I dont recall seeing a 2560 making full torque at 3000rpm.

And the CT is gonna be a little lazy at this low boost levels.

You guys are assuming it's a 300hp $50 turbo. It's not. It's a 350whp+ $50 turbo.

I'm trying to figure out how this 10:1 engine can possibly hold together if its indeed making over 300whp and 260wtq and he's doing pulls in 6th gear to redline. I bent rods on my 9:5 engine at only about 250whp and I never even did a pull in 6th. Just sayin

Or the whole hitting MBT on 93 on a 10:1 engine.

Well it is....I can make a video if you don' thrust me but it'll have to wait until march when there will be no more snow :)

As for why it still hold up I would guess that because it is tuned damn safe regarding timing..

I'm not sure i really buy the numbers either, but the youtube video of how it drives seems pretty decent, despite the turbo not hitting enough boost to even "wake up" yet.


And this was my main "WTF" moment.




OP, mind posting up your timing map? :)

Except it was 91 octane.

Maybe French-Canadian 91 is more resiliant than US 91/93 octane...

The timing map will not tell you a lot since it's an FIC. The map will only show the amount of timing that is retarded over the stock map at full load like this:
-7 -7 -7 -7
-4 -4 -4 -4
-2 -2 -2 -2
0 0 0 0

If you still want to see it just ask and i'll post it

As for the numbers, the only comparison I can give you is 2 years ago my 7mgte supra at 20psi with a t66 did 470whp on the same dyno......

Is Canada the new Australia?

Not sure of what you mean LEAFY????

Must be a leatherface magic block. Maybe OP bought a car with 8.6:1 pistons and forged rods and didn't know it.

Leafy means your numbers don't make sense. Either you'll throw a rod in the next few weeks, or your dyno is reading high.

Props for the vid though.

lol

so you're pulling 7* from the 27* or so that the bp6d ecu runs at peak maf voltage
that's 20* of timing. that's a lot of timing. it doesn't add up. at all.

because if it does, then you just set the record for highest hp stock bp6d:giggle:

The Escort GT/Protege guys have been running over 300whp on stock BPs for many years now... (Street cars only, for whatever that's worth.)

I don't think this car is actually over 300whp, but i'm just sayin'.


Stock motor @ 312whp


Stock motor @ 339whp (There's other videos of this car around)





Again, just street cars and i wouldn't expect them to hold together for decades, but it's possible in general. I just don't think it's truly possible on this low amount of boost. I'd expect OP's numbers from probably 15-16psi.

yeah i pull around 7*.... and up it to -1 on the dyno to hear a single detonation event in the det cans but power was going down after i upped it from -4*......-7* gave me 1whp less than -4*..
glad to hear I have break the record for the highest stock block bp6d ;)

I doubt any of them are running 10:1 compression and are able to dead hook to load up the engine the way we can, but I don't know. The only fwd bp I've tuned put down 250-270 and ran mid 12's at 110-112

Oh, so you're saying Miatas blow motors because they dead hook in 5th and 6th gear, unlike what a 300whp BG car would do? :rofl::brain: <3 These guys are doing deep 5th gear pulls, mostly because they're retarded and feel like going 150mph+ in a shitty 20 year old econobox is a good idea.

The compression is secondary to your argument. Stock rods is stock rods.

I don't remember what compression my BP05 was. I threw it in the trash because BPs make my penis soft.

I said I don't know. I know that the festiva I tuned was never able to hook 1st or 2nd, and by the time it got to 3rd-5th it was well past peak load and operating in the 5-7k range. Find me one other 300whp 10:1 bp6d that held together for more than a few dyno pulls and didn't splooge its internals. That's all I'm sayin

What rpm was your peak torque at in the 9.5 motor you bent rods in?

Maybe the reason his hasn't bent/thrown a rod yet is because his peak torque isn't until 4000rpm?

Based on what little engineering knowledge and engine knowledge I have, I think 220wtq at 2800rpm is harder on the rod than 220wtq at 3500rpm.


That said, everything about this thread makes me think this engine is living on borrowed time. It's hard to believe he wasn't hearing any knock on 91 octane, on basically the stock timing map retarded 1*...

It was a gt28rs sized turbo (hks gt2535) that hit peak boost at exactly 3500 actually.

