bit of catch-up to do....

Kpower harness situation still not corrected, so back to the ID1050x injectors I went.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...24978d35b9.jpg

Had to address a couple wiring mistakes and a missing ground. During this phase I found/caught another discrepancy/difference in the two Kpower harnesses: one of them has a ground wire in the ignition/coil pack area that would presumably go to the OEM middle-of-the-fuel-rail valve cover bolt.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eb79c69cf1.jpg

With the fuel pump ground trigger corrected, we now have fuel pressure! At this stage it did its first actual startup after a few days of crank no-fire. So, it RAN, and I drove it around the block once.
However, the wiring instructions I blindly followed are intended for streetcars with keyed ignition switches and without race safety master kill switches, so I ended up bypassing my killswitch with the alternator wiring. That was an easy correction though.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d6bac31ff8.jpg

leak evidence: I believe the hydraulic throw out bearing is leaking.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ef4b944af2.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3ed6a27079.jpg

Photos of a running and driving Kswap:
-no cooling fan wired yet. Interior connection is wired through the miata body harness and is not coming on with the ECU's temp trigger. So I need to move it to a manual switch that i'll run in grid/etc.
-Miata gauge cluster has since stopped working. No power/backlight/rpm/MIL/nothing.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...89c55ed125.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0d2cd1be8d.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bd63d93ac7.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fa69fefafb.jpg

So off to the dyno we go!

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bc14d022bc.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...580cdd2339.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...088e469a32.jpg

We tried to do a 45mm restrictor plate but the throttle blade hit the plate. That would need a spacer to move the TB forward off the manifold flange to work.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8f522f6db6.jpg


So my detune is simply adjusting the threaded OEM miata throttle cable pedal out to 60% TPS and some VTC changes.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d04ebaa5c3.jpg

Best run on the high power map was 202whp/152tq and the detune is 177/147 which works out to a NASA avg of 167. This is on a Mustang Dyno, so i'll still need to do a compliance check on a DynoJet, and may need to pull a couple degrees out of the top of that detune map compensate for DynoJet vs Mustang figures.

It runs, and it got 4.5 hours of thrashing on the dyno yesterday so I have some confidence it can survive a NASA weekend.
Gonna go autocross it tomorrow night at the first of our local weeknight PAX-only challenge events and plan to drag it up to Mid Ohio later this month.

I am having some FOMO regret for not splurging on a drive by wire setup and a nicer ECU and a dash display, but alas...

I often feel this way...

...but it's nice seeing the car finally on the ground running!

Nice update!

I have a similar-looking leak at the back of my engine. Are you actually losing hydraulic fluid? I'm 99% sure mine is engine oil, but without pulling the engine (ugh) I have no idea where it originates. I'm not losing clutch fluid.

After seeing some more posts about stuck throttles, I'm even more glad I went with DBW. I guess I have more faith in software than hardware. I haven't gotten an official dyno of my car yet so I don't know if I'll have to detune, but that's a nice option to have in my pocket.

Took it out to our local Wednesday night autocross PAX-only challenge. I learned that the new/recent XS_ "extreme street tire" classes still have a lowest min weight of 2330lb and well, my car is 2046lbs... So I ran it in XP for a really terrible PAX performance.

However, I set FTD by .01 second!



https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7c6d671ca6.jpg


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bc93082dc4.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ad106f196c.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b41f5b3eb4.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...31b30c6010.jpg

I was going to comment about your airdam flapping around on video, but then scrolled down more and saw the photos. Dang that airdam goes low! Do you treat those as consumables?

Sick! Nice driving! I like your gopro positioning, might have to steal that.

I always thought the airdam contacting the ground was bad, as it "aero locks", and doesn't let any flow under it eliminating the high speed air flow under the car which increases downforce. I have no idea what I'm talking about though.

Splitter is too low, and not stable enough. Probably because of that "Z" bracket to lower it below the oil pan. My list this week before Mid Ohio w/NASA Great Lakes is to address that. That may mean shortening the airdam an inch or so. As it is, it only rubs the outer corners with body roll. There is no ground contact along the front under braking, so i'm not too worried about "stalling" the airflow under a not-flat bottom production car.

Mine was 100% clutch fluid leaking from a loose connection between the bleed line and bottom of the bleeder fitting. That fluid was also collecting on the chassis shelf below the brake booster. Found and fixed before AX and has been bone dry since.

