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-   -   Shibby’s 1990 – VVT FM2 – Learn as it breaks (https://www.miataturbo.net/build-threads-57/shibby%92s-1990-%96-vvt-fm2-%96-learn-breaks-88725/)

Shibby 04-23-2016 09:44 PM

Shibby’s 1990 – VVT FM2 – Learn as it breaks
 
202 Attachment(s)
I'm James and this is my second Miata. I previously had a 2001 that I autocrossed a bit, but it was mostly kept stock and didn't really warrant a build thread. This one has been needing a build thread for two years, but I've been too lazy to do anything about it. So, here we go with two years of picture overload.

These first series of pictures are how I initially got the car from the previous owner. He sourced the VVT engine (Carillo a-beams, oem 9:1 pistons), ACT Xtreme clutch/Al flywheel, FM2 Intercooled turbo setup on Link ECU, NB exhaust, transmission, driveshaft, and differential from its previous owner who ended up with an LS2 swap. He swapped to MS3X at some point while leaving the Link fuel setup installed with the extra rail for sequential fueling. The car was dyno tuned at 191whp. Also PO installed a rollbar, Tein Flex, FM Rails/Butterfly brace, stainless steel brake lines, DDMworks radio/gauge pod, Racing Beat front swaybar, AR24 15x7 wheels, RE11A tires. Probably some other things that I'm forgetting, but to make a long story short, it was a good base to start with. I paid $4,250 for the car.

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New rollbar padding and cover from Bethania. I couldn't deal with the residue from the tape, but I also couldn't get it off. The cover is nice and fits really well. Also, ditched the softtop.
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A few weeks after getting it, the engine started revving up to redline on its own. I'm ashamed of how long it took me to figure out that the cruise control unit must have been installed incorrectly by the previous owner and introduced a vacuum leak when I tried to use cruise. I'm still a little baffled by how it was intermittent and how he never discovered the issue. I guess he didn't try to use cruise control post-swap.
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I took the opportunity during the downtime to get the new FM intercooler piping. If you noticed from some of the initial pictures, the alternator belt was rubbing into the old hard pipes. The hard pipes were also a few mm's too tall and were impacting the hood... which made the hood shake when the car was running.
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And for my next expensive lesson... understanding boost source. I ended up connecting the recirc valve to the wastegate (lol @ me) and ran the car to about 25psi passing a semi truck on the highway. That was a fun 10 seconds.
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This is becoming commonplace.
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Those Carrillo rods held up extremely well... this was the only issue.
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I found a replacement engine on ebay and sold the rods and some other engine parts to cover the cost of the engine. The head was maintained and the block was replaced.
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Back on the road again. 15x7 949 wheels.
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Redid door cards.
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I ended up meeting the guy with the LS2 Miata at this show. He's been a great resource of information to me when I get stuck. I ended up buying a set of 15x8 Nickel wheels and 1.8l brakes from him.
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Something is missing...
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Revlimiter to the rescue. I had these custom made. He ended up making 8 of them (he claims one of them is bad, but it looks good to me), so I have 4 replacements. I'll post them for sale at some point.
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I contacted Matos to make me some door pulls. We went through a few iterations before I settled on a type that doesn't lock at all. I've since shortened these to about a visible inch and a half. Also, Lotus seats... but no mounts.
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Maintenance day in Virginia. Met a few guys, got some work done, helped some others. I did trans/diff/brake/clutch fluid changes on mine.
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Foamectomy looked terrible... I couldn't wait to get rid of these.
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Now we're talkin. Flipside mounts came in one at a time and took about 6 weeks from initial order.
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Starting to prep for the winter work. My plan for the winter is to ditch the NB exhaust that the PO installed. It's close to fitting, but was banging into the butterfly brace and differential. Also, if you noticed, there was no muffler and it was left exit. I'd like the opposite of both of those. Also, i'm planning to switch the Link fueling system to single primaries, change the rear main seal, and clean up anything else.
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Found a hardtop.. drove to Kentucky for it. Damn near mint and color matched.
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Starting to come together.
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New radiator. I was debating on reroute, but this was keeping temps down for my driving style.
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Built a mount. 2x4 + 2 lag bolts = win. Cheap, simple, and out of the way.
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Met some awesome DMV Miata guys. The black one (downmented) is the only one that's not boosted, but the goal there is 400hp. Blue car is psyberoptix. I'm not sure if the owner of the red one is on MT.
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Another Revlimiter custom. These are JNC style, with Eunos text, and Prototipo gauge sweeps + LEDs. I'll later switch these back to amber for a more period correct look.
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Ruckus! I had one of these, but sold it when I bought the Miata. I missed it a lot and my friend wanted to get one, so we decided to buy them together. He'll be the one helping me with the winter build... which starts...
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Now.
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Found some 97 upper door pieces. You can see the shortened pulls too.
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At this point, I'm starting to realize that having my friend help might make this job run much longer than I had planned.
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Shibby 04-23-2016 09:45 PM

