To SSM Ahead of Schedule
 

So figure I should make one of these since serious progress will be made soon, and so I can get abused some more.

I was originally planning to keep this car in STR for another year or two while I saved up money paid back some student loans, bought a truck and trailer, ect but comparing the cost of building a to spec engine for STR vs building an engine for boost, it was cheaper to build for boost (yeah that makes sense). So here I am.

Current mods in no particular order
Kirkey economy 20deg layback racing seat with custom memory foam padding
Racing beat NA front Race bar with custom spherical endlinks
Xida Club Sport coilovers with 650/400 springs, helper springs and NB tophats
15x9 6UL wheels
225x45-15 Hankook RS3's
Parts store ceramics front/EBC Redstuff rear pads, parts store rotors, ATE Superblue
26" long custom aluminum intake with maf and cold air box
Bosch 044 pump
M-Tuned rail, stock fpr delete, AEM fpr
Custom pnp Toyota COPs
DDM tuning single din adapter (no gauges my drill it or just order one with gagues)
Pioneer something or other head unit that retails for like 300
Kicker 65watt speakers in the doors (because they were the lightest decent ones I could find)
8.912 MHz Crystal mod

Parts on order/in the mail/on the shelf
TSE built for boost VVT engine standard setup + supertech valve springs and welded in oil pan bung
Goodwin Racing carbon/carbon/carbon clutch
Supermiata long clutch line
DIY reroute with BEGi and GM truck parts
TSE AEM EMS4 + AEM wideband + trigger wheel
Prosport boost gauge
Prosport Fuel pressure gauge (for testing only)
Prosport volt gauge (if I can find a spot for it)
90 Dash, re foamed and extra hvac sealing (for clean airbag deleteness)
ebay hub and QR, Grant 12.5" steering wheel, custom 3 bolt to 6 bolt adapter.
Aeroquip firesleeve
99 intake mani
AWR 70 duro mounts
anything I forgot

Parts in the works for Decemberish
BW EFR 6258
Custom tubular low mount manifold
Custom 3" down pipe
Custom 3" 20ga stainless downpipe back exhaust with mid mounted muffler, v band connection to muffler and to rear section (and turn down option for race day), currently undecided for muffler between custom, burns stainless, or hushpower II (or hushpower dBx if I can fit it)
Custom rear exhaust section w/drivers side exit, turn down, again muffler undecided. Either custom, some magnaflow, or hushpower dBx
Manifold and downpipe will the internally and externally ceramic coated, possibly even have the entire exhaust done depending on price. Turbine housing may also be ceramiced inside and out pending BW engineering support
IC (undecided on make and size), with low inlet and over the rad outlet
Dynotuned to 200ftlb of torque, flat held till 6500, then tapered off keeping max hp to 250 (aka the super 5 speed saver tune) With linear throttle position to power relationship
Under car spare relocate
stuff I'm not thinking of right now

Stuff approximately Marchish
Custom vacuformed plastic front fenders (complete fenders) to fit 275 hoosiers on 15x10 6UL
Very pulled rear fenders to fit the same
Plywood splitter which extends 6 inches past the front body work and goes as far back as the center line of the front wheels + air damn
Radiator and ic ducting
Custom dual element rear wing
2 sets of 15x10 6UL with 275 Hoosier A6
Custom rear tow bar + receiver
Custom tear drop trailer designed to fit 2 sets of mounted 275 and 1 set of rains, also to sleep in.
A 10deg layback kirkey and move the 20deg layback drivers seat to the passenger seat.
All new hubs repacked with AMSOil and ART long studs
***Custom billet (or forged) 5 speed gear set and miata roadster long short shifter*** Very maybe

Random in the mean time stuff
Replace cracked coolant overflow
Install baby teeth
Switch to NA6 style seat buckles
949 solid upper shock mounts
Delrin diff mounts
EVO2 12 cell battery

In the far and away
NB front subframe
Power steering w/electric pump
Custom intake manifold
Head porting
Cams
fixing things I didnt like about the first build
Side by side rad and IC setup
OS Geiken diff
New springs like 900/550 and getting a rear bar back on the car
double or triple adjustable AST
Delrin bushings every where
Custom tubular steel or billet aluminum control arms (may switch to all spherical setup)
removed soft top
Rear bumper diffuser setup (push the limit of the rules)
DAQ, AQ1 + shock pots + accelerometers + GPS
15x9 6UL + hooseris H2O
Billet 5 speed gears (they're coming eventually)
Re-tuned to hold 300ftlb flat as high into the revs as the turbo will flow it

Now you can see some pictures.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345044542
When the new top went on: Stock + big front bar

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345044542
10 pounds of alarm wiring and amp wiring I pulled from the car

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345044542
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345044542
Just installed the xidas and 6uls

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345044542
Intake

http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...6-17175558.jpg
Pretty much as it sits. Its got more cone marks and AST and 949 racing decals now. And the stupid SPS stickers are off.

