TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

Need To Complete:

• DW 300 Fuel Pump
• ID 1000cc Injectors
• Crossflow Radiator (FM or TSE?)
• Oil Cooler Kit
• Skunk 2 Throttle Body
• NB Throttle Cable
• Fuel Line Fittings
• Heater Core and Turbo Coolant Line and Fittings
• Gauges
• Race Seat-Maybe
• Steering Wheel-Maybe

Need To Order:

• Finish Assembling the Engine
• Finish Cleaning up Turbo Manifold
• Prep and Paint Engine Bay
• Mount Intercooler
• Fabricate Intercooler Piping
• Fabricate Downpipe
• Fabricate Turbo Brace

COP Bracket Design

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

I chamfered the edges of my M-Tuned fuel rail so I could remove the valve cover without removing the fuel rail.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Very cool. Sub'd

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

I'll be honest, the Miata has taken a back seat lately in favor of some Subaru upgrades that I've been meaning to do. The scoob is now running on E85 and it's a substantial difference from 91 pump gas.



I did however pick up another vvt engine via a Craigslist ad here in town. Hopefully this will get to stay a backup for quite some time, or possibly end up in another miata if I find one with a hurt motor.



Also, had a birthday last week and the misses got me a fancy cake that I shared with my local autox buddies. (Neokla is our scca region)



Today I pulled the trigger on the 949 crossflow, and hope to get the engine bay painted so that I can drop in the motor in the coming weeks/months.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (2)

Just found this build, looks pretty awesome. Can't wait to see how it turns out.

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

Got started on the painting process this weekend. Still working on finishing the front bumper and fenders.

Restoring the front and rear subframe will likely come next with ES poly bushings and zerk fittings.

Still trying to decide on a plan for braking. As this will be more of an AutoX car, part of me says to not spend the money on upgrades, but part of me wants to also do track days..

Mobius

iTrader: (2)

The wilwood sulutions are all lighter than stock, so therefore good for autox as well.

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

That's what I'm beginning to read. Initially I was set on Trackspeed's new package, but I'd be interested to know what the difference in weight is between the 11's and the 11.75's.

Every time I look at my "to purchase" list I get depressed.. Since I'm already talking about, I might as well update the post.

Items To Purchase

• Crossflow Radiator-Bought
• Front Hubs-Bought
• Rear Bearings-Bought
• ES Bushing Kit-Bought
• Zerk Fittings
• Amsoil Grease
• R-Package Ball Joints
• Front Big Brake Kit
• Rear Big Rotor Bracket
• Rear Sport Rotors
• Front and Rear Brake Pads
• Sway Bar Mounting Brackets
• Skunk2 Throttle Body
• DW300 Pump
• ID 1000's
• Oil Cooler Kit
• Fuelab 535 FRP
• Fuel System AN Line and Fittings
• Spark Plug Wires
• Spark Plugs
• Gauges
• Seats
• Steering Wheel

Need to Fabricate

• Intercooler Mounting
• Intercooler Piping
• Downpipe
• Repair Muffler Tubing
• LS Coil Bracket
• Turbo/Downpipe Support

Sirnixalot

I have the same concerns in regards to the 11" & 11.75" kits. I doubt I will NEED the 11.75" kit but I sure as **** WANT it lol

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Where did you purchase your zerk fittings from and what type? I need to order some to install with my new bushing.

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

I haven't made the zerk purchase yet, but I'm hearing that many of the parts stores carry them along with ranch supply stores (Atwoods in Oklahoma).

Here is 949's tutorial on installation. http://949racing.com/installingzerkfittings.aspx

In other news, I got the rear subframe out and have begun the process of removing bearings and bushings. Pictures to update progress soon.

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

The final color went on the fenders and bumper. A few runs showed up, that will need to be sanded down, but it looks vastly better than before. I also began the process of cleaning up the suspension and removing all the old bushings. The local farm store surprised me and had a pack of zerk fittings on sale, so I grabbed them up and need to drill the pilot holes before sending everything out to powdercoat.

I'm continuing to run into, "well I might as well" situations. Like for instance, there is an NB front subframe, brake booster, and power steering rack at the local salvage. My base model came with an unpowered rack, so it would be nice to get a little quicker ratio. If I throw in a 1' master cylinder I should be good to go on brakes for the foreseeable future.

I believe if I get the NB booster, this Centric master (PN 13045600) for a 929 should work for my non-ABS car.

More Information for CENTRIC 13045600

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

That's the 7/8th master. You need the one from a '92 and up.

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for correcting me there. I saw both that part number as well as the newer CENTRIC 13045604. The 92+ Centric PN is not specific on whether or not it is designed for ABS or not, so I need to do compare it to 94-97 non-ABS master.

More Information for CENTRIC 13045604

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Protege 929 Master Cylinder Brake Upgrade - Page 4

A bit late, but ABS vs w/o ABS are the same.

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

So I sprung for an NB front subframe along with the steering rack to depower and somehow I've missed that the NB knuckles are different and somewhat more desirable. It sounds like the rear is unchanged aside from adding 5mm of track width per knuckle. The fronts are supposed to have the steering mount moved up 7mm but I haven't been able to decipher whether they also have the 5mm extra track. Can anyone confirm or deny this for me?

If they do, that means I would have to get front and rear knuckles to keep it even. Are the knuckles really worth the hassle?

In other news, I should have lots of parts coming in over the next two weeks. Snagged a set of rear sport brakes with brackets from a nearby salvage for a deal today!

90civichhb

iTrader: (5)

I zerked all my control arms last season. I used most of the 949 write up, but I tried using 45* bends in some areas in hopes that I would be able to get a grease cap on it easily, no dice. I have to grease half the bushings with the needle type applicator, it's a pain in the ****. Still, better than having to remove everything to regrease it every season. Also, don't forget to notch the bushings or grease will just bypass the center section. All stuff I am sure you have accounted for, mostly wanted to comment to subscribe.

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

Progress Pics!

• Drilled/Clearanced/Tapped Control Arms for Zerks
• Painted and Assembled Spindles/Knuckles
• Powdercoated Subframes, Control Arms, Rear Brace
• Acquired and Painted Sport Rears Calipers
• Assembled Control Arms with V8R BJ's, ES Bushings, and Zerks!
• Bought Some Stuff
• Made Some Stuff

More pictures to come..

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)