49 Attachment(s)
Another expensive lesson. Don't take a ball-bearing turbo apart too far... or you'll be enjoying a new one.
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Bought a midpipe and exhaust from the MT classifieds. Aluminum polished it.
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Cleaned up the manifold and painting new turbo :| parts
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Black 6an fuel lines, with mtuned rail that was already on the car.
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Out of the oven. I doubt these will hold up, but I know that doing nothing will make them rusty. *shrug*
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Exhaust installed
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99% of things that we took out of the car were cleaned or used a bench grinder with a wire wheel on.
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This was the start of a mini-ordeal. I found some hardlines for sale on MT, but they weren't lining up all that well.
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Looks good, but there's a problem lurking.
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Downpipe is contacting the block. A couple of phone calls and emailed pictures to FM later, it's determined that I have an old Begi style manifold and that's what's causing the misalignment with the block and the hardlines. I'm kinda forced to get the new manifold. FM worked with me a bit on the price. I can't say enough good things about that company.
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Enter...
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Clearance
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Lines line up!
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Now we're cooking. I wasn't planning on doing the timing belt/water pump, but during the manifold downtime, I took the chance.
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Cleaned and painted oil pump.
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Ruckus mods! Lowered seat, handlebars, relocated blinkers, speedo in battery box, underseat storage.
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Timing belt. Starting to play around with my options for oil feed routing.
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Got the valve cover back from powdercoating. I wanted the color to match the seat, but they had the cover for about 3 months and were still in a holding pattern for the color. We got as close as we could. They also powdered the VVT oil line... I'll sort that out.
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Notice anything that we didn't cut out? We didn't either.
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Sonofabitch!
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In case you still didn't see it, we missed the dash in 16-valve. It's fixed here and starting to look ready for install.
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Oil feed routing
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Pclips are awesome
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Random interior shot.
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And it's in.
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The amber lighting is hard to photograph, but it looks much more pleasing, imo. Oh yeah, the HVAC gauges are redone in JNC style, as well.
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Building fuel lines. In retrospect, I should have started the an lines from the tank. Maybe in a future build.
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It's alive.
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First drive with my son. He's 5. :)
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Here's my whiteboard punchlist from the winter. Last picture is my current list.
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Got a good deal on 93LE seat belts. I have to get rid of the ripstops with my new steering wheel though. I bought a thread cutter tool, but it was no match for these threads. What worked for me was using the razor blade to cut the knots on one end and using the clippers to pull the opposite stitches out. Took me about 1.5-2 hours to do both. I had visions of offering this job up as a service to others, but f all that.
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Revlimiter comes through again.
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This is about last week. To make a short story short, my jack slipped off of the front subframe. I was trying to move too quickly and didn't have it seated well. The car crashed down and the radiator fan took all the damage. So, a new from Amazon and we're back in business. During this moment of idiocy, I managed to strip the drain plug out of the radiator. No problem right? I'll call Mishimoto and they'll get me a replacement. It comes in the mail a week and a day later... and it's the wrong size. And they have absolutely no idea what to do about it. The needed bolt is a M10x1.25, but it's got a stepped lip and an o-ring.. it's just not something easy to find. They're supposed to get back to me on Monday with a solution. I may end up JB Welding it closed.
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New license plate.
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Shibby 04-23-2016 09:47 PM

4 Attachment(s)
New tyres
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New steering wheel, door pulls, and another revlimiter touch.
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turbofan 04-24-2016 03:18 AM

Lots of really nice work, many kitties awarded.

jimmyneutron 04-24-2016 05:39 AM

Nice build and love the small detailing you have done. Looks like it will be a nice,reliable, smart looking car nice work :)

Shibby 04-24-2016 11:29 AM

16 Attachment(s)
Thanks guys! I'm all about them cats. :likecat:

Finished up my catch can this morning. DIY style with proper hoses and fittings. Since I'll eventually be relocating my washer bottle to the firewall area, I'm able to use the fuse panel location for mounting. We had to build an adapter mount to locate the can higher for draining purposes.

