Well, looks like I'll need quite a bit of ballast for PTE and even SPM S2

1/2 tank, no driver.
Attachment 233875














CMP in November?!

Maybe! Like always, it looks like the last CCR AX event is scheduled for that same weekend...

Well, you've done tons of those, come to the track instead!

More prep work for ViR/Hyperfest this weekend.


I actually washed the car, it's still a decent 20 footer!
Attachment 233859

MmmmmMmm beer! If anyone went to MATG last year, we hit this brewery up on the Saturday beer-run. Planning to do that again, but probably not with as many ppl this time :rofl:
Attachment 233860

Gotta get the stickers on the car somehow. Some love for SadFab.
Attachment 233861

My super organized and never ending check-list:
Attachment 233862

Put a new window in, regular glass. My old one was so pitted it was hazy and annoying to see out of, was on the verge of cracking in several places. Thankfully, my brother does this type of work so I got the hook-up in price and install
Attachment 233863

This is version 1 of ballast for the car, 140lbs pictured here. I've got a 10" long and 1" diameter bolt thru the frame rail and floor-board, bolted with the washer shown here on top, and a 12"x3"x1/8" piece of steel that runs along the frame rail underneath. Straps are to help prevent it from wiggling, not to hold it down. With the strap tight it was surprising how sturdy it felt. Ballast is annoying to deal with, almost kind of stressful...."I'll just go ahead and bolt this 100+lb PROJECTILE in the case of an accident to my floor here, wcgw?!". I look forward to the day I don't have to use it.
Attachment 233864

I believe this will be my spot for driver's side mirror. It's placed on the front part of the quarter-window frame, which is actually spot-welded on. I initially thought I would be unbolting it all, but it was a silver-lining being spot-welded on.
Attachment 233865
Attachment 233866
Attachment 233867

I use an open trailer, so I need to set my windows back in to keep it "water resistant". This means I need to reinstall the quarter-window frame to slide the door-window in. I'll be practicing this reinstall, but it should be too horrible.
Attachment 233868
Attachment 233869

Installed the cage padding, don't judge my zip-tie job. The padding isn't very bendy, so I had to cut it in sections to fit right. It's SFI rated high impact padding . I also know the adhesive on the inside of it will not hold up to my grabbing and sitting on it to get in/out. Not pictured is a piece right over my head on the main hoop.
Attachment 233870
Attachment 233871
Attachment 233872

Last week when I was towing the car to/from my alignment guy I noticed my trailer is kind of tilted up, both empty and loaded.
Attachment 233873
Attachment 233874
No pictures of after, but I lowered the hitch one setting and it actually seems to be better in pulling and stopping. Particularly when pulling up any incline from a stop, it use to "lurch" back, now it doesn't!



There's a few small things to do on the car. Check coolant level, put undertray on, and double check torque on several bolts I've touched. Really anxious to drive ViR again, it's been about 3 years now. I just hope it doesn't piss-pour rain the whole weekend.

I have purchased one set of Hoosiers for this car ;)

oh, contiginceeees?

A little late on the update, been busy with a new job and went up to Indy this past weekend. Drove up to pick up my dad's new-to-him miata:
Attachment 233855

03 garnet red from vteckiller. My dad is wanting to run it in E-Street. We'll see how long that lasts :giggle:


Anyways, Hyperfest/ViR update!

Car did really well, much better than I thought it would to be honest. Saturday morning was the first time going faster than 5mph since the subframe swap, new SadFab MR-S hubs, cage, new seat, ballast, and a few other odds/ends. Conditions were wet to damp to dry through Saturday, so I was able to gain some confidence by the last session on Saturday.... night almost. Still wasn't sending it like I have before, was apparently fighting some mental blocks. Still a great time and a win in TTE.... only 4 so no Hoosier contingency :(




Hung with the 949 crew basically all weekend.
Attachment 233856

It was great to meet them all and awesome to see the cars in person.
Attachment 233857

What was even more impressive was their determination to push on even with some offs with damages. Props for never giving up!!!
Attachment 233858



Dan was able to come over by Saturday night and drove Sunday. We entered the event as Team Just Gonna Send it again...... it was sent!

2:14.888 is 0.600 off the record and on par with the fastest miata TTE time! Keep in mind, this was the 18th heat cycle on these tires, it was a 2:30pm session, the exhaust fell off after oak tree, and my diff is basically open.





Next event is at good ole Road Atlanta in June. I don't know if I'll be able to touch the previous time set of 1:42.4xx since it'll be HOT, but I feel confident about getting into the 1:43s. Though, the car is much better with the recent changes in terms of responsiveness. I think the car has been "off" for quite some time :rofl:

That car sounds incredible for a BP...

