Affordable Turbo Manifolds for A/C and PS on a 1.8
#22
mkturbo.com
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Good tip! I will keep that in mind. I will also look into the do-it-yourself route using the weir parts. I'm a decent welder and i've done a fair bit of fabrication. Not sure i'd trust myself welding up something that will undergo as much stress as an exhaust manifold, but i'll read up on it and see what i find.
#23
http://www.bellengineering.net/produ...products_id=33
On a side note, welcome to the miata turbo forum, how can we ruin your day today?
On a side note, welcome to the miata turbo forum, how can we ruin your day today?
#24
Begi or FM cast manifold is a solid choice, been thrown around in here several times.
If you want something a little better and more customization possibilities... PM ARTech and he can make something similar and cheap "log manifold" and should be able to take any customizations you might want, ie EWG flange, etc.
If you want something a little better and more customization possibilities... PM ARTech and he can make something similar and cheap "log manifold" and should be able to take any customizations you might want, ie EWG flange, etc.
#25
Mazda 1.8L BP exhaust head flange 3/8" mild steel $21.38 x 1 Turbo Outlet Nissan T2 flange 3/8" mild steel $12.28 x 1 Turbo Outlet Garrett T2 2.5" oval flange 3/8" mild steel $9.58 x 1 Turbo Inlet T2 flange 3/8" mild steel $12.39 x 1 1.5" schedule 10 304ss 90 degree elbow $4.15 x 2 1.5" schedule 10 304ss 90 degree tight radius elbow $11.77 x 2
Subtotal Amount: $87.47
Is this correct? I've still got to figure out what turbo I have so I can get the the correct flange... So that's about 12 too high... I'm in the same boat as the OP
#28
Mazda 1.8L BP exhaust head flange 3/8" mild steel $21.38 x 1
Turbo Outlet Nissan T2 flange 3/8" mild steel $12.28 x 1
Turbo Outlet Garrett T2 2.5" oval flange 3/8" mild steel $9.58 x 1
Turbo Inlet T2 flange 3/8" mild steel $12.39 x 1
1.5" schedule 10 304ss 90 degree elbow $4.15 x 2
1.5" schedule 10 304ss 90 degree tight radius elbow $11.77 x 2
Subtotal Amount: $87.47
Is this correct? I've still got to figure out what turbo I have so I can get the the correct flange... So that's about 12 too high... I'm in the same boat as the OP
Turbo Outlet Nissan T2 flange 3/8" mild steel $12.28 x 1
Turbo Outlet Garrett T2 2.5" oval flange 3/8" mild steel $9.58 x 1
Turbo Inlet T2 flange 3/8" mild steel $12.39 x 1
1.5" schedule 10 304ss 90 degree elbow $4.15 x 2
1.5" schedule 10 304ss 90 degree tight radius elbow $11.77 x 2
Subtotal Amount: $87.47
Is this correct? I've still got to figure out what turbo I have so I can get the the correct flange... So that's about 12 too high... I'm in the same boat as the OP
#29
Let's bump this up, but with a different question. Are there any existing T3/T4 turbo manifolds that allow the use of AC/PS? My plans are for a built block (and head) allowing a 9k+ rev limit and I want to try to make around 375-425 wheel. The primary focus will be for track racing (and no, not a drag strip).
#32
Let's bump this up, but with a different question. Are there any existing T3/T4 turbo manifolds that allow the use of AC/PS? My plans are for a built block (and head) allowing a 9k+ rev limit and I want to try to make around 375-425 wheel. The primary focus will be for track racing (and no, not a drag strip).
#33
I'm sorry, do you not know how to use basic grammar and punctuation? F**k off unless you have something useful to say. And no, why on earth would I drift a Miata? If I wanted to drift I would spend $1000 or less and get a nissan 240sx that I can smash into walls and not worry about.
#36
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I researched,
Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : Parts and upgrades : 1994-05 FM turbo manifold
... No mention.
Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : Parts and upgrades : 1994-05 FM turbo manifold
... No mention.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/support/in...all_turbos.pdf
See the cover page of the installation manual? I see a power steering and a/c compressor bracket...
Page 13 about drilling for oil return:
Drilling and threading a hole in the oil sump is a perfectly safe process. Should any shavings slip through, they will find it very difficult to get off the bottom of the sump and into the oil pickup. For rubber drain lines, the drain hole location is 2” below the upper lip (no lower!) and as far forward on the left side of the sump as possible, directly under the A/C compressor bracket (if so equipped). See picture below.
Welcome.
#37
Let's bump this up, but with a different question. Are there any existing T3/T4 turbo manifolds that allow the use of AC/PS? My plans are for a built block (and head) allowing a 9k+ rev limit and I want to try to make around 375-425 wheel. The primary focus will be for track racing (and no, not a drag strip).
I spoke with a Garret rep a few days ago about my turbo wants and needs and you can custom build your turbo so...yes a T3 V-band turbine housing can be bought. Abe and I talk quite abit and we agreed that a V-band for the turbo and wg is the best way to go.
Why do you want or need a 9K+ rev limit with your rwhp and torque goals?
Here is a pic of the exhaust manifold and dp I will be using and you can see the quality of the product. Good luck.
#38
My rev limit goals are mainly due to the way I drive on a track. I'm used to staying in the upper RPMs constantly. Also, most of the larger turbos flow better at higher RPM so I will be able to have a larger area of efficiency. I most likely will try to squeeze a BorgWarner in there instead of a Garret. Mainly because of the new Garrets being made cheaply in Mexico.
#39
My rev limit goals are mainly due to the way I drive on a track. I'm used to staying in the upper RPMs constantly. Also, most of the larger turbos flow better at higher RPM so I will be able to have a larger area of efficiency. I most likely will try to squeeze a BorgWarner in there instead of a Garret. Mainly because of the new Garrets being made cheaply in Mexico.
Once again good luck.