Beginnings of my new build...
 

Been selling off lots of my old setup as I have a new one on the way. I bought Brian's (neogenesis2004) old car, basically for the built engine which will be swapped into the brg, and I am having a custom turbo kit based around a GT2871R built. Here are some teaser pics of the manifold by Rob at Flipside Customs. Granted, it's pretty much a copy of Kelly's old ramhorn, but it's been awhile since we've seen that. ;)

http://i30.tinypic.com/epeqsg.jpg
http://i29.tinypic.com/1zqcyuh.jpg
http://i31.tinypic.com/28sl9vp.jpg
http://i32.tinypic.com/25twccz.jpg
http://i26.tinypic.com/hvc7co.jpg

First post, Tom likes men who can fab stuff like that. (edited)

nice!

whats the rest of the setup going to be?

a motor that pwns j00 + a turbo/manifold/exhaust that pwn j00

sick sick sick tom. not gonna be ready for apr 5 huh?

Yeah no turbo for dyno day, but I am going to baseline dyno NA as it's not a typical NA engine. ;)

As for the rest of the build, the plans are for a 38mm Tial EWG, 3" SS downpipe with EWG joining in later, and a 3" SS exhaust. I already have an IC setup based on a 18x9x3 core IC and will likely add progressive WI on top as redline will be somewhere in the 8500rpm area and boost will probably be north of 18psi. We'll see. This is going to take a bit, but it's gonna be fun. :)

Damn, very slick. I haven't seen those turbo collectors made from schedule 40 yet, I guess Rob makes them himself. Turbo is moved forward from center which should help with the DP.

I can't take any credit for the built engine (all props to Brian) but here are the specs for those that are interested. Based on a 1.6L:

HEAD

• ported intake/exhaust
• 5 angle valve job
• custom Integral cams with more lift/duration
• Fidanza cam gears
• shim under bucket conversion with MS solid lifters
• Supertech valvetrain with stiffest springs
• ceramic coated exhaust and combustion chambers
• cleaned combustion chambers/bowls
• cometic HG
• ARP head studs

SHORTBLOCK

• CAT rods
• Wiseco 8.5:1, 0.020 overbore pistons
• ACL bearings
• rotating assembly balanced to 10k rpm
• billet oil pump gears
• Techline ceramic coated piston top
• Techline dry film lube side pistons
• Techline oil shedding bottom coat pistons
• Cluchnet 3x PP + 6 puck disk

that's just... DAAYUMMM

I agree with Ben... DAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYUMMMMMMMMMMMMMNNNN!!!
I want to do similar thing to my head minus the solid lifters(any advantage to having solid? I also want to bore and change the pistons with H-rods from FM..
I just built a motor with ceramic coated piston tops, its in a car right now running and he LOVES it!

i think solid lifters get rid of valve float letting it rev higher

ahah. makes sense... what about the valve spring on FM says it eliminates valve float to 9k rpm?

what happens when you go WOT...your oil pressure increases....

what happens if you you build a motor to rev to 9k, your oil pressure will exceed 90psi.

what's the cure?

A PC-Pro?

fiddle with the oil pump spring?

turbo oil feed restrictor. :D

nah, i suppose you could get a relief valve set to a max psi.

if oil pressure keep building, then hydraulic lifters keep valves open. so yes I guess valve float is a reason why. if you wanna increase your revs, you need solid lifters....Tom's motor can easily rev out to 10k without worries.

Not to mention with a solid lifter, the cam profile can be more aggressive (ramp rates and opening times), solids will make more power.

God damn. thats all I gotta say.

...i dont know if this is normal or not after brains post... what is everyones oil pressure? my is 90psi when the turbo is in use, 60 @idle

60 at idle? did you put SAE60 in there??