Nice work so far!

With or without the exhaust?

Well, erm... both. But really with.

Road Atlanta was fun, as usual, and I would consider it a success! It was HOT!!!!!! Got the win on Saturday with 9 in class with a new PB of 1:43.615. Sunday I sucked and only managed a 1:44.3xx. I need to work on going faster on Sundays......

Attachment 233853

First lap behind the gold mustang speaks for itself.... second lap is a 1:44.3xx, third lap in the video is the 1:43.6.


I had a vitrual best of 1:43.0xx for this weekend. Confident I could see 1:41s in cooler weather. Fix my mistakes in T3 and T5 and I could see high 1:40s.... Never the less, Luke had a legit 1:42.8xx on Sunday noon session.... very impressive. I'm glad I get to run with him.


Side-note.... I HAVE to get some heat-reflecting something. I have SFI fire rated shoes, but not anit-cooking shoes. My foot is literally cooking and it formed this:
Attachment 233854
:rofl:




I'm up in the air about Barber at the end of July. I might just skip it...... Luke's story time will explain more :doh: Definitely doing the AMP event before Miatas at the Gap since I'm helping with organization on it. If things go according to plan I'll likely go up to Mid-Ohio at the end of August..... I don't think I could do Grid.Life at RA. One blistering hot RA event a year is enough for me.

Oh man, I'm way behind....... uuummmmm

AMP was fun! Great turn out for the first Miatas before the Gap event and a wet one as well. Ran my car no ballast, so that was fun at 2250lbs ish. Let JohnWag drive the car for a couple of sessions as well.


Later on I did an auto-x in my buddy's E92M3. This thing is pretty sweet. We paxed 1st and 3rd at a local.




Heading to NCM this weekend. Gunning for the TTE record! Cross your fingers the weather holds out!!!


After some contemplation and complaining to NASA I'll be running ST6/TT6 next year. ~2490lbs at 137rwhp peak/133 avg. I'll be swapping in a 6spd and keeping my 4.3 final-drive. I'll eventually put in a MS to change maps, maybe have a detuned map for 6 and a max power map for "5".

I think we can change my thread title now too. Something clever for ST6/TT6?

Come down to Sebring on December 22nd. The weather is good here then.

I've definitely thought about it.... another TTE record to snatch!

Well, that date is just a track day with a club and not a NASA event. But it would be good practice and lots of fun and good weather.

Back from NCM. Got the win in TTE, but unfortunately no TTE record for that track for me. It's fairly technical so I would need more seat time to put down the faster times. Never the less, the track is a blast and I'll be going back soon.

Saturday started off damp.
Attachment 233850

Did the first two sessions, warm-up while damp and another with a dry line. Noticed some pretty heavy "this bearing is fucked" noises. Went to the rear first since I had some recent trouble on those, both good. Checked front and driver's front had some play in it. This Moog bearing lasted 5 events for me..... I can see why so many people want better front bearings.
Attachment 233851

Buddy of mine hooked me up with his spare! I was ready to go out the next session rather quickly. I'll be adding front hub to my spare parts list to bring.
Attachment 233852

The steering was wayyy lighter after replacing the bearing too :rofl: Managed a 2:23.8xx that next session on Saturday, next session which was still good conditions got red flagged for a 944 that caught fire and we all came in without turning a lap. Next session felt WAYY faster, but it was actually slower, fuuughhckkk.



Good conditions for Sunday, tires at 10-11 heat-cycles depending on if you count the wet session Saturday morning. First session car feels great, but times were way off pace, but it was a super green track since it was first of the day.

2nd session at 10:00AM, felt good and motivated......


Too many mistakes, only managed a 2:23.5xx. :( Weighed in at 2438lbs at the end of the session.



Next event could be CMP in two weeks or RA first weekend of Dec or Roebling in Jan. Just depends on weather and budget.

Finished up my last TTE event, ever!

Attachment 233849

I feel like my car and myself have done fairly well in the class. Multiple regional class wins, which ultimately funded my efforts with contingency Hoosiers.

A total of 4 TTE track records:
Barber - 1:46.0xx for me!
Road Atlanta - 1:42.4xx James | 1:43.5xx for me
CMP - 1:48.5xx James | 1:50.1xx for me
Roebling - 1:22.2xx James | 1:22.6xx for me

And a few times 0.5-1ish seconds off the records there:
Mid Ohio - Record - 1:40.8xx| 1:41.4xx Dan | 1:44.3xx for me(2 sessions total)
ViR - Record - 2:14.2xx | 2:14.8xx Dan | 2:16.0 for me
NCM - Record - 2:22.2xx | 2:23.5xx for me

Lots of variables in each circumstance of course. Heat-cycle count, conditions, if my engine was about to seize, if I had my head up my ass, etc. Admittedly, I've sacrificed some good sessions to actually see what the car can do. It might have taken away from "glory", but ultimately it's made me a better driver which is more important to me at least.