I know what you're getting at and I agree, but from his plot this turbo doesn't look all that lazy at all. Looks pretty darn good actually. Whether the plot is optimistic or not is a different question, but I'm pleasantly surprised with the ct26 in this case. I'm guessing the custom tubular mani and ewg are helping a bunch

He's using the factory internal gate, which is probably just fine at these boost levels. I have a hard enough time keeping an EWG shut when i want it on my CT26. My solution was to stack 21psi worth of springs in the gate.

If only your valve springs were stronger than 21lbs you would have been OK :giggle:

we all need to get bigger turbos.

Maybe all the rods look like this, giving a nice low compression?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1386623671

Come on tim, you know that rod length does effect compression.

Doesn't matter, still made more power than my limpdick BP.

Also: I'm pretty sure my current seat pressure is like..... 110lbs. NECESSARY. :rofl:

I will say it does. A bent rod (or shorter rod length) affects clearance volume, no? You have more combustion chamber volume with that bent rod.

Come on, all the cool kids run bent rods. You really think Lars wanted those rods for a damn lamp post?!

Displacement stays the same.

Little update on the car...

First it is still alive with still perfect compression across all cylinders

went to the strip last friday and did around 6-7 passes and managed to do a best of 12,70 @ 111.1mph witch I consider pretty decent considering we had totally worn out tires that are probably more than 5 years old and a totally full tank of gas....

I also realized how the 6 speed is geared like crap for a quarter mile lol. It is as bad as it is fun like hell on the street.... first gear is so short and shifting 5 gears in a quarter mile is a little too much shifting for my taste.:p

sounds like you need to get in on the 3.3 fd group buy

Naaa, run a 4.3 and start off in 2nd gear :)

For myself eventually I want a 3.63 with a 6 speed. The 3.3 seems a little extreme for now. If I build the engine and start making huge power perhaps i will think differently.

Keith

can't go 4.3 id had to shift 6th at the end of the run.

My father is thinking about ms3x rods and valve springs for next year so ill probably just bump the limiter to 8.5k so he'll stay in 4th up to roughly 115mph...

Based on 1/4 mile times I would say 300hp is about right. Great job. Love to see more videos. If you could do a 0-100 pull that shows your rpms that would be awsome. Im working on a budget turbo build and have a 6 speed and a gt2876r I may use. im Always afraid of going over 250wtq due to stock rods your dyno shows you right at it and 300whp so I hope your motor last a long time.

With standard diameter tires and a 4.3 in a 6 speed 7000 RPM in 5th is 111 mph... starting in 2nd and running to the top of 5th you would be doing one less gear change than you are now. I know that at the drag strip "terminal speed" and "trap speed" are two different things. Since trap speed is the average over the last 60' of the track, your actual terminal speed will be higher... but you can run 5th out to 7400 RPM and still be in 5th at the end of the 1/4 with the 4.3.

Keith

What size injectors and fuel system? stock pump? returnless?

stock fuel system exept 550cc injectors,

Can't go any higher than stock limiter because i am still on the stock ecu so ill live with the gearing i have now. :)

What brand 550 injectors? I hope to see more people get away with stock 300hp engines and like to see them last for years. Cool to see the old turbo working great.

I am hopping to manage this with the EBC function of the megasquirt. I plan to limit torque output to 225 lb-ft throughout the rev range, by running low boost (10 to 12 psi) in the lower RPM range, and ramping it up to higher boost pressures in the upper RPM ranges I hope to maintain that 225 lb-ft all the way through to redline. 225 lb-ft at 7000 RPM = 299.89 Rounds up to 300 :)

My only concern is I may run out of injector running E85 and the RX8 injectors at that power level. If I start getting ridiculous duty cycles I will need to back off until I get new injectors. I can't wait! My turbo system is almost finished, COP has been shipped, my repaired MS3 has been shipped, clutch and flywheel are ready to go in, and Xida clubsports should ship this month!

Keith

Good idea. I was thinking of managing tq by ignition timing map. Around 3-4.5 k keep timing down to lower the tq output and then tune it from 4.5 -7.5 for max power. So after I shift I should stay in the upper power band. The boost method works great as well.

Does anyone else in here think that the 6speed helps keep stock engines with over 250whp running due to the shorter gearing keeping the rpms up there for putting less stress on rods??? Just a thought.

I don't think so, I will check on my excel spread sheet of Miata gear ratio's when I get home. Using that I can easily see what RPM you drop to when shifting at 7000 RPM in each gear on both transmissions. I am at work right now so I can't access it.

Keith

Allright, here is the data.