Here's the link to the can I used. Craftsman - 16009 - Heavy Duty Air Line Filter | Sears Outlet There's also various parts needed that Summit can provide. I can provide a write-up with cost needed if anyone is interested. I bought more fittings than I needed and spent too much on overestimating hose length. I still need to add the copper scrubbers.

Here's building the simple bracket.
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Painted the bracket, cleaned up the mounting bolts, used acorn style for the exposed area. Ran 6an hoses with 90* connectors on the can to keep the lines direct.

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If anyone has a better idea of mounting the lines here, I'm all ears. I used a 90* elbow that I found at AutoZone off of the valve cover, but couldn't figure out a good option for the intake manifold. We ground down the nipple and put the hose on as far as I could.
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leboeuf 04-24-2016 11:52 AM

Looking great! I looked all over for that pcv elbow. Do you find it seals well on the valve cover grommet? Our 2 catch can solutions and cars in general look oddly familiar haha.

Shibby 04-24-2016 11:57 AM

I had to oil it to get it past the valve cover grommet. It feels very solid.

It's a Dorman PCV Elbow #46022. The internet says it's for a 97-04 Ford. Dorman Products - 46022

Here's a Summit link. Dorman PCV Breather Hoses 46022 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Off to go look at your build..

Edit: We have made quite a few decisions in line with each other. High five!

leboeuf 04-24-2016 04:04 PM

Much thanks for the part numbers!

yossi126 04-24-2016 08:34 PM

Much awesome. Props. I enjoy reading this. :likecat:

MaineMiata91 04-25-2016 10:20 AM

Beautiful car, great work!!

GunmanGrim 04-25-2016 10:24 AM

Great work! Who is that faceless handsome fellow building that bracket and taping the shit out of that intake manifold. :laugh:

Shibby 04-25-2016 09:01 PM

5 Attachment(s)
This build thread thing is pretty motivating.

Master craftsman stuff ahead...

So, last week, the bolt to my apparently older style Mishimoto radiator sheared off when I was fixing the fan screwup. This bolt is unobtainium.. even from Mishimoto. They're supposedly looking into the depths of their bolt buckets to find me a new one.

In the meantime.. the broken bolt on the left, my best attempt at recreating it on the right. I slathered it with RTV and bolted it in. It's actually good, so far.
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Got to drive tonight. Blurry shot indicates speed.
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Anyone know what these air deflector/guides are actually called? Part number for a 90? I'd like to replace all 3.
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On tap for tomorrow is the paint matched to valve cover front swaybar.
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On tap for Friday is a road tune from a local Miata/Megasquirt referral. Hopefully everything goes well.

Shibby 06-03-2016 12:24 PM

22 Attachment(s)
Mini-update.

The car is tuned on the 8psi wastegate. I have an EBC to add in at some point. It's very good with the exception of cold-start and intermittent oscillations at idle. We'll keep working on those as time allows.

Un-level Cappuccino bottle from rushing the job. I still have to extend the power and connect the lines. I rarely use the washer bottle, so it hasn't been a priority.
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Color matched swaybar installed
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Mishimoto found the plug. I received 4 different drain plugs over four separate shipments from Mishimoto during this ordeal. They finally got it right. A couple of weeks after I got the correct one, I was sent the fourth one (was incorrect too). No idea what happened there.
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Building the intake shroud. I saw this hint to use wooden dowels to get the height correct in my searches and found it pretty clever. I'm running the shroud now, but it's still not 100% complete. We'll be making final adjustments soonish.
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I found a white trunk from a localish partout.
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The paint match is a bit off. Mine was painted early in its life from hail damage.. which explains why my white paint is still on the car at all. I'll be polishing the car within the next couple of months.. hopefully that helps the paint match better.
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Also picked up a used Voodoo shift knob and the last piece I needed for the air deflector.
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New seat belt receivers.
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Door sills added
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I need to get the car in the air again to fix a few issues.
There's an oil leak (about an inch in circumference overnight) from what I thought was the turbo drain. I've tightened both bolts, but it's still leaking. I literally can't find where the leak is coming from.
I've got the 65-75mph shimmy. I need to check to make sure the PPF is aligned and if it's okay, bring the tires back for another attempt at balancing.
Muffler exhaust is touching the bumper cutout on the upper right portion and burned it a bit. I have the poly hangars, but I may end up having to use muffler straps to align it.
Replace slow leaking diff plug.

