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For the loosening studs. I had a similar issue when I switched to a stainless internal waste gate assembly for my old t3 setup. I had to get similar stainless studs to match the thermal expansion rate of the waste gate assembly. Perhaps you already tried matching the expansion rate for the studs and flange, but figured I would mention it because it's important.
Of course I imagine that you have a flex section of some sort.
I do have a flex section in the down pipe. I hadn't thought about the expansion rate of the studs. Getting new hardware in there wouldn't be a bad idea either honestly as the stuff I'm using is cobbled together from a few different setups I've had over the years.
Ripped the turbo off this morning to figure out the stud situation. The threads didn't look terrible at a glance, so I think I'm going to be able to run a wire pipe cleaner in there on a drill, get the mating surfaces cleaned up on everything and throw the studs back in there with some of that threadlocker.
Getting the oil drain line off is a major PITA. I swear it melts to the barb fitting every time. Otherwise it's a fairly straightforward job.
I added Lamba and MAP readings to the gauge and redid how it sends the requests for data. Now the displayed sensor updates around 50 HZ and the background sensors update at 10 HZ (IE 20 MS and 100 MS). Not perfect, but the display is much smoother now for quicker moving things like RPM. There's something causing Lambda to not run the LEDs right, pretty sure it's converting everything from ints to doubles, but the value displays properly at least.
It was around 27 C (80 F) this weekend so I tested out the AC when my buddy and I were putting around town. On the upside, the car didn't seem to have any trouble maintaining temps around town. On the downside, it did struggle to maintain voltage. The battery light blinked on and off a few times and then proceeded to stay on until I turned off AC. I looked in the tune and the G4x triggers that if the voltage is lower than 13 V. I've never replaced the alternator in the car, so maybe it's just a bit weak, but more realistically the fan load could be a problem at idle. I can still play with the duty cycle, but I'll probably need to upgrade the alternator at some point. IIRC the stock fans draw ~10-13 amps combined and these new ones at full tilt would be closer to 40 amps combined, so roughly 3-4x. 40 Amps on what I assume is a stock 70 amp alternator doesn't leave a ton of headroom.
There's something causing Lambda to not run the LEDs right, pretty sure it's converting everything from ints to doubles, but the value displays properly at least.
Int to double should just pad the left with 0's if both are unsigned, signed should put sign bit then pad.
you sure it's not from float to int/double? i've seen those casts have a lot more problems usually.
Int to double should just pad the left with 0's if both are unsigned, signed should put sign bit then pad.
you sure it's not from float to int/double? i've seen those casts have a lot more problems usually.
That could be it. TBF I had Copilot help me with a few sections of the code, one of which was ramping the LED color from green to red. I did see one of the functions it used was using floats but I figured double to float would be fine. I'll have to revisit that.
Originally I set the sensors up to use int's but when Lambda came into play I swapped that over to double's, which was most of the changes I made.
I do have some stainless studs laying around. IIRC a couple of them were too long to fit the elbow despite having come with the Kraken kit. Could be user error.
I've got some Hot Lock to try out. Say's it's good to 2000F, so we'll see.
That could be it. TBF I had Copilot help me with a few sections of the code, one of which was ramping the LED color from green to red. I did see one of the functions it used was using floats but I figured double to float would be fine. I'll have to revisit that.
Originally I set the sensors up to use int's but when Lambda came into play I swapped that over to double's, which was most of the changes I made.
I do have some stainless studs laying around. IIRC a couple of them were too long to fit the elbow despite having come with the Kraken kit. Could be user error.
I've got some Hot Lock to try out. Say's it's good to 2000F, so we'll see.
just installed a psr2860 and kraken elbow on a friends car with him, the studs he got were also too long, ended up cutting 2 down a bit and threading the nut down as the elbow went down the stud.
I went and cleaned up some threads at lunch. I think I skipped those studs because it didn't seem like the nuts would tighten down properly due to the unthreaded section being too long. I did consider cutting some down, but the 2 locations that need to be shortened are still attached pretty well, so I think I'm going to leave them. They're on the bottom of the 5 bolts, so I think they get less forces pulling on them from the exhaust.
Of course when I looked at the bottle of Hot-Lock, I realized it was cloudy with sediment, almost like coconut milk. I reached out to Vibra-tite and they said it looked wrong, so they're sending me another bottle for free. I purchased it through Amazon, but they didn't seem to care. Unfortunately that means I'm not getting the car back together today. I might port the compressor housing, but I'm on the fence if I want to pull that all apart or just leave it as is. I got some cheap nordlocks on the way as well, so we'll see how those go.
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