Something more Imaginative?
 

I finally am started to gain focus on my rebuild so I figured at kick off a build thread.

I 'bought' the car from my father at age 15 when he acknowledged the proposed spec miata build was not likely. I decided to hop on the tuner bandwagon and turbo it at 17. The car then saw a minor rebuild at 18, but college, beer, and hipster single-speeds caused my mind to wander. The car , as a result, ended up sitting in my parents garage for the past 6 years. Nostalgia has set in prematurely and I've decided to get it back on the road.

The first build, circa 2002:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0031_large.jpg

The first rebuild (after I grew some taste), circa 2003:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0131_large.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_i...0071_large.jpg




Now, on to the current progress. Ironically, everything in the build is changing except (amazingly) the Greddy manifold. Stupid? Perhaps, but the manifold has barely moved (less than .01" over 6K) and I didn't realize that my turbo shit the bed until after I had ARTech fab a DP and exhaust ... oh well.

Cue the shit phone pics
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6994607_n.jpg

Engine bay, as it sit. The plan is to run the IC pipes over the radiator ... the path should be very short. Though I'm not convinced the Carbing brace is the god-like product it's made out to be, one cannot deny the quality of the welds and how pisser is looks in the bay.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...2&id=162101051

This shot shows a couple bits I've completely thus far. Smoothed Auto TB, M-Tuned rail, hard line fuel feed, water jetted IAC blocking plates:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6296406_n.jpg

I'm using a 30 degree elbow to quick the intake tract back up and over the Koyo rad:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8151835_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...4_170383_n.jpg

Close up of the M-tuned fuel rail. I used Earls hard coated fittings and tube nuts with an Aeromotive 5/16 nipple adapter to connect to the oem lines:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...9_978906_n.jpg

A shot of the radiator brackets to create clearance for the IC pipes. They're designed to keep to base of the radiator in a near OEM location to provide plenty of sway bar clearance - this simply tilts to radiator back
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5588073_n.jpg

I found a direct bolt in for the Greddy manifold on ebay. The vendor was nice enough to check the flange rubs I e-mailed him. He said it came with a VR4 'upgrade'. All I know is it's a mitsu turbo, the flanges bolt up, and yes ... it's water cooled.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6336193_n.jpg

A comparison. I'll be swapping over my polished Greddy housing and fabricating a WG bracket for my Forge WG. I've heard good and bad about the Forge WG, but it's adjustable, rebuild-able, looks pretty and I got it for next to nothing:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._5417220_n.jpg

I started mocking up my new AEM gauges. I decided to keep the gauges up high ... a little more work but worth it IMO:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7935639_n.jpg

The finished product. 10mm delrin, 2 3/8" and 2 1/16" forstner bits, a bridgeport, an hour of polishing = profit. I'll be using my AC button as my hazards switch:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3129654_n.jpg


They're angled at around 9 deg which provides a very clear few of the gauges at a glance:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8079612_n.jpg

Mild panic at first sight of box ... all well inside:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6973985_n.jpg

Beauty. ARTech goodies:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._2793483_n.jpg

I've got a lot of work ahead, hopefully pace will pick up come this fall and winter. I've got a MSPNP to install and tune, a mild wire tuck to complete, an m-tuned reroute to install, and some general maintenance.

Hopefully by next summer the 1.6 diff will be gone and the car will be sitting an a proper suspension and not 70k blown oem shocks.

-Zach

Wow, looks really awesome looking forward to more pictures.

love radiator mounts! its always nice to see such time taken to build a car right with that much attention to detail.

Great attention to detail! LOL at "bridgeporting" the console, looks great.

Clock the new turbo down a bit and you can free up some room for the intake and simplify your IC routing.

yeah, that's one detail I've been internally debating over. If I was running the IC piping under the radiator I would definitely clock it, however, since I'm going over the top I'll likely run a 90 deg silicon coupler.

-Zach

Don't give me too much credit ... I have access to a 'wood'/model shop, a machine shop, and a spray booth at work as well as all the vendor contacts I've made through the company ... it's a huge advantage when trying to do thing 'right' while keeping to a budget.

