When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Taking responsibility for my broken dreams - 2001 with Precision 4828
I decided to start fresh since this car has entered a new phase and it's been so long since it's been driven and enjoyed, and even longer since I made a lot of the poor decisions that led me to this point. I had planned on documenting this via YouTube, but after watching a number of videos of other creators I couldn't find anything that I could offer that hasn't been seen before. So... Build thread part 2.
So, here is a short catch-up of how I got to this point.
Back in 2017-2018 I had been accumulating parts for the last several years in preparation for a motor build (so that I could fully take advantage of the power of this turbo). I started to realize that I wasn't going to be able to do the motor build for various personal reasons, so I went to a friend of mine and made a deal for him to build my motor and put it in my car in exchange for a Borg Warner 6758 I had gotten from Vlad. I handed off the parts to him, and we started assembly together, because I wanted to learn how to build a motor properly.
I had been having problems with the reliability of my car for awhile. The engine would suddenly die and usually be able to be started after sitting/cooling for a half hour or so. Either way, it was super unsafe and frustrating. Finally after it dying on me in August/September of 2018 I had it towed to the same friend's shop as above. Some money was exchanged for a promise of work done to the car, and I left to Georgia to start a new job several months later.
(more details in my build thread)
A couple months ago I picked up the car, but it was too damn hot to do any work on it.
However now that is has cooled down I am starting to make some headway.
Install fuel return line to upgrade(?) car to return style fuel system
Install DW300 fuel pump in tank to replace failed DW200
Delete in tank FPR
Replace external fuel filter with e85 safe filter from FuelLab
Set up plumbing from tank to new fuel filter, fuel return etc.
Install Trackspeed Fuel Relay
First item on the agenda was to install a fuel return line. Rather than try and run braided steel line from the engine bay to the tank, I noticed that the clips that held the fuel line had an unused slot. After looking at the fuel line carefully, I decided to try and order a second (hard) fuel line from Mazda. The idea was that I would install it in the unused mounting slot and slightly bend the line where necessary to make it line up.
This turned out to be a success, but it would have been far easier to do this with the motor out of the car.
Next was to install the DW300 in tank, and this is where I learned some things. According to the instructions I have seen, you should splice the fuel tank wiring to the supplied DW fuel tank wiring. For the previous DW200 fuel pump, which I had assumed failed due to it not powering on causing my car to ultimately stop working - I had spliced and used what I thought was gasoline safe crimps and splice.
However, upon opening up the tank, I discovered that the gasoline had eaten away the heat-shrink on both splices, and somehow the DW wiring to crimp connection had corroded to the point where the splice swelled and released the wires. This is what was causing my car to be unreliable!
I am very much looking forward to this car being back on the road.
Problem with Sport Brakes is that PFC does not make pads for them (or at least did not use to). For 1.6 and 1.8 they make both 11 and 8 compound pads.
DNM
Thank you.
Eventually I will be upgrading the brakes to Wilwoods, but without knowing how much putting this thing back on the road will cost me I can't afford to take on expensive upgrades such as this yet.
Also looking forward to your build, curious what that turbo is capable of. Good luck brother sounds like youve got all the right parts to make 350whp+.
Also looking forward to your build, curious what that turbo is capable of. Good luck brother sounds like youve got all the right parts to make 350whp+.
I'm hoping to tickle 400 wheel. The turbo may not do it but I feel I have all the right supporting mods. If it can't do it on this build, it can't do it period.
By the way, I know that my trans and diff won't survive it on the street, but I'd at least like to know the turbo/motor can do it. I can always dial it back.
I'm hoping to tickle 400 wheel. The turbo may not do it but I feel I have all the right supporting mods. If it can't do it on this build, it can't do it period.
By the way, I know that my trans and diff won't survive it on the street, but I'd at least like to know the turbo/motor can do it. I can always dial it back.
Yea youve got a pretty extensive build. I did some looking on the 4828 and it looks pretty similar flow wise to a GTX 2860 like I have. I found that on my car @22psi the turbo is pretty much maxxed out and 373whp/352ft/lb was the most I could make. I have a couple things Im gonna change to see if I can eek more power from it, like you Im trying to hit 400whp on a smallish turbo. I dont want to size up to a 2867 because you lose about 400rpm of spoolup and I like full boost at 3700rpm. Good luck with it man, Im keen to see what you can do with it.
My plan is to upgrade the entire cabin, from wiring to sound, to heat.
Frankly, my passenger compartment wiring is a bit of a mess because I had wires running this way and that for my CB radio, antenna disconnect, etc. That doesn’t even include the gauge wiring and stuff. I attempted to keep it within braided sleaving but as time went on in the project I kept adding new runners back and forth to the trunk. I will be completely starting from scratch and doing it as professionally as I am able. Frankly it's such a big job, that i've been putting off the project and hiding from the work. Plus, I had to get up the nerve to pull the dash, which I had never done before. Plus, I really hate digging deeper when I have so many unfinished steps elsewhere on the car, but it makes sense to me to get the interior mostly buttoned up completely before moving back under the hood.
So, I removed what wiring I could untangle, and what I couldn’t I just cut. I’ll splice or run new wiring as needed. I am pretty sure it will actually be less complicated when done because I now have easy access to everything.
Last weekend I pulled up the carpet and wiped everything down with mineral spirits to clean any adhesive or contaminants, and laid down some sound deadening material. Interestingly there seemed to be some sound deadening already there from the factory. I heard that you don’t have to put it everywhere, just on places that sound “tinny” or hollow “gas-can” sounding.
Originally I had planned on doing the heat management immediately after the (sound deadening) Kil-Mat, but I changed my mind and I’ll do the wiring next. I will be doing the planning this week and next weekend, and should do the work the weekend after that as I’m currently doing 10 hour shifts that make every other weekend a four day weekend.
10-21-2020, 08:40 AM
Taking responsibility for my broken dreams - 2001 with Precision 4828
2