Quite ambitious....seems like with the parts your buying the goal of a flat 200wtq should be pretty easy to achieve.

Best of luck!

Yeah, and it will only stay that way until I get parts into a 5 speed that wont break at above those levels. If I trailered the car to events I would push it harder than that.

More race photos, courtesy of eddy savage. These are from saturday.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1345503021

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8423/7...c19012a6_o.jpg

odd double post

So the engine is still at the machine shop, my patch harness still isnt done. I understand how lead times actually work in the rest of the world so I'm not mad quite yet but we're approaching double the estimated lead time.

Ordered the supermiata damper. Cant wait to get that.

Got the wheel installed with no QR because a standard length hub + 3.5" dish wheel + a QR = steeringwheel in your chest. I then managed to crack the hub, 12 bucks on ebay, go figure. I also ordered and received a joes racing 1" dish 13" diameter wheel. Got to go grab some black hockey tape and wrap it so I dont break a finger off by sticking it in one of the holes in the rim. Ordered an NGR slim hub as well, 10 times the price of the ebay brand one...

The Joes racing wheel uses a 3 bolt pattern just like the Grand wheel, except its not clocked funny so I need to machine a new adapter, plan on doing that tomorrow afternoon. And hopefully I'll get the wheel, QR and new up in on Thursday when they show up.

Good ol' Worcester ... what's your address? (need wheels ;) )

-Zach

Its not parked on the street. :loser:

Would be interested to see the steering wheel stuff.

Will do. I just got the wheel installed today san horn button and grip. I have no idea when the horn button is getting here. I couldn't find an actual horn button that would fit in this wheel so instead I ordered a 19mm all metal momentary switch from hong kong. Grip wise I am going to go to dicks after work and get a couple rolls of baseball bat grip and a roll of hockey tape. I'll try the baseball grip first and if I dont like it I'll pull it and put the hockey tape.

I would have taken a picture but I put it in just before going to the gym and I just got out so its too dark to take a decent picture. I'll take some tomorrow before and after I grip it.

Notes on parts. The Joes racing wheel is amazing, its stupidly light, and does not flex at all. The NRG slim hub is significantly better made than the ebay one (it had better be for 10 times the price) only down side is that you need to trim the plastic around the stalk for it to fit right. I didn't realize it till after so my plastics are kind smooshed. I'll fix it when I swap the dash. Now the ebay QR. I'm replacing this crap asap, the people who said its fine are jackasses. Its got no play when theres no wheel on it and its not in a car, but once in the car you can rock it back and forth quite a bit, like a normal splined QR, no play in the steering direction though. Also the stupid ring for the QR doesnt clean the bolts between the QR and the hub. RAGE. Time to try and find a NRG 2.5 for cheap.

On another note my brake bias valve just shipped from flyin miata.

Got it wrapped. Ended up going with tennis over wrap. The baseball bat wrap had this weird pad only in the middle so it would have been ribbed looking. I couldnt find hockey tape for some reason even though there was some hockey stuff. It too just under 4 rackets worth of wrap to do the wheel and I'm not completely happy with how it came out. I'll get a picture of my adapter I machined when I have to pull the wheel off to put the horn button in.

I dont often take picture while I work on my car, but when it do I do it with a cell phone.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1346970494

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1346970494

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1346970494

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1346970494

Its so grippy its just silly. And yes I bought white, its going to get dirty instantly. It was the only color they had in the big roll. I really wanted pink or lime green but you could only get those in a mixed pack.

Order some online. They got whatever colors you want. Check Amazon too, Amazon Prime has that free 2 day shipping that makes it really convenient.