Interior
Install 93LE seatbelts - I have to remove the rollbar to install seatbelts, right?
Remove airbag light
Set coolant temp with TunerStudio
Reseat speedometer - Hopefully I don't have to buy a new cable
Adjust steering wheel one tooth more to center it

Engine bay
Install radiator plug
Finish intake shield
Fire sleeve the coolant feed where it's contacting the manifold
Washer bottle power and fluid feed
Install EBC on backside of intake shield

shuiend 06-03-2016 03:11 PM

Just saw your thread. Was the maintenance party at BeerBurners house?

Shibby 06-03-2016 03:34 PM

No, Tim Metzinger's. I think BB was there helping out though.

Shibby 07-30-2016 09:19 PM

22 Attachment(s)
Window Relays – Used this link. I’m horrible at wiring, so there’s a lot of excess, but they work much faster.

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100k. Meaningless milestone. Only the chassis and the body are at 100k.

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Garage Floor showing a leak. This has been leaking since the winter build was completed, but it wasn’t so much (and I don’t drive a ton) that I was super concerned about doing it. I figured out that it was coming from the turbo drain and tightened both bolts on the underside of the turbo. Still leaked.

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This is the lowest point where the oil was leaking from.

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Flyin Miata hardline developed a crack around the mounting face. I brought it to a local speed shop to get welded, but he was unable to do it.

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He got me setup with a 10an line and the correct turbo fitting. All set for now.

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Starting seat belt swap

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I don't know how the previous seatbelts were threaded through the seat belt risers that exist to avoid the rollbar. The only way we could figure out how to install the riser was to completely disassemble the seatbelts. In a brilliant stroke of genius, we attempted the work on the existing black/faded belts. We ended up destroying both of them in the process, so it was good that we tested on those and not the 93LE ones. If you're not careful with the reel assembly upon disassembly/reassembly, the spring will uncoil violently. This was equal parts traumatizing and hilarious. So...if anyone needs a random seatbelt part for any reason, I'm your guy.
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I had to remove the little grommet that keeps the belts in place since I removed the ripstops before. Thought this was a subtle way of getting a little bit of my military history into the build. Those are paratrooper/airborne wings for those not in the know.
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Hood alignment was a bit high due to not clearing the intake shield enough.

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Fixed.
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Heater Core Line was extremely close (touching) the upper downpipe. I emailed FM to see what the solution is and then read the instructions. Should have done that in reverse. I ended up having the pry the line with a tool leveraged against the downpipe and got it out of the way.

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Probably a fire hazard
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Probably not a fire hazard. This is 1/2" heat resistant tubing for up to 1200 degrees. https://www.wirecare.com/products.asp?prodline=FGL
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Added an FM turbo shield from a member here.
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New mirrors. This is a semi-interesting story. These are the new Moss supplied Raydyot mirrors. My initial delivery was missing the parts that come pre-installed (see pic) on the mirror. I called them and asked them for the missing parts. They sent me two new complete mirrors. So, now I have 4 mirrors and the assembly parts for 3. I called them back and they said to just keep it all. Again, if anyone needs any parts on these for any reason, I'm your guy.

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Much tighter to the body of the car than the factory mirrors. I'm still adjusting to the lack of rear visibility.
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This is how the mounts looks up close. It's not well photographed from what I could see in other posts.
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Next project that I'll be working is shifting the butterfly brace all the way down the slot adjusters. I'm getting chassis vibrations cruising around 40mph and 75mph and a lot more through the mph range on decel. I already adjusted the PPF frame to within spec, but I'm still getting the vibrations. I'm hoping clearing the exhaust more will solve it.

astral 07-30-2016 11:26 PM

Great build thread so far, I went through the whole thing. Really like what you did with the valve cover and catch can.

