Ze Potato Build
#42
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Yea. I have all the Miataroadster PS delete plugs, and new poly bushings. I may just delete it proper and be done with it. Ugh. the "while I'm in there" list is looooong at this point.
As far as intercooler I hit the easy button. Went with the FM silicone pipes. Since my mani puts the turbo much higher and a bit forward of where the FMII sits, I ended up getting another 45* coupler and a 2" joiner. For the intercooler I have a newer-style FM unit.. at least until I pull the trigger on a treadstone or Fab9 stage 2. We'll see how IATs are up here at dry elevation.
As far as intercooler I hit the easy button. Went with the FM silicone pipes. Since my mani puts the turbo much higher and a bit forward of where the FMII sits, I ended up getting another 45* coupler and a 2" joiner. For the intercooler I have a newer-style FM unit.. at least until I pull the trigger on a treadstone or Fab9 stage 2. We'll see how IATs are up here at dry elevation.
#43
Yea. I have all the Miataroadster PS delete plugs, and new poly bushings. I may just delete it proper and be done with it. Ugh. the "while I'm in there" list is looooong at this point.
As far as intercooler I hit the easy button. Went with the FM silicone pipes. Since my mani puts the turbo much higher and a bit forward of where the FMII sits, I ended up getting another 45* coupler and a 2" joiner. For the intercooler I have a newer-style FM unit.. at least until I pull the trigger on a treadstone or Fab9 stage 2. We'll see how IATs are up here at dry elevation.
As far as intercooler I hit the easy button. Went with the FM silicone pipes. Since my mani puts the turbo much higher and a bit forward of where the FMII sits, I ended up getting another 45* coupler and a 2" joiner. For the intercooler I have a newer-style FM unit.. at least until I pull the trigger on a treadstone or Fab9 stage 2. We'll see how IATs are up here at dry elevation.
#44
The previous owner of my friend's car just cut the hardlines and left them open for that.power steering delete. Other than spewing fluid everywhere (how is there still some in the rack!) It has worked fine for the 4k miles my friend has owned the car. Doing it right is on the list to get to though.
#46
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Well... Day 4 into swap (leisurely pace).
Things that are good :
-Pulling motor is an afternoon affair now. Not a single bolt/bracket/shenanigan gave me grief on the way out.
- Mocked up turbo on motor. Everything looks like it clears. This 6758 is a bit bigger than the 2560 that Tim ran on it prior. Hope the WG actuator clears the hood.
-It's warmer today.
Things that are not so good :
-Found out that intake cam seal was leaking like a bitch. Everything was hidden behind timing plate and engine covers. Front of engine is FILTHY.
-Not entirely sure intercooler silicone piping will line up after looking closer. This damn EFR is a long sonnofabitch.
-Water mixing manifold was leaking from prior weld of the small-line-nipple. Need to see if I can figure out where it was leaking from. Maybe just drill it and tap a 1/8npt plug.
In other news, WTF is up with green-tipped spark plugs? 1 is on the left, and ignore #3's bent strap. Dropped that one off the bench... Some quick google-fu and it seems like that's from running too hot of a heat range? Figured the NGK 6 range would be ok for Naturally aspirated. Compression and leak-down are awesome, so no headgasket issues, never consumed oil or coolant. Any spark-plug reading masters out there that want to clue me in?
Things that are good :
-Pulling motor is an afternoon affair now. Not a single bolt/bracket/shenanigan gave me grief on the way out.
- Mocked up turbo on motor. Everything looks like it clears. This 6758 is a bit bigger than the 2560 that Tim ran on it prior. Hope the WG actuator clears the hood.
-It's warmer today.
Things that are not so good :
-Found out that intake cam seal was leaking like a bitch. Everything was hidden behind timing plate and engine covers. Front of engine is FILTHY.
-Not entirely sure intercooler silicone piping will line up after looking closer. This damn EFR is a long sonnofabitch.
-Water mixing manifold was leaking from prior weld of the small-line-nipple. Need to see if I can figure out where it was leaking from. Maybe just drill it and tap a 1/8npt plug.
In other news, WTF is up with green-tipped spark plugs? 1 is on the left, and ignore #3's bent strap. Dropped that one off the bench... Some quick google-fu and it seems like that's from running too hot of a heat range? Figured the NGK 6 range would be ok for Naturally aspirated. Compression and leak-down are awesome, so no headgasket issues, never consumed oil or coolant. Any spark-plug reading masters out there that want to clue me in?