Cool. I just called andrew at trackspeed. Guess there was a huge backlog at their machine shop. Its going put way back. But that puts it to the point that I wont get it in at all for this season. And also times it just right that I might be able to snag a miata tranny with the quaife wide ratio set already in it for 2500 bucks. Waiting to hear from the seller to make sure it didnt get sold, then I'll just need to coordinate it getting picked up by someone already at nationals.

So I just bought a 06 WRX wagon, its already on konis with lowering springs designed for a wagon, sway bars and endlinks, short throwshifter, and a cat back that has some muffler that's made by some guy in mass that costs like 500 bucks but sounds perfect. And some team black wheels with old RE01Rs Going to try and kill those by mid summer next years so I can get the New star spec II's on it for summers. Also came with the stock wheels with decent all seasons. I already have the tactrix cable for it, hehe. The good side of this is now I dont need to rush anything on the miata.

Also changed the oil on the miata and replaced the window guides. I also removed the factory vapor barrier and gorilla snot and replaced it with a thicker vinyl barrier that seals it much better. Speakers are louder and now need to be re-tuned because the mid and bass is much more powerful.

Hey look we're twins!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1347206582

I don't know if a NA miata will ever be nationally competitive in STR. As the class gets older the s2k and NC owners will continue to push the meaning of prepared for the class. Almost like the NA miatas have done in STS.

I will also say after watching a friend(TNTUBA) take his car to nationally prepped SSM, that I don't think I ever will try it myself :rofl:. Keep in mind his car is FAST and place 4th at Nationals this year.

If you weren't 234894 miles away I'd ask you what you were doing with that NA 1.8. And....... that steering wheel isn't ST* legal, :giggle:

Good luck with your build, I'll be watching it for sure :)

^^^Finished 4th but coned away 2nd^^^ :(

If you get serious about SSM let me know. I'll help you all I can.

Well it also looks like since it didnt rain worthy of rain tires for the CSP heat that I'm going to have the ability to run some 275 hoho's on 15x9 6ULs. I plan on just removing the front fenders and replacing them with a strip of tape for this event but for the rear I'm hoping to borrow a fender roller and roll+pull the scrotum out of the rear fenders to make them fit. Any suggestions on doing this? Can I get that much pull with a legit fender roller or am I going to have to result to some "interesting" methods. I've seen NA rears pulled to fit 275 on 15x10 6UL so on the narrower wheel it should be easier, but I plan on pull enough to fit the 15x10 since thats what I'll be running next year.

Fenders are rolled and pulled in the back to fit the 275 hoosiers on 15x9 wheels that I'm borrowing. They have 40 runs but the most recent of which were on the nationals practice course so I'm basically scrubbing off the OBR in exchange for using the tires.

Oh and I'll just leave this here...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1347942066

Raced in SSM with purple crack yesterday. Beat s turbo miata on 275 slicks among some other boosted miatas BUT I also beat the Panda, aka former national champion SM car, 2nd place this year.

Car looked silly. Need more spring, and need to get smoother. Car was just so perfectly composed and balanced though with the hoosiers on it.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1348488813

with the 15x9 and 275's is there any inner wheel well rubbing?

They rub on to the upper shock mount at full compression. and they also rub on the directional/running light wiring harness. I never had them at full lock but I would assume I get the same sway bar to tire contact and the same control arm to wheel contact as 225 RS3s on 15x9s.

Hey I dont see the picture but you said you were gonna post how you made the mount for the steering wheel. Thinking about getting one for myself.

Oh sorry. I forgot to take the picture while I had it apart. Its was pretty easy. Could I make one with hand tools if I didnt have CNC? Yeah. But it certainly wouldn't look pretty. You would have to buy a metric 5mm counter sink bit for your drill.

State of the wing as of wednesday night. Didn't take pictures last night.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349440195

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349440195

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349440195

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349440195

The 2nd element foam cores ended up being super fragile and we had to cut almost as many extra as to make 2 wings because they would break just taking them out of the foam board and when sliding them on the tubes. Also the 3/4 inch thick foam is actually like .745, and when you're stacking that on a 60" length that shit adds up.