Did you source your receivers through Mazda?

Shibby 07-31-2016 08:50 AM

Thanks a lot. Yeah, I had to break down and get the receivers new. I wasn't able to find a clean enough set used. They're so expensive for what they are.

https://parts.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...itle%3D-BUCKLE

https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuse...itle%3D-BUCKLE

astral 07-31-2016 03:06 PM


Originally Posted by Shibby (Post 1350502)
Thanks a lot. Yeah, I had to break down and get the receivers new. I wasn't able to find a clean enough set used. They're so expensive for what they are.

https://parts.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...itle%3D-BUCKLE

https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuse...itle%3D-BUCKLE

How much did they end up costing for the set?

viperormiata 07-31-2016 03:31 PM

Really cool.

Shibby 07-31-2016 06:21 PM

Re: astral - Around $115 shipped. I bought some other stuff, so I'm not positive on the final price.

psyber_0ptix 08-01-2016 08:44 AM

We need to meet up again.

You look pretty confident with sheet metal, wanna have a day where we all make radiator ducts and splitters? :D

Shibby 08-01-2016 08:51 AM


Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix (Post 1350679)
We need to meet up again.

You look pretty confident with sheet metal, wanna have a day where we all make radiator ducts and splitters? :D

LOL, that's not even me. I can make him come help tho!

18psi 08-01-2016 10:17 AM

great progress
those tires look real meaty on the wheels what are the sizes of both?

Shibby 08-01-2016 10:53 AM

Thanks!

15x8 first gen 6ULs. 205/50 RE71Rs.

psyber_0ptix 04-15-2017 08:12 PM

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4251db63f0.jpg
Hung out with Shibby today and wired up his d585 coils using bandits brackets into his Super clean VVT swapped NA. We also sorted out some leaky injector problems by installing brand new ID1000's, new O-ings and flow force spacers.

I really didn't know how much a pain in the ass those new springs on the adapter are. Otherwise everything went in swell.

Populated the dead times and all that jazz for the injectors, and Savingtons dwell table for the d585 coils and had a little stumble with the firing order which was sorted swiftly. Car started up great, no fuel leaks, and one tiny hiss from the fpr barb. We think the hose ID is a bit too wide, but not hotdogs in a hallway wide. It's got a zip tie on it and we took it for a drive. Did I forget to mention how clean this car is?


One problem :
The car doesn't want to Rev past 3000rpm.

We checked:
Revlimiter is set above 7000
overboost control is fine as it's not pressure dependent, not boosting more than 6psi before we first noticed the 3000rpm bucking
Spark plug gap is set to 0.030"
36-2 trigger wheel is new and we verified base timing and set the trigger mode to Miata 36-2 accordingly
Idles fine and drives around fine otherwise.

We're on our way back to drop me off as this post is being written and it started raining. Hopefully post a log and tune shortly.

I'm not sure what to look for if his car was driving fine before the trigger wheel, spark, and fuel upgrades.

sonofthehill 04-15-2017 09:03 PM

Is it possible that coupler on the throttle body is collapsing at 3 grand, it looks kinda kinked?

psyber_0ptix 04-15-2017 09:10 PM

Shibby, while driving, says, "it's always been like that but I'll check when I get home. It's trimmed short to clear the sway bar but I do need to get a new one."

This is interesting, but we where able to hit 6 psi so long as it was below 3k. Under positive pressure it shouldn't collapse. But still worth the investigation. I'm steal leaning toward it being a MS thing. Or maybe timing problem?

Shibby 04-16-2017 05:16 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Thanks for the idea, sonofthehill. I checked earlier today and it's not collapsing.

Psyber didn't mention that this is happening in neutral and every gear.

The current tune and log is attached. My tuner is coming by to help out on Wednesday, but if you guys have any ideas, let me know.

psyber_0ptix 04-16-2017 06:07 PM


Originally Posted by Shibby (Post 1406432)
Thanks for the idea, sonofthehill. I checked earlier today and it's not collapsing.

