No problem, I know that sucks having to keep pulling it! When I was turbo I always ran mild steel 16 gauge as it was cheap and reliable and no brace required because wall thickness was like .065". But alas my exhaust system probably weighed at least twice what yours does and certainly was not as pretty!
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1221662)
No problem, I know that sucks having to keep pulling it! When I was turbo I always ran mild steel 16 gauge as it was cheap and reliable and no brace required because wall thickness was like .065". But alas my exhaust system probably weighed at least twice what yours does and certainly was not as pretty!
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 1221659)
My recommendation is to add a brace to take the load off the downpipe. If that was 16 gauge mild steel tube it wouldn't be cracking since it could handle that load no problem. But it would be heavy and not as pretty. If you want thin wall stainless, you can't put huge loads on it and expect it to last. |
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1221690)
How did we conclude this is thin walled? Might it not be 16 GA SST?
No, I don't know what gauge it is actually, maybe the guy who made it can chime in? Or the OP can measure it and post. Actually a good point, if it IS 16 gauge then damn, I don't know how you keep breaking it! |
Abe just got back to me so now I just have to pull the pipe back out and get it shipped over to him
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11 Attachment(s)
DP Is out once again... Off to Abe tomorrow!
Installed/ Uninstalled pics for Artech. No contact with anything anywhere :-/ Attachment 184206 Attachment 184207 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1428356840 http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...psiyjpxyqz.jpg Attachment 184208 Attachment 184209 Attachment 184210 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1428356840 http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...pszeiucefg.jpg Attachment 184211 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1428356840 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1428356840 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1428356840 http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...psuxwghk8z.jpg |
You need a god damned flex pipe and brace.
Dann |
Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1221808)
You need a god damned flex pipe and brace.
Dann |
I said you need those 2 things because I know you don't have those 2 things.
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Shouldn't we be concerned that it's failing through the weld?
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thats standard failure mode.
Look at the welds in the photo on the downpipe, they are close to textbook perfect. Abe is clearly very skilled. |
He has a flex pipe in the downpipe and the wastegate pipe.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1221958)
He has a flex pipe in the downpipe and the wastegate pipe.
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Originally Posted by nitrodann
(Post 1221957)
thats standard failure mode.
. When I worked at Honda we did lots of testing for this exact thing, the tensile specimen was always required to fail in the base metal. If the specimen failed in the weld or in the HAZ then the test was considered a failure. I don't doubt Abe's skills at all. But in my experience, a failure straight through the weld bead is a big no-no. |
the way it split makes me think there's stress there, like the bend needed to open up a bit.
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Originally Posted by Efini~FC3S
(Post 1222355)
Really, that's weird. Every welding specification I've ever read requires that the material fail in the base metal and not in the weld.
When I worked at Honda we did lots of testing for this exact thing, the tensile specimen was always required to fail in the base metal. If the specimen failed in the weld or in the HAZ then the test was considered a failure. I don't doubt Abe's skills at all. But in my experience, a failure straight through the weld bead is a big no-no. |
Then why did it also fail the second weld with a nice fat filler mound there.
This is scary. I've welded a bunch of downpipes with no filler, no reinforcements, no flexes (basically any 'street car' setup i've done), and I'm a far inferior welder to abe, while using inferior material (vibrant bends instead of beautiful steam pipe bends). SO something's off with the car, not the pipe. What that is, I dunno. :dunno: How buzzy is your car? Running a chinese flywheel/clutch? |
Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1222369)
Then why did it also fail the second weld with a nice fat filler mound there.
This is scary. I've welded a bunch of downpipes with no filler, no reinforcements, no flexes (basically any 'street car' setup i've done), and I'm a far inferior welder to abe, while using inferior material (vibrant bends instead of beautiful steam pipe bends). SO something's off with the car, not the pipe. What that is, I dunno. :dunno: How buzzy is your car? Running a chinese flywheel/clutch? The only thing I noticed when removing the downpipe yesterday was that the exhaust seemed to be pulling down on the back side of the downpipe. I'm assuming that was putting stress on the weld that cracked and thats why it split. I fully plan to add a brace and see what happens this time. In other news, i'm now a pro at pulling my downpipe. Literally had it out in like 20 mins yesterday compared to 2 hours the first time (Granted, the anti-seize was still fresh on the downpipe hardware) |
That shit gets everywhere but it's worth its weight in gold.
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 1222369)
Then why did it also fail the second weld with a nice fat filler mound there.
This is scary. I've welded a bunch of downpipes with no filler, no reinforcements, no flexes (basically any 'street car' setup i've done), and I'm a far inferior welder to abe, while using inferior material (vibrant bends instead of beautiful steam pipe bends). SO something's off with the car, not the pipe. What that is, I dunno. :dunno: How buzzy is your car? Running a chinese flywheel/clutch? But I dunno. Seems to me something is putting really high stress in that spot. Hence why I recommended a brace. Random though, but if his EGT's were really high for some reason, would that contribute to this failure? |
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