Gear change . . . . . . . . .5 speed. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 speed
1 to 2 . . . . . . . . . . drops to 4100 RPM . . . . . . . . . drops to 4200 RPM
2 to 3 . . . . . . . . . . drops to 4800 RPM . . . . . . . . . drops to 5100 RPM
3 to 4 . . . . . . . . . . drops to 5300 RPM . . . . . . . . . drops to 5350 RPM
4 to 5 . . . . . . . . . . drops to 5700 RPM . . . . . . . . . drops to 5550 RPM
5 to 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . drops to 5900 RPM

So, the only significant difference is on the 2 to 3 shift the 5 speed drops 300 RPM more than the 6 speed. Not enough of a difference to make the pistons or rods last longer at higher torque values.

Keith

Well so much for that thinking. I swear when I was watching youtube of the 6speed with I think 4.10 it would not drop much seem to always be above 5k. But maybe I was wrong. Why do people say the 6 speed gearing is so short if only 300 rpm or so shorter.

I didn't put the mph in the chart... Short gearing has to do with what speed you gain between shift, not what RPM you drop to after the shift.

Keith

deatschwerks injectors if i remember....

Very interesting build and amazing fabrication skills.

I just recently bought a 2003 miata and am contemplating on putting a turbo onto it as well

300whp is a goal I am shooting for as well, my question to you is did you use a cometic headgasket (mls) and arp studs? I read as much as I could but did not notice you mentioning anything about that anywhere. Thanks

No.

In before a bunch of blown bp6d's because a bunch of n00bs saw 1 thread where one is holding up at 300whp

Pretty much. One guy who runs a 300whp stock BP and maybe goes WOT once a week does not mean the motor will hold up to regular use at 300whp.

Sav, you may remember this one...

https://www.miataturbo.net/engine-pe...-beware-31000/

Those are some pretty awesome figures, I'd be interested in watching how long it lasts!

I plan to run my block on a flat torque curve with an upward slope in torque past 5.2k - if it blows it blows.

I personally don't buy the MBT thing unless you accidentally ran e85 or the engine had been worked. On UK 98ron we're det limited on every setup I tune at this level.

Nothing was changed in the block so no studs or headgasket

I dont force anyone to by the fact that i it mbt. All i can say is that i had to give it 5-6 more degrees before i start to hear knock with the det cans and with 5-6 deg more advance i was loosing around 10-12 whp
Maybe you are always knock limited at those power levels but i bet you need more than 12psi to break the 300whp mark too. ;)

Interesting build! I'm currently in the process of tuning my 2002 Miata with a IHI mazdaspeed turbo setup. I am also using an AEM FIC with the boomslang harness. The car is running but really needs to be dialed in.
Would you mind posting your Cal File so i can compare your configuration to my Fuel, ignition, 02 map?
also, thanks for telling me about the additional 250 ohm resistor that needs to be wired into the boomslang.

Do you think the fact that they are home made det cans may result in you not hearing knock until after you start loosing power?

Not talking shit here, just concerned about your motors health.

Keith

Keith I can assure you the det cans work pretty well because when you start hearing very little knock only by listening to the engine without the cans and than put them on It pops like crazy in them. Generally I start hearing knock with them around 2-4 deg before I can start hearing without them. These also help a lot when i tune loud cars or ones with external dump tube.

Big power with a piggyback and MAF. You're giving me hope :drool:

Subscribed to see how long she lives.

This has helped me a lot. i saw you said you where going to upload your tune. have you uploaded your cal file. im doing the same as what you have done and would like to have a look at a good map for me to go by

did ~ the same on a stock BP with 10:1 compression and a chrubo based on GT2860R
boost peak (7 psi) is around 3700 rpm
dunno the rwhp, cause here in sardinia we have not many dynos...

jimmywiz. no i havent uploaded my cal file but it would probably be useless for you as each tune is different for each car.

bump

We upped the boost to 16psi last week instead of the 12 on the dynosheet. 20k this summer on the engine and still perfect compression.

we'll trya quarter mile run on monday to see if we can manage a better time than we did at the beginning of the summer. (i hope for at least a better trap speed than 112 :s)

You are making me consider pushing my motor a tiny bit. I already have a core ready to rebuild if I blow this one...

Can't wait to hear how long it lasts at 16psi.

finally didn't pulled good times on the quarter mile since we had some serious misfiring at 16 psi ... we had to bring it back to 9psi to avoid misfires. I think we are dealing with a dying coil since plug gap is already at .016 :s

I think you are dealing with a dying motor, but lets hope you're right and I'm wrong