krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

I'm at the tail end of my motor build and am ready to put my motor back in. My car is not anywhere close to me and I need to order some parts so if some people could chime in here that would be sweet. I'd like to order this stuff asap as it's the last of the things i need to put the motor back in. well don't need but would prefer to do now while it's out.

Old Setup - 1.6 begi-s gt2560

New Setup - 99 1.8 - begi log w/ gt2560

The gt2560 already has the rubber fittings on it. anyone think it would be feasible to reuse any of those fittings or should i get all new an fittings?

I've done a lot of reading regarding this and i know there are a few kits out there. I would like a kit from abe but he hasn't responded to me. Anyone know what all his kit includes, including tubing length? I'm thinking of just piecing a kit together through anplumbing. I have a good idea of what i'd need to construct such a kit but am curious if he has anything I didn't consider. The thread where he posted pictures has a photbucket error. I'm also curious if it's a bad idea to reuse my brass hose barbs that connect my oil return from the bottom of my turbo to the oil pan. I was thinking of using silicone instead of the rubber though this time. I'm not sure if anplumbings Push On hose that is rated at 250psi and 250 degree would handle oil ok. I'm looking to redo my Oil & Water lines.

I was also contemplating using an aluminum T instead of a sandwich plate and mounting it on the firewall. Unless there is some major disadvantage to the sandwich. The motor is completely built arp/rods/pistons/bearings... I ultimately want to put efr and artech on but planned on running around on my 2560 and begi mani w/ 3" dp for a while and seeing how i like it. then if i do upgrade all my cooling and oil stuff how easily can i move that stuff over to the efr? i'm sure the hose length will change? fittings? maybe just run new rubber/silicone for now?

Should I just Put new rubber on and deal with it until I upgrade? opinions please.

czubaka

iTrader: (3)

The brass barb on the bottom of the turbo should be fine. Maybe change the gasket, but if it wasn't leaking before, there shouldn't be an issue. This part is not under pressure.

Silicone lines with some sort of heat wrap would be a good choice. The best choice, and most expensive, is to go full AN lines for everything. However, the silicone will tolerate the heat much better than rubber lines.

I'm a little confused about "using an aluminum T instead of a sandwich plate". Do you mean T-ing off the oil pressure sensor instead of pulling oil from the sandwich plate? I currently have that setup. It makes me uncomfortable, so I'm switching to the sandwich plate.

Ideally you'd run a full -4 line for the oil feed (use a restrictor on a bb turbo!), -6 lines for coolant (I use hose barb adapters and a short rubber line at the motor) and a -8 or -10 line for the drain. These can be moved to any future setup.

krissetsfire

iTrader: (1)

Shuind made me nervous about the glow sandwich saying it got clogged but joe uses it and I trust joe... Maybe I should just go all out and get the mocal. Anyone know the best place to get one?

czubaka

iTrader: (3)

Batinc.com carries mocal stuff. However, I haven't seen an adapter plate without the thermostat in it, more for oil coolers.

I'll be getting an earl's adapter from anplumbing: AN Oil Filter Accessories | ANplumbing.com
Part 517

Prosport also makes one (somewhere on miataroadster.com) with four 1/8 npt ports.