V6 swapped Mx5 Project (to be named)
 

Welcome and hello all.

I originally had planned to turbo my 1.8 vvt but after factoring all the costs I figured I'll get more performance and reliability from a J32A2 swap for close to the same price if I swap it my self.

No negativity in my thread please, constructive criticism is awesome but I don't want to hear about how I'll never finish my swap. Thanks

why to do this swap.

1​​​​​. J32A2 are rated for 260hp stock.
2. Less things to wear and fail. ​​​​​​
3. A much better platform for mods.
4.A bottom end with a 500-600hp limit. ​​​​​​
5.the swap only adds 9lbs​​​​​. Quoted from Minitek
6.JV6 engines are readily available and cheap​​​​​.

Bumper of​f
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...584b9010cc.jpg

Radiator out

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3726fcffb2.jpg

Good by exhaust

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1bca1110e7.jpg

I​​​​​​ have already lined up an engine host and sold my 1.8

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...56d8594b52.jpg

Engine Hoist secured ​​​

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2315e3d3d1.jpg

Engine is out​​!
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...95b99ae918.jpg

Project status : Purchasing Minitek kit.


Called up minitek and reserved a full kit. I'll be paying on it on the next few months. ​They are letting me buy the kit in pieces, around $1500 at a time with the entire cost being close to $4k

Sourced a J32A2 for $700 shipped with less then 50k miles.

Minitek's kit seems pretty straightforward. I've done a B12 swap before so it should be pretty similar. The hardest part is probably going to be the plumbing and harness. I'm going to keep my PS and have some AC lines made. I'm also using a stock auto ecu to cut costs.

My aim is for is for 240rwhp ​​​​​,and my deadline goal is May of next year. This will be a long project that I plan to work on a little at a time.

Predicted pricing
​​​$3950​​​ - JV6 kit clutch, flywheel, exhaust, subframe, trans adapter, oil pan
$0700 - J32A2 engine 50k miles shipped
$0500 - custom Odyssey ecu and wiring harness (modified for miata tach and cluster)
$0400 - misc hoses, belts, spark plugs, Thermostat, oil, rad fluid, PS fluid
______
$5550

Notes for those who want to do the swap.

Installation guide
http://www.superfastmiatas.com/MIATA/JV6%20MIATA%20MANUAL.pdf

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3f457dcd88.png


-You want a Odyssey wiring harness, they are shorter and easier to wire in.
-​Use the stock miata ECU mount for the new ecu for the JV6
-Cut a hole next to your heater core hoses for easy installation of the new harness.
​​​-A 99- 01 TL auto ecu is needed to bypass limp mode and auto sensors.
-The J32A2 is one of the eaiser J swaps but others will work.
-There are 3 current shops that I know of that will modify the wiring harness for the miata gauge cluster.
​​​​ (New York-RPM Systems , Georgia-MiniTek and I can't remember the last I'll add it later) expect 500 or so for the conversion
​-The stock radiator can be used.
-A ring and pinion upgrade should be done to bring first gear back to a more useable range.
-The total weight gained from the swap is about 9lbs
​​​-this is a direct bolt in kit, with the proper tools it should only take a couple of days to remove the existing engine and swap the J32A2.
​-Wireing and plumping will generally be the longest part of the s​way.

lol in for unexpected costs

I'm not counting what I sold the engine for and allocating that for the unexpected costs

I feel like it's going to take another 2-3k. Prove us wrong.

5550 for an underpowered v6? i dont get it.

Its a better platform than my 1.8L

If you did supporting mods to the drive train these engines can easily handle over 500hp. The majority of fourms put the upper limits of the block at 550-600 crank hp.

With nitrous or an M90 supercharger it makes a mean platform.

a $200 ebay M90, and a $500 J32 adapter kit (you can make your self if you have access to a machine shop) with 5-6 psi (stock) of boost will net you around 400rwhp.
Bigger injectors, colder plugs, and 6-10 psi will take you to the 500rwhp mark. All that hp and you don't need to touch the bottom end of the block.

If you choose to leave it stock it will reliably make 240rwhp with out the extra complexity of a turbo or over stressing the block.

​I don't think many people can put 200,000 miles on a turbo 1.8l putting out 240-260rwhp with out putting some work in to the bottom end ​​​. I'm pretty confident that a stock Honda v6 (J32A2) will make it well over 200k before giving out.

That sounds like a challenge, I like it.
I'm expecting some extra but I went over almost everything. I'm currently putting together a check list for the swap.

