18"x12"x3" EBAY Mount ?
 

For those of you running the 18"x12"x3" ebay IC, could you please post pics of how you did it? I'd like to try and have all the supplies I'll need handy before I yank the bumper cover. I tried searching for said pics, but found mostly wide/short ICs instead of this fella.

Hoping to install the IC next weekend, although I might settle for modifying the downpipe if I can't find pics before then. Stay tuned, my build thread is actually going to start soon ;)

18"x12"x3" core size. Two steel flat stock pieces running to my rad bottom and one running to the steel brace behind the bumper support to the flat top of the IC secured with stainless sheet metal screws. Custom app, but does give you an idea of fit. Those big metric threaded bosses are good and strong for mounting. Flat stock comes from the hardware store.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...upcar/IC08.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...upcar/IC09.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...upcar/IC05.jpg

i bolted mine straight down into the attached bungs through the radiator support brace. i don't have A/C so I had plenty of room.

http://www.miatamx5.com/msmturbo/turbo-039.jpg

mine is almost exactly that size, I mounted it with some all thread through the rad support.

like m3cup cars except all thread at the top through the bungs.

anyone with a stock radiator and A/C want to contribute ;) I appreciate the ideas so far. M2s flat stock idea is probably along the lines I'll take.

I had pics, cant find them.

basically two s-curved alumin pieces.

bolted to the top bungs, then screwed down onto the shelf from above, covered with my radiator plate so you cant see them ;)

Scott, were you able to use the oem hood latch? I'm also considering this I/C and want to keep A/C

ark- have you bought yours yet? Did you read JasonC's post regarding the air flow thru his tackdog IC that's tube and fin? Since you're running a/c, you might consider the same size IC as tube and fin just to get some more air to the condenser and rad.
here it is

I don't think there's a problem using the OE hood latch. Any interference could be resolved with tin snips OR you could just drop it down some. Mine was removed originally to make room for the oil cooler (which is now gone from that location).

i set the bar pretty low, but you gotta do better than this

yeah, any taller and it wouldn't fit. i didnt have to move one thing to make it fit. only trim the undertray and front splitter.

Already in the garage with a thin coat of satin black on it... Not too worried about it.

I haven't been able to find tube & fin I/C's on ebay for cheap, anyone else?

i saw one a few weeks ago. same 18x12x2.5 core. would be perfect!



yeah here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Inter...spagenameZWDVW

Same number of tubes as the bar and plate of equal core size too.

this is an NB with AC, i hop this helps, but i just did this IC this weekend with MUSANOVIC
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q...Picture067.jpg
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q...Picture068.jpg
i have never posted pics here so i hope this works...ill try to upload more of the IC mounts

here we go, i hope this helps you get an idea of how to do yours...GL
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q...Picture071.jpg
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q...Picture070.jpg
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q...Picture069.jpg

Yes, stock radiator and A/C. I took a slightly different approach. I wanted as much space between the ic and ac condenser. This configuration is working very well.

Here's a couple of horrible pictures and a description of the install:
https://www.miataturbo.net/showpost....5&postcount=14
Entire thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/intercooler-fan-12423/

The intercooler works so well that I don't think the fan and sprayer are really necessary or at least probably don't pay back enough to justify the extra work and cost.

http://images28.fotki.com/v1001/phot...jpg?1189383635

:rofl:

Thanks!

Sorry, I didn't click this obviously.

Ben! I didn't know you made two hoods! :gay:

Damn, very helpful indeed. Thanks for all the posts guys. I should be in good shape for the weekend at this point.

Post pics when you are done. :)

I'm not sure yet about the 18x12x3 core bar&plate, 18x12x3 tube&fin, OR:

a 21x9x2.75 B&P
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...154806432&rd=1

or a 22x7x2.5 B&P
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...154784580&rd=1

the best I can tell, BEGI's I/C's are 18x7.5x3 B&P.