Psyber didn't mention that this is happening in neutral and every gear.

The current tune and log is attached. My tuner is coming by to help out on Wednesday, but if you guys have any ideas, let me know.


May get some input in the megasquirt section as well

mmmjesse 04-16-2017 09:13 PM

i am not an expert. I do see that the RPM is completely dropping out at 3k. Can you do a log with composite logger durring the problem? to see if either your cam or crank signal is dropping out?

psyber_0ptix 04-16-2017 09:47 PM

James, we took a composite log while it was in operation under 3k showing no sync losses, but this might be worth trying during the problem as mmmjesse suggested

Shibby 04-16-2017 10:16 PM

Thanks guys. I'll try to do that tomorrow evening.

sonofthehill 04-17-2017 11:11 AM

RPM dropping out, does every thing drop out except for WB O2? IIRC that is what a spark blow out log looks like. Can you post a screenshot of trying to go above 3000?

Shibby 04-18-2017 09:29 AM

5 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by sonofthehill (Post 1406577)
RPM dropping out, does every thing drop out except for WB O2? IIRC that is what a spark blow out log looks like. Can you post a screenshot of trying to go above 3000?

These logs are from a quick run around the neighborhood. The RPM is dropping out 1k higher and is having issues stalling when coming to a stop (hence 4 logs). My tuner should be able to take a look tomorrow, but if anything thinks there's anything wrong with the coils/timing/etc., let me know so I can try to fix before he arrives. I'm gonna fix the vacuum lines tonight.

Downmented 04-18-2017 10:38 AM

I didn't even know this build thread existed! It was nice to go through your progress, unfortunately I am of no help in your current situation lol. However I hope you are able to get it sorted out soon. Have you confirmed that all of your plugs are receiving spark? Have you doubled checked all of your intercooler pipes to insure there are no leaks or loose couplers?

sonofthehill 04-18-2017 02:14 PM

This looks like spark blow out or a loose ignition wire somewhere. Maybe a spark plug wire or a coil wire. Maybe you have one of your limiters set too low. I still haven't looked at your tune yet, so just guessing. Your tach will drop off like that if you have an ignition problem.

Shibby 04-18-2017 02:23 PM


Originally Posted by Downmented (Post 1406915)
I didn't even know this build thread existed! It was nice to go through your progress, unfortunately I am of no help in your current situation lol. However I hope you are able to get it sorted out soon. Have you confirmed that all of your plugs are receiving spark? Have you doubled checked all of your intercooler pipes to insure there are no leaks or loose couplers?

I even posted a picture of your car when it was still running!

We tested the spark output and they were all good. I'll check the piping.

Shibby 04-18-2017 02:23 PM


Originally Posted by sonofthehill (Post 1406991)
This looks like spark blow out or a loose ignition wire somewhere. Maybe a spark plug wire or a coil wire. Maybe you have one of your limiters set too low. I still haven't looked at your tune yet, so just guessing. Your tach will drop off like that if you have an ignition problem.

I'll recheck to make sure everything is seated well. I believe it is, but it doesn't hurt to look again.

sonofthehill 04-18-2017 02:32 PM

You don't have a 160kpa spark cut boost limit set up do you? If not what plugs are you running again? I know they are gapped .030 which should be fine.

Shibby 04-18-2017 02:42 PM

BKR7E plugs. I just verified that the plug wires are connected well and the IC is connected well. I'll have to look at the spark cut later since I don't have TS on this laptop.

Shibby 04-18-2017 02:48 PM

This page needed a photo, hahahttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3cfdbac7eb.jpg

Also, I appreciate the help sonofthehill.

psyber_0ptix 04-18-2017 03:23 PM

Pop burble burble.

Everyone was cat calling james when we where driving around

psyber_0ptix 07-17-2017 03:18 PM

Does this work yet?

Shibby 07-17-2017 03:19 PM

I'll know this evening. *crosses fingers*

psyber_0ptix 07-20-2017 10:07 PM

Whats new?

Shibby 07-21-2017 07:04 AM

1 Attachment(s)
A wee bit of rod knock on cylinder 3.

So, I'm gonna take the easy route and purchase the below...

