24psi=225hp@5500rpms?????
 

well
i my car was dyno tuned by rpm and only made 225hp... and the boost can only be set at either 10 or 24 psi???? i have a manual boost controller... but what worries me more is why im only getting 225hp with that much boost....

leakdown test

whats that???

man that sucks...def might not have all the compression... don't use psi to compensate for lost compression in an engine.

Its a precedure that checks for compression loss on your cylinders.
Most shops will do it for free, considering they hope you will freak out and drop tons of money on their shop to let them do a rebuild.

motor is basically brand new completly rebuilt... 323 gtr wrc con rods, wiesco 8.5-1 comp pistions, apr head studs
cometic metal head gasket , new head....
i dont think that its the motor.. i hope....

but they are the premier shop on the eastern united states....how could this happen????!!!

hahahaha... we will see if what they say is true... any ideas on what might be causing this problem??? would it have anything to do with the boost controller?? they can only get 10 or 24 psi nothing between....

it could be anything man. I think you need to start out with a FM basemap on the link and slowly increase timing and reduce fuel. Get a good map first but dont just go right for 24psi. Start out off the wastegate spring and get a nice 8-10psi map and work your way up slowly. Even the strongest engine wont stand a ton of bad tuning.

bad boost controller?

sounds about right for 10psi....

my wastegate spring is a 15psi spring... i dont know what is going on with the boost controller.. they think that they sold me a boost controller for an external wastegate when i have an internal one... they have been tuning with a wideband and they says it isnt running lean... they also say that the turbo peaks between 4900-5500 rpms which i think is kind wierd too.. i was getting 240 hp with the smaller 16g turbo, 330cc injectors and an rx7 maf... maybe its that ebay big 16g turbo??? i had it on when i first put the kit together and it was fine.... then i switched to a small 16g for better spool up... the last time when i switched to the big 16g it killed my piston rings...

any leaks in the manifold exactly how rich is it?

220hp sounds like a well tuned 10-12 psi. That's what I made around 11-12 psi on the old motor/turbo.

Even with the Link ECU defaults you shouldnt be making that little an amount of HP. I would be worried about fueling though, especially with as stock rail and 550cc injectors. Kind of weird how you installed all that crap but forgot a fuel rail or the coolant reroute.

Anyway, your story is an awesome example of why you should learn it yourself instead of giving it to other people to figure out for you.

i tried to get a rail from flyin miata but they cant get the lines for theirs... i dont know of anyone else that makes a dual feed rail, and dont want to make one myself...

Dual feed fuel rail is easier than tapping the pan. what lines does it use some special an line or something? Even if it does any local hydraulic shop can fab up lines. Jason this is truly heartbreacking and bad for moral all around. have you checked your timming put a WB on the fuel, i thought you said earlier rpm does not have a dyno

they brought it to the dyno on friday... the guy mike from rpm was very confused when it only got 225hp... he thought i should have gotten around 360 to the wheels...the had a wideband on it when they put it on the dyno and the fuel was fine.. the only two things that i think are possibly causing this is 1. bad boost controller.. they cant get the boost to go anywhere inbetween 10 and 24 psi.. it will only stay at either 10 or 25... 2. the ebay big 16g turbo has something wrong with it...
or maybe im having some sort of HUGE power loss at the driveshaft or diff???
or maybe the clutch is slipping??? i have a 1.8l act hd and a 1.8l flywheel...

How in the world can you get 10psi with a 15psi wastegate spring?

oh yeah thats the other weird part... almost forgot about that...is it possible that the turbo is having a problem with the internal wastegate???????

a hd is only rated for 230 or so whp so yeah maybe but still. i think you would notice a diference in rpm from the motor to the wheels if you where slipping.

ps
the line for fm is a an-8 to 5/8" line

go to parker store and i am sure they can hook you up. the only stuff they dont have seriusly is metric stuff. and they even have a little of that.

im gonna pick up the car tomorrow and see how it feels.. i should be able to diagnose the problem within a few minutes.. i hope...

wait you werent even there when they dynoed it?

your peak HP should be at 6000-7000 rpms....if anything your getting a massive boost spike and it's dropping a shitload by redline....


I dont understand the whole 10 or 25psi thing.....


also FM defaults suck ass....

sounds to me like they saw you coming..... and decided to screw you......

still dont know how they tune 22 psi without a dyno....

i work too much to get to the shop.. plus their about a half hour away...

also...what would cause a boost spike??? and what would cause peak power at 4900-5500... could it be a bad boost controller?? or could it be an ebay big 16g turbo.... i just switched back to the big turbo....

if the Wg cant hold closed the boost will spike before the WG opens and your boost will drop significantly this makes alot less hp. even so 225 by 5K rpm is not ideal either yuo have issues there somewhere for sure in the tunning department.

HANG ON, HOLD THE PHONE, WAIT JUST A FUCKING SECOND!!!

There's something grossly wrong here.
They took it to the dyno and could only make 10 OR 24psi? That's complete bullshit! ANYBODY, WHAT WOULD BE THE FIRST THING YOU'D DO IF YOU SUSPECTED A BAD BOOST CONTROLLER? Funny, first thing I'd do would be to take it out of the equation for a couple runs, and tune the thing wastegate only and see where we stood. 15psi on a 16g built motor w/Link and 550's should lay down in the 260whp range. As Brainkeak said, the 225whp@10psi sounds about right. But, I'm not sure how they're making 10psi with an MBC on a 15psi wastegate spring.