I don't want to put this in writing even, but it hasn't leaked any oil at all, from anywhere. I guess its burning enough of it that it doesnt need to leak any.



In other news..
DynoJet appt made for Friday morning on the way to NASA Mid Ohio.
I'll be prepping 3 sets of wheels/tires depending on what it makes on the DJ.

My primary goal is a sub 168 avg whp result on the detune map so I can run a set of my leftover 2019 contingency win sticker 225/45 R7s on 9.5" wheels. #finally
Contingency #1 is a set of 205 R7s on 8" wheels to earn the 'small tire credit' to gain a couple WHP cushion if I end up at ~171ish.
Contingency #2 is a set of 225/45 NT01 on 9" wheels that get me the 1.6 tire credit AND small tire credit. This would allow me to run my high power map, also assuming it lands near the Mustang dyno number of 202 peak. The ballast side of the equation would then be anywhere from 2450 to 2550lbs, 187 avg whp to 196 avg whp.

I think going into 2024, i'll be focusing on a longer/torquier intake pipe, with a proper restrictor plate solution that gets me a flat-ish 185 avg whp.

I know the 100lbs up to 2550lb gets me another .1 on the ratio, but I really dont think 225/45/15 RR/RC1 can handle 35 minute races at 2550lbs. So I aim to stay closer to the 2450 cutoff to earn the small tire credit.
I know that 205/9" R7s were very unhappy doing so when I had the Keegan engine at 168whp/2450lbs


Other prep: Ballast and fixing/raising my center net.
280lbs of ballast in the passenger seat does ‘things’:
Passenger side is now heavier than drivers and I have it below 51% front.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...43ec081b4a.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...79a31ddc95.jpg


I have a seatback brace in the mail and a fire suppression install underway. Both required for a 2023 logbook stamp for the last race weekend I plan to attend. Impeccable timing.

Our experience with the RR's is that they cope with heat far better than the RC1. Rayon vs no Rayon basically. Hack for RC1 is to shave them to 3/32.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9d6349c67c.jpg

I redid my rad inlet duct and took an inch off the forward opening to lift it up off the undertray. That allowed me to raise the undertray an inch. Had to get rid of the "Z" bracket and solid mount the undertray to some flattened angle stock. Not thrilled about this current mounting method, but it should get me through this weekend.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1f4ab20bf3.jpg

2019 contingency won 225/45 R7s are mounted up on my second set of 9.5" Freeforms. Not sure i'll light em off or not. Kinda depends on Friday's DynoJet session. There is a world where I target the TT4 Club Course record on the high power map, no ballast and these fresh 225s, but also a world where I can target the ST5 or TT5 Club course times on the detune map with all the ballast. Just depends on the DJ numbers...
Second set of 2 HC 205 R7s on new 15x9 Ultragrams for practice/shakedown/maybe the whole weekend.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ba8fe54211.jpg

Just a fire suppression system to finish up and then I can start loading!

Out of curiosity, what material did you use to build the radiator ducting?

That's coroplast. Corrugated plastic sign board. You can get it from sign supply companies. 4x8 sheets. comes in 3,6 and 10mm. 10mm for undertrays, 3 or 6mm for ducting.

Thank you for not only answering the question I asked, but also the questions I didn't even think to ask!

Also relevant to constructing things with it.

https://motoiq.com/wrench-tips-17-el...-day-ductwork/

Car was all set, 2046lbs turned into 2540 with ~285lbs of ballast and 209lb suited driver.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e3ec6ef91b.jpg

Off to a DynoJet we go
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...94ce6c6057.jpg

From the Mustang dyno to the DynoJet, we gained ~4.5% and spun the roller to 184whp on the 60% TPS detune. That mathed out to 178 NASA AVG, which was too much jam, even with all my ballast and a full tank of gas.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...89b8335545.jpg

So I yanked all the ballast out and classed up to TT4 and ST4. This would move me from the small bore "Lightning" rungroup with ST5/6, SE30, Spec944, SM, etc and into big bore "Thunder" with ST1/2/3, AI, SI, GTS and CMC.
I joked throughout the weekend that I was driving an ST4.875 car, as it was otherwise legal for ST5 If I had a 205 R7 on an 8.5" wheel, or a 245 RC1/RR on the 9.5" wheels I ran. No matter, I was just happy to be there and to be shaking down the swap and turning laps.

