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To do things right you need 7k. I have personally spoken with people who pioneered and then refined the build(I also habe their spreadsheets). Wait until i can get home today so I can screenshot and upload.
5k to do jseries swap if you have resources or tools to complete some components of job yourself aka wiring harness and welding. Half of the do things right cost is 3.5k and I presently have an MKTURBO setup(which is glorious) and am going to build a vvt engine(will update build thread sometime soon). Was hoping to keep that a surprise... Minus kitty for me...
To get 230 hp I would just run a turbo on a 1.8 and be done. After all this is MT.
To do things right you need 7k. I have personally spoken with people who pioneered and then refined the build(I also habe their spreadsheets). Wait until i can get home today so I can screenshot and upload.
5k to do jseries swap if you have resources or tools to complete some components of job yourself aka wiring harness and welding. Half of the do things right cost is 3.5k and I presently have an MKTURBO setup(which is glorious) and am going to build a vvt engine(will update build thread sometime soon). Was hoping to keep that a surprise... Minus kitty for me...
To get 230 hp I would just run a turbo on a 1.8 and be done. After all this is MT.
$1500 mk turbo
$0200 intercooler
$0180 oil lines
$1200 ms3
$0300 misc supplies and fluids, PS, Oil, coolant, ect
$0600 Low compression pistons
$0400 eBay rods
$0400 ish for machine work
$0400 cams
$0150 full gasket kit.
How much are we at?
This is a quote from minitek if I wanted to drive my car in and leave with a comple swap.
Note, you can find an engine and ecu for much less than what they are offering.
$1800 for a used J32A2 actually $700
$1250 for a Wireing Harness less than $500
$2400 for labor, since I'm doing it my self I can subtract that.
Here is the screenshot of someones comments on my parts list. Someone else sent me their costs ill have to dig up. I subtracted 2k from it for selling a bunch of my turbo stuff. So 7k+s your total unless u can do welding yourself.
Here is the screenshot of someones comments on my parts list. Someone else sent me their costs ill have to dig up. I subtracted 2k from it for selling a bunch of my turbo stuff. So 7k+s your total unless u can do welding yourself.
This list is waaay off.
The kit is 3950 and includes the exhaust header, Y pipe and mid pipe as well as the clutch, flywheel, adapter plate, oil pan, oil pickup, clutch bearings, subframe, engine bushings and starter.
I won't be doing the timing belt for another 30k miles as its a low mileage block.
Im Using a stock ecu $75 vs $1341 for an AEM.
I'm also buying a block that's ready to drop in, the only gasket I'll need is an oil pan. No need for an alternator as it will already have one. I'll clean and reuse the plugs IF THEY ARE Good. I'll be using the stock injectors since I'm using a stock ecu. Also how the hell are spark plugs $50? That seems pretty inflated?
I'm cutting a hole in my hood so anything with intake is out. I also have lots of tubing, clamps and a pod filter
The kit is 3950 and includes the exhaust headers, Y pipe and mid pipe as well as the clutch, flywheel, and bearings, starter. I won't be doing the timing belt for another 30k miles
Im Using a stock ecu $75 vs $1341 for an AEM.
I'm also buying a block that's ready to drop in, the only gasket I'll need is an oil pan. No need for an alternator as it will already have one. I'll clean and reuse the plugs IF THEY ARE Good. I'll be using the stock injectors since I'm using a stock ecu
I'm cutting a hole in my hood so anything with intake is out. I also have lots of tubing, clamps and a pod filter
I'll edit there's still more stuff off
Yeah so in your scenario because you are not getting an AEM to tune it for more horses this might make some sense, but me personally I would spend the money and get it to a dyno so I could get as much out of as I could or I would just slap a turbo on the 1.8 and roll out! LOL. For the general public that is trying to do the swap they may not have as much luck with the engine procurement or the tubing, welding capability, etc. You can say the same for a turbo build: if you have the tools and spare parts handy something can be pieced together. When I am talking about build plans that include keeping the miata looking stock you will add some cost for intake modifications no doubt. My previous points
The caveat to this build in my opinion are the following: oil pan is just over 3 in from ground, subframe has a history of breaking in race applications, the intake design is costly unless u cut open your hood, the exhaust headers also have been commonly thrown out and redone.
