Turning Japanese I Really Think So
 

Hello... all you wonderful people.

I thought I best get around to starting a build thread on here, I did introduce myself a while back but as things are really moving along with the car now, so I need to start ingesting the wealth of turbo knowledge on here.

Over the last 12 months I supercharged the car (don't kill me yet) and recently got offered a turbo kit for good money, so I decided to take it (am I your friend now?) even though I'd only been supercharged two months...

I guess the boost bug has bitten me.

So I took the charger off and sold all the bits and I'm in the process of collecting the new parts of the build, boost solenoid etc. Thankfully all the messing about with an intercooler and installing the MegaSquirt etc is already done.

Tuning the M45 seemed fairly straightforward, never had any knock, got reasonable power from it. However I suspect with the T28 I'll be running that I need to really get to grips in much more depth with tuning, my ignition table was pretty tame on the charger, I expect it to get somewhat more complicated running the turbo.

So, some pictures...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398929078

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398929078

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398929078

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398929078

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1398929078

Thanks for looking,
-Lew

Well, thought I best update this.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399968420

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399968420

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399968420

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1399968420

So the turbo is all on and working, at the moment I'm just running the actuator pressure until I get another couple of bits sorted. Done some initial tuning to make it safe for the time being and it still pulls very very well.

Plans for the future;
* Uprated clutch, looking at a 6 puck competition clutch
* Bigger Intercooler, mine is too small, going to swap it for a top fed setup and get some custom pipework bent over the radiator for me
* Boost solenoid
* Move the boost feed to post-IC and pre-TB as I lose some over the not so efficient IC I have
* Alloy radiator - don't know why I don't already have one =S

The only thing I seem to be experiencing at the moment is a really bad vibration around 3800-4300 rpm. It feels like it's right underneath my seat so I wonder if the exhaust is rubbing or whether it's something more serious. The engine/turbo are as smooth as silk so I don't suspect it's those. More investigation needed!

Looks like you have a slick setup.
You are aware that "turning Japanese" was a song about masturbating, right?

Yeah it's getting there. Many more parts to sort and neaten up... it'll never be complete.

And yes haha, I thought it may add slight humour to the title :giggle:

This is seriousness. I've owned my car since March of '07. Still, never complete.

Updates:

Neatened up the intake setup for the turbo

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1400483115

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1400483115

Much much better for my OCD.

Also moved the feed for the actuator to post-intercooler/pre-throttle body. Now seeing 7psi in boost so I guess that's what it's rated to then!

Got a Stage 4 Sprung Competition clutch on the way, and a thick core alloy rad next month too.

Once these are in, I'll be installing a boost solenoid so I can help along the spool and PSI figures.

Feels like a never ending list... after this I need to sort a bigger/more efficient IC and some new over the rad type pipework. And I also need to get a new downpipe section made up as the current one is too restrictive.

Neatened the setup some more, and painted the IC pipe graphite grey for the time being until I re-do my intercooler setup completely.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401435509

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401435509

Just remembered looking at that pic that I need to trim down the outrageous PCV route until I get a catch can arrangement sorted.

Got a Stage 4 Sprung Competition Clutch coming in a few days so I can start looking at more power.

One thing I am worried about is a strong vibration that I'm getting higher up the rpm range, from around 5,500. I can feel it through my seat, and does sound like it's coming from the bell housing area when driving. It's very hard to trace though!

The downpipe doesn't appear to make contact with the chassis/gearbox anywhere but I wonder if it's still resonating? or could it be a flywheel issue? I don't suspect it's the engine but I'm not including the harmonic dampener in that!

Next steps:

Boost Solenoid
Bigger IC
Bigger downpipe
Alloy Rad

A couple more more exciting updates:

Picked up a Mk2.5 block, with a head that's been ported, and fitted with supertech stem seals and a cometic head gasket.

Now I need to decide whether to look at throwing some forged rods in the bottom end of leave it be for now and keep it sensible.

Also picked up a stage 4 comp clutch off the same guy.