#48
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Plugs were in for ~7 months and about 8k street miles. 4k of those miles on stock coils, 4k on TSE COP conversion. Lots of high revs, and load. Mountain passes are a favorite of mine. Afr's were 15.3-15.5 in cruise 14-14.2 in moderate load 13.8-14 around peak torque in load. Right before removing engine car was driven VERY hard. Burn outs, launches, general hooning, acting lile I was 16 again .
Oh well. Ill see how the new plugs do during clutch break in/low boost time. Ill pull them before turning things up.
Oh well. Ill see how the new plugs do during clutch break in/low boost time. Ill pull them before turning things up.
#49
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Made something at work today
I plan on doing a soviet-styleeverything heater-hose return. The hard-pipe ends up contacting my manifold and I just don't want to deal with it. I ended up cobbling this together at work today.
-OG '94 front coolant inlet piece removed when m-tuned re-route installed
-3/8 npt to 5/8 barb
-epoxy
I think with the angles I will be able to use the original upper radiator hose to go from the radiator to the inlet. I hope. I haven't gotten to mock it up on the car since my motor is still sitting on the floor.
Looking at in in the pictures... doubt it will fit. But will try nonetheless. For science.
If this doesn't end up working, a AN10 bung will be welded onto my old mixing manifold and I'll just run a flipped mixing manifold like everyone else.
I plan on doing a soviet-style
-OG '94 front coolant inlet piece removed when m-tuned re-route installed
-3/8 npt to 5/8 barb
-epoxy
I think with the angles I will be able to use the original upper radiator hose to go from the radiator to the inlet. I hope. I haven't gotten to mock it up on the car since my motor is still sitting on the floor.
Looking at in in the pictures... doubt it will fit. But will try nonetheless. For science.
If this doesn't end up working, a AN10 bung will be welded onto my old mixing manifold and I'll just run a flipped mixing manifold like everyone else.
#50
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More Happenings
-Depowered rack via Miataroadster plugs and Superpro poly bushings.
-No one wanted to weld my pinion today. Called a bunch of places. One shop would do it... but for $125
-Poly bushings in Diff. Soviet method FTW! (Harbor freight ball-joint bits + 3-jaw puller).
-Assembled Manifold on motor to see where I need to drill for oil. Thursday I drill. (been saying that for two weeks now ) Also, my engine stand broke. Good thing my engine wasn't on it. So that's why it's ghetto-ville with my motor sitting on 2x4s and closed cell foam.
-Depowered rack via Miataroadster plugs and Superpro poly bushings.
-No one wanted to weld my pinion today. Called a bunch of places. One shop would do it... but for $125
-Poly bushings in Diff. Soviet method FTW! (Harbor freight ball-joint bits + 3-jaw puller).
-Assembled Manifold on motor to see where I need to drill for oil. Thursday I drill. (been saying that for two weeks now ) Also, my engine stand broke. Good thing my engine wasn't on it. So that's why it's ghetto-ville with my motor sitting on 2x4s and closed cell foam.
#51
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Positive Pressure Party Continues
Had a few hours today before the snow rolled in to work on the assembly. Working at a rather slow pace, but making sure everything is as good as I can make it.
Today's list of festivities :
-Drilled and tapped and jb-welded oil pan.
-Made up a handful of AN-lines
-Pretty sure I caught a cold. Been extra stuffy all day.
Oil pan Drill-n-Tap :
Swear to god there's JB weld on it. Slathered up the first 4-6 threads of the fitting and she went in like a champ. Tapped to juuust the right depth. The MBSP is a close 4-5mm away from the inside of the pan. Think I did alright.
AN Line Time
Made a handful of lines today that I could mock up on the engine. Made the Oil drain and the Coolant feed line. Because the EFR hangs pretty far out there, pretty much on top of the shelf my oil drain isn't the perfect straight plumb to the pan. Also have to clear the steering column as well. Pretty sure it worked out successful. The coolant feed goes from a spare 1/8npt fitting on the back of the m-tuned re-route, snakes along the Valve cover with some nifty cushion clamps, and drops into the EFR. Hindsight I may want to get a 30* fitting at the CHRA because I'm not super stoked on how close the line is to the collector of the manifold. Also mocked up the FM 'round the back oil feed. All in all my Motor looks like a squid with all the lines loosely sitting everywhere. Oh well, progress!
ALL LINES Consist of Setrab or Aeroquip fittings mated to Setrab/Mocal braided stainless AN10/6 line with Black Sausage Crew firesleeve keeping the cozy.
Black Sausage Crew Checking In!
