Timk Makes Up for Talent With an EFR
Yo,
This is my daily driven 1998 NB:

It's pretty stock except for some suspension changes and extra creature comforts.
So far I have done the following:
It came with a lot of goodies - beefy swaybars, braided brake lines etc. At the moment I'm doing an engine build on a spare motor, this one has really bad vac at idle and is down on power.
Cheers
This is my daily driven 1998 NB:

It's pretty stock except for some suspension changes and extra creature comforts.

So far I have done the following:
- MSM front brakes
- Tein Super Street suspension
- TorSen LSD
- MX-5 Plus ROPS
- Wider wheels
It came with a lot of goodies - beefy swaybars, braided brake lines etc. At the moment I'm doing an engine build on a spare motor, this one has really bad vac at idle and is down on power.
Cheers
Last edited by sixshooter; Mar 25, 2015 at 07:55 AM. Reason: req
Here is the clutch I will be running:

It is a modified Exedy built by Direct Clutch and is bolted to a Toda 1600 flywheel. Hopefully this combined with the 6 speed and 4.1 final ratio will be quite fun to drive!

It is a modified Exedy built by Direct Clutch and is bolted to a Toda 1600 flywheel. Hopefully this combined with the 6 speed and 4.1 final ratio will be quite fun to drive!
Head has been torqued down now, plus water and oil pumps are on:

I decided to go with the BP6D oil pump (used on the VVT models and the MSM) as it can flow more and is a bit beefier.
One other change I've made is swapping to a JDM tacho; it makes the redline area much easier to see with your peripheral vision on track days:

It is an easy swap to do however on Australian cars the 0-2 area not as well lit as the rest of the gauge. The Australian cluster doesn't have anything in this area so there's no provisions for a bulb or light to get through. I don't find it to be a problem.

I decided to go with the BP6D oil pump (used on the VVT models and the MSM) as it can flow more and is a bit beefier.
One other change I've made is swapping to a JDM tacho; it makes the redline area much easier to see with your peripheral vision on track days:

It is an easy swap to do however on Australian cars the 0-2 area not as well lit as the rest of the gauge. The Australian cluster doesn't have anything in this area so there's no provisions for a bulb or light to get through. I don't find it to be a problem.
Good stuff. I was going to say soak up all that oil pooled up on the cylinders because you don't need it there, just the walls, but oh well, too late. Hope it doesn't cause any harm.
What tires are on those konigs?
What tires are on those konigs?
Thanks for the comments. 
These are the tyres:
Federal Tyres - Federal Motorsports - 595RS-R
They have a lower treadwear rating than the KU36 (Kumho Ecsta XS) but I don't find they are as sticky.
I have a set of Toyo Proxes R888 now for track days anyway, I find them heaps better than either of those mentioned above.
Cheers

These are the tyres:
Federal Tyres - Federal Motorsports - 595RS-R
They have a lower treadwear rating than the KU36 (Kumho Ecsta XS) but I don't find they are as sticky.
I have a set of Toyo Proxes R888 now for track days anyway, I find them heaps better than either of those mentioned above.
Cheers
Seating the rings can take much longer if you excessively oil the walls, if you don't end up with glazing the walls in which case they'll never seat - which means you'd have to re-hone the walls. Research wet vs. dry installation - there are pros and cons of each obviously... nice build!
Seating the rings can take much longer if you excessively oil the walls, if you don't end up with glazing the walls in which case they'll never seat - which means you'd have to re-hone the walls. Research wet vs. dry installation - there are pros and cons of each obviously... nice build!