You could say I'm excited to fit these... hehehe

I need to decide how to control the VVT, whether to get my Megasquirt upgraded or look at a standlone VVT tuner, any thoughts on that?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402297308

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402297308

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1402297308

What's with the Brits and mks? Mk2.5= some weird ass Jetta if you ask me.

NB2=face lifted VVT 2nd generation Miata.

I'm doing the same conversion, 1.6 to VVT with VVT tuner. I can't help yet, but I'll give you an update in a couple 3-4 months when it's installed.

Not sure if that's bordering on an order to use the term Nb.

I'll be continuing to use Mk's.

As for VVT I'm leaning towards ecu upgrade that way everything is consolidated to the one unit. Just need to figure out what wiring etc needs to be adjusted to suit.

Weird, isn't it?

In the US, they are called NB1-NB2.

In the Uk, they are called Mk2-Mk2.5.

In the rest of Europe, they are called NB-NBFL.

Wow I haven't updated this in a very long time.

Having to go back to my build on Mx5Nutz to remember what I did after this point!

So... I had the comp clutch fitted, still going good to this day, although it's a pain in the ass in traffic, which if any of you have ever lived in Manchester you will understand.

Then I picked up some ID1000 injectors that came up at a good price.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d52b9158cc.jpg

These have probably been on of the best purchases I've made on the car. Idle brilliant, and there's so much space for extra power in the future.

I was finding the stock downpipe I had fitted to the car somewhat restrictive, so me and a mate tried welding together a downpipe for it, which worked fine for a few days but then it started blowing. So I send the manifold back to the guy who made it, and he created a 2.75" downpipe for it, and increased the stud size from m8 to m10.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...31448c95bc.jpg

This was a much better improvement over what I had, the studs actually worked on the road and the new large downpipe made it a whole lot nicer to drive. Unfortunately I still needed to run a gasket on this between manifold and turbo because the faces weren't machined, and this inevitably disintegrated every so often, and it was a bugger to remove the turbo from the manifold because I had to drill out the turbo holes to accept the studs due to them not being perfectly lined up.

Eventually I got bored of various issues I had with it, and decided to sell the kit around October last year, with the promise to myself that if I went turbo again I would go to Flyin Miata or similar.

Around the same point I bought my first house, which comes with suitably sized garage and large driveway (we're talking British sized here!)

So, there's a good few months then where I just parked up the car and left it because it was slow and boring.

Then came September this year, where I thought bugger it, I'm getting the car back on the road and I'm buying it a turbo. I sent the ECU off to Reverant to have the firmware upgraded and the digital wideband input added. This made a massive difference to the running of the car as my firmware was ancient. I had the rusty sills repaired. I bought a Nardi wheel for it. And then I started looking at turbo kits.

Thankfully, since I sold the last kit I'd been putting money aside for whatever I did next, so I decided to order a kit from Flyin Miata. I customised some parts out, which I wish I hadn't (woops), but I was quite an excited boy when a huge box turned up at my work!

Last week I booked off work and spent the whole week working on the car.

I did the head gasket, and fitted the kit. I also added a 13 row oil cooler and thermostatic plate, and a dash swap - it was a busy week.

As part of the kit I'd bought from Flyin Miata I decided to upgrade to the inconel studs, having had loads of stud issues in the past I'm rather hoping these will be money well spent.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a043595bdf.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1f9db227d5.jpg

Anyhow, that brings me to today. I need to get the car mapped, I need to get an exhaust made up for it and then I can enjoy driving it for a while.

Future plans include respraying the car, undersealing it and building the VVT block I have in the garage. Haven't decided whether to go full blown forged or if I can just get away with the minimals for changing to forged rods. I don't want crazy power, but reliable use would be excellent.

-Lew

Epic 2 year old thread bump by the OP.

Probably the only acceptable time a 2 year old thread will be bumped on MiataTurbo.net.

Looks like you've been very busy with your build. I like the NB interior pieces, and the gauges. The mix between the new gen dash and the retro door panels is great. ID1000's... You doing E85?

I highly recommend at least doing rods if you're going into the bottom end, but if you do that you may as well do the pistons as well. Cheap insurance the way I see it.

Looking forward to this build playing out. Glad your back and posting.

Heh... There's a lot I've missed out of my update to be honest.

