Michael13

Second attempt, probably shorter than the first.

Intro thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/meet-gree...ts-n00b-83540/

I've owned a 1991 British Racing Green SE Miata for about 5 years. It was originally purchased from a family friend, who only drove it to northside Indy's bar/restaurant area, with 23,xxx miles on it. It currently has 31,xxx miles.



The original owner, as stated above, drove it almost exclusively a few miles down the road from his house on nice days to an area of Indianapolis that has a lot of bars and restaurants called Broad Ripple. Therefore, door dings:



There are a few more scrapes, dents and dings but its not terrible. The car came with, more or less, every available option, VLSD, tonneau, soft top boot, CD, A/C, PS but no ABS or power mirrors. It also came with a hardtop. However, the PO never used it and improperly stored it.




That being said, the chassis is straight and rust free.

I'm looking to turn it into a fun summer car. Stiffer chassis, better suspension, decent stereo, 200-235 WHP and rock solid reliability. I do know how to turn a wrench but it has been a few years since I have torn a car completely apart. My fabrication skills are non-existent or at least untested.

Michael13

As it sits the car is entirely stock except for an Alpine CDE-123 receiver and an FM clutch happy meal. The clutch is about four or so years old so I believe that I have the previous version that people bitched about slightly less than the new version. The transmission doesn't shift great, but with a burned up clutch at 23,xxx miles, I'm guessing the original owner wasn't all that adept at driving a manual transmission. That being said, I've ordered a 5X Racing shifter rebuild kit with the brass bushing.

With my modest power goals in mind, basic plans are as follows, roughly in order:

New Speakers

The stock ones are more or less blown and I hate being stuck in traffic or on the interstate without. I'm looking at Clearwaters and I do have the headrest speakers but, with the mixed reviews they've received, I'll look around a bit more before pulling the trigger.

FM Frame Rails and Butterfly Brace

My frame rails are perfect and I'd like them to stay that way. Plus, this chassis needs some Viagra. There is an NB sitting in a junkyard that I'd like to steal the brake caliper brackets and seatbelt brace from, if they are still there when I get around to doing it.

Bilstein eBay Coilovers

Better ride than stock with stiffer spring rates? Yes please. Although my perusal of used bilsteins has not been very successful (they aren't much cheaper than new) this still seems like the best bet. QA1 springs around 450/300 and ISC rear tophats. RB front bar and big Mazda rear.

Konig Helium 15x6.5in wheels and 205/50-15 Falken Azenis RT-615K tires

I'm on the worst all seasons ever made right now. They may outlive me. Also, I don't need 8in wide wheels for 200 hp, these should offer more than enough grip.

1.8L Brakes

With blank rotors and Porterfield R4S pads. I had these pads on the DSM and liked them.

MS3x

I'd like it to run reliably, over long distances eventually.

99-00 1.8

Better head than NA 1.8 without the hassle of dealing with VVT. I realize that it has never been easier to transplant a VVT, and it may end up with one if that is what is available for cheap, but I'd rather just have the plain Jane 99 head.

Turbo

GT2560R
Cast manifold from either FM or BEGi
Precision 350HP intercooler
ID 1000 injectors
blah blah blah

We do have some very good fabrication shops in the area that I might look to for I/C pipes and downpipe/exhaust. That being said, in my experience, cast manifolds are more reliable, a key point in this build.

I realize that I could make the power levels that I am looking for with a GT2554R, but the 2560 should run at slightly lower IATs, incrementally increasing reliability. Also, should I ever drive up a mountain, it should be able to maintain power better than its smaller brethren.

Obviously I have glossed over the details. I'm sure that most of you are familiar with them. And this is the second time I've typed this post after a stupid n00b log-in error.

Open to all comments and suggestions.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

If you plan on MS3, setting up a VVT head shouldn't be that much more of a hassle. For VVT solenoid, just pull power from injector harness, then ground at megasquirt. I guess just dialing in the right PID values, but the MS guru's here have some good information/tables.

I ended up getting a VVT head from 18psi cheaper (and more available) than I could find a bp4w unicorn head. If you do find a head, I have a wrinkle red valve cover for you

Monk

iTrader: (3)

That's a pretty modest power goal for that setup.
What are you planning to use for a wideband?
Also, I would really think hard about your decision to use those 6.5 wheels.
You might not "need" wider tires, but you might enjoy your car much more with them.

Not jealous of your ridiculously low mileage BRG. Not one bit.

Michael13

Psyber: I know it's not that much more difficult with an ms3x. But the additional oil pressure requirements, mounting changes due to the head and IM design make me cautious. That being said, I am not opposed to it, but my preference would be the BP4W head.

Monk: Innovative LM-1. Too much grip would kill the hooning fun. I'd like to be able to slide it at sane speeds. This build is going to prioritize fun over out and out speed. I'll still be running 200 treadwear tires, if that's not enough grip then I'll have to rethink things at a later date. I've had a conversation with a local Miata guy who got my point, he admitted sliding around in a stock powered Miata on all seasons was more fun on the street than super sticky tires.

Monk

iTrader: (3)

Please tell me you aren't talking about drifting a low mileage BRG.

Michael13

Dear God no. What do you take me for, an unwashed heathen?

Monk

iTrader: (3)

Phew. For a second I thought I was going to have to drive down there and burn your cottage down. We can be friends again.

Michael13

Maybe I should rephrase my previous statement. I never plan on tracking the car. It will see the occasional autocross, but I'll never be competing or competitive. I simply want a very well rounded and capable sports car. Tires that break away progressively are a part of that. Consider everything that makes a stock Miata an absolute blast. Then turn it up just a bit. Compare a Mk.1 Elise with the current generation. Those are the kind of changes I'm trying to make.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

I just made an assumption that if you ever went down this route you'd be replacing the oil/water pumps and timing belt under category maintenance...a vvt oil pump billet high flow or not would work on any 1.8 setup.

There's little difference between the bp4w and the bp6d head except for the VVT mechanism. Ports and flanges are from the same cast, iirc, which differ from the NA 1.8's.

Either way, looking forward to more cat pictures.

Michael13

I was under the impression that the fitting of things like an aftermarket FPR or TSE's COPs was complicated by the added bulk of the VVT mechanism. And yes, the oil/water pumps, etc. would be changed.

I suppose I can get some pictures of the cats.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

You won't need aftermarket FPR for the power you listed.

You will need to run a NB2 rail but use an NA8 FPR flipped upside down. This fits both heads.

You're right about the cops. Stock nb2 would wire in easy if you take a peek at the VVT in an NA thread. There are also FAB9 kits available. Just have to decide if you want to go sequential or wasted. It's not any more difficult, and the parts are all the same. Essentially, just find a head. Everything else is essentially the same except Toyota cops

Michael13

Yeah, I knew that I wouldn't need an aftermarket FPR, and if I'm going to dig into the ignition I'd go sequential spark.

On the plus side, my 5X shifter rebuild kit ships today, so expect an update early next week. Super exciting stuff!