I plan to share step by step on how the swap goes, pictures, invoices, and unexpected costs. ​​​​​

​​​​One of the biggest cost factor will be the engine. If I have to replace gaskets, pump, Ect those add up very quickly.

Just seems like for the cost, there are better engine options. You are talking all this HP, but you still need to come up with drivetrain upgrades to support them. I have always wanted to do a V6 swap on a miata, i think it would be a great combo. However i never felt the J series was the right way to go.

Anyways, i will stop shitting in your thread. So long as it makes you happy, it doesnt matter what i think. Rock on with it and keep us updated!

Please, I'm all for constructive criticism.

What V6 would you havehave swapped?

I plan to keep the stock hp at 240rwhp I don't think I'll have to worry about my drive train. Ive got a 1.8 diff so I doubt I'll hurt it. My 5 speed might start crying if I hook the hell out of it.

FM makes 400hp rated axles and you'll definitely want an Lsd and 6 speed if you supercharge the v6 and plan to make 400+hp. A better drive Shaft or a drive Shaft safety housing might me a good idea.

In my opinion, the only engine swap I would do while keeping the factory drivetrain is the K swap. It's 150 lbs lighter than the J swap, and is still capable of being built enough to break the drivetrain. If I did a V6 it would be an LFX, but that's obviously a lot more money than a J swap.

Either way, any engine swap that makes good power and sounds good is cool. If you can keep it under $7-8 grand and it's reliable, sweet!

I considered a K swap, but I ultimately decided against it for a couple of reasons. The Swap Kit is more expensive, and I'd have to spend a decent amount of money modifying a K to make the same hp that a stock J32A2 makes.

That and I really really want the sound of a v6.

I like the K series though, in my opinion mazda should have shipped these cars from the factory with a similar engine. ​​​​​​

I'm guessing that in reality I'll spend 6k on the swap. I don't think I missed much. I'm not counting mods like suspension, tires, ect

Down the line I could spend $2500 and make 300rwhp pretty easy​​. AEM ECU+M90+mounting kit+6 speed transmission.

For an additional​​​​ $2000 on top of that I could put down 450
Axles, drive Shaft, ring and pinion, M90 under drive pully, water meth kit.

I'm not sure​​​​​ I'd like 450hp in my miata, it sound dangerous and more than I'll ever need on a weekend cruise.

I'd be more than happy with 300hp so I might try to make that my goal one day but I'd like to see how a 240rwhp v6 feels first.

Ultimately I have a long journey ahead with a lot of work to do.

So I have a detailed spreadsheet for this swap and pricewise you are looking at least at 7k unless u can weld up a lot of parts yourself. The caveat to this build in my opinion are the following: oil pan is just over 3 in from ground, subframe has a history of breaking in race applications, the intake design is costly unless u cut open your hood, the exhaust headers also have been commonly thrown out and redone.

Welcome! I've been wanting to follow one of these J series builds for a while :)

Additionally you have to move steering rack. A lot of people here will agree that they disagree with that decision. On the facebook page you can buy a pnp harness from a vendor no need to pay a shop to do it. You also need a starter unless that came with your engine. Check the facebook page for internally swap as Paul Weibe i believe is looking to do that.

I'm cutting a hole in my hood.
My paints fucked any ways, and I'd rather save the time and money to weld it or have it welded.

I'm buying a JV6 kit from minitek, so the headers will be on them.

I'm also not planning to race it but I'll look in to welding reinforcements ​​​​​to the subframe. I'll question minitek and ask them about the possibility of it failing.

I'd love to see any spreadsheets and any advice on the swap.

Do you have a link to the wiring harness? That would be a huge help! It's basically my only fear with the swap.

The kit I'm buying from minitek comes with a starter​​​.

I'm indifferent with moving the rack ​​​, if it has to be done so be it but I thought that the new sub frame from minitek clears it? They don't mention having to move it in there installation pdf?

I'll give them a call up later today ​.

I am talking about the headers from minitec getting tossed but that's your call.

I would join the facebook page and pm me your email and Ill show you what I got. I would recommend budgeting 7-8k though for build.

Facebook page has every detail under the sun. A member is now designing a dry sump as well. That will cost about 1500 to 2000.

Oh? A dry sump would allow for more oil pan clearance wouldn't it?

What's the face book page called I'll definitely join.

Why do people toss the headers? Poor quality or flow? ​​​​

I am talking about the headers from minitec getting tossed but that's your call.

I would join the facebook page and pm me your email and Ill show you what I got. I would recommend budgeting 7-8k though for build.

