axles, hubs, rotors and uprights, i just need the driveshaft. which leads me to a question. will the auto shafts work? does this "chart" from 949 regarding their driveshaft apply to stock driveshafts? Fits: 90-05 Miata (including MSM) with 7" differential from 1.8. 5 and 6 spd manual 94-97 Miata w/ Auto trans im finding 94-97 auto driveshafts a little cheaper for whatever reason heres my 3rd session, 2nd and 4th video got corrupted. i was being horribly inconsistent all day. i was trying to learn to many new things at once. 8:40 the rear tires passed the front because i was trying to keep up with a good driver in an frs on nittos. sorry about the aggrivating women running her mouth about split times. i always forget to turn that off. edit: i like how the screenshot for the video is right after i spun out, figures lol. and m3 drivers cant drive for shit. and i have to show off rays knob, because it looks so good in his car https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1384312257 |
racerender n shit
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Looking good on the track, thanks for sharing. How much boost were you running? Any trouble with your hotside parts?
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Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1073260)
Looking good on the track, thanks for sharing.
Originally Posted by Fireindc
(Post 1073260)
How much boost were you running? Any trouble with your hotside parts?
im still n/a, turbo build is a work in progress. i only have the DP vband flange thingy done, turbo rebuilt and im working on the log. had money for ms and a few other things but just spent it on the torsen that popped up instead. stock rear end is making a lot of noise and the pinion nut keeps loosening itself, signs of imminent demise. |
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i ended up getting a lowish miles DS from a 96, and im into the whole torsen swap for $725. they usually get $1000 for the full swap in my area, so i feel i got a deal
it came with the hubs and upright attached, so i had to mount them on my car just to break the hub nuts loose. i dont have the brackets for rear 1.8 brakes, and the bushings were toast or else i would have just used them. which still would have been a shame because i have 300 miles on new bearings and hubs. Attachment 185048 i coulnt use the parking brake because i couldnt install the 1.6 caliper and bracket on the 1.8 rotor and the 1.8 rotor is held on by the nut so i couldnt just swap the hats. pita and it bent my pickle fork :( Attachment 185049 |
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1076418)
i coulnt use the parking brake because i couldnt install the 1.6 caliper and bracket on the 1.8 rotor and the 1.8 rotor is held on by the nut so i couldnt just swap the hats. pita and it bent my pickle fork
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1076488)
Excuse me? That rotor is only still on there because its rust welded on. The axle nut doesnt hold the rotor on. :vash: And at least for me the P brake wouldn't hold for undoing the nut. I had to have that wheel on the ground and stick the socket through the center hole on the wheel and have someone stand on the brakes while I stood on the cheater bar that was on the breaker bar and jump.
the pbrake worked to get my originals apart (jumping on a 3 foot breaker bar) and this set torqued to spec. i must have better cold bite lmao anyway, it cleaned up nicely and got it all installed this afternoon. its funny how much larger it is that the na6 diff. the oil came out pretty clean and the magnet didnt have anything of concern on it. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1385344569 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1385344569 the car is soo queit now, it really puts it in perspective how much racket either the DS or diff or both were making. and the torsen is pretty cool too. after the suspension, chassis bracing, wheel bearing, and now drive line, the car is just about silent. when i first got it, it sounded like it was falling apart. going from 4.3 to 4.1 helped freeway cruising. track day in a week to test, yay! theres a few spots on the various tracks at firebird where 2nd isnt quit long enough and trying to grab third is a waste of time. im hoping the ratio change will fill those spots in a little. |
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the torsen worked well at the last track day, noticeable improvement on corner exit out of slower corners. it does appear to have a slight leak though. i got a tomtom mk2 bluetooth gps to use with trackmaster and it sucks ass, dont buy one. it was so inaccurate, it had trouble triggering off split 1, so i got little video and no usable telemetry. i guess ill buy the 818xt everyone raves about for 4xs the money.
anyway heres a lap. this track was kicking my ass and i got black flagged for repeatedly spinning out on the same turn. i have never run that configuration and i didnt really like it. got some instruction and improved although i could never set a decent time. we finally got my reroute spacer done. a friend of mine was boredat work one day one day, so i sent him this https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...-spacer-66587/ and just had to weld it since he doesnt have a tig. i still suck at tig so a friend of a friend played with it. all in all about 8 people involved in the making of this. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1386733500 |
nothing new on the build, but had a track run on saturday. the car performed flawlessly all day. these kumhos really get grippier as they wear, or it could just be they "took" to the new alignment and suspension, all i know is the car has never felt better. once i got in the groove i just kept shedding seconds. best lap was 1:14.995.
if tax time treats me the way i think it should, an MS3 and a decent seat are very soon. |
so i ordered an ms3 and im in the process of building it. ive stuffed many hundreds of boards, so piece of cake.
