Just a fyi:

I broke 4 studs removing things on two manis and sheared another 3 while driving (again on two diff manis - I think Corkey got tired of machining the broken studs out (but in his defence he didn't complain once) :-) M10 seems to hold up well - though I'm still wary of tightening / removing them (the heat cycles really seem to weaken studs...). I did hit them with PBW and tap them with the hammer prior to attempting to remove on the M8s.

 

Kit looks good btw, you can prob have someone else turn ignition on while you listen at the rear deck to check the oe pump.

 

Are you guys torquing the studs properly along with the nuts, they cant be that fragile.
Why dont the studs on the engine crack so readily as the manifold?

 

Bell uses top lock nuts (instead of nodlock washers and normal nuts) that actually cut into the threads a bit - they hold better than anything shy of safety wire but eat into the studs a bit - and when you loosen them they tend to stick. I was torking them fyi. The studs on the exhaust mani are a bit bigger if memory serves and I'm thinking that those studs since they are in the head don't see quite as much heat as the ones the turbo actually sit on. Dunno didn't have that problem with the main exhaust mani studs.. Some of the M8 studs the turbo sat on actually just sheared off while driving but no probs on the M10s Google broken turbo stud and see how many links you get - seems this has been a problem in general even with OE turbos for a long time now - Kudos to Bell for going with big studs :-)

 

If you get your mani ccoated I'd reccomend running a tap thru the turbo stud holes prior to reinstalling the studs (or have the shop do it) - the ccoating can get into the threads and you can easily break a stud reinstalling it with the extra thickness in the threads.

 

Maybe something to do with being substantially larger and not subjected to 1650 F. heat cycles... but that's just a guess. That water jacketed aluminum head makes a great heat sink.

Mark

 

Mark, are you running a 6-speed with that power?

Would a swap to nuts and flat+lock washers be a better plan than the tweaked nuts?

 

he is running a 6 speed I dont think the washers will do it for you if you have breakage issues a better stud is the only option i like lock washers to help with stuff just comming untorqued though.

 

Check the fuel injection fuse under the hood. I also think you've tapped into the wrong wire. Tim is in and out of the office today. Give us a call if you want to talk to him.
Stephanie

 

I personally use lock washers and nuts, the studs were holding up for me. Seems to work ok for me.

Yes, I am running the 6 speed with the 3.636 Torsen.

Mark

 

Thanks steph. If it was any help. it was the red and blue wire in the rear decklid. Also is there another power location under the car that can be used?

 

Pump cuts on now, still getting no pressure, giving the shop a call.

 

Your in FLA and thinking about removing the AC? You like heat and humidity? If this is a DD keep it in if you can!

I must really be getting old. I like my AC, power windows, power steering...

 

Well, Drew is now boosted! He took it for an innaugural spin and was quite pleased.

 

Runs awesome, in exception if a horrible exhaust leak, I need to diagnose.
But it feels nice to boost. When I let off the throttle, it seems to want to IDLE around 200 RPMS after boosting. (May be because of the exhaust leak.)

 

Found the exhaust leak, apparently I didn't bolt my O2 sensor in very well.

 

Awesome to hear you got it going. Hopefully things will be smoother from here on out.

 

siq man

 

Everything is up and running great. I got one Check engine light, but I think an o2 clamp will solve that.

 

Got another problem, when it hits full boost now, the car seems to want to buck after things heat up. Is this a bipes setting I can correct? Am I getting too much retard? Does anyone have any settings on theirs they would like to share?