More pictures. Found one more of the machining. When your fixture plate is that pretty, you know you're doin things right.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349543998

Top element before glassing.
http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...003_235210.jpg

Glassing in progress. I did not buy anywhere near enough resin. The styrafoam soaks this shit up like no one's business. I try to prevent that the best I can because its both expensive and heavy.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349543998

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1349543998

The top element didn't come out that great because we tried to do it in 1 piece of glass. This is a bad idea, its nearly impossible to get the glass to stay to the shape. The main plane is going to be done with 4 piece for each layer. Today I'm going to cut the shitty parts off the 2nd element and patch them, then keep working on the main plane, hoping I have enough resin to get 1 layer of glass on both elements. Then I've got the mutha fuckin gallon container coming in which should be more than enough to finish. Then sanding, gel coat, anding, sanding, sanding, wax, endplates, mounts.

Getting there.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1351089300

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1351089300

2nd element needs sanding, And I'm going to put another layer of glass on it because I still dont like how much it can flex. Then sand that one one more time and gel coat. After physically holding the wing over the car its going to be easier to make the mounts that I thought. And its going to look ridiculous.

The wing is in my apartment now. It needs sanding and then to get sprayed with gel cote.

I just got off the phone with trackspeed, they finally got in contact with the harness people after months of not hearing from them. They "should be done next week". Thought they are going to come with some extra sub harnesses for extra power and grounds. The engine also isnt done yet. Andrew (savington) should have the engine assembled by Wednesday of next week. Only 3 months behind schedule.

So according to savington my engine has been measured and test fitted but its not likely to be assembled until after the 25hours of thunder hill. And no word on the AEM EMS4 setup, if I dont have it by the time the MS3-pro is released I'm going to seriously consider changing direction with the ecu. Since I didnt have to pay for the engine on the November credit card bills I bought my welder.

Good news everyone. My AEM EMS4 from TSE will finally be shipping the 26th of December.

Better news, the EMS4 is located in a UPS vehicle somewhere between California and here. And I did the 90-93 dash swap and added some heat insulation. Why? Because fuck you that's why. But seriously, I have a minimum weight in class that I'll have no problem achieving, and comfort is actually an important performance metric, its a lot easier to concentrate when your feet aren't on fire and its not a million decibels inside the car. I also removed the a/c condenser, because, the rest of the a/c doesnt exist.

Dash Out.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1357156218

There are too many dashes on the floor.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1357156218

Carpet out to get all the dirt out of it There was 66 cents under the carpet, and only 1 tiny rust spot under the drivers seat, I just wire brushed it clean and hit it with rustoleum.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1357156218

Insulated.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1357156218

New dash. I need to still get a glove compartment and the little metal piece that goes under the steering column.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1357156218

Parts required for putting a 90-93 dash into a 94-97.
90-93 dash
2 footwell lights and 1 or 2 electrical connectors for them depending on your year.
90-93 tombstone/waterfall/radio surround whatever you want to call it
90-93 gauge hood
90-93 glove box
90-93 metal plate under the steering column
Anything not mentioned, you re-use, including your dash wiring harness

You'll also want to remove the air bag module, and the air bag light from the gauge cluster. And, you will struggle to plug the orange horn connector in on the passengers side behind the glove box because you will no longer have the blue air bag connector there. There is a small tab hiding on the orange connector that is normally depressed by the blue connector when you go to put it in, just depress that with a screw driver as you slide the connector in.

And for the footwell lights, you need to add the wiring in for the drivers side one if you want it to work. No big deal, cut splice, solder, heat shrink. I'm calling solder ok here, because fucking footwell lights are not a critical system.

You'll have no trouble hitting the minimum weight? Humm. I didn't think it was all that easy.

I haven't weighed the car, but I should be close already. Of course I do have another 50-100 pounds of turbo and aero go on. But I still need to lose exhaust weight, seat weight, battery, front fenders. Before the dash work and the steering wheel swap the car was sitting at 2126 without driver and a 1/4 tank. So its less than 66 pounds over weight already. I'm confident I'll be adding ballast for the 2014 season. Its not going to be an all out weight weenie build just yet, the soft top is staying in for now, its not getting control arms, uprights or brakes this year.

I'm sorry. But with a Turbo, soft top, dynomat, stock brakes, control arms, radio, speakers etc etc etc there is NO WAY you will get below 2060 and be legal. I have done all that to my car AND more and it is still heavy by 9 lbs

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1357264960

I never said it would be under with stock brakes and soft top. Its not going to be under this year, I'm going to be about 120lbs over by my estimate, and I know there's more than 120 to take out.