Facebook page has every detail under the sun. A member is now designing a dry sump as well. That will cost about 1500 to 2000.

You need to read up on this before you so it. I almost did it, but for the aforementioned reasons I didnt. Also remember you wont be able to do it like a TRUBO where you can install ecu, tune, install injectors, tune, then install turbo, tune. You will have to do all at once and then cross your fingers. I am doing a built engine and turbo for less than your cost. HALF AS MUCH.

That's not normal though is it? What are you starting out with? The MT wisdom is that you need 3-4k at the minimum to do things right. Half of the OP's cost would put you in the sub 3k range.

To do things right you need 7k. I have personally spoken with people who pioneered and then refined the build(I also habe their spreadsheets). Wait until i can get home today so I can screenshot and upload.
5k to do jseries swap if you have resources or tools to complete some components of job yourself aka wiring harness and welding. Half of the do things right cost is 3.5k and I presently have an MKTURBO setup(which is glorious) and am going to build a vvt engine(will update build thread sometime soon). Was hoping to keep that a surprise... Minus kitty for me...

To get 230 hp I would just run a turbo on a 1.8 and be done. After all this is MT. :)

Why $1500 mk turbo
​$0200 intercooler
$0180 oil lines
$​1200 ​​ms3
$0300 misc supplies and fluids, PS, Oil, coolant, ect
$0600 Low compression pistons
$0​400 eBay rod​​s
​​​​$0400 ish for machine work
​​​​$0400 cams
​​​​$0150 full gasket kit.

How much are we at?​​​​



https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7a4f0625fe.png

This is a quote from minitek if I wanted to drive my car in and leave with a comple swap.

Note, you can find an engine and ecu for much less than what they are offering.

$1800 for a used J32A2 actually $700
$​1250 for a Wireing Harness​​ less than $500
$2400 for labor, since I'm doing it my self I can subtract that.

To hit 230 I don't think you need to get rods and pistons. Might be wrong...but on a 1.8 I think its very achievable.

I am just stating personal preference based on what I have heard and seen.
I also loves da trubo kitty goodness. :)

Here is the screenshot of someones comments on my parts list. Someone else sent me their costs ill have to dig up. I subtracted 2k from it for selling a bunch of my turbo stuff. So 7k+s your total unless u can do welding yourself.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...895c57f03a.png

This list is waaay off.

The kit is 3950 and includes the exhaust header, Y pipe and mid pipe as well as the clutch, flywheel, adapter plate, oil pan, oil pickup, clutch bearings, subframe, engine bushings and starter.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ab5ca8b811.png

I won't be doing the timing belt for another 30k miles as its a low mileage block.

​​​Im Using a stock ecu $75 vs $1341 for an AEM.

I'm also buying a block that's ready to drop in, the only gasket I'll need is an oil pan​​​​. No need for an alternator as it will already have one. I'll clean and reuse the plugs IF THEY ARE Good. I'll be using the stock injectors since I'm using a stock ecu. Also how the hell are spark plugs $50? That seems pretty inflated?

I'm cutting a hole in my hood so anything with intake is out. I also have lots of tubing, clamps and a pod filter

I'll edit there's still more stuff off ​​​

Yeah so in your scenario because you are not getting an AEM to tune it for more horses this might make some sense, but me personally I would spend the money and get it to a dyno so I could get as much out of as I could or I would just slap a turbo on the 1.8 and roll out! LOL. For the general public that is trying to do the swap they may not have as much luck with the engine procurement or the tubing, welding capability, etc. You can say the same for a turbo build: if you have the tools and spare parts handy something can be pieced together. When I am talking about build plans that include keeping the miata looking stock you will add some cost for intake modifications no doubt. My previous points and were my PERSONAL reasons not to do it. I think you should do it and don't look back #becauseracecarawesomeness

to address this: add in $500 for dyno (huge random assumption)
coolant reroute - $200 depending on how resourceful you are can be less
ev14 injectors - $200
Total: $4040

I hope those edits work. The files on the facebook group under documents will help exponentially. The group is super nice and helpful. The information is not as organized as it is on this forum though because it's facebook, but they are working on it.

230 hp
https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-tim...k-motor-66122/

hope this helps! :)

- Dyno run of J32A2 VTEC. naturally aspirated and good platform!

What if I want to make 260 reliability at the crank? The amount of money I'd have to spend would go up dramatically and at 260 crank I doubt the block would last as long as a stock JV6 unless I paid someone to put rods and pistons in it.