Anyone need a fancy 949 CNC Ported Head? I'm not gonna use the valvetrain, clutch, flywheel, reroute, and I'm debating on whether or not to keep the oil cooler lines. If anyone is interested in any of these parts, let me know. They'll be posted soon regardless.

Attachment 231951

For sale is a freshly built, never started 2000 (NB) engine set up for a turbo- or supercharger. This was in my Exocet project. Egine is complete, assembled and ready to go; just add oil, water and your intake. The build:
Long block assembled by RP Performance (Summit Point Spec Miata specialist) with balanced crank,
all new new internals: main bearings, ARP studs (mains and head), seals, gaskets, harmonic damper, crank and cam angle sensors.
Manley forged rods - Manley Forged Connecting Rods Miata
Supertech 9.0:1 pistons, 949 racing ring package - Supertech Pistons Miata
Boundary Engineering oil pump - Mazda\Ford BP Assembled Oil Pump W/Billet Gears ? Boundary
949 Racing cast impeller water pump - New Water Pump Miata
949 Racing Supermiata lightweight flywheel - Miata Flywheel BP
949 Racing Sport clutch - SuperMiata Sport Clutch Kit Miata BP
949 Racing coolant reroute with custom silicone/aluminum line - Miata Coolant Reroute System
949 racing CNC ported head -$3,000 new with new supertech valves, dual valve springs, three angle valve job. NB cam, valve lash set. - SuperMiata CNC Miata Bare Head - (they only sell the bare head nowadays)
includes alternator.
Gates belt, new tensioners, gaskets, plugs and the rest. Even has a new dipstick. Mocal oil thermostat, -10 AN oil lines for an oil cooler. M21 fittings to plug into any Setrab oil cooler.
Engine comes on a rolling engine stand.
$5,000/obo
No trades please.

psyber_0ptix 07-21-2017 07:30 AM

Hey, it started!

Shibby 11-03-2017 10:48 AM

17 Attachment(s)
I now own the engine in the previous post and have sold a few things from there to recoup some funds. The CNC BP4W head is still available (shameless reference: https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...nc-head-94833/). To commemorate my build thread update, I'm lowering the price to $2500 shipped to CONUS residents.
Attachment 231934

So, back to the engine with the rod knock. There was a slight issue of leaving blast media residue in the intake manifold. I did call the company that did this for me to let them know that they should clean these much better (or at all) before providing back to the customer, or to let them know to tell that customer that it's necessary to clean them. Obviously, I found all of the warnings around MiataTurbo after this happened to me... (for more about this, see my build thread title again!)

Attachment 231935

Attachment 231936

Attachment 231937

I'm not sure how this blast media issue ended up with a rod knocking, but my theory is that a cylinder flooded and it hydrolocked? No clue, doens't really matter now.

Attachment 231938

Attachment 231939

I'm reusing the VVT head so I brought it to the machine shop to get it cleaned up. I ended up with a three angle valve job and everything re-assembled to spec.

Attachment 231940

Attachment 231941

Got a Qmax reroute

Attachment 231942

Swapping the non-VVT oil pump for a VVT BE pump. I hated to have to do this, but it gave me a chance to put my 01-05 oil pan on which has the Main Bearing Support Plate and is already drilled for the oil return.

Attachment 231943

Redid the intake manifold. There was a communication issue between the powdercoater and me. I thought he'd clean the entire thing out before coating it... I'm still cleaning it out. I'll be super sure this is as clean as possible before it goes back on.

Attachment 231944

Worked on some visual mods. Sanded down the lights to remove the raised lettering and added an LED ring to the NA taillights for running lights. You'll want to crack the taillights open and wire the LEDs to the wire that feeds your running light.

You need two of these: https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...cob/2797/5854/

And two of these: https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...des/1082/2573/

It's very subtle - I doubt most Miata owners would even notice it.

Attachment 231945

Attachment 231946

Attachment 231947

Built headliner with a friend and Psyber_0ptix. I found the side trim panels about a year ago on a Facebook group. I had never seen them before and have never seen any for sale. I paid $75 shipped for them, which I think is insane for the rarity of them.

Attachment 231948

Attachment 231949

And, here is why progress has been so slow. I'm really enjoying the NC. It's a great car if you give it a chance. The white one in front is mine.
Attachment 231950

Shibby 11-03-2017 10:51 AM

Question for anyone - the only thing left that had blast media ran through it is the turbo. Any recommendations for how to address cleaning the CHRA?