and
Additionally you have to move steering rack.
were my PERSONAL reasons not to do it. I think you should do it and don't look back #becauseracecarawesomeness
to address this:
$1500 mk turbo
$0200 intercooler - $60 one from ebay works fine ask shuiend
$0180 oil lines $1200 ms3 950 actually
$0300 misc supplies and fluids, PS, Oil, coolant, ect $0600 Low compression pistons
$0400 eBay rods no need to build it if you can get 220 to 230 $0400 ish for machine work same as above $0400 cams same
$0150 full gasket kit.
add in $500 for dyno (huge random assumption)
coolant reroute - $200 depending on how resourceful you are can be less
ev14 injectors - $200
Total: $4040
I hope those edits work. The files on the facebook group under documents will help exponentially. The group is super nice and helpful. The information is not as organized as it is on this forum though because it's facebook, but they are working on it.
y8s has been at 250 for years.
i was at 250 with no problems.
many others call 250 on stock rods the "limit".
I'd say 250 is as good a guess as any.
Btw its torque, not power you should be worried about, and your tuning ability will determine whether it lasts or doesn't.
I've seen people blow up at 200
*edit; this is assuming street car. for track I'd listen to hustley and stay closer to 200
Yeah so in your scenario because you are not getting an AEM to tune it for more horses this might make some sense, but me personally I would spend the money and get it to a dyno so I could get as much out of as I could or I would just slap a turbo on the 1.8 and roll out! LOL. For the general public that is trying to do the swap they may not have as much luck with the engine procurement or the tubing, welding capability, etc. You can say the same for a turbo build: if you have the tools and spare parts handy something can be pieced together. When I am talking about build plans that include keeping the miata looking stock you will add some cost for intake modifications no doubt. My previous points and were my PERSONAL reasons not to do it. I think you should do it and don't look back #becauseracecarawesomeness
to address this:
add in $500 for dyno (huge random assumption)
coolant reroute - $200 depending on how resourceful you are can be less
ev14 injectors - $200
Total: $4040
I hope those edits work. The files on the facebook group under documents will help exponentially. The group is super nice and helpful. The information is not as organized as it is on this forum though because it's facebook, but they are working on it.
What if I want to make 260 reliability at the crank? The amount of money I'd have to spend would go up dramatically and at 260 crank I doubt the block would last as long as a stock JV6 unless I paid someone to put rods and pistons in it.
Down the road what if I want 300rwhp?
4000 vs 5500 there are quite a few benefits to justify the 1,500 price increase. The majority being reliability, and a higher bottom end limit if you want to go FI down the line.
I would agree that a turbo 1.8 does have its place, if I had to modify the intake it would be around $300+ to have it welded. If I didn't have a good source for my engine the starter, alternator and accessories add up fast.
So I can subtract this
$1341 for the AEM ecu
$0400 for exhaust
$0400 for clutch
$0300 for a modified intake
$0150 for injectors
$0100 for a cold air intake and piping
$0060 for a shaves exhaust header
$0060 for a timing belt kit
$0050 for starter
$0050 for spark plugs
$0050 for alternator
$0050 for a throw out bearing
That's close to $3000 I'm saving by taking a couple of short cuts in the swap.
Additionally you have to move steering rack. A lot of people here will agree that they disagree with that decision.
This is misinformation
I called minitek and confirmed that there new subframe does not change the location of the steering rack. They said that the previous kits did but they have since managed to fit everything properly.
I plan to document this with pictures to prove or disprove it
10 bucks, this car never drives under its own power ever again.
I accept PayPal
Ive already paid a good chunk of the MiniTek kit off.
I'm not new to engine swaps. Ive done a b12 conversion before this is just my first car swap and its EFI over carb.
It will probably take me until next year to finish it out of my drive way but its a pretty simple and straight forward swap.
The plumbing and wiring harness will be the hardest part.
I fortunately have a few friends who are willing to help as well. If I get stuck with something or need help I just have to provide food and beer.
02-22-2017, 03:25 PM
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