Awesome, that is exactly what I thought. Thanks for the info!
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I'm also an industrial designer! PM'd you
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OK surfed through your student portfolio...wow. Very impressive work man. Thank you for the good work on the Aircast Boot too...I've worn those too many times in my life.
Man that fuel rail setup is clean...I need to look at mine again, it is a jumble of hoses and T-connections. |
Originally Posted by Jeffbucc
(Post 1106314)
Man that fuel rail setup is clean...I need to look at mine again, it is a jumble of hoses and T-connections.
-Zach |
Originally Posted by thasac
(Post 1106359)
If I were to do it again (which I might) I would probably use PTFE hose for the feed instead of the hardline ... vibrations+aluminum makes me a bit nervous. I'll run it on the street like this, however, if I ever get serious about track time I'll change it for ease of mind.
-Zach |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1106362)
You could have run stainless hardline. Stainless AN line is nice that a single flare is strong enough in most cases where aluminum probably always needs a double flare.
Double flare? Seems like a lot of the small aircraft builds are running single flare aluminum lines, though, maybe those suggesting it online are the ones whom end up scattered about a field on the evening news. -Zach |
Single flare is probably fine for normal fuel pressures maybe.
Did you make your bends with a bender? When I made my oil line with stainless and the harbor freight bender I didnt find it to be all that hateful, I just made sure to use a ton of oil on the die. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1106425)
Single flare is probably fine for normal fuel pressures maybe.
Did you make your bends with a bender? When I made my oil line with stainless and the harbor freight bender I didnt find it to be all that hateful, I just made sure to use a ton of oil on the die. -Zach |
Back in 2011 VW did a recall on TDI's due to vibration cracking the aluminum high pressure fuel pump injector lines. The solution for them was rubber blocks that go between each hardline and valve cover. No one has had any issues since they "fixed" the issue.
Could be cheap insurance for a lot less work and time spent bending S.S. lines. Just a thought for yah. |
Wow. I assumed those hardlines were SS. I would NOT run aluminum hard lines directly on an engine. Especially on the street where you make get lots of cycles. Fatigue.
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7 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1106494)
Wow. I assumed those hardlines were SS. I would NOT run aluminum hard lines directly on an engine. Especially on the street where you make get lots of cycles. Fatigue.
In other news, my 949 shipment came. When the box says 'racing' you know it's good. Items purchased: RB .188" bar, 949 endlinks (which are nice BTW), and a Wilwood bias adjuster. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1393598983 Just in case, I installed grease fittings on the the sway bar mounting brackets (yes, I drilled a through hole in the poly bushing). https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1393598983 And I finished up my part on the breather tank and will be taking it over to my beloved welder, John, today (who does all of Killer-B's oil pans - great guy). https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1393598983 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1393598983 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1393598983 Lightened and painted the mounting bracket. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1393598983 ...and, since designers don't to CAD drawings, the welder gets a pretty colored picture instead. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1393598983 Now I'm just waiting for it to NOT be 9 degrees outside. -Zach |
Thats a cool 21st century napkin drawing.
The RB bushings, dont forget to sand those fuckers so they're even with the brackets. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1107239)
Thats a cool 21st century napkin drawing.
The RB bushings, dont forget to sand those fuckers so they're even with the brackets. -Zach |
The HF belt sander took em down in mere moments. Way better than using washers like I did with the previous bar.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1107239)
The RB bushings, dont forget to sand those fuckers so they're even with the brackets.
Learn me please. What's this about? |
Jesus christ that work is perfection. Mad props.
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Originally Posted by hornetball
(Post 1107284)
??
Learn me please. What's this about? |
Oh, gotcha'. Knew about that one.
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As I near first start-up, I'm beginning to start the check list. A couple questions:
A) Is there a calculator for setting the base pressure of a 1:1 regulator for non-OEM injectors? I'm running 650cc EV-14's with a 190 pump and an Aeromotive 1:1 adjustable FPR. I know the OEM FPR is roughly 43-45 @ atmosphere but that's with 19Xcc (?) injectors. I know this involves some simple math but I doez not compute and cannot find the equation. B) Is the non-AFM base map for the MSPNP-1 safe to run with an OPEN wastegate? DIY states the map is scaled for boost so I suspect I will be safe. I should note that I would simply be peg legging to car to my personal garage on the base map. C) Is there an MT approved install for the LC-1 on a 1.6 miata? I've searched the shit out of this subject and I've read mixed suggestions. My current working assumption is to ground at the OEM point under the brake booster, es bueno? D) Poly bushings - worth it? I'm a week away from painting and installing all my front end suspension bits and now would be the perfect time to install poly bushings. This said, my OEM bushings still look good and I'd rather put the money towards a Kirkey seat or door bars or beer :burncash:. So, for a street/non-competitive track car -is it worth it? Thanks in advance for any feedback. Love you guys :love: -Zach |
For A, the stock regulator will give you the rated output of your injectors since most injectors are rated at ~44psi base pressure. And as long as it isnt broken it will always give that pressure differential unless your fuel pump doesnt flow enough.
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