Any need to port the IWG of a high boost 2560? - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-31-2011, 04:57 AM   #1
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Default Any need to port the IWG of a high boost 2560?

Planning to eventually run my 2560R at 18.5psi. Been reading about IWG creeping and porting, and I'm itching to just hit it with my dremel.

So I have any reason to actually do that? Should I?
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:11 AM   #2
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It would be a good idea! I know Doppelganger had some issues with his 2560 running 12psi. dont quote me on that though, but Im sure that porting the IWG hole fixed what problems he was having.
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:13 AM   #3
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Actually, switching to a later designed unit is what fixed his problem.

But really, if I'm not going to be able to quote you on it, I'd like to see what someone a little more confident has to say.
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:14 AM   #4
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Quote:
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Actually, switching to a later designed unit is what fixed his problem.

But really, if I'm not going to be able to quote you on it, I'd like to see what someone a little more confident has to say.
I know he replaced it, I thought he had it ported as well! I meant dont quote me on his boost levels!

You gotta think if your running 15psi on that sucker or more when that waste gate opens your forceing all that pre WG pressure through a 1 in hole (thats not even 1 square inch). That little hole can only flow so much volume of gases through it. Any porting you do to that area is going to help! What are your actual goals on the 2560? depending on how efficient your set up is you can get some where in the 280hp range.
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:15 AM   #5
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I didn't read anything about that in his thread, not that I remember. Just a newer unit.
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:23 AM   #6
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I didn't read anything about that in his thread, not that I remember. Just a newer unit.
I spoke to him about a month ago at a local meet, we touched the subject about porting the WG. If im not wrong he got the housing from FM and had it ported while it was there. Hopefully he can chime in soon with the exact details.
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:44 AM   #7
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Researched it: https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...ighlight=creep

Story: Old CHRA + New housing = Creep

Old CHRA + Old housing = No creep

Old CHRA + Ported new housing = No creep

Been looking up any guides on how to do this porting, how much to take out, how to do it... this cast iron looks like it'll just chew up my stone dremel bits, too. o.o;
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:49 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagase View Post
Researched it: https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...ighlight=creep

Story: Old CHRA + New housing = Creep

Old CHRA + Old housing = No creep

Old CHRA + Ported new housing = No creep

Been looking up any guides on how to do this porting, how much to take out, how to do it... this cast iron looks like it'll just chew up my stone dremel bits, too. o.o;
Yeah stone wont last to long, although you dont have to port a whole lot. I would use a carbide gringing bit and a High rpm air tool! If you can wait about a week and if you have a air tool (ziz wheel) I THINK I may have an extra carbide bit or something that can I can send your way that will hold up.
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:54 AM   #9
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Here is a how to for the DSM guys just to give you an idea!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...p-porting.html

and hang on im searching for one that has to do with a Garrett!

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Old 03-31-2011, 05:56 AM   #10
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Got a compressor, no air dremel though. Should I get this?

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...der-95029.html
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:57 AM   #11
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Also, I can figure it out from that guide. Make sure it opens 90 degrees, smooth out the transition, open up the hole. The flapper cover is much bigger than the hole on one side, I should be able to open up the hole quite a bit from the look of it!
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:11 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagase View Post
Got a compressor, no air dremel though. Should I get this?

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...der-95029.html
That seems like it can get the job done, I just wouldnt recommend using a drimmel. I burnt one up porting SBC heads!

Quote:
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Also, I can figure it out from that guide. Make sure it opens 90 degrees, smooth out the transition, open up the hole. The flapper cover is much bigger than the hole on one side, I should be able to open up the hole quite a bit from the look of it!
and make sure you polish were you gring to cut down on possible cracks from groove line hotspots. Not really perfect but fairly smooth!
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:13 AM   #13
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I've burnt up wayyyyy too many dremels in the past. Getting an air one would cut down on my long term costs, to be honest.

They didn't touch on making the actual exit hole bigger in that guide, but the Garrett one is much different. I'll need to try to find a Garrett guide on it or something.
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:17 AM   #14
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:17 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagase View Post
I've burnt up wayyyyy too many dremels in the past. Getting an air one would cut down on my long term costs, to be honest.

They didn't touch on making the actual exit hole bigger in that guide, but the Garrett one is much different. I'll need to try to find a Garrett guide on it or something.
Just keep it oil and let it cool down from time to time. To be honest you can pick up a husky one from HD (I think its around 40 or 50 bucks, but it lasted me the 3 years I was working for Yamaha in a weld shop, grinding on welds and all kinds of ****. Still working the day I left) I went through about 10 Ingersol Rand die grinders in my time there. The HF one is worth a shot though!

Yeah, I figured I would post that one up to get the general idea across. I seen a guide some where a while back. I thought it was on FMs site (maybe BEGi) Im still looking! :lol:
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:18 AM   #16
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Found it, just posted.
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:20 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Found it, just posted.
I knew it was either FM or BEGi!
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Old 03-31-2011, 08:55 AM   #18
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Ok, I just watched that video! Pretty neat! What's the name of that grindy bit he was using? That just ate through the metal! Intense! And what're the name of the circle sanders? What's the name of that flat sander thing at the end? I'm new to air grinding tools. >.>
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:20 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagase View Post
Ok, I just watched that video! Pretty neat! What's the name of that grindy bit he was using? That just ate through the metal! Intense! And what're the name of the circle sanders? What's the name of that flat sander thing at the end? I'm new to air grinding tools. >.>
The grinding tool is a Carbide grinding bit (kinda pricy, I might have one at home I can mail to you. Ill be home in a week and can check) I always just called the sanding bits he used sanding drums (dont know the exact name, but you should be albe to buy them at a local HD or Lowes. you will want a coarse grit (round 180) to knock down the rough spots and around 280-300 grit to polish.

When your grinding with the carbide bit you have to be really carefull, they like to bite into the metal and start bouncing around. You gotta always pay attention to what your doing and keep a tight grip on you die grinder.
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:29 AM   #20
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haha, you can mod the HF die grinders to get more ummphhh out of em! :lol:

link to the instructions:http://www.arboristsite.com/off-topic-forum/155841.htm

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