Also, the car is garaged a good hour from work and 40 minutes from my apartment so must of the work gets done piece by piece ... gauge console at work, throttle body and fuel rail at the apartment, etc. It let's me focus on each task and prevents me from becoming to anxious and just throwing the thing together. It also gives me time to think things over ... I've made a couple alterations to the plan for the better because of this.

-Zach

looks like it will be a good build :D

more AN fittings came today so I can make some more progress in that area. The plan is to run a set up similar to BEGI with braided lines from the block to a bracket mounted to the valve cover and then hard lines from there to the turbo.

I drilled and tapped the manifold for 10 mm studs tonight on the Bridgeport, however, we work at a pretty small scale (in terms of machining needs) at my company so I wasn't able to surface the flanges. I need to source I local shop to do this and then I can ship the parts out for c-coat and started bolting this thing back together.

The thread will be slow for the rest of the month as I'll be overseas for a bit enjoying my GF's company paid hotel room in Paris, but once I get back I plan to hit the car hard.

-Zach

welcome to the "over the radiator" club. i'm loving the brackets. keep up the good work.

Attachment 194508

minor update.

I've finished machining the intercooler bracket out of some .25" aluminum and had the some new couplers and the wastegate signal/IAT bungs welded onto the intercooler.

The IAT sensor is located at the very end of the intercooler path and since the distance of the cold side piping is very short (<20") and ALL silicon (meaning it's well insulated) I'm not too concerned.

I've got my DIYAUTO electric boost controller so I'm making a bracket for that.

The big debate now is whether I go VTA or recirculate. I prefer recirc simply because it's less obnoxious however, like budget racers image I have very little room on the cold side so it needs to go on the cold side of the intercooler or on the hot side. Decisions.


One question for the MS folk. I need a signal line for my AEM boost sensor and I was planning on mounting it next to my MSPNP and splitting the signal line to the MS. It keeps the line short and the sensor in a nice protected area - bad idea?

Photo updates soon.

-Zach

Very nice work on the gauge mounting. I don't think I've ever seen such a setup that was so cleanly DIYed.

[QUOTE=thasac;653796]I prefer recirc simply because it's less obnoxious however, like budget racers image I have very little room on the cold side so it needs to go on the cold side of the intercooler or on the hot side.[quote]If you have a loosely-sprung valve (such as a Greddy RS-style with the inner spring removed) and place an air filter on the exhaust, it's not terribly loud at all. A bit of a slight "whoosh" but nothing attention-grabbing.


Shouldn't be a problem. Since there is virtually zero flow through the line going to a boost gauge or MAP sensor, there will be essentially zero pressure drop across it. Thus, you can hang as many devices off of the line as you wish. I have one line going through the firewall which is teed off to three things- a mechanical boost/vac gauge, the MAP sensor for the WI system, and the MegaSquirt MAP sensor.

[QUOTE=Joe Perez;653820]Very nice work on the gauge mounting. I don't think I've ever seen such a setup that was so cleanly DIYed.

[QUOTE=thasac;653796]I prefer recirc simply because it's less obnoxious however, like budget racers image I have very little room on the cold side so it needs to go on the cold side of the intercooler or on the hot side.Thanks for the reply Joe.

I was leaning towards a VTA with filter hoping it would be subdued enough.

As for the boost signal - this is what I was envisioning. I'm happy to here it's a non-issue.

-Zach

Managed get some time in on the car yesterday.

I apologize for the pictures. I was working by candle light and with poor ISO on my camera and a lack of tripod there wasn't a lot I could do.