You make it sound so easy. Finding 120lbs in these cars AND being SSM legal isn't easy at all. On my car the first 103lbs was relatively easy...but not cheap the last 17 lbs was A LOT of work. But hey...what do I know.

Yes, you've got that right. I've got a couple tricks up my sleeve, there is a lot of weight kicking around, remember AWH's miata's weight.

You were saying a "x" muffler was too heavy (down low) so you spread a bunch of unneeded weight across the car. Brilliant!

It was 4 pounds of insulation, I weighed it. Thats less than the weight difference between a burns and a normal glass pack. Theres compromise, thats how life works. I want a car I can focus in while I drive, auto-x is very mental, Its hard to focus when your feet are on fire. Yes I could save 2 pounds by pulling the insulation on the passenger side, and I might end up later. I went with this stuff because its really good for thermal insulation, and its easy to remove.

More on the weight thing. The first turbo manifold is going to be sch40 weld els, because I dont want it to break and I dont have $texas$ right now for a 316 Ti stainless manifold with a double slip merge collector. I was worried I'd end up with some 40 pound monstrosity. Even the most ridiculous nest of snakes twin scroll (just in case BW comes out with the TS housing) mani I can come up with only comes out to 17 pounds in solid works not including gussets. And I'm working on something similar, I just keep forgetting to take a few critical measurements of the car to make sure I get the turbo placed exactly where I want it and dont hit the steering column or the block.

And another thing I've been stewing over. The turbo. I look at soviets 6758 torque curve, I see the light of being able to hold 300ftlbs 4k to 8k. From the numbers I've been plugging into my spreadsheets, calculators, and plotting on compressor maps, the 6258 cannot do this, no fucking chance, holding it to 7k should be possible. But that kind of torque isnt useful to me this season since I'll be on a stock 5 speed and will be limiting my torque to 200ftlbs, and it likely wont be useful until I have a good traction control setup. The 6758 looks like it can do it, barely, 300 ftlb at 8k rides the choke line. The 6258, looks to be perfect for 250 ftlb, and at the 300ftlb level I'm at higher efficiencies in the 4-6k rpm range with the 62 wheel rather than the 67 wheel. And the 62 wheel could theoretically hit 300ftlb at 3k rpm, hopefully I'll never need to be going that slow. But transient response is the most important to me, I've auto-x evos/dsms with 16g or 20g turbos and I just couldnt figure out how to drive them, needing to floor it at corner entry so I had full power for corner exit. But driving the stroker miata with a baby turbo, there was no noticeable delay to throttle inputs, thats what I need, hence the reason to go with EFR in the first place. I made a quick model, the inertia difference between the 62 and 67 wheel is about 20-30%. Its around 100g*cm^2 difference, but comparing the inertia to any car sized turbo with an inconel turbine that inertia change is miniscule. So I dont think its going to be a big deal. But I'm still hung up on the choice. I guess the worst that could come out of the 6258 would be that 2 years down the road I buy the 6758, or something better if its come out when/if I want to try to make more power. If I buy the 67 first I'm not sure.

Looking forward to seeing it out this year. We need more Miatas in SSM. Odd there wasn't a single Turbo Miata in SSM at Nationals this year. "Super Street Mazda"

Yeah. I'm not sure if Nationals is in the card this year. We will see. I know I'm going to the Jersey Pro, the DC Pro and of course the evo shootout on my home turf. After that, we'll see. MAYBE the Dover tour. But for nationals I'm really just trying figure out vacation time and if I can figure out a way to get the car there. I only have 3 days of vacation time right now and I dont know when I accrue more yet.

I've been out in the Garage all day tearing the car apart to install all the abs components. Of all the things I have done this winter...the ABS is what I am most excited about.

Yeah. I wish that was in the cards for this year. Next year hopefully. Same with power steering. After driving this car and the CSP car on hoosiers I KNOW it will make me faster. We're working on PS for the CSP car and maybe ABS this winter. Did you the the NB2 abs?

I did. Still working out exactly where I'm going to install the "brick"

You should consider the ABS sooner rather than later. It will pay for it's self in one season

I know I know. I've already made 2 sets of RS3s last season into octagon shapes. Its more about down time and finding a unit than the cost. And I need to double check the rules on the wiring aspect for SSM. It'll be real easy if I can just cut and splice, but if I have to do it like you have to in SP... Thats a shit load of work.

