Anything wrong with crappy oil lines?
 

OIL FEED LINE & TURBO OIL RETURN KIT TC XB MIATA MX5:eBay Motors (item 270476187876 end time Nov-05-09 18:38:54 PST)

Stuff like that

BEGi Bell Engineering Miata Turbo fittings, AN Fittings, Metric fittings, oil l - BEGi

Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : Parts and upgrades : Hard lines for water and oil lines

id say invest in either of these!

gotta pay to play! buy the other shit and you MIGHT spring some leaks not to long after install!

100% Brand New, Really High Quality

thats whats wrong lol. I like how they say, REALLY HIGH QUALITY

I think id be worried about quality of the annodization, might be some cheap sprayed and would flake under heat but thats not something major

"1/8 NPT Adaptor - male fitting goes with the block."
Fail.

"All of turbo parts do need to modification in order to fits perfectly."
Yes, but do fitting not hit block?

shit flake?????

more like melt, catch on fire, and fuck your car up!

Is it really that much of a task to save another 10 or 20 bucks?

Well I'm doing this on the cheap, so if I have to fork out for the BEGI or FM lines, I will, but how hard can it be to screw up lines?

not much on your end can be done.................more or less the parts failing!

Anodization does not catch on fire, its actually a hardened surface using oxidation and acids, It shouldnt flake unless its not anodized. Aluminum melts at 11XX degrees Fahrenheit. Last time i checked oil temps were around 200*F

dude order all your shit off summit racing and use summit racing AN fitting and there hose now there stuff is the good stuff.

have you ever heard of the word EXAGGERATION ?

forgot about that option! +1 on that one

a friend of mine here used there stuff, actually i think JEGS. his setup works great!

You get what you pay for. I bought a drain fitting off ebay and it didn't fit worth shit. I had to modify the hell out of that thing to get it to work. Never again ebay!

This person is asking a honest question. Dont feed him false information. Im simply stating the physical properties of said oil line kit. If you were new to the forum and asked an honest question, (after reading the FAQ of course) you would expect an honest answer; would you not?

Read post number 2!

honest advice, please read a lil more!

My ebay oil feed line works just fine.

In all honesty those ebay AN fittings dont look bad at all but if you order all summit brand parts from summit racing you'll spend half of what you would on ebay and get KNOWN quality pieces.

There is an eBay company out there that makes a Volvo header (IIRC, might be for another make) with the head flange welded in upside down, so the exhaust faces up and forward. You decide whether they are capable of screwing up a braided stainless steel line with crimp fittings.

That may be true....but I'm pretty sure EGTs can reach in excess of 1600 degrees. If you've got a line feeding a turbo, it's not too far from basically a HUGE heat source. I don't know how much heat dissipates within a few inches of radiation...but I would imagine that it's possible to see really high temps in the center of the turbo. Is it possible that it could lead to eventually fatigue/part failure? Just curious.

Hi have that kit in my miata, no problems.
It's pretty decent and does the job.

It may have happened, but from personal experience working/welding with aluminum every day this is what i think. Aluminum dissipates heat at a high rate compared to steel. The oil supplying the turbo will also cool the lines. I would doubt it unless you were out of oil and really rev happy at which point your turbo would not make boost anymore. More than likely you will catch up on this and stop driving before your fittings blow. :2cents:

i'm just curious why doesnt any one use hard lines like the brake lines?

Since the turbo is bolted and not moving whats the problem?

first off that noob on the last page needs to introduce himself or there will be problems... and second OP get a hold of artech he's got good quality kits in all sizes and price ranges!!

maybe it's too much effort and no one wants that ugly shit anyway unless it's made by a robot......

I dont really see an upside with hard lines vs rubber ( for the MT.netters). With the SS braided its bendable and can be reused for different turbo kits. The hard lines would have to be manufactured specifically for the turbo kit. Why fix something that aint broke?

Also whats wrong with bending the pipe? Its not hard and will be much more durable especially since you can use brackets to hold it in place

If you are switching turbo kits like you switch socks thats another story.