I've got the intercooler mounted and the cold side sorted out. The cold side was done with a 10" leg 90 degree elbow and a 30 degree 2.5" to 2.25" transition - vibrant coupler in between. I have enough clearence for a t-clamp, however, I ordered some gates 'heat shrink' clamps which I plan on using in an effort to save weight, look clean, and avoid potential chaffing. The IAT sensor is mounted on the coupler on the intercooler - maybe 18-22" upstream. As I said above, since the silicone is an insulator I'm not concerned with mounting the sensor upstream.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._7711832_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._6577246_n.jpg

Top view. The part I'm proudest of - NO MAJOR CUTTING. The only modifications to the unibody was ending the edge on the radiator support to a 90 and trimming some of the lip on the frame rail to clear the radiator tabs (see above). You can see below there's plenty of clearance between the radiator and support while I still have a ton of room for aftermarket sways/fans and the hood has a good 3/8" - .5" of clearance. Once everything is finalized I'll create some ABS ducting.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1308727_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...4_551190_n.jpg

I'm at a bit of a standstill in the engine bay until the Fed Ex man shows up with some parts so I started messing with the interior and installing/wiring my AEM gauges. I'm a wideband, boost, and water temp in center console. Surprisingly I didn't have to trim too much of the dash to fit the center gauge as they are pretty shallow. I plan on using the AC button on the HVAC panel to operate the hazards - more to come on that.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...7_358349_n.jpg

The Profec is going away since I'm using the MSPNP EBC (for sale, offers welcome ;) - need to fund some DW injectors). I'm also working on the cluster which is missing in the pic. I gutted the stock coolant temp gauge and mounted an LED shift light behind the check engine/airbag, etc. window on the cluster which perfect in terms of visibility.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1827500_n.jpg

More pics as they come.

-Zach

Been a while since I've updated.

I haven't made much progress under the hood as of late as I'm waiting for a couple pieces of the puzzle to arrive. I've got the hot side of the intercooler piping to still fabricate and once that's done the motors coming out for some freshening an a happy meal.

In the mean time, I finally got around to mounting the fancy Magic Racing mirrors I picked up before exchange rate went into the shitter.

I still need to counter sink the mounts some - I took a guess before I had the hardware. Try buying 4 pinned torx metric screws in the States. I ended paypal'ing a guy in Britain to mail me some.

IMO, it's like these mirrors were made for these cars. The 'softer' surfacing and proportions fits well the the car and the curvature of the lens provides ample viewing.

I apologize for the phone pics.

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._3566384_n.jpg

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...6_447650_n.jpg

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._1340472_n.jpg

-Zach

One baby step closer to the finish line - finished the hot side.

Time to pull the motor and get this engine bay done with.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1334321627

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1334321627

Over compensation - my BOV is a big as my turbo :giggle:

Also getting work done on the gauge cluster. The nickle is a placeholder for the LED shift light and the black rings will be LED dome lights for blinker/high beam and oil press/temp warning lights.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1334321627

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1334321627

Hope to have this crap heap on the road by end of August at this point.

-Zach

Stupid question:

If you have a variable TPS sensor, will unmodified MSpnp translate the sensor outputs as though it's a non-variable TPS or will it just tell you to f*ck off?

Even though it's a simple mod to the MS, I don't want to crack it open until I'm able to confirm it is fully operational from the vendor.

-Zach

No response? wha wha...


No pics but my CC took it's last big hit courtesy of FM and Trackspeed (can't wait to pay it off this month :facepalm:)

FM

-misc. seals and tools to install said seals
-FM happy meal, 10 pound flywheel w/ level 2 clutch (went overkill)
-exhaust brace
-8mm inconel studs for DP
-clutch line

Trackspeed

-10mm inconel stud kit

With the new hardware, my only failure point should be my ---- manifold cracking especially since I expect to be very slow around the track if and when that day comes ;)


Another question for the 1.6 folk: anyone know the threading of for the coolant feed on the side of the 1.6/GTX block? (the one above the oil feed greddy/FM uses).

-Zach

Until I find my Pana Lumix battery charger ... the ---- cell phone pics will continue (and yes, I'm hosting w/ Facebook :giggle:)


Since the car is garaged an hour away, I gotta make progress where and why I can. Tonight's project was to replace my deteriorated coolant tank. While the Moroso replacement is nice, I needed to stop the bleeding and I already had a universal Moroso tank on hand.

Turns out it fits perfectly onto the OEM fuse box bracket:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1335235372

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1335235372

Yes, the mounting looks like crack-city but the weight is primarily supported by 3m VHB ... the hardware is just along for the ride.