ordered an ultrashield spec miata seat, still waiting. i also got some cleaned and flowed rx8 injectors. they were yellow bodies, but i got them from a shop that rebuilds (probably pieces them together) so they are grey now. but the flow sheet says 440cc @ 43.5psi. they were ordered under part number 195500-4450. so questions: do i need to run these at or above 60psi for proper atomization, or can i run them at stock miata fuel pressue? which is as i understand around 45psi? do i need to run an IAC? mine is eratic, does what it wants and i dont feel like fixing it. can the megasquirt be tuned to handle cold starts without one? im not running A/C, and i live in arizona where a cold start at worst means 50 degrees. mike got some instruction on the east track(above post) and transferred some knowledge to me and i took 2 seconds off my previous best. i got down into the low 1:13s but ran out of memory and didnt get any of those recorded. video im going to try and have a log mani done in the next few weeks |
I run without any sort of IAC. It's ok, but definitely needs to be held at 2000rpms for a few seconds when stone cold. I might suggest keeping the coolant IAC only for a little help.
And depending on the ambient temperature, your idle will vary. On 80+ days, I generally have to turn it down from 1200. But then again, we usually have colder days, and it idles happily at 800 most of the time. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1111700)
I run without any sort of IAC. It's ok, but definitely needs to be held at 2000rpms for a few seconds when stone cold. I might suggest keeping the coolant IAC only for a little help.
And depending on the ambient temperature, your idle will vary. On 80+ days, I generally have to turn it down from 1200. But then again, we usually have colder days, and it idles happily at 800 most of the time. |
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i started to mock up the manifold and turbo today.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396494704 in just tacked the outlet flange on for testing. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396494704 i had to reclock the turbo, so now i need to weld a bolt boss on to relocate the wastegate actuator. by sliding the actuator down to the next hole, the compressor outlet ends up at a nice angle. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396494704 my downpipe flange is going to have to change due to clearance with the firewall lip. a short radius elbow($$$) may work, or welding the 90 directing to the flange and moving the v-band downstream. i might just pie cut some pipe into a tight radius, but i dont like that idea. i dunno https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396494704 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1396494704 |
Props for the fab. I wish I had those machines! Nice shift knobs too.
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Originally Posted by Yezzir
(Post 1118196)
Props for the fab. I wish I had those machines! Nice shift knobs too.
i cut he flange off to see if i could reweld it, but its already fuked https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397695103 and my spec miata seat finally came in. i love it https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1397695103 |
Cool project. Too bad about the mess up, but you'll power through.
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I like it.
How did you pick your turbo location? Any reason not to go low mount for an easier downpipe? |
Or you have no AC in the way, so you can just move the turbo forward to make your DP routing easier.
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Originally Posted by ahawks9er
(Post 1124745)
Cool project. Too bad about the mess up, but you'll power through.
Originally Posted by adamiata
(Post 1124833)
I like it.
How did you pick your turbo location? Any reason not to go low mount for an easier downpipe? i had done a lot of research on here before deciding what to do, i got ideas from sturovos thread and the "diy mani" thread. so i originally decided to go with a "mid" mount log similar to sturovos "flowish log" (sturovo i hope you dont mind). here is sturvos 1.6 flowish log and details https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1368463746 https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...4/#post1011246 after reading maximum boost and corkys article on down pipes, i am fixated on making it a divorced setup with the best transitions i am capable of. which at this point has probably become far more work than its worth. this is when i made my DP flange that im so proud of. with the flowish log having the outlet between cylinders 2 and 3, it left very little room for the DP. i figured if i moved the outlet up to cylinder 2, that would give me the room, while having the dual benefit of easier construction; it was going to be a true log using tees and not a flowish. so i got the parts and started cutting and fitting... the first time. if you read sturovos post i linked above, youll see with a "mid"/"side" mount, using a TDO4-13T, the manifold cant exceed ~95mm in height, or the turbo hits the frame rail. i tend to get carried away while i fabricate, and only after i got all the pieces dry fitted with a perfect 95mm height did i realize this leaves no room for the nut between cylinders 2 and 3, let a lone the stud or a wrench, because i am joining 2 tees at that location and not 2 inverted and blended 90s. the area around that stud hole looked like the area between 1 and 2 or 3 and 4 on sturovos mani above. there goes 2 90s and 2 tees. i keep things like that as reminders, so ill have to get a pic of them for the lolz. so back to the internets, and i noticed, with the exception of sturovo, that people using the 13t specifically all high mounted and inline with #2. i actually wanted to do a low mount so i could have as straight a dp as possible. i figured it would fit, if the high mount fit. thats when i ripped the exhaust apart and test fit the turbo on the car itself. the turbo had always been in pieces up until then and i had never actually done a mockup. i just couldnt see a way to fit it low. the waste gate actuator would hit the frame, and or the turbo outlet was pointing right at the block. i couldnt reclock the actuator because it would end up on the compressor outlet where it wouldnt fit nor could i weld a boss there. external is out of the question. it also seemed to hit other things that i dont recall, i think these issues are specific to the 13T. so the high mount worked with the caveat that i still need to relcock the compressor side and therefore the actuator. and i have found a solution the the DP.
