:rofl:

Nice thinking with the PPF! :bigtu: Hopefully it holds up to big boost.

Test driving reveals a host of new rattles in the dash and from the engine and exhaust.

I cleaned out the a/c evaporator while I had the dash out. So many leaves and little pieces. But I'm amazed at how much stronger the airflow is out of the vents now! It blows like Hustler's mom now!

Makes a lot of gross noises but still leaves you with crushing disappointment and self-loathing?

No, that's the car itself.

:rofl:

After I return from the gap I will swap to my V8 roadsters tubular subframe and aluminum upper control arms in the front. Extra space around the subframe should allow me to do a nicer job on the heat shielding to prevent rattles. All in due time.

Radiator fan stays on (factory circuit coming from drivers side harness). Tach stopped working possibly at the same time. A/C compressor stopped engaging. Not sure if all are related but they seemed to be at the same time.

So, I'm overdue for some updates. The wiring issue was probably caused by a bad ground to the engine. My ppf solution did not include a ground cable connection between the front of the ppf and the transmission. That has been remedied. But the wiring that burned up on the cooling fan circuit caused damage to the ms3 board. I repaired the wiring and replaced the cooling fan relays with a 40 amp heavy duty aftermarket relay.

I sourced a new board from Reverent and promptly damaged it as well. He didn't tell me his decoder was different on this new board and I needed to change my cam angle sensor from falling edge to rising edge so the car was not starting. The fuel pump wasn't activating and the car was not cranking and occasionally backfiring. While testing the fuel pump relay circuit I inadvertently sent 12 volt positive to the signal ground from the ECU and fucked this board also. Yay me.

Reverent advised me to change the outputs and use some of the spares on the board rather than buying yet another one. I did and it works.

Because I burned the board it was also sending 5 volts positive out on the signal ground to the AC compressor relay which was back feeding into my "hot in run" circuit keeping it energized all the time. This meant I had a trickle of flow into all sorts of circuits. I worked around this problem by reassigning that function to another output and it works.

I drove the car around a little bit to test it out make sure it functions properly. Now I need to check my brake pad wear and bleed the brakes in preparation for the track day.

A month ago I pulled the bumper cover off and opened up the black plastic bumper support to allow more air to go upward on both sides of the oil cooler and into the radiator. I felt like having that opening only feed through that oil cooler was restricting airflow volume to the radiator. I think I took some pics. I will look for them when I'm not driving, lol.

Edit: Nope. No pics.

Glad to hear you're back on the road in time for the track day. Nothing like cutting it down to the wire. I'll miss this event unfortunately. Still dicking with wiring and such.

I bought a cheap second hood for track use and outfitted it with proper ventilation.

Can't use it full time because of location of air filter and rain.

Where is the filter? I run my car through the rain and car wash all day long with the same vents.

Also I'm glad you are sorted for next weekend. i just got the car up and running as well. cutting it close.

The filter is on the turbo which means it is right under the long driver's side vent.

Time to replace that pesky driver side headlight with a filter.

First I have to figure out why none of my parking lights on the front of the car are working. That's a new problem.

Just put a shield over the top of the filter so that the rain doesn't fall directly on it when parked and you shouldnt have a problem.

I was thinking the same thing.

Ideally I would like the filter in a little bit cooler location anyway so I may just deal with it that way.

Large PVC pipe around the filter was my go-to when I had this problem.

There's an air filter heat/rain shield waiting at home depot for you to make <$5. Although I have been to Sebring when a bucket would've served me better than a shield.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6305fc62c8.jpg

From January at Sebring. Finally uploaded it. Was overheating occasionally during the run because this was on the old radiator.

Updates.

New 140 or 150 amp alternator, can't recall which.

New Spal 16in fan
New 80a relay for fan
New 40a fuse for fan.
Big additional wire from battery to fuse block.
Giant triple pass stock car radiator (25% thicker, 25% wider core)
Tubular front subframe from V8R
New undertray made from a street sign (solid plastic core with aluminum sheet sandwich on both sides)
3in brake ducts for GV lip and Singular clamshells
New Wilwood directional rotors (about $90 apiece)
Ducting for oil cooler

Went to MATG,

Parts I have but have yet to install:
Xidas 800/400
Billet upper front control arms
New seatbelts
New carpet
Matching boost gauge
Baller rear hubs with long studs

I need to do some of these before track season this fall.


Wish list:
Paint and body
New windshield

I also need to do a track day and see if the cooling modifications helped.