This weekend was at Road Atlanta, brought some ~13 heat-cycle tires so chances of getting the 1:41s were slim. The forecast for the entire weekend was complete dog-shit, so the motivation to mount up some stickers was slim to none. Never the less I went down there in the rain.... with only R7s. Saturday morning meeting was cold, damn near completely dark, and raining..... talked to some other TTE guys..... turns out they have wets. It POURED alll day so I didn't even go out on Saturday.

Sunday had a much better forecast and turned out great for the second half of the day. Finally got into the groove..... on the last session of the day lol.

Finally did a data overlay on my video!




Heading to comp school next month at Roebling. I have a few things to tidy up on the car along with 2x kill-switches. I'm going to make my best effort at ST6 at Mid Ohio next year with TT in the south most likely. Looking forward to some w2w finally!

Bunch of changes for the car and life. Heading to Roebling this weekend in TT5. Also started a part-time gig with Nine Lives Racing, hence the aero.

Current config...
2250lbs wet
131rwhp avg
15x8s 205 R7s
9LR big-wang 64" swan neck
9LR prototype airdam w/ 3" splitter

More updates later!

Attachment 233842

Attachment 233843

Attachment 233844

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Attachment 233846

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Attachment 233848

Greg: +0.001 adjustment per rivet

Marcus: Hold my beer!

Copying from DiY aero thread....

Dollars spent: $250ish
Hours spent: 16+
How effective: 2
0=slower, 1, no improvement, 2 =slightly better,3= big improvement
Materials used: 0.100" HDPE, 10mm alumalite, turn-buckles/wires, 6x nuts/bolt/fender washers and rivets.......lots of rivets
Bracket location: Hard-mount in OEM holes for rear of under-tray. Cable-wire/turn-buckles for front and side mounting points. L-brackets on splitter for air-dam to rest on.
Tracks tested on: Roebling Road
Race/TT class built for: ST5/TT5/GLTC




Admittedly, a buddy and me slapped this together in a hurry. Did my best to off-set the rear downforce of the 9LR 64" swan-neck, even at 0 AOA.


This was put together with 9LR prototype air-dam made out of 0.100" HDPE. It has about 3x as many rivet holes as needed, I needed up using every other hole, which is still 40 rivets across the top of it. Thank god for air rivet gun!
Attachment 233825


Mocking the air-dam up, I attempted to mount it on the furthest edge possible on the front bumper. Lining up this pre-cut prototype up with the very top of the bumper edge where it meets the fenders. I figured I didn't want it to be riveted to the fender in case of contact and for ease of disassembly on the fenders.
Attachment 233826


Once mounted, we realized it was low as damnit. So we'll have to do some custom fab work with box-cutter later. 2x4 for reference.......
Attachment 233827


Got the left-over alumalite mocked up as well..... quickly noticed if this piece is mounted level with the subframe it'll point straight at the opening of the mouth of the air-dam. OR have so much AOA that'll dig into anything it gets near like..... sand, dirt, grass, curbs, or even loading ramps :rofl:
Attachment 233828

Attachment 233829


Also noted the left-over piece doesn't quite reach the sub-frame if I intended to do a ~3" splitter lip.
Attachment 233830


So we opted for a uuhhh..... "modular" design here. Cut the very edge of this alumalite, drilled holes for sub-frame, mocked it onto main piece, drilled a few more holes, and fastened it together.
Attachment 233831


Thankfully during mock-up and I had the fore-sight to make sure the holes were 1. accessible from the top to tighten 2. don't send the drill-bit into something important, like the steering rack or oil-pan :bigtu:
Attachment 233832


Used some cable-wire, turn-buckles with J-hooks on one side, and eye-lit bolts with bigass washers. Mounted two in the front to the edge of the mouth, using the two bolts on the bumper support. Two others mounted on the sides using two bolts right off the frame.
(Note: I stole this idea from Dan :party:) This actually works out pretty damn well and I'd recommend it. I would like to find a way to get the bottom of the eye-lit bolts counter-sunk or flush with the under-tray though. Maybe version 2 will have that?
Attachment 233833


As you can see here, after cutting the bottom of the air-dam to line up with the "modular" splitter there's not much material of the air-dam at the bottom of the mouth opening. It's also super low, so not ideal for air-flow since I did not do/have time for proper ducting.
Attachment 233834




