Blew the motor! Rebuild time.
07-01-2009, 12:04 AM
#22
Cpt. Slow
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Dude have you found out what's wrong yet?
I have the uber 1.6 engine. I reved it to 7250rpm multiple times a minute for a couple weeks when it was still my dad's car and it spun a crank bearing. Made a clicking noise but seemed to run normally, granted I was easy on it since I knew something was up. We balanced the rotating assembly along with rebuilding it (rings, gaskets, honing, etc), but then my dad assembled it without tightening one of the rod cap nuts, so it came loose and started smacking the valves. It drove less than a 1/4 mile like this before we tore it apart again and rebuilt it. 30k later I turbo it, run it uber lean for a while before finding out (because of my WB) that my fuel pump is bad and am now running a fairly safe bandaid tune. I have no idea how you people keep blowing engines, they're obviously bullet proof. (knocking on wood).
I have the uber 1.6 engine. I reved it to 7250rpm multiple times a minute for a couple weeks when it was still my dad's car and it spun a crank bearing. Made a clicking noise but seemed to run normally, granted I was easy on it since I knew something was up. We balanced the rotating assembly along with rebuilding it (rings, gaskets, honing, etc), but then my dad assembled it without tightening one of the rod cap nuts, so it came loose and started smacking the valves. It drove less than a 1/4 mile like this before we tore it apart again and rebuilt it. 30k later I turbo it, run it uber lean for a while before finding out (because of my WB) that my fuel pump is bad and am now running a fairly safe bandaid tune. I have no idea how you people keep blowing engines, they're obviously bullet proof. (knocking on wood).
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07-01-2009, 01:23 AM
#23
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Dude have you found out what's wrong yet?
I have the uber 1.6 engine. I reved it to 7250rpm multiple times a minute for a couple weeks when it was still my dad's car and it spun a crank bearing. Made a clicking noise but seemed to run normally, granted I was easy on it since I knew something was up. We balanced the rotating assembly along with rebuilding it (rings, gaskets, honing, etc), but then my dad assembled it without tightening one of the rod cap nuts, so it came loose and started smacking the valves. It drove less than a 1/4 mile like this before we tore it apart again and rebuilt it. 30k later I turbo it, run it uber lean for a while before finding out (because of my WB) that my fuel pump is bad and am now running a fairly safe bandaid tune. I have no idea how you people keep blowing engines, they're obviously bullet proof. (knocking on wood).
I have the uber 1.6 engine. I reved it to 7250rpm multiple times a minute for a couple weeks when it was still my dad's car and it spun a crank bearing. Made a clicking noise but seemed to run normally, granted I was easy on it since I knew something was up. We balanced the rotating assembly along with rebuilding it (rings, gaskets, honing, etc), but then my dad assembled it without tightening one of the rod cap nuts, so it came loose and started smacking the valves. It drove less than a 1/4 mile like this before we tore it apart again and rebuilt it. 30k later I turbo it, run it uber lean for a while before finding out (because of my WB) that my fuel pump is bad and am now running a fairly safe bandaid tune. I have no idea how you people keep blowing engines, they're obviously bullet proof. (knocking on wood).
And interesting pics above, any ideas?
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07-01-2009, 06:57 AM
#27
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Yeah, I was quite amazed at the condition of all the bearings and cylinder walls. The entire motor other than the rod (and the WEAKKK piston rings) seems to be in great shape.
I have been having some issues with noise in my CAS signal to megasquirt. It would randomly spike to like 65000 (yes sixty five thousand) RPMS...causing the rev limiter to blip for a millisecond and i would have a lean spike with no spark. I always had this happen on highway cruise but I'm thinking this may have been the one time it happened under boost and it just didn't make the rods too happy.
Either way I am excited to rebuild. The head looks decent and I should get away with new rods, bearings, ring, gaskets and a quick clean and hone. Stock pistons FTL, but I think I would rather have a coolant reroute, dual feed fuel rail, and bigger rad before I go bigger pistons and end up convincing myself to turn up the boost or something.