I realize I'm losing some fluid capacity but hopefully that won't be an issue with the added capacity of the radiator along with some competent ducting TBD.

Motor to come out this weekend and preparation for a 'bay respray, seals refresh, FM 'happy meal', and misc. sh_t.

-Zach

Finally got around to making the wastegate bracket.

I always hated the shitty canister which comes on the Greddy turbo. So when I saw a vendor off loading Forge wastegates for the MS Protege for <$70 ... I hit buy hoping I could make it work.

Turns out it fits perfect. I used .25" 6061 aluminum in an effort to limit bracket flex.

Now that everything is fitted, I can send the hot parts off to the ceramic coater.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1336007191

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1336007191

-Zach

Nice bracket! A lot of people get hung up on wastegate brackets, OEM brackets are stamped steel, hard to duplicate, and people get hung up on where to go from there. Flat sheet steel just bends.

In the mean time ...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1336007649

... the lower control arm bolts were total -----s. Hopefully the front clip will be completely repainted by mid May. All depends on how much life decides to get in the way.

-Zach

Thanks - the .25" aluminum cuts like butta' on the regular-ol-bandsaw so it was a bit of a no-brainer. I HATE screwing around with steel if I don't have to, particularly if it stainless. I didn't even consider it an option ;) .

I cut the inner section out with a 90 dollar Ryobi scroll saw :giggle: ... proof anyone with patience can do this.

-Zach

I think you may have Hornetball beat for cleanest Greddy-based install :rofl:

That bracket and WGA look great, like it was meant to be there! Any chance you would share the source on those? The threaded section would be super easy to extend and adapt to other units. Any reason it wouldn't work with a Garrett & custom bracket?

Keep up the good work!

I bought it from Street Unit about 2 years ago.

Their price is back up: http://http://www.streetunit.com/Forge_Adjustable_Wastegate_Acutator_MSP_p/fmacmsp.htm

Here's the forge website: http://www.forgemotorsport.com/conte...3&catalog=0001

160 list price ... ouch.
-zach

Well, I wasn't going to let another summer pass without a running/driving miata.

So, instead of being manly and finishing my turbo bucket I just bought another :giggle:

'96, all original, 70k, originally a florida car, always garaged, etc.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1338864393

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1338864393

Not gonna lie, after driving this thing I wish I just threw a '99 block with a shaved head and a MS into my '90 and spent the rest of my $$$$ on ASTs. Le sigh ... live and learn.

-Zach

Well, after a summer of distractions the cooler weather is rolling back in so it's time to make progress.

I threw the engine on a stand, stripped of all the accessories, degreased it (man, a leaking CAS and cam seal can sure make a mess), and started replacing all the critical seals.

My 1.6 stares in envy (now that I own a 1.8, I really wish I started this project with one).

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1347294758

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1347294758

Can anyone recommend a good aftermarket rebuilt alternator? The bearings in mine are on their way out.

Also, since I've had 2 OEM regulators fail on me, I'm thinking of upgrading to an aeromotive. This leads to another question, has anyone ran one of these with a M-Tuned rail? I really don't want to drill and tap my rail at this point and the o-ring should be OEM robust.

-Zach

I've been doing some gauge cluster work to cure winter boredom - more detailed pics once I finish designing the gauge faces in Ai (Adobe Illustrator for you non-creatives).

Shitty phone pic alert:
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364835127
without the shift light trim ring:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364835127

I moved the oil pressure gauge to the water temp spot and ran lead wires from power and signal (the ground lines up with the flex circuit).

LEDs are left overs from a medical marijuana vaporizer project at work :idea: (10v Dialight 249 for those interested). The two amber lights will be wired at some point down the road for oil/water temp warning lamps.

I also embedded my raptor shift light into the area once populated by all the OEM warning lamps.

Gauge rings are black ano aluminum from RS Refine (group buy on CR).

I'm also designing matching gauge faces for my AEM gauges in the center console.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1364835127



Hopefully the snow will be melted this week and I can paint the engine bay and started bolting things back together. It's only taken me 3 years to get this far. :facepalm:

Where in the hell do you work? :rofl:

I really like those rings, I may have to see if I can find them on CR. Did you print those faces? Are they going to be UV stable? Nice work!

