Love the color choice on the turbo. Not to big a fan of the turbo itself but the color choice is nice ^^. Why but so much money into this project and stick with that? Are you doing and strengthening to the transmission components that is quite a bit to but though the stock tranny without and modification. Esp if your going to be launching / driving it hard which i am sure you will be :)

This sound familiar..

Update..
Compression still perfect on all cylinders.
repalced cyl 1-4 coil with a used protege coil i had. nothing changed
Swapped new coil on cyl 2-3 and misfire is gone.
gapped the plugs back to .024 and still no miss up to 16psi..

I haven't read the entire thread, but have you considered the FM Big Spark Kit? Works like a hot damn, especially when coupled with the NGK race plugs.

badgt. it is the 6speed with is a lot stronger than the 5 speed. !!

If you are going to go the big spark kit, I would highly recommend just buying the bracket and spark plug wires from FM. You can source the coils from a local junk yard for a ton cheaper and save some cash. I think I have about $250 into my setup.

"a lot stronger" is really relative, there are a few people on here who constantly break 6 speeds.

turbo kit is for sale.

parts included:
rebuilt ct26 turbo
custom manifold
custom 3" downpipe with 2 o2 sensors bung and egr recirculation plug
oil return line
turbo brace
inlet pipe comes with maf
bosh DV
FM stage 1 clutch
boomslang harness
AEM FIC already tuned for 550cc injectors
550cc deatchwerks injectors
turbosmart boost controller

the kit has around 12000 miles on it so it is pretty new
didnt had any issues with any parts on the car

asking 3000usd plus shipping.

parts needed to complete buid
oil feed line
coolant lines
tap your oil papn
3" exhaust
intercooler and piping.

(going for more power thats why we sell this kit. i'll do a new build this winter with new parts because we are shooting for around 400whp)

Why not just turn up the boost?

so for sure you didn't pop the motor?

are you sure?

:giggle:

because he totally......DIDN'T.....pop the motor

;)

I mean, there's that. I'm just saying that the CT would NEED a built BP to shine.

im selling the kit because my dad now knows that he like the feeling of a turbocharged miata and he drove my car on the strip last weekend and he now want more power and an efr lol.

he like the kind of power i have in my car (577whp supra) so i think that with 400-425whp in a miata it will be pretty close of me regarding power and ill never get 400whp out of the ct26. also a 6758 will spool a little bit faster too....

and no the block still lives and is in perfect health lol

What transmission will you use?

and iff you need a proof that it still lives i can make a video its not that tough

stock 6 speed

i plan on around only 300-315 wtq and 400whp between 7300-8000 so it will not be that hard on the tranny. and a clutch with an organic disc help save trannies to

With his luck on the stock block while using AIDS and making more power than most anyone else, a 5 speed should be perfect for him.

In for auto trans swap. Heard they can hold the power really well

If he really is running the powerband he posted, and beating on the car regularly, and it still hasn't skipped a beat, then I am really impressed. You can count on one hand the amount of 10:1 compression stock rod BP's that have thus far done that.

I wonder what his ignition total timing is with the stock ecu and the fic. I'm guessing lots of boost, no timing, keeping cyl pressures down and taking it easy on those rods.

good idea leafy and ill have better gear ratios too....

damn it is posted earlier in the thread. 20-22 deg of timing and around 12psi of boost.....

I guess I missed it. my bad.

now I'm really confused, because I bent all 4 rods on my '00 with less timing and same boost, and really conservative afr's.

and that was a 9.5:1 engine

he's using an FIC, so thats stock timing - 20-22 degrees.

no stock timing minus 5-7

18psi its preatty simple. you probably have a less flowing exhaust. less flowing manifold. less flowing turbine. and a smaller intercooler. thats why you can detonate and engine running less timing and richer afrs.

do a quick search. when mazda introduced their new turbo skyactive engine from japan to america they had to drop compresion by a whole point ( went from 14 to 13:1 ). and the only reason for that is because they had to shorten the manifold tubes for emmission purposes. that how important manifold flow is.

another example i can give is on my old engine on my supra. with a bolt on turbo at 20psi on the stock cast manifold i was running 7deg of timing anything more and i would hear it ping. than with the same tubo and downpipe i did a custom turbo header and at the same boost i was now able to run 16 deg of timing.

The problem is:
I had a tubular manifold
I had a 3" exhaust
I had a gt2860rs .86
...anddd I was running a whole .5 less static compression.
the only variable here that I could think of is you have much better gas vs my CA 91oct piss. but my car never detonated or knocked that I remember, so...

