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Thanks. Right now it looks like the first local event is May 16th, at the Milwaukee Mile. I typically don't go further than MKE mile, Blackhawk Farms, I might try for the autobahn this year as well. I wouldn't feel comfortable going out to Gingerman unless I was trailering the car, which I don't have the ability to do.
I do have a buddy who is starting to get into cars with an E36 he recently picked up, I might try to get him back into autocross, if that happens I may do a few local events as well. However I 'think' Miller Park closed the lots for all autocross events? So that might not happen.
Yeah, it's been confirmed that Miller Park will no longer hold automotive events unfortunately. Tosses any plans I did have for AutoX pretty much in the trash as Madison SCC events just aren't that great of venues. FVSCC and CWSCC hold AutoX events at the Road America kart track and Shawano USAIR a couple of times a year, so I'm really banking on going to those as they are the only ones worth my time/money IMO.
I'm going to see how progress on my car goes for its first event this year. Might drive it out to Gingerman for the Kmiata event on May 11th if all goes well. Chicago SCCA also has a track day at Autobahn that day too. If not, its good to know you'd probably be at the mile on the 16th!
Ouch. MKE needs to find a new venue and quickly then, its nice to have some local-ish areas to run the car. Gingerman is 4.5 hours from me give or take, thats pushing my distance. MKE Mile being mid May means I shouldn't have an issue getting to that, weather should be decent by then, so Ill be able to get the car's kinks worked out by then. Definitely looking forward to having FI and some more aero on the car.
I have driven the new turbo set up maybe 5 miles, before having the turbo my OCC never had any build up inside. I noticed yesterday there was some oil in the filter as well as a yellow gooey color. Picture attached. Does anyone know what this is? Quick googling says it might be water mixed with the oil? Could this just be initial build up from getting the water and oil lines together, or could something more sinister have happened in 5 miles at 3psi?
I also realized the Enkei wheels on my donor car don't seem to fit with the sport brakes....*facepalm*.
If that's from your catch can, then it looks perfectly normal to me. That stuff always looks super foul.
Ok I won't worry about it then. It was just odd never really having any building up and BAM there is some after a turbo gets bolted up. Perhaps I just never noticed. Ill keep an eye on it come spring once I start putting some miles on this thing to make sure I don't have excessive build up.
Spring is upon us. I am hoping to get the brakes bled this weekend, new tires on, and alignment is scheduled for next Wednesday. A few general questions I thought I would pose:
1. Wilwoods have 2 bleeder ports. It appears you bleed the top screw only.
2. Heat shielding. My car has a metal shield that covers the top back and side of the turbo. Is it recommended to doubly protect all the lines as well? Or is it typically one or the other.
My thought was to wrap all the lines and the inside of the shield in reflective tape, while it won't insulate the lines technically, it should help reflect the heat back from the heat shield. Otherwise I was thinking of just picking up some cheap header wrap and taping or banding it on. What have people had success doing? Normally I see a shield or lines wrapped, but I thought both would be safest.
I do both. For a track environment you can't be too careful. The reflective tape is excellent but works even better if you take a piece of fuel line or vacuum line and split it lengthwise and cover brake lines, throttle cable, and speedo cable, etc as an insulating layer prior to covering with reflective tape.
Excellent. I actually got my brakes bled today, tires are being installed now. Hopefully I can get a short shake down run this afternoon in to make sure nothing catastrophic happens, and this weekend I will work on shielding everything and installing my head shield .
Shake down run was great, car pulls like a freight train, I bet I can maybe keep up with a mini van now. Ha, in reality, the car scares the **** out of me now and im running 6psi. The only leak I noticed was a little power steering fluid from when I de-powered the rack, I will have to go and make sure all is tightened down.
I know I am going to get a lot of crap for this....... But Voodoo Box tuning. When in boost the AFR will go lower as boost climbs, I would always see below 12 on full boost. On some pulls high in the rev range it would drop to 10, I even saw 9 once. I have reached out to FM for comment, but I would post the question here. Since there is no adjustability in the box, I am at the mercy of what it spits out. If I am constantly seeing that rich of AFR, that would lead me to believe there is more headroom to turn up the boost. I don't want to add more power, but is there a concern to leave it as it sits? And be pig rich?
Obviously "get a MS3" is the comment I plan to hear. But this was an exercise in free/cheap boost. I had to buy a few gaskets, fluids, clamps, drill/tap, etc, so all in I think I boosted my car for effectively $200. I am working on finishing up my aero, and the first track day will be here soon. I appreciate the comments.
That's really rich. Like, foul your plugs rich. I am of no help on the Voodoo box and its capability, but even finding a used DIYPNP for cheap would be a huge benefit. You can build them yourself for <$500 new. If you don't have MS experience, you can drop me a line as I have plenty of base files to work from. Could have the car dialed in quickly if you were out in Milwaukee area with it sometime.
Padlock, I appreciate the offer. I will get into MS soon enough. With the ELBJ, tires, and a slew of other things my racing budget got quite tight for this season. I will keep my eye out for a MS, but im hoping the Poo Poo box will be adequate for the 5psi I want at this time. The goal is to upgrade to MS after I get this new set up dialed in . I know this is not the MT.net approved plan, but hopefully I can make this work short term.
Goal is to do a shakedown at Blackhawk Farms May 2nd, then hopefully the Milwaukee Mile on May 16th.
Also, I am getting my alignment tomorrow. This car is used to drive to the track, race, then drive home. Maybe a few errands in summertime so I am mainly looking to get good tire wear as my last set was destroyed.
5" pinch in the front, 550# springs, ELBJ, 15x9 with 225 tires. My plan was to go in between the Supermiata dual duty and race alignment. I only had -2 camber last year and the tires were ruined. I am reading up on what people have been using for alignments, but if anyone wants to chime in I would appreciate it.
I usually shoot for 0 toe front, ~.05 toe in per side in the rear. Then 2.5-3 degrees front, and around a half degree less in the rear. Tire pyrometer from there.
Thanks for the reply. I am not an expert at reading tires yet, but the outer shoulders were ruined on my car. You can see in the attached pic I had plenty of tread on the inside, and the outside shoulder was toast. I believe I was at -2 camber.
camber would ruin the inside shoulder, not the inner. And again, toe ruins tires, not camber. If you have bad toe from a shitty alignment or wobbly tie rod/wheel bearing, and a **** ton of camber, yeah, it'll wear on the inside, cause that's where the camber put the wear. But it's not causing it.
If you had a bunch of outside wear, either your ***** fucked or you need more camber.
Yes, I had outside wear and only -2 camber. The tracks I was running were super hard on the left side of the car, so that tire above was the front left tire. This alignment I will plan on hitting more the 3 or more range to try and even out the wear. I will also have them look at the toe to ensure it is correct. Thanks Curly.
Just an FYI to anyone with the VooDoo Box. According to FM, it sounded like there really isn't a way for it to run a low boost number with max timing pulled and not go rich, their recommendation is to increase timing, or increase the boost in order to get a better AFR. I am a bit concerned about going over the 6-7psi I am now, so maybe I will bump timing a touch. I should be putting a hundred miles on it today going to get the alignment, so perhaps I will check AFRs again, maybe increase boost 1-2psi and recheck, just play with the numbers a touch.
02-12-2019, 07:33 AM
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