We cut the mouth higher and added a spare piece of ABS to cover the bottom and of course.... more rivets! Also pictured, is one of the L-brackets. I got some 1.5" aluminum angle stock and cut it into multiple 2", 1", and 1/2" slivers. Drilled holes into one side and riveted them onto the splitter following a tight path around the airdam. Carefully not surpassing 5* of air-dam angle ;)
Attachment 233835


Marked the 3" lip with super precision and took the air-saw to it.
Attachment 233836


Relatively finished here. Ended up doing some more cutting on the air-dam to prevent the bulging on the sides in front of the wheels.
Attachment 233837



And on the ground!
Attachment 233838
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Attachment 233841



Additional notes:
The mouth turned out to be too small for drafting. Car crept up to 3/4 on OEM temp gauge while drafting for 1/4 of a lap(2.2mile course) while it was slight over-cast and ~75* ambient. My miata has 37mm Koyo v-core and Qmazxreroute. Ducting would resolve this problem while in a draft with this size of an opening, IMO.

The car gained 5hp, lost ~150lbs, and added this aero package since the last time I was at Roebling.
Previous times in TTE trim of 130rwhp, 2440lbs,Xida800/500,RB1.125"/14mm, 205 R7s, 15x9s - 1:21.7xx - 1:23.0xx
New times in TT5 trim of 135rwhp, 2300lbs, Xida800/500,RB1.125"/14mm, 205 R7s, 15x8s - 1:19.4xx - 1:21.7xx

The largest difference with this aero both my co-driver and I noticed was how settled it was on a slip-angle. It required smaller inputs to correct to squiggle thru. Unfortunately I was not running AiM data two years when I was at Roebling last :(

This comparison actually does a decent job of showing the difference of inputs:
NASA TT5 Track Record Lap Roebling Road - 1:19.499 vs. NASA TTE Roebling unofficial track record - James Cathers by VJ why we slap | YouTube Doubler | Mashup Helper



New TT5 record with TT6 power..... I'm a believer in aero.

New PB, but I'm a wimp in T3. Data shows I lost ~0.5 seconds in T3 alone by that slight lift O_O. Lap 10 on this longer TT session, ~85* ambient, ~2:00PM, not much over-cast. Benchracing/data shows this pace would have been mid 1:20s in the 10:45 session, but that session got cancelled from delays/quiet hour.

Running my TT6 car with ~120lbs less and aero in TT5.
99 Miata 2330lbs 135rwhp peak
9livesracing.com 64" Swan-Neck Big Wang at 0 AOA
9livesracing.com proto-type air-dam
DiY 3" splitter
Xidas 800/500 RB 1.125"/14mm
205 R7 on 15x8

TT5 Roebling record. Superior driving and good conditions yielded 1:19.49x. At my current weight I could actually run 146rwhp avg instead of the current 130rwhp...... Optimal TT5 laps at Roebling will be low 1:18s/high 1:17s.

I'm way behind!


Did NASA TT5 at Road Atlanta in June, still 135rwhp 2320ish lbs, aero, etc. Managed the win, woot. But still went same pace :(




Then did the Miatas Before the Gap event I help with as well and it went great! Also...... David with Kmiata let me drive one their cars, the K24Z3 setup. I am officially ruined.


My boi @jcoupe got me situated with some Nine Lives Racing stickies!
Attachment 233823


Here's a session while playing around with @vteckiller2000




The car with the aero is way easier to drive, making me feel like I'm under-driving it. I'll be working on this part.

It's 100% time for more power....

Next event was best event........

Attachment 233822


Despite being bummed out about several things in life and being under-prepped, the GLTC guys kept me motivated and I did my first official race with them at Road Atlanta at the end of August. It was a blast and I'm very glad I went through with it!

My car this event was.....
2320lbs 135rwhp peak
9LR proto-type NB aero kit, air-dam, 3" splitter, ducting/mounts, swan-neck 64" Big Wáng
SPM Xidas 800/500 1.125"F/14mmR
15x9s 205 R7s
6spd/4.3


GLTC ratio for my setup should be 13.25:1, so at my current weight of 2320 I'd want 175rwhp peak. I'm a ways off at 17.18:1 :giggle:



I can't recall every detail of each race, but I got them all on video! My main goal was to complete the entire weekend clean. I did have some throttle cable issues during practice and qualifying Friday night. The rubber grommet kept coming off the bracket, thankfully I got it resolved for the races. It left me with a horrible qualifying time, though.