It's cool, I realize its pointless to compare, I'm just really surprised.

well im also surprized. maybe fuel is of poor quality in your area. but what matters when you ben a rod is the trq you have no matter what parameters give that trq.

how much trq did you had when you bent the rods
at what temperature you dynoed the car

its nearly impossible to have my numbers at my boost level since in california temperature is a lot warmer. mine was dynoed at about 40deg F

most of time people break engines because they dyno at the limit of stock internals on a hot day and then do a pull on a cold night so boost is up by 1-2 psi and air is more dense so you en up with 270wtq instead of the 240 on the dyno so the engine pop or bend a rod

for exemple. a guy that was at our supra dynoday this summer put down 518 whp at 22 psi and this same car dynoed at the same wastegate dutycyle 615whp at 24 psi in the winter when it was built. we are talking here of dyno temp of 110 degf on the summer pull and 35 deg f on the original winter tune

Sure, but you dyno'ed over the limit of the stock engine, while on imprecise engine management.

the limit is 250wtq.
this is a semi safe limit.
im at 256 so not a lot over
and in the summer with hot temp we are probably at around 230-240

plus an fic is not imprecise at all when tuned correctly.
a megasquirt is not better when not all tables a tuned correctly

when you get your ms tuned on a dyno the tuner ajust the fuel table and ignition table and thats it ( well every tuning shop i saw in my life do that ). there a lot more than these 2 tables to tune if you want it to be reliable. and im sure a lot of user run the ms with all these tables tuned like crap witch transform to good tune on the dyno in a crappy tune on another day.

The stock engine limit is from peak cylinder pressure. Which is why you can nuke a rod below the "safe" limit with knock. And why 18psi assumed you were making your unusually high power by running high boost and low spark advance, since that creates lower peak cylinder pressures and a wider pressure curve than running lower pressure with more advance. Its gentler on the rods while being harder on everything the hot combustion gases touch because they're hotter in that setup.

And lets face it the FIC IS less precise. You have no ECT or IAT input to the unit. You're fully at the mercy of what the stock ecu does with these values and have to tune around it. You're dealing with tuning around a pre turbo IAT value on top of that. And we can see from your dyno a few pages back how imprecise it is in your AFRs, they drop below what the wideband can read during spool up but peak at nearly 13 at peak torque because, "I had to have that rich part because there is no load enrichment in the stock ECU with the AEM FIC and if it is not there it would go crazy lean when boost would build fast when shifting or flooring it at high RPM." And thats on the dyno when it was tuned, who knows what its doing in varied engine coolant and intake temp situations.

iat is before the tb not before turbo

and yes i said ms is more precise. but most tunes in the ms aren't thats what i mean

This is impressive, but you know it's just a countdown to the inevitable. There are more stock components than rods you should be worried about, such as your oil pump, or piston rings. Wish you luck with it

A friend showed me my old video of my protege I made so i tought some of you would be interested in seeing it.
This was the year before we putted slicks on the car so it is on street summer tires
Still it pulls great for only 19psi. A good comparison of how it pulled is the s2000 on the third race as soon as i have some traction :)

Dude.. You have done nothing but troll this thread since 2013, have posted 0 useful advice, and continue to down-talk this guy's perfectly successful turbo build (and damn good fabrication work while we are on the subject). Seriously, what the FUCK gives? I read the whole thing from front to back, and if I read another butt-hurt reply by you because you figured out you can't tune a car as well as many other people in the Miata world, I am going to puke. Forums like this need much more PRO-ductive people, and supportive people. Its a community, not a flame fest.

Do you realize posts like yours over the past 1.5 years in this thread, equate to nothing useful? Think about that for awhile.

Back on topic..

To the OP, I am thoroughly impressed by the kit you built and the numbers it made. I am also someone who realizes reliability is all in the tune, and you have proved that 120%. Its shocking some "tuners" still haven't figured that whole idea out.

I sure wish I had the cash for that kit, its well built without a doubt.

Silly n00b.
Get lost before I make you cry.

Irrelevant. Relevant questions at hand:

1) How many "failed" builds happened in this thread? 0.
2) How many helpful, and proactive posts have you made in this thread? 0.

If you are going to argue your advice as "useful", in this thread, then you truly are an idiot and have no hope. By the way, "useful" advice isn't "This has been done before, failed, so you are an idiot for trying".

You will grow up when you stop equating someone's knowledge to how long they have been a member, or even active, on a forum.