"Where in the hell do you work?"

I'm an industrial designer for a medical development consultancy. The variety of projects we get is rather ... interesting.

"I really like those rings, I may have to see if I can find them on CR"

I've got a set in my DD '96 (polished aluminum though). I might let them go for the right price.

"Are they going to be UV stable?"

They're just test prints right now. I was going to take the Revlimiter approach which is listed on his website. I might have custom dry transfer decals made instead and apply them to thin styrene ... not sure yet. I need to do some testing.

-Zach

The weather has been tolerable as of late (not 20 degrees, not 80% humidity, i.e., it's May/June). As a result, progress has been good and it looks like the car will finally come together this year.

The engine was degreased, painted, WP and timing belt replaced with new oil seals.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1371433282

Started the coolant reroute. Waiting for my custom hardline to be welded up. I don't know why you guys say these reroutes are so hard ... plenty of working room :giggle:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1371433282


While I wait for the hot parts to get ceramic coated, I decided to finally address the engine bay (with some much needed assistance from my father whos painted far more cars than I).

Base/clear classic red. The wheel wells, chassis, and trans tunnel received SEM rust shield via a foam roller - came out tits.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1371433282

...and shit going back in. I have way too many hours restoring the headlamp assemblies. Also added DEI head shielding to the trans tunnel to hopefully fend off future calf burns.

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...08667942_n.jpg

I've created a new alternator bracket using 8mm aurora rod ends and buttoned up the engine. More proper pics to come.

-Zach

Well, after many years of dragging ass the car is hopefully a month or so away from running (notice I left out 'driving'). I've also become an adult and started hosting my images on imgur.com AND bought a CanonS100 AND leveled my images in PS. Crispy crisp.

Anyway

I took my hot parts to get cerakoted last week and in the mean time I bit the bullet and bought some ebay COPs. Since my camcover was already powdercoated I took the low impact approach to COPs mounting - stainless m5 male/female standoffs from M-Carr with some .180" ABS plastic spacers between the COP housing and the COP seal (bonded with RTV).

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373927327

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373927327

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373927327

And some bling while it's still shiny (debating going the powdercoat route).

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1373927327


Also, MODS - feel free to change the thread title as it sucks.

-Zach

You've been around long enough to know better than to say things like this... :eek4dance

Good progress, better than my stockmobile. Did you tap directly into the cover for the standoffs, and are these .180" plastic spacers homebrew, or are they some sort of premade ring? Because it came out incredibly clean.

I tapped the camcover for the standoffs, then jb-welded the threads and RTV'd the backside of the standoff (since it was through drilled) ... I don't see oil working its way through, especially since 2 off the standoffs are behind the sheetmetal plate so it won't see any oil sloshing.

McMaster-Carr

The spacers/rings are home brew. Just some sheet stock ABS, Rigid holesaws/drill, and some file work over a beer.

NPT/AN fittings and COP pigtails came in this morning ... time to slap this b*tch back on the head.

Now that my OEM water neck is gonzo, my plans are to fab up a custom breather set up which mounts to the front of the engine using the two unused bolt threads on the cam cover ... blur your eyes an imagine (added bonus: I only need to buy 2 feet of -8an PTFE hose).

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1374164761

Hot parts should be back from the coater tomorrow and then the engine gets dropped back in. Woot-woot.

-Zach

Wired. I just need to test continuity one more time while on the bench.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1374774170

It's been a good day - finished the COPs harness, got my summit shipment, AND the powdercoater called saying the parts were ceramic coated and ready to pick up. Engine in by the end of the month? Maybe!

The million hour/dollar Greddy build continues :party:

-Zach

clean, brah!

Damn... i would rather buy a COP setup from you, than anywhere else ive seen. SOOOOOOO clean! awesome job!

Thanks brah ... so Brainy, can you change my title to something more imaginative? I give you full creative freedom.

As far as making the harnesses for others ... no thanks. It's fiddly work (and not in a fun way). If I were to do it again I would pony up for a crimper so I could avoid pigtail connectors ... live and learn. Hopefully my splices hold up.

