I'm having trouble deciding between a 2560 and this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-D...item3f0441846f

It will be going on a 1.6 with forged 9:1 pistons and forged rods. I already have a t2 downpipe so I want to stay with t2 turbos. The headwork will consist of a polish of the runners and unshrouding the valves. I'm wanting 240 whp and will move up from there once comfortable.

 

if you're forged and want to move up later on there's no reason to get either of those little turdbows. 2871+ is where its at. Esp with a built bottom end

 

So would I just swap out the internal spring of the wastegate of th 2871 to keep from overboosting? Assuming it had a spring over say 14 psi. That seems like a safe start point for 9:1. Keep in mind I would like some longevity out of this motor.

 

GT4088 is where its at. Don't be a *****

 

30psi or you're a bitch

 

Lol then call me a bitch. Call me whatever you want as long as you'll help me on my quest for boost. And no I don't want it spoon fed, but when I have a question it means I need a little help.

Let the games commence.

 

This noob shows promise.

 

In that case I'll answer your previously ultra-noob question:
there's no reason to turn the boost down from 14psi on a built motor. at all. in fact, you should turn it up. Unless by built you mean stock.
and dont shoot yourself in the dick by getting a little 200-250hp rated pea shooter. You'll soon realize you want more.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/gt287...item415b8371f2

Is this a better choice?

 

Yes. Look for one that isnt 150 for shipping

 

Good call. Maybe I should see if it's a typo.

 

Yeah, don't just be a wussbucket and run 18psi and hit 300hp and then sell your car. 500hp or bust. It doesn't cost that much more to do 500hp than 300hp if you plan for it up front.

No. this is a better choice

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Civic...item2eb7c65329

 

If you can get lower compression pistons, do it so you can run a spark table like this:

\
I like the smaller GT2860rs. Sure its only 200-400rpm more favorable boost threshold, but that makes a big difference in my car on the track. It's the smallest turbo I'd put on a 1.8.

 

I like the 2860. I appreciate the fact you CAN READ that I want a t2 turbo. That spark map is ludicrous. Did I mention I like pump gas?

 

That's 8.8:1 CR with 3" exhaust, .84AR turbine, tubular manifold, and 93 octane. I can run 91 on that table without hearing detonation on the street, but I still pull 2* for when I track the car on 91. I've had the table 6* advanced from there are 212kpa without detonation. I have a 99 engine and make 220wtq at 3400rpm at 11psi. You want lower compression if you're going to track it. The turbo is below prime at 11psi and the compression is probably too low, but still drives great and gives me lots of safety when the hot parts are glowing yellow on the track.

A 2871 is a "T2" and probably the biggest T2 you can get.

 

I'm impressed. So the 2860 on a 1.6 would do alright considering the smaller displacement?

 

I think so if you do the head work and go with a tubular manifold with 3" exhaust, but I'm speculating. The larger turbine housing is essential. Someone on here must be running this turbo on a 1.6 who can comment.

 

I planned on picking up the Begi manifold to go with my downpipe I bought.

 

Loved every minute of it bitch. For a whole year if not more.
It does cost a lot more to do 500. The kid I sold it to turned it up and blew the clutch/transmission within months.
I wouldn't know, I had a street car/highway queen so the 3076 worked like a bottom bitch for me and I loved every minute of it.

That spark map is ballsy. I even saved it way back when. Pretty much ran the same thing except on e85. I wouldn't dare run that on camel **** 91. just my .02

 

Savington runs a similar table and we both have AF hot parts and .84 turbine housings on 8.8:1 engines.

After putting the car on the dyno in the cold I've started running more spark than the old table IAT spark adjustments too:

I also checked the pully to make sure it didn't slip and everything checks out. It made 243whp at 115*f IAT on the dyno, it makes more when it's not obscenely hot due to the increase in spark which is not reflected in weather related corrections on the dyno.