Had a few hours today before the snow rolled in to work on the assembly. Working at a rather slow pace, but making sure everything is as good as I can make it.
Today's list of festivities :
-Drilled and tapped and jb-welded oil pan.
-Made up a handful of AN-lines
-Pretty sure I caught a cold. Been extra stuffy all day.
Oil pan Drill-n-Tap :
Swear to god there's JB weld on it. Slathered up the first 4-6 threads of the fitting and she went in like a champ. Tapped to juuust the right depth. The MBSP is a close 4-5mm away from the inside of the pan. Think I did alright.
AN Line Time
Made a handful of lines today that I could mock up on the engine. Made the Oil drain and the Coolant feed line. Because the EFR hangs pretty far out there, pretty much on top of the shelf my oil drain isn't the perfect straight plumb to the pan. Also have to clear the steering column as well. Pretty sure it worked out successful. The coolant feed goes from a spare 1/8npt fitting on the back of the m-tuned re-route, snakes along the Valve cover with some nifty cushion clamps, and drops into the EFR. Hindsight I may want to get a 30* fitting at the CHRA because I'm not super stoked on how close the line is to the collector of the manifold. Also mocked up the FM 'round the back oil feed. All in all my Motor looks like a squid with all the lines loosely sitting everywhere. Oh well, progress!
ALL LINES Consist of Setrab or Aeroquip fittings mated to Setrab/Mocal braided stainless AN10/6 line with Black Sausage Crew firesleeve keeping the cozy.
Black Sausage Crew Checking In!
#52
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Progress, Hiccups, and Facepalms
Good Things :
-Resealed front of 6-speed, it had been leaking through one of the front-plate bolt holes. Ended up doing a new input shaft seal, cleaned and re-did the RTV gasket. Fresh Amsoil MTG.
- FM2 clutch install with man throw out bearing.
- Bolted **** together
Hiccups :
- Need '99+ axles. Forgot to tell Abe that I have Ye-old-school (yet still perfectly functional and excellent feeling) 2-piece axles. Soooo yea. No way in hell they'll clear that portion of the exhaust.
Utter Failures :
Turbo no hit chassis??
-Finally got the motor dropped in, and lo and behold my compressor housing hits the shock-tower. The 6758 is waaay bigger of a turbo then Tim ever ran on this manifold. Should have seen this coming. Hate myself. Ughhh. Clocking the cover all stupid allows it to clear, but that'll throw off all my intercooler routing plans.
May just 'dimple' that part of the shock tower in. We'll see.
Aaaaaaannnnddd I need to trim the 'shelf'. Didn't think I needed to do this, but I guess When Tim made this setup his shelf was pre-trimmed. Not stokked. Need to rip the motor out again to get access to that area to do this. *****.
In summary :
Good Things :
-Resealed front of 6-speed, it had been leaking through one of the front-plate bolt holes. Ended up doing a new input shaft seal, cleaned and re-did the RTV gasket. Fresh Amsoil MTG.
- FM2 clutch install with man throw out bearing.
- Bolted **** together
Hiccups :
- Need '99+ axles. Forgot to tell Abe that I have Ye-old-school (yet still perfectly functional and excellent feeling) 2-piece axles. Soooo yea. No way in hell they'll clear that portion of the exhaust.
Utter Failures :
Turbo no hit chassis??
-Finally got the motor dropped in, and lo and behold my compressor housing hits the shock-tower. The 6758 is waaay bigger of a turbo then Tim ever ran on this manifold. Should have seen this coming. Hate myself. Ughhh. Clocking the cover all stupid allows it to clear, but that'll throw off all my intercooler routing plans.
May just 'dimple' that part of the shock tower in. We'll see.
Aaaaaaannnnddd I need to trim the 'shelf'. Didn't think I needed to do this, but I guess When Tim made this setup his shelf was pre-trimmed. Not stokked. Need to rip the motor out again to get access to that area to do this. *****.
In summary :
#58
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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Naw, they are brand new. I scored a 30% off coupon so it was like $50 an axle.
Idk how i missed this thread before. Need to go read from the beginning. is much sexy.
Idk how i missed this thread before. Need to go read from the beginning. is much sexy.
#60
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Damn. I ordered these :
CV Axle Shaft A 1 Cardone Constant Velocity Drive Axle Fits 99 05 Mazda Miata | eBay
Because the guys at my local vatozone couldnt find a part number that was avilable.
CV Axle Shaft A 1 Cardone Constant Velocity Drive Axle Fits 99 05 Mazda Miata | eBay
Because the guys at my local vatozone couldnt find a part number that was avilable.