Race 1
Starting like 26th, which is better than the very back like initially intended as a rookie driver. Scott(rookie "chief") was kind enough to let me start from qualifying position. We were all trying to get through concrete valley clean and calm, which happened every race! My main problem this race, imo, I kept "presenting" myself for a pass when I definitely should have not. Kept killing sections because I would show myself on the inside and I was no where near the opportunity. Ended up running with an e36(also under-prepped) and a TCA Civic, it was really a great first race for me once I got past the "don't fuck it up" thoughts.



Race 2
Moved to starting around 22nd, Cody Mason behind me at the start with his rear-mount turbo setup. He uhhhhh *ahem* got a good start :rofl:. I also learned the Fiero that passes me on the back straight is 170rwhp at 2200lbs, so that makes sense of why he motors by me. Spent the race running around with Sally in the TCA Civic again. I also had to deal with a standard power vs grip battle at Road Atlanta with a ITS mustang. Got around him eventually in the right spot and made up some ground.



Race 3
Sunday morning now. Yes that's a mini-van, yes he waxed me, no I couldn't see around him at all. It was actually pretty entertaining seeing that thing out there, 280whp/3400lbs iirc. TomO is in the silver E36 at this point, which I didn't know until after the race. Makes sense why the driver got more aggressive all of the sudden, lol. On the first lap you'll note a bump to the e36 and I'm peddling as hard as I can on the back straight :bowrofl: At the end of the race Sally figures out the TCA car and rips past me on the last lap, lol. I was told 2800lbs/200whp on that car +\-. Our times this session were mid-high 1:43s- low 1:44s.



Race 4
Better start, but I still need to work on them for sure. Mostly by myself, which allows me to run down the FCP Benz. Their TCR driver was in it, I have no idea on the setup for that car. First thing I noticed while following him is that his braking points were late, basically the same as mine. So I knew passing him under braking wasn't happening. Noticed he was slow up T1, so the plan was to squeeze by him in T12 and keep him behind me going into T1. Then I knew I could keep him back there. Surprisingly enough, the plan worked after he made a mistake in T10A. It was a good match between us and I really enjoyed this race. Racecraft is neat and it's definitely given me the motivation I needed.

In regards to the car.

I got a 2" wheel spacer, it helps more than I thought it would. My seat is at a good spot for my legs, but I wanted the wheel to be closer. Also helps other drivers, like my dad, who are shorter than me.

Attachment 233820


To resolve my trans tunnel heat issues I bought some DEI heat shielding to put on the under-side. For the foot-well side I opted for some..... horse-stall mat! No more foot blisters! I consider this a win.

Attachment 233821



I'll be taking a break from events to save money for some mo' powah. More details on that to come as I move along in that process.

In much more exciting news, we(9LR) are developing a front aero kit for NA/NB!

Attachment 233816


We've been doing CFD tests for this, so these designs are actually backed from data too! Not surprising to most here, the typical combination of air-dam, 3-4" splitter, ducting, and low drag rear wing makes for a good aero balance on a NA/NB. So the wheel isn't being completely reinvented on this configuration. Though it is improved upon, backed with testing, and most importantly..... making it easier to bring this type of aero to the masses.


The goal of this kit is to be a bolt-on install process, no fabrication required, and sturdy enough to hold up to your typical track abuse within reason!!


The kit will include air-dam pre-cut, radiator ducting, splitter, and splitter mounts. Prototype version 1 here, changes have already happened and will likely continue.
Attachment 233817

The kit is modular, meaning you won't have to run the air-dam if you don't want to. The splitter can be specified in it's size, so it can flush with the air-dam or entirely behind the bumper line to be an "under-tray". It fits with OEM bumpers, NB pictured here.
Attachment 233818


It even works with the tow-hooks.
Attachment 233819



Additional testing with different materials for both the mounts/ducting and the splitter this weekend at Road Atlanta. Once this is completed we'll have an actual idea of time-lines for release or maybe additional testers, we shall see.


Once finalized we'll have entire aero packages, including this front-aero kit and a rear wáng. High, medium, and low down-force options will be available. The one on my car is the medium config and likely the most popular option. The entire medium option package will have a price-point lower than your typical carbon-fiber wing kit. :bigtu:

Is there going to be a “50% fewer rivets!!” option?

because that’s the option I want

I saw that kit on the 9 Lives website the other day. That setup looks great. Excited for when it is available.

Excited for the Nine Lives Racing splitter mount/ front aero stuff. I'm surprised it's taken the aftermarket so long to make something available. The fact that this stuff is DIY/ time-consuming is the main reason I haven't really done any aero upgrades.

Just read through the entire thread. I loved reading and watching all the progression.