I'm going to try and keep this thread updated from now and join in a bit more in the community on here, it's a great place for info.

Forged rods were a minimum of the build, but I don't know how far to take the bottom end. I only ever intended to build something that could reliably make the most of the GT2560R that's with the kit. I can't see me going for a bigger turbo than that to be honest... but as they say, never say never!

Other plans, dump the power steering and fit a manual/depowered rack. I've not been a fan of PAS on this car, my old one felt better to drive and that only had a manual rack.

Also looking to upgrade to COPs of some description, I know the Toyota coils were popular at one point but now it seems people have moved onto better things, S2000 ones IIRC?

Aesthetically it would be nice to get a ducktail for the bootlid and maybe a GV rear panel and lights.

-Lew

We originally were using Toyota Cops, now we have mostly switched to using LS coils. They are a good bit stronger spark wise, and relatively cheap, at least in the US. Several vendors are now also selling brackets for the coils, along with spark plug wires.

I'll have to see if I can find a seller in the UK. If not... I guess I'll have to look at importing some. If that is going to work out too expensive then I guess I'll have to rethink.

I opened up the throttle this morning as I'm confident everything is installed and working as it should.

I'm seeing it boost creep after about 4500rpm. Actuator I think is 9psi or so, but I crept up to 14psi where I had to back off before I blow the engine.

A lot of searching online suggests many people have had this problem with a GT2560R, I don't understand why FM sell this turbo with the kit if it's such a ballache. I didn't really see any proper solutions online, some were porting them, fitting cats, etc, but I don't think I actually saw a solution to this problem.

Has anyone here resolved a boost creep like this with an internal wastegate?

I've looked for externally wastegated turbine housings but they appear to be limited to Vband rather than T25 fitment.

Lots of wastegate porting.

Is that genuinely the only option? I've seen some pictures of some porting. I imagined it would be enlarging the outlet, but they seemed to leave that alone but rather remove material from inside leading up to the wastegate. Seems like a scary thing to be doing with a brand new turbo!

Hmmmm I've just come across this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...stegate-69813/

Seems like that's the thing to do... I notice he only suggests removing metal from the lead up to the port. Do you not need to enlarge the outlet itself?

Sometimes, yes.

Well, I did some porting today...

Who knows if it'll work, if I've done enough, whether I need to enlarge the port itself. But here it is :

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...25bd8cce94.jpg

I'll be able to test it tomorrow hopefully. If all is well then I'm going to get the car booked in for a custom exhaust. I'm going to go 2.5 inch I think, that way the system is the same size the whole way through and I don't think I'll ever be wanting more than what this turbo can produce.

3" is better in every way. More spool. More topend. More fun.

Will I gain that much from going 3"? The cast elbow and downpipe from the Flyin Miata kit is 2.5".

Yes you will.

3" from your downpipe back for sure.

Does your downpipe bottle neck down to >2.5" at the end of it? If I remember correctly, my FM downpipe had that bottleneck to get it to fit with a stock cat. I'd highly recommend having a welder/exhaust shop chop that neck down off and get the downpipe to a proper 2.5" all the way.

Hmmm you know I haven't measured that point, I measured the outlet of the turbine elbow and the main pipe. Looking at it though, it looks the right size.

Seems like I should go 3" then!

That said, if my wastegate porting hasn't worked going for a 3" system is only going to make things worse?

I got the car back from the exhaust place, they have fabricated the section I needed to join the downpipe to the exhaust. The car is lovely an OEM feeling now, noise level is subtle which is nice for a change.

However, I still have boost creep, it doesn't seem as aggressive - by that I mean it creeps slower than it did.

So where do I go from here?

I'm getting a little fed up really. Given shipping costs and import duties etc this kit has cost me a fair chunk of money and I basically have a turbo that seems to be flawed by design. How I wish I'd come across this problem before I ordered!