Down the road what if I want 300rwhp?

4000 vs ​​​5500 there are quite a few benefits to justify the 1,500 price increase. The majority being reliability, and a higher bottom end limit if you want to go FI down the line.

I would agree that a turbo 1.8 does have its place, if I had to modify the intake it would be around $300+ to have it welded. ​​​​​​If I didn't have a good source for my engine the starter, alternator and accessories add up fast.

So I can subtract this
​​$1341 for the AEM ecu
$0​400 for exhaus​​​t
$0400 for clutch
​​​​$0300 for a modified intake
​​​$0150 for injectors
$0100 for a cold air intake and piping
​​​$0060 for a shaves exhaust header
​​​$0060 for a timing belt kit
$0050 for starter
​​​$0050 for spark plugs
​​​$0050 for alternator
​​​$0050 for a throw out bearing

Hence why you should do it!!

Move forward, make it happen. I am curious.

I'm waiting on the buyer to come and pull the block, I even have a engine Hoist lined up.

I'm giving the buyer a dea​​​​​I, $300 for the engine if he helps pull it. Buyer had a 1.8vvt that blew up and I figured that we would both benefit.

This thread is exciting already!

Damn that's a helluva deal!

This is misinformation

I called minitek and confirmed that there new subframe does not change the location of the steering rack. They said that the previous kits did but they have since managed to fit everything properly.

I plan to document this with pictures​​​​​​ to prove or disprove it

That's awesome!! Damn now I want to do it again lolol

I'm taking it one step at a time, I'll be sure to measure out and check to see it its still in the same locatio​​​​​n.

I had the day off today so I took all the sheet metal and carpet/insulation from the trunk.

There was a little bit of surface rust so I sanded it down and spray painted some rust prevention underbody coat on it. ​​

I don't have a scale to weigh it all but it was quite a bit of stuff​​​​​.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cad1e932f2.jpg


I tore more of the engine down to prep it for removal

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b6a1a37592.jpg
At least I caught some of​​​​​ it.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...baf945a6f8.jpg
I'm ready to lift!

Freshly pruchased from Craigslist.

10 bucks, this car never drives under its own power ever again.

Shots fired.

I accept PayPal

Ive already paid a good chunk of the MiniTek kit off.

I'm not new to engine swaps. Ive done a b12 conversion before this is just my first car swap and its EFI over carb.

It will probably take me until next year to finish it out of my drive way but its a pretty simple and straight forward swap.
The plumbing and wiring harness will be the hardest part.

I fortunately have a few friends who are willing to help as well. If I get stuck with something or need help I just have to provide food and beer. :)

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...55a8c7e5dd.jpg
I sprayed painted the Hoist to cover all the surface rust and make it look a bit nicer.

Everything is prepared for next weekend. The buyer is supposed to come pull the block.

I finished removing the last of the hoses and the ac condenser today.

While I was under the ca​​r.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...090cc2995e.jpg
I noticed my diff was leaking, it's enough that I should probably check my fluid level and replace the seal.

I'm running a 1.8 open diff and I was planning to swap it for a lsd eventually.

lol this looks like one of those build threads that im going to find in 5 years and start reading it only to get to page 7 and the last post is going to be a picture of the non running car on a tow dolly saying you sold it

Why all the negativity?

The minitek kit literally takes all the guess work out of the swap. ​​​​

I've already paid a chunk of the kit off and when the buyer comes to take my engine I'll be half way there.

My miata has no value to me at this point. It's sentimental and no price could buy it. ​​​​​Even if it takes me a year to do this swap out of my driveway I'll still finish it, I don't abandon projects.

I've have access to a entire machine shop at work and I have all the tools required to do the swap in my basement.

By this time next year I'll have a 260hp monste​​​​r.

I think people arent too happy u can have an na 250+ hp car for cheaper than a k swap. Buuuuut i dont think youll make over 230 personally on the base tune. Good base for turbo tho!!! Keep building and disprove all the haters!

260hp in a year? plus a big heavy v6 with no room to work on anything when you mess up wiring/plumbing shit? just turbo the damn bp

[QUOTE=LownSlow616;1396914]
260hp in a year? plus a big heavy v6 with no room to work on anything when you mess up wiring/plumbing shit? just turbo the damn bp
[/QUOTE

In his defense its like 9 lbs heavier i think.

They are not very big blocks and with the aluminum oil pan and the reduced weight from the new sub frame minitek puts the swap a full 9-lbs more than stock.