The entire brake system in SSM is unrestricted other than the fact that the friction surface of the rotors must be ferrous metal (unless offered as a factory option)

Rule 16.1.C

Good call. And thankfully the NB2 ABS box doesnt have a prop valve. Thankfully 16.1.I changed 1 letter so the entire windshild washing system is free, so we could put the module in the stock location and run some other washer bottle or completely remove it. But we could have used SP udbd for that anyways.

If you're in the car long enough to get your feet hot, you're doing it wrong.

This just arrived at my house.

Attachment 185672





More good news. My time off accruals just updated in the payroll software. I will be going to nationals.

And what the turbo manifold is starting to maybe shape up into.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1357764562

So, I've come to accept the fact that there is no fucking way I'm going to get a vacuform machine to work this year for the fenders, doing research it seems that I would need an industrial amount of electricity (like 3 phase 220 for single phase 480) to make the oven work for such a large piece of material. And even if I could make some sort of oven that would work like with propane, I dont have the time now. So I can either, cut the stock fenders and have it look like crap. Try again to pull them, even though I already pulled them as far as I could once and it wasnt very far. I could pull them off and spend another 200 bucks in resin and many many hours making my own out of fiber glass or I could buy these. I need to email them and find out what the weight and strength difference is between them. I know after a couple cone strikes on the fiber glass ones the paint will crack, even if I tell the painter to put ALL the flex in it... and the ricer in me wants bare CF/kevlar weave.

More work has happened on the wing. I machined up these beauties.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358816795

So now the wing looks like this.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358816795

And placed on the wheels of the formula car because I can.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1358816795

Just got back from the shop and showered. Current state of the wing below. Machines part of the wing supports.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359195652

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359195652

Also the mobile site wouldn't let me paste, had to switch to desktop version. Or maybe I cannot brain at 5am before bed.

Ended up doing a shit load of sanding on them, 2 reasons. For some reason the gelcoat didn't want to cure spots that I most recently resined, but didnt sand. And the gelcoat made ALL of the imperfections pop like mad. Thankfully it also made it easy to smooth it out since the gelcoat is a lot easier to sand than the resin. I did end up making a couple holes in the glass trying to get it smooth so I had to re resin again in a couple spots, I also found some more holes last night when I was packing up the shop at 2am. So tonight's game plan is to woof down dinner after work, resin the holes in the top element, sand the couple resin spots in the main element, go to a meeting at 7. Sand the lower element, and then see if I have enough time to gelcoat them again.

I did finish the wing supports. They were too damn shiny, kept washing out the pictures unless I got the angle just right.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359386578

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359386578

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359386578

Welp, just heard from track speed, engine wont be shipping this month. I have in the last hour sent ~$1800 to full race and ~#200 to cx racing. Waiting to hear from doc race and bmc racing, so they can take another couple hundred bucks each from me.

Well, Full race was out of 6758s, so is threadstone, southeat power systems, and a host of other companies, I almost bought soviets 6258. Then I tried calling AWE again to see if they'd pick up, low and behold they had 2 of them. So I made that order there, but I'm still getting the bpv cover, wastegate actuator, and vband stuff from full race.

Mwhahahahahaha

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359852042

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359852042

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359852042

And I've got the placement done. Pulled the exhaust manifold and drained the coolant so that I could get it where I wanted. Getting close to pulling the engine.

Put my actual measurements of where I want the turbo into the cad model. Fuck me right?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359999589

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359999537

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1359999537

I'm working on something less retarded right after I finish this post.

Getting better, 2-4 are 12" long, 1 is 10" long And I cant figure out how to make them even, 2 inches shouldnt be that big of a deal.

http://i450.photobucket.com/albums/q...emanifold9.jpg

Attachment 185631

Attachment 185632

Cylinder 4 kind of looks stupid, but I cant get anything better that still clears cylinder 3 and is 12".

Looking good Leafy! +1
Now if only fabricating was as easy as drawing.

I know. Especially because BMC race hasnt gotten back to me yet. I think I'm just going to have to take that 1/2 304 plate thats been sitting in my apartment and make my own flange.

And here's the newest version I integrated my actual manifold flange into this one rather than the mockup flange. And cleaned up cylinder 4 so that it takes less bends to make. Its going to take 9 90's 3 180's and a little over 5" of straight.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1360013746

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1360013746

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1360013746

Are you going for ac and ps compatibility?