I have several options as far as I can see:
1) Buy a different turbo that uses something like an ATP externally waste-gated turbine housing. Maybe a GTX2863R. Not a cheap way to go.
2) Take the turbine housing to a machine shop, have them weld shut the internal wastegate, then drill a hole and weld on a flange for an external wastegate much like the ATP housings.
3) Take the turbine housing and cast manifold to machine shop, weld shut the internal wastegate, machine the manifold to have an external wastegate (roughly where the "Powered by Flyin' Miata lettering is).
4) Shove a restrictor in the exhaust - not really a fix.
5) Enlarge the internal wastegate port and flap size on the current housing - doesn't look like there's a great deal of space left to widen that though.
6) Shove some forged rods in the block and turn the boost up to 18 and presumably eliminate creep - looking like the most likely - will I overcome creep at this level?

Very much welcome your thoughts on this.

-Lew

What we have found with the t3 chinacharger I use on my setups is that enlarging the wastegate hole works much better then making the channel like you did. That would be what I would look into next.

What size enlargement is required though?

I presume I could do this myself if I can purchase a larger flap and just cut away with a carbide burr again. I suppose the main thing is to ensure that there's enough metal left between the edge of the port and flap?

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d78f915246.jpg

That's the best picture I have of the back, it just doesn't look like there's much room for improvement when you factor in needing a larger flap.

I don't remember what size enlargement exactly. Nigelt and sonofthehill have some pictures in my big for sale thread and in their individual build threads. Basically what you do is use a sharpie or something to draw around the stock flap, then lift it up and clear out some space less the the drawn hole. Not sure how much actual free room there is on a T25 though, as I never looked. I know when I ran my 2554 on a begi setup with 3" exhaust I did not get creep. I don't remember if Corky did any porting though when he had my turbo.

IIRC, Nigelt enlarged his port radius by 2.5mm. you should read through the thread though. The hole is typically offset as it is enlarged so that it doesn't hang up on the WG flapper. I have no idea whether your turbo would need, want, or accommodate that much enlargement.

OK so I have been chatting with a friend, and I might take the FM mani to a machining place and have this done:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3bd3eacf49.jpg

And run an external wastegate like this:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e3d0285c29.jpg

Quite frankly it's overkill and I shouldn't have to run an EXT WG on a GT2560R. I have no problem paying for an external wastegate, the idea of spending the extra money and getting this FM kit was that it should be bulletproof and I can enjoy the car rather than panicking over all the parts - I haven't got to this stage yet, and if doing this cures my boost creep which is almost certainly will with a 38mm port then I can enjoy the car.

ps. I'll also be welding the flapper shut.

Once again, I welcome your opinion/criticism.

I did have look and it seems like people have done this themselves on this forum.

-Lew

I think you may have flow issues to the wastegate, but I'll let the more experienced chime in.

I raise the same question, why not just use the internal flap?

If the internal one just worked then I'd be sticking with it. I've ported the valley leading to the wastegate itself and that made a difference, but I still creep to 12 psi and have to let off.

One last attempt this weekend (tomorrow in fact) is to widen the port itself if I can, I believe the flapper overlaps the port by about 3mm all around, so if I can widen that by 1-2 mm then maybe it'll be enough to keep it <=10psi.

I'm quite happy to run up to 12 psi eventually, but at the moment there's no stopping the bloody creep, it just continues to rise after 5000rpm or so.

I've got a spare gtx2867r with no exhaust housing if you want a bargain on an upgrade path (I saw you mentioned it). Turbine wheel has had the edge chewed a touch so I bought a new one but it spools identically. I wouldn't have bought the new one if I had known there would be no difference.

I've only gone and fixed the boost creep!!

I took to the wastegate port itself, there was a good amount of overlap so I was able to take away a good amount of metal and it still seal. It's not as neat as my valley porting but it's functional and now holds a steady 8psi all the way.

I'll post some pics tomorrow, thanks for the help guys I can finally enjoy the car and look forward to building up the next block.

-Lew

Glad that what we suggested helped.

Yes I'm very pleased with the outcome.

Just discovered I can share pictures on here directly from my phone, here's an 'in progress' picture, for some reason the later ones I took don't quite show my work right, they make it look rougher than it is. Again used a Dremel and carbide burr.

Funnily enough I shared my work on the Mx5nutz Facebook group, got absolutely laid into by a bunch of useless twerps that were telling me I was doing it wrong, that I should be restricting the exhaust and that boost creep is when too much gas escapes the port...