Pipe doesnt just bend unless you know what your doing. It has to be massaged to prevent pinching. Pinched lines = bad churby. Most likely will cost more and isnt worth the time. Call me old fashioned but i think the SS braided lines are; cheaper, look better, same performance, reusable, flexible, and just plain cool.

buy a tool to bend the line.. its very easy.

getting a good seal on the ends of hard lines can be a pain, and getting the right fittings would be too, its just not worth it. But by all means, make your kit with all hard lines and post pictures, I would like to see it.

Many quality OEM turbo sets have hard lines for oil feed and return.
So there is no problem to do it with hard lines.

Here's pic how MB have done the oil lines:
http://oh1jty.toimii.net/auto/intercooler/IMG_3231.JPG

Hopefully you don't mean me.
Me not :noob:

I think if I was on a lonely highway in the middle of nowhere I'd want to have the peace of mind of knowing my oil fittings didn't come from Ebay.

There's just some things you shouldn't trust ebay for...The problem I've always had with ebay is things are close but not perfect. The ad says for a garret t25 but that's not what you end up getting...etc.

^ the man is right.

That's a universal kit. More than likely you will need additional parts to make everything fit and that will likely bring the price to something higher than one of the better kits. For starters, that turbo inlet flange does not fit a T25, so if that's what you have, you will need an adapter for it. Also, the oil pan fitting they're including is a weld on bung. Unless you want to drop the subframe, you'll need an adapter fitting for this as well. Those brass tees, are known to break off. I've personally had it happen. To prevent it, you may need a looped copper line between the tee and block. Also, the tee is NPT threaded. You will cross-thread your BSPT oil pressure sender by screwing it directly. It's not clear if a BSPT>NPT adapter is included for the block, if not, you will strip that as well.

I would also question the quality of their SS feed line. You want a teflon inner liner to handle the heat. Judging by the size of that line, I'd bet its rubber lined, which is only good for 200-250F.

If you have a 90-95 block the best setup is what I have in my sig. The motor already has a oil port on the drivers side so you don't need to tee into the oil pressure sender at all.

Hard coolant lines break, unless you use stainless, and you'll make one bend with that shit and then buy all braided stainless stuff.

Properly made and supported mild steel lines shouldn't break, but if you're going to go to the trouble might as well use stainless.

Someone said further back that hard lines are hard to get sealed. This can be true if you're using flared lines, but for water lines an industrial compression fitting is stupid simple and you have to work to make them not seal up. For low pressure water lines (and really even the oil lines are low pressure from an industrial standpoint), the compression fittings are more than adequate.

That said... I'm going to make mine from Earls fittings and hose, much easier to make and route.

At this point looking at all of the people on this site that have done it, or redone it, some cases multiple times, think Tim, or Hustler. Why not just go with whats been proven to work. Innovation is one thing, but hard lines aren't innovation.

What this man said, I don't see any issue with the properties of the eGay lines, but for $20 extra if they're guaranteed to fit, I'm buying somewhere else.

I think they are the same, but this setup will fit a Garrett t3 as well?

JEGS Pro-Flo 350 Series Braided Hose - JEGS

It weighs like half as much as steel braided and does not conduct electricity it is also 10x as easy to cut and assemble (no prickly stainless steel threads)

I have just got the same kit for my 2560R. Trust me, nothing in the kit fits a t2,t28 etc. Worse, some of the connectors arrived dented.

"Not for use in extreme heat situations." Whatever that means...?

SS is considered the basic performance standard because it's been proven repeatedly. You can get reasonably priced SS from Abe on this board, or DIY from Summit without breaking the bank. Stop trying to reinvent the wheel and/or cheap out on a critical-failure part. Personally I'd rather skip buying beer for a couple of weeks and know that the next time I'm turning 8 grand in 3rd gear I'm not going to pop a low-quality line that I saved $5 on. :2cents:

Same, I bought it taking a risk. I guess sometimes they pay off and sometimes they don't.

I solved the oil feed with a simple adapter I got at a hardware store, I don't know what I'm going to do about the oil return line though. I guess you live and learn.

These seller does not know what they are selling. It's a
waste of time after tearing everything Apart and finding that parts does not fit. Sometimes paying a few $$$ more for quality product from begi or flyin miata makes more sense