I toyed around with starting my own racing diary. I am still in the early stages of HPDE1, but I have Watkins Glen coming up in Oct as my 2 and last even this fall.

Well, we're on revision....... 9 now :rofl: As it turns out, building an aero setup for your own car is much quicker than designing to the product for the masses. Who knew! (I'm joking)



Dang, that's a long read haha. I'd be happy if my journey can somehow help motivate yours.

So back from more front-aero testing at Road Atlanta with my car. We confirmed some improvements and also discovered more details to fix. We're still not completely happy with it yet, so additional revisions will be coming.


Besides the new splitter material my setup hasn't changed much. Same power, suspension/alignment, weight, but the tires were worn out with 28-32 heat-cycles through-out the weekend. I usually consider R7s done around 25 heat-cycles and I've had several cord by that point.






So the new material is better, much stiffer than the previous 8mm alupoly. You can even drill/tap this material! Major down-falls, it's heavier than alupoly or alumalite and it's not as stiff as birch. Some typical trade-offs on that, but we're still on the hunt for an improvement.

I installed and removed the setup via quick disconnect several times by myself. Though, it is much easier with two people! Once lined up, it slots in, somewhat wedges itself, and then you can run a pin or bolt/nut through the "lock" hole from the mouth of the airdam. Not too bad even for myself...... during my first attempts Johnny said "it's like watching a monkey fuck a football" :giggle:

Attachment 233814


The material was stout enough to have Johnny stand on it at the front near the main mounts. However, we needed to provision some additional bracing on the outside since we had too much flex on the ends. We also are needing to keep the additional bracing in a config to keep quick-disconnect capability. This bracing helped, but it didn't resolve the side flex issue. It actually pulled/flexed on the main mounts. We have additional ideas for side mounting that I think will resolve the problem. We're also not confirmed on the material yet either.

Attachment 233815




To everyone that we've talked to face to face, on FB, here, or where ever.. we greatly appreciate the interest and the feedback! We believe being open about our process also helps the end result!

Cool progress happening here, congrats on the great battles in GLTC. Looks like fun.

All abroad the k-hype-train!

Attachment 233813

In for BP partout! :laugh:

khoo-khoooo

Attachment 233812

Sub'd. Another K swap thread to keep track of.

So she'll be ready to go by K Miata day right? Riiiiiiight?

I'm aiming for GLTC at NCM, April 18/19...... hopefully?

Got some Tarmac88 love!

Attachment 233811

Got these 15x9.5 Konig Freeforms from Dan. Going to trade in a set of my 205/50/15 R7s for 225/45/15s. Should be a good amount of gripz.

Always gotta have a little bit of orange with my changes! Needed a 1.8 clutch, so I got a SPM 4-puck. I was surprised on the price and capacity on this thing. Also trying supporting Left Lane Designs with the fender vents.

Attachment 233810

Things are moving along nicely!

Attachment 233809

While I was getting bits and pieces together I found myself wanting to get spoon-fed. There wasn't a central post/page/etc to get all the details I needed. So I've started a spread-sheet for this.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Initially, it will have the listing of all the components, the prices I paid for them, and where I purchased them. Eventually, I hope to have additional pages with more details on variations, the install process, and performance results. We're(9LR) are even going to make a Kmiata compatible splitter kit. It should be a simple clearance on the back of it, but one less custom fab users need to do.


I'm really excited about this! I've dreamed about this swap ever since it was teased. I really appreciate David for answering all my random questions and dealing with my school-girl-giddiness during this whole process <3

Helll yeah

Sooo what do I do now?!

Attachment 233806

Attachment 233807


Also started on the Sadfab delrin bushing install
Attachment 233808

Now you just have to put the puzzle together!

butt stuff

That's a peculiar thing to say.

I think that's George's way of expressing his excitement of the project.

So this update will be long...... I've thrashed a few times since the last update. I'm also in the middle of moving, which adds to the fun right?

Big shout out and thanks to @alienmiata1 for coming over and helping me get the wiring and other odds n' ends together for this.



Starting off from where I left off, receiving a bunch of parts. I continued to order more parts! And as a reminder, I have a running spreadsheet with costs and extra bits I had to purchase for my version of the Kswap here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

There certainly are parts that I wish were in this kit, but each swap is going to be a little different than the next. I discussed this with David and I can see how it can be a nightmare logistically. I'll mention the parts I bought along with each picture here.


Getting the engine prepped and only ran into...... a few snags lol.

For anyone reading this that is beginning their kit or is planning on it....... buy this tool for your Hondabond: The tube WILL explode out the back and 1/3 of your Hondabond will land on the floor. Then you'll be sad like me...... don't be sad.