Then I was accused of lying about fixing my creep and shortly after posting a video as proof I was kicked out by a mod. I guess he saved me a job.

The line you can see in the photo is where I scored the carbon away as a limit I could work to.

​​​​​https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...602eadaa80.jpg

We can be absolute assholes on here, but we also generally know our shit.

Anyone that recommends restricting the exhaust should be shot.

Aidan, I called begi awhile back to talk about wastegate porting and stephanie mentioned putting a cat and or maf back in. Intake + exhaust restriction ftw!!! :rofl:

OP, glad that porting worked out for you. I solved my 2560 creep with a v band housing and a FAB 9 ewg mani

Who else but Stephanie and BEGi hahahaha. Everytime I hear the name "BEGi"... the reputation proceeds them.

Video!



-Lew

Das It!

So I need to do some more searching, but can anyone think off the top of their head, who on here is running a GT2560R on a 1.8 that has shared both spark table and dyno plot?

I'd like to figure out what advance I can run at given boost levels so I know roughly where I can push the car too before I shove the new block in and take it to a mapper. I was sort of imagining running 12 psi but I'm a little unsure how conservative my current table is.

-Lew

https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-tim...-gt2560-90380/

Here is my dyno plot and spark table. Spark map is from FM and is untouched. Made 260 at ~13psi. But my hot side components probably flow a little better than yours. I asked Jeremy where I should increase timing if I were to do so and his answer was something along the lines of, "Start by adding 2 degrees in every cell from 8psi on up. Then interpolate the 8psi row down to the 100kpa row."

That's great cheers. At least that gives me a reasonable base to start from. I was way way behind after 4500 rpm pretty much everywhere.

-Lew

Nice work. I really like the gauge plate set up you've got going on.

Cheers!

I need to get another video really, messed around with the spark table last night. Went out and did some tuning and the thing is absolutely flying now. I have to remain fairly sensible because it's winter here, everything is wet and very cold so traction loss in 2nd & 3rd gear seems to keep happening.

I really do need to crack on and build the other engine though, I feel like I want to squeeze everything I can out of the turbo.

Also, when I'm giving it some, I tend to see water temps of up to 95C and oil at 100C. What do you guys think to these? I know there's room for improvement in regards to oil cooler position and radiator ducting but for now until the weather gets a bit bloody nicer I'd like to think these are acceptable.

-Lew

With ambient temps as they are now they seem a tad high, you're definitely going to run into some temp issues when it come to the 17 degrees north-western summer.

Hahaha 17 degrees probably sums up our summers!

I've got an Rs Aizawa front bumper to fit, and once that's on I'll be moving the oil cooler to behind one of the fog light locations, that'll certainly sort that problem. As for the rad it needs ducting, simple as. I just need to find some inspiration on how to do it, and what materials are best suited. Thankfully the bottom of the FM intercooler has mounting locations so I'm thinking of fixing a sheet between the underside of the front bumper and the intercooler which should overlap at the back to seal up to the rad, then add a slam panel cover. The hardest part is figuring out how to do the sides??

-Lew

OK, update time... not a lot has happened over the last couple of months.

Grabbed myself a carbon ducktail spoiler and bootlid which I really like.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cb710d546d.jpg

Then, I decided that it was time I bought myself a nice daily driver so that I can actually get this off the road and rebuild the thing, so I bought this:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3618a9b4d4.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cc3cbc1028.jpg

2014 Audi A6 Black Edition Multitronic
2.0 TDI Auto

Never thought I'd get excited about an automatic diesel but this thing is lovely to drive, and I don't think it looks to bad either!

So now I've taken the Mx5 off the road I've started planning the rebuild, hopefully in time for summer.

Current plans are:

Engine rebuild - I have a VVT motor sat in the garage, so I'm intending to rebuild that and put some forged rods in with stock pistons (maybe the lower comp ones from my early 1.8?). I haven't decided whether to upgrade to Ms3 and use the VVT head or stick with my Ms2 and run a non-vvt head. Ms3 is looking to be quite expensive.