It's not possible that a decent speed-shop wouldn't be able to diagnose a bad manual boost controller. The shop has however figured out that you don't know shit and will continue to pay as long as they tell you to because you've got no choice. The fact that you're not even around to watch them work and tune just makes it easier for them. "Best shop on East Coast" my ass. Who told you that? Is this the place: http://rpmnyc.com/ I see nothing on that website except Hondas.

You need to get that car out of there and take it someplace else. Cut your losses and run. Go pick it up, disconnect the wastegate rod, and drive it home unboosted. Somebody on this forum might be able to help you out with a place close-by that's got a clue. Or, call FM and have them recommend a shop to you. Then see if FM will call the shop for you and set up an appointment or at least talk to the shop-owner and lend some credibility to your name. I assume you've got a butt-ton of money for this whole thing, just no time to do it yourself. Get it away from RPM and into the hands of someone else, with an in-house dyno, and who knows more than just Hondas.

hitting 10 psi on a 15 psi spring... is a massive boost leak...(or wrong spring)
running 10 or 24 at 5500 rpm sounds like a boost controller problem...
Boostcontroller holds the boost until spring releases it and the wastegate can do its job... It could be the small hole inside the boostcontroller that has clogged... This way the wastegate stays open and boost drops...
225 hp on 24 psi....Big skrew up at the dyno...

15 psi doubles engine hp (theoreticly) so something is wrong.

Use your ass as a dyno and you can feel the difference...

I seriously agree with sam. 10 psi isn't possible without a very bizarre and consistent boost leak. 24 psi means that the boost controller isn't opening the wastegate cause it is stuck, and I imagine that turbo maxes out at more than 24 psi. Tell them they are on crack.

the turbo is closing on the end of it's RPM limit by 24 psi. Somehow it is sticking closed and then swinging open was the WG actuator cocked crooked when you clocked the turbo? this could have about the same effect.

Magna, I think you're on the right track... there's not many things it can be.
Jason, just get out now before they toast your $4k motor. Hell, send me and Braineak plane tickets. Brain can bring his brain, and I'll bring my LC1 and a bottle of rum and we'll tune the thing for ya.

rpm is gonna switch back to my small 16g and give me a new boost controller... hopefully that fixes the problems... if they do toast my motor then they can rebuild it for free.. im pretty sure they will get it right.. it should be done this week sometime..
ps the wastegate arm was a little bent... dont know if that is whats causing this..
oh and ive got some 10 cane rum here if this doesnt work...hahaha

Rum is good i would vote for more Rum for sure. Gl jason.

ill keep everyone posted on what happens...
thx

it wont fix the problem, but it will surely fix your full wallet :gay:

Good luck on that free motor.

there not gonna charge for the boost controller... i have yet to pay for the tune and i dont plan to until i have the car running right at 18psi...

it was the ebay 16g turbo and wastegate.. it was opening and closing on its own....

ouch glad that is fixed this is why i stay with real mitsu turbos thanks for the info any updates on power?

couldn't they have just tried the old wastegate actuator?

:dunno: this is NYC scot not the rest of the world i am surprised they have room to change there oil much less change a turbo.

seems that when i had this turbo on the motor last time(when it blew the rings) it probally was starved for oil and damaged the hot side and wastegate flapper...
i havent seen that ebay crap yet so ill post pics when i get it back on friday.. rpm is re-tuning the car today and tomorrow..

im from nyc too
i saw your posr and called them two days ago
told them i wanted my car tuned
and i also asked what the deal with your car and mentioned they are
all over our forums so they better do a good job
hope it worked

:rofl: nothing like internet pressure to force the deal to go right :pitlab: way to stick up for your homey man :bigtu:

Hahaha. You told him they were on the forums....Thats funny. And all the sudden the car is fixxed...Hm.....

it's like backwards blackmail.

No offense but I'd get your car away from that shop and never go back, man. Read the forums for two weeks and I bet you'll know as much as they do about your car.

Exactly.

yep thats what i told em
they are used to honda dudes over there
they dont even understand what gona happen
if they mess with miata dudes....

nothing is going to happen....

LOL
exactly

no that's not true.

we'll bitch about them behind their backs and then in a month forget about it til someone asks if they are a good shop out of the blue.

and then... if we dont like them... we say yes.

:rofl: sounds like something I'd do....

Most car modders steer clear of NYC due to the parking situation. I'm surprised they have a tuning shop there.

dude if i can bring my car back from the dead you can to GL.

update....
so i got the car back on friday...rpm is a great shop to deal with..
they didnt charge me for the tuning... just to put in the link...
they worked very hard to get it to run right... and it does.. very smooth... just not to much power.. maybe 240 at 16psi...
their custom work that they did this time and last time on my car is probally some of the best i have ever seen.. the guys are also really cool...
so now im off to tune it myself with the fm defaults and more fine tuning by me...
if i cant get it to run right then im gonna take it to the dealer alt. in orange, nj

dude 240 friggin whp are you serius how much did they charge yuo to put the link in. It it one of the easiest ecus to install out there. Takes like 25 minutes. Did they even tune on it any? I would be furius. Glad you got your car back though.

I'm guessing they took all that time to properly install the link. They didn't do any tuning because the ECU is probably still on factory defaults.

240 hp sounds believable for factory defaults plus 16 psi.