The oil jet on my block (2013 TSX) was not threaded, apparently, some are and some aren't :dunno:. I used the included m8x125 allen bolt with a tad of RTV on it..... it's not coming back out of there.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...adc4cb852.jpeg

Oil pump install was pretty straight forward. The pic doesn't include the pick-up tube. I ran into an issue with the bolt length for the pick-up tube bracket and baffle pan location, it was too short. It was a 10mm bolt, but needed at least a 15mm. Source a 15mm myself and it was good to go.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1369c5cba.jpeg

My dumbass ordered the wrong time-belt tensioner. The 2013 Accord =/= 2013 TSX for anyone wondering...... That delayed the progress by a week, basically.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2e2a9c89b.jpeg

Got the engine timed and also found a cool tip for K-series and setting timing. On the back of the head, there's a small hole for each cam, once you set each cam in its proper position you can put a dowel pin in the hole of the head and hole on the cam. I actually just used the chuck end of a drill-bit that was conveniently the same size as the holes.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8d359eeea8.jpg


Got the oil-pan installed, mine lined up surprisingly well. The only modification I had to do was a bit more clearance for the bolt-heads.

I thought all was moving smoothly..... tried to turn the engine by hand and THUNK...... it's not turning past about 90* from TDC. Set timing two other times, so at least I'm comfortable with that now, but no luck afterward. Went to the Kmiata FB page, 3 people instantly told me to check oil baffle-pan clearance I checked this once when I installed it, but it's difficult to see where it hits. It actually didn't contact until I put my oil-pan on as well..... maybe it's pressing down the pick-up tube?

Took oil-pan off and spun the engine. It now spins freely, but I can hear and feel it contact the baffle-pan. So I baffle-pan off and took a look at it. I was in a hurry while doing this, so no pics sorry. I saw where the rod bolts were hitting, took a dremel to it, and still hit. The baffle-pan isn't that thick so I wasn't comfortable grinding it down anymore. Put a washer underneath the long bolt at the oil-pump/pick-up tube, still hit a little. Put a washer at the pick-up tube bracket, spot...... still hit a little. So I put another washer on the long-bolt at the oil-pump and no more contact.

Ok, got that sorted, then I put the super duper fancy timing-chain cover on. This thing is ridiculously nice, almost feels out of place on my haggered-ass car. There's 3x m10 bolts, the long ones in the picture below, that aren't included. The cover might be ok without them, but I'll source some to put on anyways.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5f2530fc0.jpeg

Took the flap-disk to the side of the block to make room for the passenger side engine mount. Managed to get some pictures of this, oddly enough.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b5d00dd2b.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...11c7665e3.jpeg

Engine prepped and ready for the rest of drive-line modifications.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0083b7fa8d.jpg

So I got to the point of bolting the Kmiata flywheel, adapter plate, clutch, and tranmission together BUT....... I didn't have the flywheel bolts :facepalm: So pushed back another week on progress, but they came in and I did some work with friends.


It's worth noting..... don't mix up the bolts of bags Kmiata supplies. They have them separated on purpose lol. I was also surprised at how much angle the engine is in correlation to the transmission. Also, the usual orange sprinkled about my car.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b5d4998915.jpg


Modifying the 6spd to work. Taking off this plate was tougher than I thought it was going to be. I think I was just paranoid I'd damage the transmission. Also used a 2" hole saw to make clearance for the starter. Like others have done, I went too far back on bell-housing, but it's somewhat hard to gauge. I also could have done it a bit higher up on the bell-housing. It still clears the starter easily, though.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b9477e1749.jpg


Mocked it up, drilled the holes, then ran the lines. At this point, I realized I could have made the top hole further inward, not a deal-breaker but still a better route. Good news is..... after I got the engine physically in the line reached the clutch master cylinder without issue. Note, the Kmiata release bearing routes on the other side of the trans vs the 5spd release bearing.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6a46acce5f.jpg

I ground down the bottom of the transmission to help down-pipe clearance. I don't know if this was enough yet or not. I deferred to some other k24z3/6spd users and they said this should be enough.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c2454c6dd3.jpg

And yes, the down-pipe is oval-shaped ;)

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3360aa58ed.jpg

And then, wam bam thank ya mam.......
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9aac6a24a2.jpg

There are several different combos to get this engine into the car with the type of engine mounts it has. I still don't have the engine in 100% proper. It needs to tilt about 5* to the passenger side. I think part of that problem is the subframe is in the way around the oil-pan. I clearanced about 1/8" before putting the engine in, but it needs another 1/4" probably. The fit is SUPER tight at the steering rack, a tab on the rack ended up making quite a mark on the front of the oil-pan. I'll be bracing the engine as-is and dropping my sub-frame to shave off more on the sub-frame and to orient the engine properly onto the subframe. This honestly might be the best way to remove/re-install this setup..... from the bottom. I'll follow-up after I try that, though.

