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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 09-13-2011, 08:46 PM   #1
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Default Another noob, another turbo.

I'm having trouble deciding between a 2560 and this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-D...item3f0441846f

It will be going on a 1.6 with forged 9:1 pistons and forged rods. I already have a t2 downpipe so I want to stay with t2 turbos. The headwork will consist of a polish of the runners and unshrouding the valves. I'm wanting 240 whp and will move up from there once comfortable.
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:19 PM   #2
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if you're forged and want to move up later on there's no reason to get either of those little turdbows. 2871+ is where its at. Esp with a built bottom end
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:21 PM   #3
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So would I just swap out the internal spring of the wastegate of th 2871 to keep from overboosting? Assuming it had a spring over say 14 psi. That seems like a safe start point for 9:1. Keep in mind I would like some longevity out of this motor.
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:38 PM   #4
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GT4088 is where its at. Don't be a *****
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:38 PM   #5
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30psi or you're a bitch
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:42 PM   #6
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Lol then call me a bitch. Call me whatever you want as long as you'll help me on my quest for boost. And no I don't want it spoon fed, but when I have a question it means I need a little help.

Let the games commence.
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:55 PM   #7
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This noob shows promise.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85z28 View Post
Lol then call me a bitch. Call me whatever you want as long as you'll help me on my quest for boost. And no I don't want it spoon fed, but when I have a question it means I need a little help.

Let the games commence.
In that case I'll answer your previously ultra-noob question:
there's no reason to turn the boost down from 14psi on a built motor. at all. in fact, you should turn it up. Unless by built you mean stock.
and dont shoot yourself in the dick by getting a little 200-250hp rated pea shooter. You'll soon realize you want more.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:37 PM   #9
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:28 PM   #10
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Yes. Look for one that isnt 150 for shipping
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:42 PM   #11
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Good call. Maybe I should see if it's a typo.
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:39 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
In that case I'll answer your previously ultra-noob question:
there's no reason to turn the boost down from 14psi on a built motor. at all. in fact, you should turn it up. Unless by built you mean stock.
and dont shoot yourself in the dick by getting a little 200-250hp rated pea shooter. You'll soon realize you want more.
Yeah, don't just be a wussbucket and run 18psi and hit 300hp and then sell your car. 500hp or bust. It doesn't cost that much more to do 500hp than 300hp if you plan for it up front.

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No. this is a better choice

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Civic...item2eb7c65329
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:41 AM   #13
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If you can get lower compression pistons, do it so you can run a spark table like this:

\
Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
if you're forged and want to move up later on there's no reason to get either of those little turdbows. 2871+ is where its at. Esp with a built bottom end
I like the smaller GT2860rs. Sure its only 200-400rpm more favorable boost threshold, but that makes a big difference in my car on the track. It's the smallest turbo I'd put on a 1.8.
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:50 AM   #14
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I like the 2860. I appreciate the fact you CAN READ that I want a t2 turbo. That spark map is ludicrous. Did I mention I like pump gas?
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:56 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85z28 View Post
I like the 2860. I appreciate the fact you CAN READ that I want a t2 turbo. That spark map is ludicrous. Did I mention I like pump gas?
That's 8.8:1 CR with 3" exhaust, .84AR turbine, tubular manifold, and 93 octane. I can run 91 on that table without hearing detonation on the street, but I still pull 2* for when I track the car on 91. I've had the table 6* advanced from there are 212kpa without detonation. I have a 99 engine and make 220wtq at 3400rpm at 11psi. You want lower compression if you're going to track it. The turbo is below prime at 11psi and the compression is probably too low, but still drives great and gives me lots of safety when the hot parts are glowing yellow on the track.

A 2871 is a "T2" and probably the biggest T2 you can get.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:00 AM   #16
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I'm impressed. So the 2860 on a 1.6 would do alright considering the smaller displacement?
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:02 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85z28 View Post
I'm impressed. So the 2860 on a 1.6 would do alright considering the smaller displacement?
I think so if you do the head work and go with a tubular manifold with 3" exhaust, but I'm speculating. The larger turbine housing is essential. Someone on here must be running this turbo on a 1.6 who can comment.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:12 AM   #18
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I planned on picking up the Begi manifold to go with my downpipe I bought.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:19 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
Yeah, don't just be a wussbucket and run 18psi and hit 300hp and then sell your car. 500hp or bust. It doesn't cost that much more to do 500hp than 300hp if you plan for it up front.
Loved every minute of it bitch. For a whole year if not more.
It does cost a lot more to do 500. The kid I sold it to turned it up and blew the clutch/transmission within months.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
If you can get lower compression pistons, do it so you can run a spark table like this:
[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GnkWxBehXUA/TnAiBiEK9YI/AAAAAAAAAXE/OjfVLjgxZlE/243whp%25252093%252520octane%252520spark%252520tab le.png[img]
\

I like the smaller GT2860rs. Sure its only 200-400rpm more favorable boost threshold, but that makes a big difference in my car on the track. It's the smallest turbo I'd put on a 1.8.
I wouldn't know, I had a street car/highway queen so the 3076 worked like a bottom bitch for me and I loved every minute of it.

That spark map is ballsy. I even saved it way back when. Pretty much ran the same thing except on e85. I wouldn't dare run that on camel **** 91. just my .02
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:32 AM   #20
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Savington runs a similar table and we both have AF hot parts and .84 turbine housings on 8.8:1 engines.

After putting the car on the dyno in the cold I've started running more spark than the old table IAT spark adjustments too:

I also checked the pully to make sure it didn't slip and everything checks out. It made 243whp at 115*f IAT on the dyno, it makes more when it's not obscenely hot due to the increase in spark which is not reflected in weather related corrections on the dyno.
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