-Zach

NP, i got you, bro.

That'll suffice.

-Zach

Man I can remember when my interior was that clean... Right when I bought it..

While a stock 99 is a helluva lot faster than a stock 1.6... both are like are laughably slow compared to any turbo.

This is true. My comment was made in a moment of depression ... when I was completely frustrated by the rebuild.

After driving a bone stock '96 for the past year I am desperately wanting my turbo miata back ... badly.

-Zach

lol this thread is great. Good build!

Got my hot parts back from the powder coat shop. I had them coated with Cerakote's high temp tungsten coating. I doubt it will offer much of a thermal benefit, however, it supposedly is a good rust inhibitor which makes it worthwhile (to me).

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1374860330

I also noticed a bunch of image links are dead so I've uploaded the old ones I was able to located on my HD to my IMGUR album here:

http://thasac.imgur.com/all/

I also scored a baller Stage8 10mm manifold 'kit' of amazon for <$20. Now every joint on my exhaust is either stage8 fastened with inconel studs (except for the OEM exhaust studs) or v-band ... I'm hoping my failure points have been minimized.

-Zach

Looks sexy for a greddy!

To quote Hornetball: "lipstick on a pig"

I'd rather kiss a pig with lipstick than no lipstick! ;)

Because I'm no longer 18 and cannot justify driving an EZ-bake oven.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375378071

Overkill? A bit. I had the downpipe coated with a Cerakote 2000 deg 'tungsten' coating. I do not expect any significant thermal benefits from the coating, however, according to what I've read it should fend off oxidation (important to me since the DP flange isn't SS). DEI header wrap and a cool-tec clamp on shield.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1375378071

Here's a close up of the Cerakote (ignore the warm hues - it's the halogen lighting reflecting on the finish). For the New Englands bros: I used sr Powder Coating NH in Bow, NH. The owner Chris is a nice guy to deal with and prices things fairly. I believe MightyMouse used him for his hot parts and some mics. powder coat.

In other news: The manifold/turbo are mounted up and the engine is ready to get cozy with the chassis again ... more pics to come when I can get better lighting for photoz ... my BA in fine arts would not allow for low light iphotography.

-Zach

Business trip photo dump! Got some work done this week.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376282593
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376282593
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376282593
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376282593
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376282593

More!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376282912
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376282912
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376282912

More!!! (Can you tell I like the Canon s100?)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376283500
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376283500
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376283500
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376283500
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376283500
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376283500
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376283500
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376283500

So after making good progress on the '90, some drunk decided it would be fun to walk on the hood of my '96 (pics of damage to come).

Holy shit... You are doing it right! Fine piece of work.

Thanks man.

I'm trying hard to do it rightish (I add the 'ish' because 1.6).

Big goal at this point is to get the engine/trans in by next week. Then wiring (cringe). Then bushing removal (double cringe). Then tuning/troubleshoot (part out?).

-Zach

except for the 1.6L and Greddy kit.

:brain:

:dealwithit:

:fawk:

:vash2:

:bowrofl:

It was new (better) turbo setup or Tein Monoflex (no ASTs at the time). I choose suspension. To be fair to the Greddy, aside from the awful spool the manifold has at least been pretty robust.

You are really taking care of your car and have a super clean build! I wish I could commit to that level of detail on mine right now.

Even riding on my shitty koni yellows, I have a hard time rationalizing paying for an upgrade to Teins or anything other than Xidas despite the car being mostly street duty. What made you choose the Monoflex?

A) I picked up a low mileage set from a member here for 1,200 bucks shipped.
B) At the time, AST/Xidas had yet to become the gospel
C) I was on stock suspension so I was simply looking for 'better' and not "the best'.
D) I do not prescribe to buying whatever this forum deems the best. Not because they aren't right, but rather its not in my budget and/or needs.

Drive another miata that isn't on the worst shocks ever developed for a miata and you'll change your mind quick.

and yes, I'm even including ricelands in the list.

Even KYB AGX? :giggle:

I bought into that hype and quickly hit the 'sell sell sell' button.

-Zach