Bodywork - The whole thing needs respraying, I'm intending to have a go at this myself, I've bought a large ABAC compressor which should be up to the job it's just whether I can create a spray booth in my garage. I'm also going to underseal it whilst the engine is out.

Brakes - Got myself a set of Wilwood dynalite calipers with wilwood discs and a 1" master cylinder that I will be collecting later this week.

Aside from this, that's pretty much it. I'd like to get it on track and to as many shows as possible then. And keep it off the salty winter roads!

So I'll be reading up a lot on people on here who have used forged rods with stock pistons and whether or not to suck up the expense for VVT control.

-Lew

Hmmmm apologies for the daft image sizes but they won't adjust.

badass looking ducktail

Car parts!

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3651bfd8f5.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e7862b0b5a.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...409e561625.jpg

Got them second hand although some of the parts are basically unused. Planning on getting a bias/proportioning valve to help balance things out and also a kit to space out the rear calipers and run bigger discs.

-Lew

Came here to post exactly that. Looks great!

Some more parts have arrived towards the rebuild...

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5dc37679ad.jpghttps://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...53cbabd707.jpg

Got myself a Gtx cam cover which I had powder coated black, some IL motorsport adjustable pulleys, and Eagle forged rods. Initially I was just looking to do a rod-only build and keep things sensible, but now I'm planning on just doing a full build and getting it right first time round. So I've been selling off a whole load of accumulated car parts and I've raised a good chunk of cash towards the next set of parts. The only thing I need to do now is get in touch with some engine builders to get some quotes and figure out what spec bearings and pistons I need to order.

I think the rough part list I have is:
Eagle Rods
Wiseco Pistons (8.5 CR)
ARP Head & Main studs
ACL Bearings
Boundary Engineering Oil Pump
ATI Harmonic Dampener / SuperMiata Dampener

Still got quite a few parts to collect, but I know at least one guy who has a box with the oil pump, studs, bearings and a gates timing belt for a good price, the main thing is figuring out how to get hold of the pistons and dampener cheaper... They're probably the two most expensive parts of the list and with import duty/tax importing them to the UK I'll be royally shafted. If anyone has any ideas then please PM me!

To go with this build I definitely want to sort my exhaust, the one I have currently muffles literally all sound and doesn't really make for any enjoyment whatsoever. It was pretty good N/A and loud supercharged but you could probably hear a pin drop next to my car at the moment when it's idling. There's a place that did a mid section for me a couple of miles away so I'm going to see what prices they can give me for either 2.5 or 3 inch cat-back system. Probably not going to have a great deal of silencing in it because the cars no longer a daily and if my neighbors get upset about me using the car once every couple of weekends then they can screw themselves!

I've also got a mate who part owns a body repair place, and seems to think he'd be able to get my car done for a good price so I've also got that to look forward to.

So aside from the engine itself, the other outstanding jobs are:

* Respray car and engine bay
* Fit Wilwood brakes & master cylinder (maybe a bias valve too)
* Underseal the car including wheel wells and behind front quarters and front bumper
* Duct radiator & relocate oil cooler somewhere better
* Figure out what COPs setup to go for - guessing I'm gonna need them if I'm squeezing as much boost as possible from the GT25650R I have(?)

I'll try and keep this updated as I go along.

-Lew

I'm pretty sure I have a shimmed BE VVT pump and the superdamper with 4-tooth trigger laying about somewhere. They might be with my engine builder in Holland still but I'm not sure. Same goes for the ACL bearings and main/head studs.

Certainly interested.

As I've been desperate to change my exhaust I've been contacting local exhaust builders but I wasn't too keen on the prices they were charging for the most basic setup, and then this came up for sale:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cb78cd843d.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f8cdcf59cf.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e728f42abe.jpg

It's the 2.5 inch Flyin Miata turbo exhaust which I figured would be a nice match to my Flyin Miata kit... so I collected that last night and will be fitting over the coming days. The cat itself has been cleared so it's free flowing as it was proving quite a restriction for the previous owner, this is fine for me as I would have been running a decat anyway. Hoping it free's up the exhaust a lot over my current exhaust and also adds a bit of noise too.

-Lew