Originally Posted by thenuge26
(Post 1124866)
Or you have no AC in the way, so you can just move the turbo forward to make your DP routing easier.
another thought that had occurred to me, but its already in front of #2 and i was unsure if there would be any detrimental effects to moving it even further forward. and regarding the DP: for no reason in particular i was bent on using butt weld fittings for the first few bends. theres no reason 16ga exhaust bends wont work that i can think of, and you can get some very tight radius 2.5" pre bends much cheaper than butt welds. TL;DR the 13T is weird and only fits(easily) high mount, or like sturovos and exhaust pre bends kick ass. |
Thanks for the detailed answer. That saved me a whole lot of work down the road.
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7 Attachment(s)
after 2 attempts i successfully installed the seat. i machined some blocks to adapt the sliders to the seat. on the first attempt, i set the back angle to 20 degrees, and put the seat right in the middle of the sliders. turns out the sliders are about 1.5" to the drivers side, and i needed more angle. with the seat mounted like that you were noticeably to close to the door and the shifter felt far away.
attempt 1 Attachment 184892 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399861113 i was only able to get about 2 more degrees out of it by reducing the height of the rear blocks. id like more lean back, but i dont want to raise the front, so ill see how this feels once i get it on the track. had to switch to steel on the rear because of reduced thread engagement, and was able to offset them and use the same mounting holes in the seat. i had to redrill the fronts, but was able to reuse the blocks and took 2 degrees off the top to match. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399861113 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399861113 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399861113 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399861113 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399861113 http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/d...psekornzce.jpg |
why not weld those aluminum blocks to the seat?
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Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1130689)
why not weld those aluminum blocks to the seat?
I just used flat stock to adapt between the flat part of the seat and the holes on the sliders. It was easier, I made it with a hand drill and a hack saw with stuff from home depot. I'm going to make a better version that includes welding when I switch to a better kirkey, and bolt the current kirkey directly to the floor on the passenger's side. |
Are you going to make a fancy sliding back brace also or are you just forgoing the back brace?
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Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1130689)
why not weld those aluminum blocks to the seat?
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1130692)
Seat is 5052 T5 isnt it? I'm not sure you want to screw up the heat treating right where the seat mounts to the chassis.
I just used flat stock to adapt between the flat part of the seat and the holes on the sliders. It was easier, I made it with a hand drill and a hack saw with stuff from home depot. I'm going to make a better version that includes welding when I switch to a better kirkey, and bolt the current kirkey directly to the floor on the passenger's side. Ultrashield Catalog - Road Race Seats - Standard Road Race Seats - Spec Miata Seat i thought about a long piece of 1/4" strap to mount just like you explained. but i have a mill for a reason and i like to uneccesarily complicate things. i was also worried about the strength with it mouned like that.
Originally Posted by thenuge26
(Post 1130704)
Are you going to make a fancy sliding back brace also or are you just forgoing the back brace?
safety items/ergonimics on a dual driver car can be somewhat of a bitch and a comprimise at times. |
9 Attachment(s)
i decided to remove the carpet, at least on the drivers side for now.
after scraping all the spooge and insulation off and some wire brush action https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1400123241 and after degreasing https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1400123241 scuffed it with 120, and masked off the footwell https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1400123241 textured trunk paint https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1400123241 made a sub belt bracket that uses the existing hardware from the frog frame rails to mount it. i broke a unibit making it https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1400123241 i machined a pieced of round stock down to 5/8 and drilled a hole to add lightness, some 1/8" plate- https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1400123241 blue because it was first can of paint i saw laying around in the garage https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1400123241 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1400123241 tied off to the diagonal for now, harnes br will be next https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1400123241 |
Where'd you get that unit bit? I've been really impressed with the one I snagged off of amazon prime on a recommendation from a friend.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1131282)
Where'd you get that unit bit? I've been really impressed with the one I snagged off of amazon prime on a recommendation from a friend.
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Glad to see I'm not the only one round here with a lathe in the basement!
8x14 here. Man those machines come in handy! I've made so much random stuff the machine has probably paid for itself twice by now. I'm really liking the progression of the build. Keep it up! |
Originally Posted by Togeneral99
(Post 1131738)
Glad to see I'm not the only one round here with a lathe in the basement!
8x14 here. Man those machines come in handy! I've made so much random stuff the machine has probably paid for itself twice by now. I'm really liking the progression of the build. Keep it up! thanks for the props! |
i have some mega squirt questions. ms3 v3.0
1. im running 440cc rx8 injectors in batch mode, should i keep the flyback pwm damping circuit, or can i use q9 and 12 for my fan circuit, etc? 2. since i wont be running iac, i dont need the s12 to js9 jumper right? 3. is there any reason i cant connect fuel pump output, pin 37 to miata harness pin 2p, and then short the wires together at the afm harness? 4. do you guys rip out the canister and purge valve? im going to try to register it a classic so it is emissions exempt next time it is due. 5. i forgot what 5 was |
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