All fixed up! (Pics)
 

Replaced all my pressurized pipes with better silicone and t-clamp.

Installed a wastegate with an adjustable bracket for a better mounting position

Installed radiator scoop for a little better cooling

performed the parrell fan mod as well

Just need to install my new pads and brake fluid and I should be good for my next track event in late Aug :bigtu:

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/fixed001.jpg

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/fixed002.jpg

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/fixed003.jpg

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/fixed004.jpg

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/fixed005.jpg

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/fixed006.jpg

I'm sick of seeing clean engine bays. Going to have to do something about my 14 years of crud.:eek:

HAHA, everytime I open the hood I have a rag with me. The duct gets it pretty dirty and I only take pictures AFTER I've wiped it all down.

where did u get the clamps and couplers?

your brake fluid looks like washer fluid. Made me do a double take :rofl:

It's a mix of regular fluid and Super Blue, it's going to be flushed out.

Loki, Atpturbo.com

haha i was thinking the same thing. Probably a good idea to start fresh, is that super blue compatible with other fluids, i thought it wasnt.

whats the fan mod?
what does it allow you to do?


stuff looks good man :bigtu:

the fan mod lets you run the fans A/C, and Rad fans parralel instead of the AC being on only when the A/C is in use this increases the CFM you have blowing through the Rad and makes coolling more efficient.

I'm very curious to see your results with cooling scoop. There are two schools of thought - the scoop adds more air for increased flow OR the scoop actually disturbs the flow of air coming in the mouth and decreases the efficiency of flow. IMO the only way to figure out is to test it. I went the route of totally sealing off the mouth. I know that the reason most cars (and race cars) have small mouths with larger rad/IC/condenser surfaces to actually accelerate the air upon entry.
interesting stuff here

I'll be back at the track at the end of Aug. Otherwise I've never had a problem overheating on the street, even with the undertray off. It will take about 2 minutes to remove it so if it still starts to creep up in temps I can easily make runs without it and see the difference. If that doesn't work I'm going to be working on something that mounts to the same points but is flush with bottom of the oem splitter so only air comming into the mouth goes into it.

I ran Seafoam into it this afternoon. Sure did burn off a lot of gunk, idle smoothed way out (not that it wasn't already smooth), made the engine quite up a bit and it gained vacuum. I was impressed felt a lot smoother throughout the revs.

I finally swapped out my front pads with EBC Redstuff. Just bedding them in and I could feel the difference between those and the Greenstuff, however I think these bite from cold just as well. I'll have to see what it's like after I swap out the rears and bleed/flush the system. I completely destroyed my Greenstuff's on the track, they were cracked and failing apart and lost a lot of depth....at least they worked.

if any 1 needs the fan mod here it is.
http://www.miata.net/hakuna/parallel...%20wiring.html

yep..that's what i used. I didn't solder my connections but I'm going to go back and do it. I like the smell.

Why is your mass air flow meter upside down?

Looks like he did it to help it fit a little better in that corner. Placing it upside down should make no difference at all, however, placing it on its side might make a minute difference due to gravity (especially if you have a loosened flapper door spring).

The top stuck up too much and I couldn't close the hood. Upside down and it fit better.

about your brakes, im flushing out my old fluid and replacing it with some motul synthetic, do you know if just flushing it is enough to clear the system of the old fluid or will i have to run something through the system to get rid of all the old fluid before putting in the synthetic.

I was visiting the guys at ART (Spec Miata folks) last year and they should me several dyno runs with the MAF in different positions. They contend that the power curve is smoother when it's on it's side, because the flapper door is working against gravity and doesn't jiggle (like when it's horizontal). Who knows if this will make any difference. Spec folks are always looking for a little bit of an edge.

That's pretty interesting, Ike. May be worth playing around with one day, since I was planning to re-do my whole intake tract at some point anyway.