With the ballast yanked, but still with a full tank, it was 2286lbs. Detuned/restricted, pump gas honda motors dont burn much gas, and I didnt add any until midday sunday. Lightest I ever saw was 2256 once the tank was reading 1/4 full.
ST4/TT4 classification was 2200lbs which allowed me to have 199 avg whp. So I was down 21 avg whp, down a splitter, down a bbk and 60-80lbs heavy all weekend for the class I was contesting.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1ba6a8cc95.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...31fd767890.jpg

TT grid: I hovered between 10th and 13th overall all weekend, moving forward on the Club course(with chicane) Sunday.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f4b06091b9.jpg

TT4.875 spec was enough to win TT4 both days:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...469bec342f.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...46c895ccda.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dc3e4afb3c.jpg

Saturday night track walk:
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...becc5bfcbf.jpg

My runplan was to get several short quick sessions in, so I was planning to skip the long 35 minute Saturday ST race.
I ended up doing both TT and Thunder warm up sessions and 2 of the 3 Saturday TT sessions.
I DNF'd the shortest 25 minute race #2 on Sunday morning due to a worsening vibration that turned out to be rear driveshaft flange bolts. I also found the rear PPF bolts to be a bit loose.
Race #3 Sunday afternoon was 30 minutes and I was a bit hesitant to jump from 2-3 hot lap TT/warm up sessions right into a ~25 minute straight race(due to formation lap and cooldown, we dont 'race' for the full 30)

I started 5th in ST4 due to previous results and we had SU and GTS in front us in the same start wave. I got a great start and the row of ST4 cars in front of me left the middle of the track open. I found myself leading ST4 by turn 2 and was able to pedal most of the race and drive to a gap in my mirrors.
Ron(275 whp, full aero STI) was able to close the gap with a fortunate yellow flag and then use my low power/highly susceptible to traffic car characteristics to his advantage and simply motored by me on the back straight with one lap to go. Literally nothing I could do about it.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e8114ab972.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e3bff3eaa6.jpg





Takeaways from shakedown weekend:
I miss the splitter.
I miss the BBK.
This engine vibrates like crazy and I may never get used to it.
This engine loses power with oil temp like crazy and I need to address it.

I did match/tie my Pro Course PB 1:36.9xx which I set in a GLTC race drafting an ASM S2000. The car at the time was ~100lbs lighter and had a splitter, on 205 R7/9" wheels.
I also set a new Club Course PB with the 1:38.3, which is .5 under the TT5 record. If the rules don't change this offseason, that should be easy to get back in my name next spring. (yes, I was ~325lbs light for TT5 on this power map, but I have a plan to pull 6-8whp out and get a flatter curve which will class lower and not slow me down much.)

I haven't driven this car since Oct 2021 and it felt so good to be back in it.

Kudos! Nice to see someone with talent having success with the same formula I hope to follow.

A couple questions that are more about my car than yours and probably pretty noobish, but would appreciate your thoughts:

Your car weighs 2046lbs with a full cage? I'm probably around there with only a back-half. I guess I should be finding places to take out weight.

Do the 245/40 RC1/RR fit your fenders without flares? And do those want a 9.5 or 10 inch wheel?

Thanks in advance

Great results!

I'm shooting for TT4 with my K Swap, and I know I'll be down on power compared to the pointy end cars, but it's good to see a K Miata being competitive.

Mine is 2050 with the BP, full cage, full aero and big brake kit. I was surprised I actually lost a bit of weight going from 1/2 cage to full cage, but I also gutted the doors and took out the pax seat at the same time. ETA: also went from OEM hardtop to race top.

Yes, but I have several mods that contribute to that. I have lexan windshields front and rear, composite top and doors, gutted/skinned/pinned trunk and hood, aluminum shocks, two piece front rotors, and my cage is pretty minimal(no roof diag, no rear leg diag, no FIA A pillar, no gussets)
that weight is also including a dual pull Lifeline 2020 fire suppression system, back brace, dual nets, oem size battery in a heavy-on-purpose steel battery tray, etc. The car has been as light as 1980lbs without driver and fuel.

They fit stock fenders on the 9.5, which is why I use the 9.5. They’re probably happier on a 10, but that requires other compromises and lots of data lately has shown that even at GLTC power/pace, these cars are routinely faster on 225/9-9.5”