Access to the wiring harness is pretty easy as long as you follow miniteks recommendation and cut a hole in your firewall next to your heater core hoses and feed the main loom through it.
The stock miata ecu mounting point is the same place you mount the new j32 ecu.

I'm hoping for around 230-240rwhp
less than 50k miles on the block
I'm going for the stock intake manifold with a pod
I'll have no mid pipe/cat. I'll have a friend weld me a custom exhaust one later.

For the $1000 extra the K swap kit costs I could buy a direct port nitrous kit with a progressive controller.

For the price to do a k swap including the cost to adapt its manifold I could almost add a supercharger

$1300 Aem ECU
$0150 Wideband O2
$0150 EV14 injectors
$0200 Ebay M90 supercharger
$0300 Misc parts, belt, intake tubing
$0500 Prankparts M90 adapter plate
OR
$0000 +$0100 for a pulley, if I just machine the M90 adapter plate myself at work


_____Total
$2,600/$2100 extra for 330-340rwhp with 5psi of boost

LOL at all the haters that don't have a V6 in there car. Good luck OP. Statistically you're probably more likely to not finish it, but that doesn't mean you won't. Just that many folks who bite off big projects never finish them, or are really slow to finish them. Just look at the build threads section for people who's builds are measured in years. I'm guilty too.... I would absolutely do the V6 honda if I were going to swap a honda in the car, screw a I4 when you can have a V6 that will sound better and have more displacement and more torque. Don't even care if it cost more, I'd still do V6 over another I4 swap.

That's all I was implying, it's a huge project and 99%of them started in the driveway don't get finished.

best of luck, watching for relults.

I agree. V6 is most bestest

Especially when the V6 doesn't need motor mounts! :troll:

Psh Front motor mounts just get in the way, everyone should just remove them. ;)

I'm not worried about the lack of front mounts, minitek has had time to refine there subframe design. There is also a pretty simple mod using a small piece of steel that you can use to brace the new subframe and reinforce it. ​​​​​

I can just grab some scrap steel laying around work, cut it and use maintenances drill press to knock a couple of holes in it. ​​​​​​ I might not even bother.

From this day on I shall refer to this thread in case I should ever have to explain the complex mechanism of "man math".

Here is some motivation for you.

Hnggggg those noises.

I'd be OK with it sounding like this​​​​.

So looking at costs and how much I can pay towards the kit, I plan on having the subframe, transmission adapter plate and engine mounts shipped by April 13th.

That will eliminate the most expensive portion of the kit. Should be smooth swapping from there.


Also for those interested, minitek finished there prototype M90 supercharger kit and are in the installation and test phase.

An upgraded clutch and clutch pressure plate will probably be required. The Stock 5-6 psi of boost should generate around 330 rwhp. They will provide the correct part numbers as the clutch and pressure plate have to match up, miata clutch and Honda B series pressure plate I believe.

You'll obviously need a Standalone fuel management system, aftermarket injectors and a upgraded fuel pump. You will probably want a 6 speed unit as well as the 5 speeds will probably grenade at that point.

I've heard EV-14 injectors are cheap and should work well with the kit. (not confirmed)

Best of luck man, we've been running our J35A4 swap for a season now and ready for round 2. The engine is rock solid, the swap definitely takes some customization, adjustments, and fab work to get it right. but you'll find a lot of things need upgrading to make it a serious track or racecar. We are going to detune and run in GP1 this year with WRL and Group 4 with AER. Let me know if you have any questions, I never made a build thread though...

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b77ec8b530.jpg

Thats Awesome!

Thanks for the offer for the help, I'll definitely hit you up when I run in to some trouble.


Off to remove my rims and tires.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3e0f0821d8.jpg

Drilled and slotted rotors are on the buy list, I also need to touch up the paint on the calipers.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2b91a7ee4d.jpg



I removed the majority of the wiring harness and a few of the bell housing bolts.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e39c6a1490.jpg

Drilled and slotted rotors are garbage...why would you waste money on that?


Good luck with the build...need more J swaps on this site. I've raced a couple J powered cars (not miatas) and the sound is amazing...

To be fair I might not actually do drilled and slotted, I just want something coated so it wont rust as bad

I dont have any exhaust plans yet but I defiantly dont plan to skimp and buy a horrible sounding fart can.

Thanks! With the NB generation starting to come down in price and go up in age I'd bet that we will see more and more swaps as engines fail and Mx5 owners look to do a more powerful conversion.

Does that engine poke 4 inches above the hood?