I have no problem building an air scoop for use with the B&P's as long as I can miss the A/C crap. Ideally I'd want the I/C centered too.

the one i did this weekend is almost dead center, it is a 28x7x2.5
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/28-X7...spagenameZWDVW
it fit just fine, had to bend PS lines just a few mm towards the bumper support to give it extra room so they dont touch

if you want it centered, then you've got to go with the wide/short ICs you linked - but IIRC the 9" tall IC won't fit underneath w/o dropping it several inches below the base of the mouth piece.

That said, if you're willing to build a scoop, then you're most likely willing to mod your mouth piece to drop down to the base of the IC. In theory, a curved edge from the mouth opening down to the base of the IC will accelerate the air entering mouth as it passes the threshold. I bet all the exchangers in the front would benefit from rework of all the shrouding in the mouth.

I'm going to correct the current mod to the mouth I have, so it curves down to the base of my rad, following the principle outline in the link. That will replace the steep drop from the mid point seen below.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...5t/shroud1.jpg

This is the same I/C as the 22x7x2.5 I linked earlier. For confusion's sake, we are listing CORE sizes here, not overall sizes.

Either way, I think that one is a little too small for my HP goals.

I still had to do that, to hit the bottom 3 runners:

https://www.miataturbo.net/~web1_bra...litter_mod.jpg

And here some say they can go 12" tall while clearing the A/C parts. I guess they mean offset, not centered, eh? Looking at Paul's pic above I can see there's no way a 18x12 centered will clear the A/C dryer (cylinder looking thing). Scott, yours is 18x12, right? Looks a lot narrower in that pic above.

And you say a 9" won't fit underneath w/o dropping it...underneath what?

I guess I'd still want a scooper to put air up from below and put it between the I/C and radiator (like BEGI). Ehh who the hell knows.

TurboTim-my bad i just copied the ebay adds descrition...
either way, i will hae an undertray/scoop to maximize efficiency, IMO its a must, and its so easy i dont see why not
besides, we all love making stuff from scratch dont we...

The 12x18 core I'm using must be offset - it's just too tall to drop down. The reality is that any a/c place can move the drier inside the engine bay (lazzer did it). A lot of OE applications put the a/c drier in the engine bay. That would solve everything.

The 9" has to sit way low to fit under the a/c drier in the stock location.

scott- that's pre brain-scooper?

Rob, actually after brain-scooper. like i said I'm in the process of changing things up. This shroud has since be given a nice coating of black duct tape to maintain a good seal around the cooler :bigtu:

The splitter should help force airflow into the bumper. The flat undertray will provide less drag & lower pressures. and the small radiator scooper an extra source for air directly on the radiator.

----

Tim, my core is 11x12x3. 18" in total. it will fit perfectly centered and there's no need to modify anything to install it.

the 18x12x3 core will fit as well, but will be offset from center, just like the FM ones.

the 22x7 should fit with the dryer in place. I believe SamNavy has the same. Fills the mouth perfectly and no need to move the dryer.

that would be the one I've got... 2nd hand cheap intercoolor off ebay, never used, in original packing, paid $70 shipped.

Thanks guys, that clears things up a bunch. I didn't realize arkmage had 18x12 overall. :bigtu:

Then it comes down to what's better (flow, cooling, need for scooper, ease of scooper install), 18x12 core offset or 22x7 core centered.

There are some pretty good directions on Stripe's site that he sells the piping kits on - http://mx5projects.com/greddyIntercooler/default.htm

Sounds like there's a good market for a dryer relocation kit.

Frank

I don't want to relocate the dryer cause I don't wanna have to find extra R12

Do you fear the 134 conversion? I've had good success with the autoparts store 134 conversion kit. Did it on my 94 protege and the a/c worked great for the two years I owned the car. Was ice cold when I sold it. I know the purist hate the kits, but everybody I know has had success.

I'm seriously considering that tube and fin 12x18 core, since it's a direct replacement for my current IC. It would be very interesting to see the differences.

Use freeze12