Hmmm...ok. I sent him an email.

 

Oh, that's badass. I also really like what you did with the v-band in front of the WG dump tube join.

 

That's a baller $80 vibrant vband. More money than the $30 burns double slip but I just couldn't get those to work like they should in 3". It's really a much easier setup now.

 

I'm gonna have to revisit this idea. Built motor will be here shortly, '00 head...it's calling me... Tim, are now starting to manufacture again? Last we spoke, you were doing a lil R&D before starting up again.. I'm here in your backyard (ny)

 

What's the reason runners 1 and 4 slope downwards then head back up? Is it just style or is there some sort of theory for all this?

 

I can't find you in my emails. The only Tony I have is someone who has already paid me for one of these. Did you PM me? I deleted most of my old PMs.

I haven't stop manufacturing yet. I have this build to finish, then another by the end of may. Then I'm going to actually drive my car this summer. Mani/downpipe builds start again in Sept/October.

I will do manifold only builds over the summer as I don't need my car to build them on, but those spots are basically all taken, mostly because I want to build stuff for myself. The subaru needs more power!

 

Yeah baby it's all about the style! I got madd style. Bitches love it.

It should flow a little better like that compared to my first version. Probably nothing noticeable however. I wanted to make it even less likely for the flow from 1 to hit the flow from 4.

Runner 1 & 4 don't slope downwards in the first version. They are basically horizontal then bend up into the collector. There's still a "wall" there to separate and direct the flow but it's not as deliberate as this version 2. I'll make either, it all depends on the customer. If they want to save the cost of an extra weld elbow and don't feel comfortable trimming two stud lengths, version 1 still made 269rwhp @12psi/2560 on my '94 1.8 (with my 3" downpipe & exhaust).

 

btw linky no work.

 

It's pretty simple. Either use a BFH or a saw to cut a slot for clearance. No need to get medieval like in the pic posted earlier

No offense to you or anyone else, but if that can't be figured out then you shouldn't be buying this turbo.

EDIT: or clock the compressor so that the widest portion isn't lined up with the shelf. You'll get another 3/4 inch that way.

 

Very nice work Tim... Look forward to seeing some dyno results posted.

 

omg, that would take a solid 1 min to remove the turbo and all its fittings. Drool/

 

That's why V-band = baller status...

 

Me too! Too bad this isn't mine.

How is your's hard?! I guess the drain could be. I pride myself on simple easy access to most things. If I need to do something different to make it easier let me know, so the next guy's life is easier

But yeah this is going to be pretty simple to work with. Hardest part is balancing the turbo with one arm and getting that damn band clamp on the manifold with the other. I don't bother the wife with this stuff unless I really REALLY have to.

 

Tim, you have PM...

 

I wanted to point out how badass that setup is too. Its soo simpoo! Selling my road bike I think.

 

Sux being one of the first guys. It takes me a solid 30 minutes just to take off the downpipe.

 

I wish I did a silver WG instead of my ugly black -> brown ****.

 

Call up your boy Jake and bitch. Maybe he'll swap it out for a watercooled one for cheap.

 

I had no idea those ports were for water cooling...cool. Not that I used water to cool the turbo or anything anyway.

 

I think it comes from their watercraft customers, but makes sense, should help with the discoloration. I know people weld a waterjacket around the stainless tial turbines for use on seadoos. That's next winter's project!