18psi 02-13-2018 11:49 PM

Loving this build :D

psyber_0ptix 02-14-2018 09:30 AM

Me toooo

psyber_0ptix 06-23-2018 11:14 PM

Today we accomplished quite a lot.

We replaced the leaky copper crush washers on the vvt hardline, cranked the hell out of the banjo bolt to stop it from leaking. We had previously made a pre-oiler so it would pressurize the system with oil testing for leaks.

Tried to assess the non start condition. Cam signal was working but there was no crank. We jumped the crank sensor to the cam plug and confirmed the crank sensor was functioning. Ultimately the problem was a bum solder joint on the signal wire. He​​​​ was missing a grommet for the crank plug and we suspected it wasn't making good connection despite trying to zip tie it shut. We depinned it and nested the harness side pins into the crank sensor plug and it tried to turn over. We then just straight bypassed the plug all together and it works fine.

​​​​Other things we did:

We ate chick fil a.

We connected a brand new speedo cable to the speed sensor

Reinstalled all the plumbing and intake manifold

Fixed a busted terminal to the oil pressure sender

Pumped in fresh trans fluid

Changed the clutch master cylinder and bled the clutch

We started it on Vlad base map and got it to idle and confirmed timing whilst topping off coolant.

We then tried to take it out to get broken in, can Rev up to 4k but then experience some funny misfires. We benched it for a non rainy day but at least the car is running and all leaks seem to be mitigated so far.



https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...18c7adae14.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f52a92e9b3.jpg

Shibby 06-23-2018 11:25 PM

I really appreciate the help/motivation to get this moving forward. I would have struggled through a lot of what we got accomplished today without your help. It was nice to drive again even if it only lasted a few minutes.

I need to get logs off to 18psi tomorrow for his review.

psyber_0ptix 06-24-2018 11:28 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Ok so the 4k stumble is some crazy sync loss action. Also VVT doesn't seem to be working at all; solenoid, actuator?



https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b8bd1d423c.png

wackbards 06-24-2018 01:02 PM

I just had an electrical issue with the VVT oil control valve that resulted in zero VVT movement. Check for basics like power & ground and check resistance across pins on the ocv. Spec is 6.9-7.9 ohms. You can also pull it out to see if it's physically moving when your vvt target changes and you can inspect the filter up there for clogging.

ridethecliche 06-24-2018 01:15 PM


Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix (Post 1488071)
Ok so the 4k stumble is some crazy sync loss action. Also VVT doesn't seem to be working at all; solenoid, actuator?



https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b8bd1d423c.png


Stock trigger wheel? Any high res logs?

psyber_0ptix 06-24-2018 01:40 PM


Originally Posted by ridethecliche (Post 1488080)
Stock trigger wheel? Any high res logs?

I don't have composite logs since we corrected the wiring and it started up just fine.
​​​​
It's a 36-2 Supermiata damper. It's on the correct setting in Ms and base timing was spot on and required no adjustment. It's idling and driving fine until 4k when sync loss count manifests. Loss reason 2 which is why we are looking into a new sensor and will check valve cover bolts.

Apparently this issue was also present on the previous motor before it banana rodded. I'm thinking it's a wiring/ms problem.

The previous owner did some strange things with this car and direct wired the cars harness to the db37, makes in a pain in the ass to troubleshoot wiring since there is no space to modify the db37 under the air filter in cabin. The fuel pump always stays on when keyed onto ACC. It never shuts down which can be dangerous for various reasons.

I also recommended maybe having the unit checked on Brains stim.

psyber_0ptix 06-24-2018 01:42 PM


Originally Posted by wackbards (Post 1488078)
I just had an electrical issue with the VVT oil control valve that resulted in zero VVT movement. Check for basics like power & ground and check resistance across pins on the ocv. Spec is 6.9-7.9 ohms. You can also pull it out to see if it's physically moving when your vvt target changes and you can inspect the filter up there for clogging.

I think I can scrounge up another solenoid or two to test out. Reworking the power and the ground back to ms3 should be pretty painless. Thanks for the resistance values, @Shibby might be able to check this on his own with a multimeter.


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