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Old 02-19-2007, 10:26 PM   #1
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Default 300 whp? How hard

Might sound like kind of a dumb question, but how hard yall think it would be to get a FM-II turbo set-up to about 300-320 whp? Get a bigger turbo for sure, pistons and rods? Set up the ecu for the new turbo and tune for desired boost? Think a t3 running like 17 psi or so? Good cooling system and get the drivetrain strong enough to hold the power? Still a noob on FI, but its just my car is already starting to feel slower to me. Can take it to its limits pretty easy with out feeling scared of the car. I know that 300- 320 whp is a huge step-up and would be alot more car to handle than 230 whp.
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Old 02-19-2007, 10:43 PM   #2
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I don't see any reason why not. Most people will say it's overkill though.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:01 PM   #3
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bigger injectors 650 or 750s.6speed tranny,wider tires.good clutch
on the turbo setup you should look at andyfloyd and markp setup
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:05 PM   #4
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im really shooting for 225whp.
of course a built motor is always a good thing.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:28 PM   #5
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200rwhp will pull a stock STI from a roll. 300rwhp is obscene.

In reality, the biggest difference is just the supporting hardware. At 200rwhp, you need a clutch, an XD with a street disc or an HD with a race disc. $350-450. Tranny is fine, Torsen diff is fine, internals will go forever.

At 300hp, your tranny is on borrowed time, and the diff is going to follow it out the door. Your motor might last 50,000 miles, it might last 10,000 miles, so you're going to need rods and pistons at the very least. At 300rwhp, you're into the realm of an ACT XD, and even then you probably won't be able to run a street disc with it. The car won't spool until at least 3000, 3500rpm, and it'll spool harder. Once you get ALL of that sorted out, you'll need to put 300rwhp down, which is difficult in 3rd gear and near impossible in 2nd.

I am sticking with 220hp as a goal for now. It's so much harder to hit that 300 number that IMO until I have a ton of cash to really do it right (2.0 stroker, GT3071, lots of boost, racegas, etc.) it's not worth it. Stock will support 220 forever, but the stuff that's required to hit 300 will support 330, 350+. Consider that.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
200rwhp will pull a stock STI from a roll. 300rwhp is obscene.

In reality, the biggest difference is just the supporting hardware. At 200rwhp, you need a clutch, an XD with a street disc or an HD with a race disc. $350-450. Tranny is fine, Torsen diff is fine, internals will go forever.

At 300hp, your tranny is on borrowed time, and the diff is going to follow it out the door. Your motor might last 50,000 miles, it might last 10,000 miles, so you're going to need rods and pistons at the very least. At 300rwhp, you're into the realm of an ACT XD, and even then you probably won't be able to run a street disc with it. The car won't spool until at least 3000, 3500rpm, and it'll spool harder. Once you get ALL of that sorted out, you'll need to put 300rwhp down, which is difficult in 3rd gear and near impossible in 2nd.

I am sticking with 220hp as a goal for now. It's so much harder to hit that 300 number that IMO until I have a ton of cash to really do it right (2.0 stroker, GT3071, lots of boost, racegas, etc.) it's not worth it. Stock will support 220 forever, but the stuff that's required to hit 300 will support 330, 350+. Consider that.
are we talking about the 1.6 or the 1.8 with this?
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:42 PM   #7
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The 7" diffs. are a heckuva lot stronger than people give them credit. Ford T-birds and Cougars from the 80s and 90s used 7.5" rears, they weighed exactly one metric ****-ton more than a Miata and had a good deal more torque from their V8 engines.

Bangin' Gearz' 7" diff. seemed to last alright with 473rwhp, so figure ~350lb-ft. of torque.

I think the Turbo II diff. is only really necessary for 350+ lb-ft of torque and you plan on being at the drag strip every other weekend.

At 300rwhp, you're only going to be putting ~275lb-ft of torque. The 7" diff. would be just fine.

Back to the orig. question: Heck, Jeremy at FM had just under 300rwhp with his old FM II kit using the standard 2560 turbo, so, sure it can be done.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:48 PM   #8
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1 metric **** ton equals a metal of greater mass equals a metal that is more dense equals a metal that is stronger. The differential is NOT the part that breaks, it is the ring gear and the pinion.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:51 PM   #9
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300hp is kinda overkill in a miata, 250-260 would be enough to take out an assortment of many vehicles on the rd, unless ur going all out drag then you can go further, but daily drivability and longitivity of you engine would be shortend, unless you have a bulletproof engine like a 2jz or 1jz then go all the hell out.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:53 PM   #10
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Cant you build a bullet proof engine, and trans, and diff and so on considering it can be afforded.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:55 PM   #11
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oh yea Im sure you can in a miata, how long they'll last and the cost....ummm I say stay in the 200's for daily drivability.
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:59 PM   #12
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i was talking to a local guy with a nb.he made 270whp with 550s and a tec2 at 15psi,94 octane.

he drag raced it alot.he had a 4.10 torsen and a 5 speed.he didnt brake the rear once.

but said tranny where replaced every year.and was running 12sec,as his daily.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:00 AM   #13
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Bulletproof engine = one from FM. You'll pay out the nose for it, but someone just made 600rwhp on one of their 2.0 liter stroker blocks. The Tranny can either be a 6-speed, which has an unknown power limit (assume 400-450rwhp), or a built 5-speed for about 5 times the cost that will take whatever you can throw at it. Diff can be a TII for 350tq or custom for more. I'd budget around $8-10k for a truly bulletproof drivetrain, mabye half that for a drivetrain that will take 300rwhp forever.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:02 AM   #14
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I plan to make 400whp with my fe3 stroker. Im gonna have to wire up the MS for two stage. I think with good wide tires and reasonable throttle control you can put down alot more power than everyone gives the miata credit. This is all assuming you have the hardware to put it to the wheels.

If you get someone else to build it it might cost that much :( I have roughly planned out my entire build including turbo, tranny, diff, driveshaft. Excluding the tools I'll have to buy to do it myself (I don't count them personally because they will pay for themselves over time) it should cost me around $3500 for everything. I don't like threads where people are like "well what about how much time it will take you" yada yada. I don't price my time because thats what it is, my time.

Edit: make that ~$4000, I decided I was going to fork out for the pauter rods so I could have the stronger rod bolts on the stroker.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:03 AM   #15
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Damn savington you're making it sound like an incredible ordeal. I'd like to add water injection, knock sensor, 650cc injectors and a bigger turbo and shoot for 300whp on my 1.6. I'm pretty positive it's been done before.

Just don't beat the crap out of your drivetrain.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:06 AM   #16
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The engine is a 1.8l. Well I guess I could get it to 250 whp and see how it goes with that. IDK really what I would need to do to get up to about 250- 270 whp. I'm at 12 psi right now so maybe get up to about 15-16 psi. I'm fixing to get a new koyo R1 radiator. Hopefully going to be able to up to 14 psi and see what I'm running. What yall think?
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:13 AM   #17
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turn up the boost a little more and youll be above 250.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:18 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kotomile View Post
I don't see any reason why not. Most people will say it's overkill though.
Overkill can be a good thing!!!
Oh yeah and Water injection is your friend at that range!
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:20 AM   #19
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like i stated earlier 270 on 15psi with 94octane.on a 2560 external wastegate fm kit.

AL HOUNOS i think it can be done on our 1.6s
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:22 AM   #20
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idk, clint @ gashead motorworks ( where i was getting it tuned) took it to the dyno and did 19 pulls, tried to run 14 psi but it was overheating and pinging. So I don't know if getting a radiator with a bigger capacity will let me be able to crank up the boost.
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