I have been having some issues with noise in my CAS signal to megasquirt. It would randomly spike to like 65000 (yes sixty five thousand) RPMS...causing the rev limiter to blip for a millisecond and i would have a lean spike with no spark. I always had this happen on highway cruise but I'm thinking this may have been the one time it happened under boost and it just didn't make the rods too happy.
Either way I am excited to rebuild. The head looks decent and I should get away with new rods, bearings, ring, gaskets and a quick clean and hone. Stock pistons FTL, but I think I would rather have a coolant reroute, dual feed fuel rail, and bigger rad before I go bigger pistons and end up convincing myself to turn up the boost or something.
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07-31-2009, 08:48 PM
#29
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Im putting the engine back together this weekend, getting it back from the shop 2morro i think.
Here are some pics of random progress:
And i got poking when i shouldnt have...
Pass side was hacked by me in the past and needs to be done right, drivers side was a supprise. Ill be fixing this soon.
Here are some pics of random progress:
And i got poking when i shouldnt have...
Pass side was hacked by me in the past and needs to be done right, drivers side was a supprise. Ill be fixing this soon.
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08-01-2009, 12:03 AM
#31
I thought that I was going to join you today. I had it running good at 10 psi. I had it at 11 psi and I heard some knock. This is on a 99 9.5 motor so I would guess that's about the same as 13 on a 9.0. Also a T25.
I need to get it back down to 10 before going into boost again.
I need to get it back down to 10 before going into boost again.
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08-01-2009, 05:40 AM
#34
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Unfortunatly I chose to put a few things before pistons on my list, so my build only includes upgrading the rods and ARP head studs. I want to worry about cooling, wheels, tires, and sways before I bother with pistons. I figure before I reach that point I would need a bigger turbo and clutch anyway.
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08-03-2009, 05:24 PM
#36
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Found out why I have always had low compression and only dynoed 98 rwhp stock...
My head needed to be done. He did a leak test and found a few of my exhaust valves werent sealing...
Oh you gotta love the machine shop Bill :(
My head needed to be done. He did a leak test and found a few of my exhaust valves werent sealing...
Oh you gotta love the machine shop Bill :(
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08-03-2009, 08:24 PM
#38
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Because I am a BROKE college student.. and i expected to run into some things that would already increase the price of my build..... aka my head needing work.
Plus, Ive thought it through, and I will need to upgrade my clutch LONG before I surpass what the stock pistons can hold... And i need new tires and wheels (runnin 205 crappy bald all seasons)
So i guess the question is:
Why not upgrade the turbo so you can then have to upgrade the clutch so you can then have to upgrade the pistons so you then should upgrade the head, but then you really need a coolant reroute and rad. and oh yeah... TIRES.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Trust me I thought long and hard about where my limited funds should go.
Plus, Ive thought it through, and I will need to upgrade my clutch LONG before I surpass what the stock pistons can hold... And i need new tires and wheels (runnin 205 crappy bald all seasons)
So i guess the question is:
Why not upgrade the turbo so you can then have to upgrade the clutch so you can then have to upgrade the pistons so you then should upgrade the head, but then you really need a coolant reroute and rad. and oh yeah... TIRES.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Trust me I thought long and hard about where my limited funds should go.
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08-03-2009, 08:33 PM
#39
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Cool man, as long as you've thought it out.
Personally after spending a shitload of money on the expensive part of the build(the build/machine work part), I would without a doubt be putting in full forged internals.
Your argument is not the same, because you do not have to pull apart the motor in order to install a clutch, coolant reroute, tires, etc.
Personally after spending a shitload of money on the expensive part of the build(the build/machine work part), I would without a doubt be putting in full forged internals.
Your argument is not the same, because you do not have to pull apart the motor in order to install a clutch, coolant reroute, tires, etc.
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08-03-2009, 08:37 PM
#40
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trust me Im sorda regretting it, but I need to pay rent and insurance... and i just bought a winter beater because I really needed a second mode of transporation. You can always pull apart a clean motor and throw it back together as long as nothing is damaged. If I ever have the money for a turbo, clutch, reroute, and tires....... then I will probably have the money to redo the motor as well.
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