miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

How happy are you with the stiffness of the hood?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I need some vinyl cut that says no sitting or leaning. But otherwise it seems fine. I havent driven it of course. And I stupidly cutoff the section of hood that the outer bumpers hit on so I need to add something for that, probably just make the bumpers longer. But it seems fine so far.

FrankL

While that is cool setup I can't help but think you doubled the necessary weight of adding power steering to your car, to make it not belt driven like OEM.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Have you seen where the turbo is? When I designed this manifold I didnt think power steering was going to be needed/wanted. I was wrong. And this way I get to avoid that POS known as the stock miata power steering pump.

FrankL

Well, the engineering expert that you are could have re-engineered the manifold. I guess the stock power steering pumps fail at large rates too? lol

this post seems like i'm being an @$$ but i'm just trying to have internet humor.

edit: Guess that is one plus for the stock MSM setup, it works with the stock power steering.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Lol. The stock pumps start making angry noises after 1 year with 275s based on the csp car experiences, and we had to machine some custom parts to get lines connected to the stock pump that wont burst when dealing with 275s. This required custom parts, but only welding and driving to the hydraulic shop to get a hose made for $65. I'm just hoping the volvo harness gets here this weekend so I can wire it and have it working this weekend.

FrankL

Really? We are going on 3 years now of the stock pump and lines with the cooler deleted with no problems. And we're not using pull of 275s either. No hose problems, no pump problems. Maybe they updated them by '05.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I know the csp car has an NB pump and lines. It never blew a hose but we had enough local csp cars blowing hoses before they bought it that we made some super sauce hoses for extra cooling so that it would stop blowing hoses. Even after it was first put in the car would come back to grid moaning and groaning after a run, and I believe now it pretty much moans and groans constantly. Maybe the MSM got different lines and pump.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

I will post a pic of my hood after it is done. I had a different strategy.

As far as the power steering pump, I think it is a pretty good idea. I think the elimination of parasitic loss outweighs the additional weight.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Well there's probably more parasitic loss since its still powered by the alternator, and the alternator + electric pump motor are probably less efficient than just the belt driven pump. AND I'm running the pump at full speed all the time currently. The Volvo pump is controlled by canbus, so changing the speed of the pump requires knowledge of canbus that I dont have. Full speed is good enough for me, eventually I'll add a switch it for street driving and manually just cut power to it on the highway.

FrankL

I don't think a "high hp" turbo miata is worried about parasitic drag of the power steering. If that's what the goal was, best to just delete it.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

No not at all worried about the drag. Its just going to have 1950's caddy like power assist at highway speeds.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

That is not true. We drag racers use electric water pumps for one reason only, the increased power.

Obviously. We all know that is not the goal, but an added benefit.

Does it really matter how much power you are making to not worry about losing power to parasitic loss or by any other means?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

sweet, my cars in the Speedway Motors solo nats video twice. at around 1:00 and 3:48

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Quick update, my photo upload has frozen so there'll be pictures later I had satanic steering for a bit, because I swapped the rack hardlines. I thought they only fit one way, I was wrong, it was silly. Its fixed now.

So new list
Things left to buy in order to race march 30th (lol like the snow will be melted by then)
"nothing"

Things that need to happen
power steering wiring, just have to connect the hot wire to the battery permanently
design and make a new splitter, just need to do the air dam part now
align car
make a working crank case vent setup, just have to make the bracket and intake tube

Optional
corner weight car
buy another set of takeoff hoosiers
wash exterior
canards
make new and improved intake tube, in progress just need to add the slashcut
hood prop
do the correct crank case vent setup, in progress just need to add the slashcut
Wire headlights

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Update with pictures.

Headlights mounted.


Splitter mount testing. Its a bit sloppy, should be fine once the air dam is mounted and the splitter is loaded.


mmmm stainless


getting there.


Dafqu did I break off a 1/2" drill bit in aluminum?


What the?


Fixed it


Shitty looking welds on the inside of the catch can, the nasty ones are from before I started using the gas lens.


The splitter gel coat is done. So to finish that up I need to put the front mounts on it and put the air dam on it. I bought an evo 16 cell so when that comes I'll finish the power steering pump wiring. Then I need to align the car and take it for the first test drive.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Um errr ahh. I thought the drivers side lower rear control arm that I got from Treasurecoast was bent so I cut the bolt that was fused to my stock one and swapped out the ripped up bushings from the old arm for the nice ones in the new bent arm. It was bent but the car still ended up with about 1/2" of toe out with the toe adjusters maxed in and seems a little bound when I put it back together. It looks like the upright I also got from them was bent. I'm hoping then send me another one ASAP, else I'll be picking one up locally mid week that has one of the brake caliper tabs broken off that I'll just have to weld back on. Fark. At the absolute worst I might be able to use the tig to heat up the knuckle enough to get bend it straight, I really need a torch. BUT on the bright side I fixed my leaking clutch line that I didnt know was leaking and I have a 3 pound battery in the car held down with a sweet welded bracket. My plan is to finish the splitter tomorrow and disassemble the drivers rear so next saturday I can just swap the bearing into the new knuckle put it back together, drop the car back onto the boxes, set the string up for one side and align that one wheel. And while its up there, do the swaybar pre-load that I keep forgetting about. Then go see if the car drives right, and have to bleed the brakes for a 3rd time because ABS.

So new list
Things left to buy in order to race march 30th (lol like the snow will be melted by then)
"nothing"

Things that need to happen
design and make a new splitter, just need to do the air dam part now
align car (done except for the drivers rear)
Remove swaybar pre-load

Optional
corner weight car
buy another set of takeoff hoosiers
wash exterior
canards
hood prop
Wire headlights

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

turns out it wasnt the lower control arm it was the upright. They're sending me a new one. I also realized I have the dumb and set the car to minimum caster. But now I need to decide, do I want to stick with 3.3° of camber and 3.5° of caster or re-string the whole car and go to 2.8° of camber and ~5.5° of caster. 3.5° of caster is what I was running last year but with only 2.8° of camber. I think I'm going to stick with this out of lazyness. Its also looking like 40's and pouring rain for the first event, and only one other car signed up for the class, so I think I'm going to save the life in the slicks and just run the rs3s. I'll probably still bring the slicks, just in case.

Lets see what I got done last weekend. The dufanator is in





I realized I have a **** load of hoses in the car.


I took an overall shot of the engine bay


The super light battery is mounted




I got the splitter "done" It still needs tire spats and canards






This saturday I need to put the new wheel bearing in the new upright that should get to my house thursday, put the suspension back together, string the drivers side back up, align it, test drive the thing finally. And maybe make tire spats. I think for the hood prop I'm just going to use those gas piston thingies because they're lightish, cheap, and easy to deal with, might do that this saturday. Then pick out tools, load the car on the trailer and go to bed.

So new list
Things left to buy in order to race march 30th (lol like the snow will be melted by then)
"nothing"

Things that need to happen
align car (done except for the drivers rear)
Remove swaybar pre-load

Optional
corner weight car
buy another set of takeoff hoosiers
wash exterior
canards
hood prop
Wire headlights
Tire spats

thasac

iTrader: (3)

...those f_cking lines.

I'm not even succumbing to visual ocd, but rather, questioning why you have lines running over your exhaust manifold. Come on, man!

-Zach

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

There's only 1 running over the top of it that isnt related to the turbo, and there was no other way to run the valve cover vent. Its still way better than last years.