My point was, make the forum a PRO-active place, not post pointless troll posts that the OP will likely ignore anyway.

:laugh: How many miata's have you built? How many have you tuned? How many threads or posts do you have on here helping people?

Silly self entitled drama queen metro pissant, you don't get to call the shots here with your emo drivel. You haven't been "broken in yet", the attitude is simply adorable.

Crying and demanding to be spoonfed while criticizing the people that have the information is a failed approach. You'll have to change your tampon and unwad the panties for round 2.

:bowrofl: :bowrofl:

Stop with the camp councillor preaching crap nboost. One of the good things about this website is the skepticism. They don't claim every magician to be a messiah and bow down. 18psi has warranted doubt and questions. He never out right flames the dude. He reserved his judgement and was suprised and compliments the guys good work. This is suprisingly civilized for 18.

Back on topic. I'm a dud. Anyone want to explain why good exhaust manifold design reduces det?

Lower EGTs and lower backpressure mean lower cylinder head temps. And a mean no more hot spot cylinders that make you drop timing across the board to compensate for 1 hot cylinder.

EGT... Of course...

I did a bit of reading too. It makes sense. Thanks.

I read page one and the last page.

Did anything change between them in terms of bandaid fuel management, 550cc injectors, and 300 hp on a stock 2002 motor?

Because if not, I predict the creation of a "help me rebuild my blown motor" thread by same OP sometime in early spring.

sincerely,
guy who ran a 2001 stock motor at 250 rwhp for many years.

I don't see what is the problem with the 550cc??????

Well the engine survived all the summer taking it to the strip for 8-10 passes at least a dozen time. We made 20k this summer and beating on it pretty hard, tapping it to the rev limiter in 6th gear at least 25 times

as for multiple years we will never know because during winter we are upgrading rods, valve springs, billet wheel on ct26 and changing FIC for an ms3 because we plan on upping the boost to achieve between 350-380whp.

We will see the condition of the rods in the engine in about 2 months when ill remove them but i'm sure there will be no bad surprise because compression was still 180 across all 4 when we put the car away for winter.

The car may run fine for years, but I can promise that at 250 wheel hp, your rods look like a bowl of spaghetti very quickly. Just plan to replace them if you pull them.

.

:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm: :facepalm:

Please...........stop posting anything about miata's. I'm serious, and not even trying to be mean here.

I don't think you've even been near a miata. At all. I don't even know where to start.

Between this and asking why we all can't yank our oil pans like every other car, I see a serious need for QC Bot to bring the ban hammer.

Plez stahp

Why would anyone sink a single dollar into a stock rod? I do not understand.

Its ok, neither does he.

Well i knew that...

I was just wondering what he thought he'd gain by paying someone to shot peen a curvy rod.

This guy is very strong in the running for eggplant award.

I mean really, it takes skill to be so dumb and wrong.

I'm convinced it's some pimple faced retard hellaswag kid driving a civic and thinking all his "knowledge" applies.

He's just taking hints from :brain: but his google skills are lacking :giggle:

NBoost for admin '15?

But really: IP check needed on isle 5, no one can be this way and not trolling.........right?

As self appointed marketing director for the "Shuiend for President 2024" campaign, it would be unethical for me to endorse another candidate.

Have we derailed OPs thread enough yet?

I apologize fellas, I was typing a reply larger than what got posted above, but then got busy and exited the browser on my phone. Opened my email later to find that it had accidently posted, obviously incomplete. I also saw a few people replied (to say the least) but im not a grudge holder.

*FIXED*

but no trolling here, Just absorbing all the knowledge I can through reading. The oil pan thing wasn't something I thought through long enough, my mistake for sure. It wasn't something I had realized under my car, yet. I have only had my NB a few months, but alas, they are cars, regardless of how many Miata owner's will act they are something totally different, or dare I say.. Better?

Back on track:

I am interested in seeing the power curve of this set up, I feel this type of build reaches that turbo's "sweet spot", all while not having to worry about stock rods.

I'm in for updates!

Dyno plot was posted earlier in the thread nboost. Page 3 if i remember right. I'll post the new dyno plot with the new upgades and more boost as soon as i have time to do them. Im currently pretty busy on subaru project so upgrades should come around march or april.

Yes, I know it was. I was referring to the new curve with forged internals, more boost, etc.

Update

I finally opened the engine to upgrade some stuff before summer.
First of all lets take a look at 300whp stock rods

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426548994

yep straight as an arrow
I see no reasons why these would have failed in a near future...
obviously we replace them because we are shooting for more this year