Update..... it runs! Big milestone on the project for me. I've got the alignment and tune-day scheduled now as well. I should be on track in Oct!





In other news, I got a new crash-bar to help with air-flow and eventually oil-cooler placement.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2c083cd325.jpg


I also upgraded my brake setup. Went with V8Roadster's ST42 Stoptech brake kit with the 11.75" PFC rotors. It's a super nice setup just from installation and it arrived sooner than initially planned!!! Side-note, PFC 11 pads are ~$175 for the 1.8 brakes, these use the DR22 pad and I got PFC 11s for $111 :party:I also have high hopes that these rotors will last me a long time too, lol.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9ac57ba6b8.jpg


In an attempt to help the balance, I went with sport rear rotors, still 1.8 calipers and PFC 11s. Using the FlowForce adapters that made it to me from Tarmac88 in a roundabout way(bought them from Midtenn)

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2baa942af0.jpg


It's worth mentioning Kmiata's EXCUSE ME K Power Industries' full exhaust system is super nice. It was a breeze to install and it's quieter than my old BP setup at least at idle and a blip to 2500rpm. My BP setup has an 18" resonator and Borla muffler, peaks at around 93dB. I think the size of the muffler on this setup is a big factor to the noise reduction. @alienmiata1 came over again and helped me get it started :D
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...23eb8cf40e.jpg



I had to redo the Hondabond job on the timing chain cover, I'm dumb and forgot to put some between the two pieces. I've got to extend some wires, clean up the wiring over-all, finish the coolant hoses, install the intake/iat, and then the usual engine swap checks/fixes. Getting really excited about this now!

Cats







Also









....bout time!

You think these will need an oil cooler? I saved mine from the BP just in case, but left it off for now.

Sweet. Awesome progress man.

Do you mind measuring the distance between the inside of the spoke on the 9.5" free forms to the face of your front caliper?

So many ideas floating around in my head for front brakes... STR42 11" Stoptech, the STR42 11.75" v8r or the STR43 11.75" setup. Not sure where it becomes overkill...


An oil cooler is never a bad idea as long as you have a proper thermostat to ensure it doesn't run too cool for some reason. I've seen stuff floating around on FB about oil temps in K swapped Miatas and the guys racing without coolers are a bit higher than I'd like. I've seen numbers like 240 to 270 range tossed around. The K swapped FWD Hondas I've seen running definitely need them, not sure why they seem to run hotter in those chassis. I know good synthetics can do just fine up to like the 280F range but I'd rather have my engine hanging out in that 230F range if possible.

I've settled on using an Improved Racing thermostatic sandwich plate with the 212F opening temp option and a small dual pass oil cooler mounted where the passenger headlight used to be.

270 was the coolest my turbo BP would ever get. :laugh: Guess I'll plan to mount mine eventually.


Doesn't ST5 penalize for big brake kits? I've been targeting 4 so I haven't worried about it, but I thought you lost some power for that in 5.

That's right, it's a -0.2 penalty. If I were building a max effort ST5 car I'd be using NB sport brakes since those are allowed via the update/backdate rule.

Yeah I'll grab that measurement for the ST42s and Freeforms. It's got quite a bit of distance iirc. I'm not really sure where the overkill is, but having a good brake setup is never a bad thing right? Less weight, should be less drag than OEM too, better pedal feel from less flex, cheaper pads, better pad wear, etc etc. I pondered on doing STR42s, they're stiffer and all, but the lead-time was longer on em too.

And yeah I'll be taking the -0.2 penalty on the brake mod. I think it's a silly mod for that class considering everything else that can be done. Brakes aren't a HUGE expense for that class/speed and it could be a safety item for some cars at that prep. Rules are rules though...... I would also try the NB sport brakes for a max effort ST5/TT5 formula.

I don't know if I'll need an oil cooler or not. Some other k24z3 track guys have seen pretty high oil temps like Aaron mentioned, though. I have plans to do a Setrab 19-row setup around the same time I put Mat's crash-bar on the car. Wanna get it all sorted, do a shake-down event, and see where those temps are to see how soon I need to put a cooler on it.

0.2 isn't bad. If you want some sport brakes ,you can have mine! I'm over them from running the great combination of high power, old street tires, and no aero at NCM and killing pads in less than a weekend

This is the route im going