Bolt stuck on turbo
 

I'm having trouble with one of the bolt on the exhaust side of the turbo. It's one of bolts holding on the metal plates. I've tried soaking it in pb blaster over night and also throwing the turbo in the freezer then taking a torch to the exhaust side of the turbo. Nothing seems to get this bolt unstuck. What makes it worse is that only the open end if the wrench and it will slip off the bolt.

I'm close to thinking of cutting the head of the bolt of and drilling the rest of the bolt out.

What do ya'll think?

I just had this same problem. I had 2 studs stuck. I got one out by using the heat gun + fence pliers. I used a heat gun on it and tapped on it with a hammer then eventually took the pliers to it. It took about 30 minutes but finally came out. the second one i just snapped off and retapped. I gave up when the above method did not work. They were 8mm anyway so i just made them all 10mm.

Heat heat heat

wobble head socket and impact.

no space for a socket. only enough space for the open end side of a wrench.

put a pipe on other side of said wrench?
pull
?????
profit

:fael:

Clearify with a pic of the situation. Gotta be a way.

wrench just slips off. The edges are a little rounded off.

pic of said bolt

So I ended up just cutting the bolt off. Now to the task of removing the exhaust housing.

Bummer. Next time, use a jackhandle or broomstick to clock the housing slightly in relation to CHRA so you can get a box-end wrench on it.

Now, when you put it back together, anti-seize.

Weld something it, and loose it

BUMPING this thread, because i had the exact same issue last night and now I'm looking to resolve it. Same exact bolt, i got the other 3 by using the box end of the wrench, but you cannot fit a box end on this bolt due to where it's at.

Do you mean to slightly clock the turbo even though the last bolt isn't loosened? Do you mind elaborating sav?

Anyone else have any other ideas, the open end of the wrench just flexes and cant provide the torque i need to loosen this thing, box end wont fit. Heat didn't work because the root problem is that the open end of a wrench sucks.

I just cut the head off the bolt. The rest of the bolt came out easily after that. You can easily get a new bolt at lowe's or home depot.

I had to do some impressive jacking with a bolt and nut on my turbo to get the CHRA out, I'd be surprised if you could rotate it without loosening that. I vote for bolt cutting.

https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...ly-help-63552/

Dang, this is what I had feared. Okay, I'm going to soak it more in PB blaster, try heat - maybe try the freezer method. If all else fails i'll resort to cutting.

Thanks, and if anyone else has suggestions please do chime in.

Soak soak soak in PB blaster. Try spraying some inside the exhaust housing to hit the other end as the bolts poke through.

I did it with an open end. Kind of hammered it onto the bolt head for a snug fit, braced the turbo on the ground in a way that it wouldn't move with downward force on the wrench, and wailed on the wrench/bolt combo many times with a rubber mallet plus my weight pushing down. I was about to give up when it broke loose lol.

No heat here, just a few days of spraying and smashing.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1360722115
had a similar probleme whit my t 25 but its broken studs. whats the best way to remove those studs? i dont have acces to hot heat except for propane plumbing torche

double nut.

I paid a machine shop $75 to remove that exact stud, after trying LOTS of my own methods.

double bolts dindt work ... i think i use the same method as curly

This.

I run into this stuff all the time on the farm, and it usually ends up being the better choice just to have somebody who has the tools and know-how to get this stuff out.

Bump to an old thread, looking for a bit of help. I ended up cutting the head off the stuck bolt i had on the hotside preventing me from clocking it. After cutting the head off the bolt, i was able to pull the turbo apart and easily remove the rest of the bolt with some vice grips. Worked great.

NOW, I need some new bolts, i'd like to replace at least 2 of them (1 other is somewhat damaged, 1 completely fubard). I'd imagine that you cant just buy some bolts from the hardware store or whatever for this due to the extreme heat cycling they would see. Where can i get some very strong replacement bolts for the hotside housing?

If anyone has any idea how i should proceed with this, please let me know.

Get the highest grade bolts available. I believe metric is 10.9 and standard is grade 8. You can get them at some hardware stores. Assuming its a normal thread size.

I would double check on the effectiveness of grade 8/metric 10.9 bolts. IIRC they might be worse than using metric 8.8 bolts because they don't match cast iron's thermal expansion rate very well. The whole idea of using inconel studs in cast iron manifolds is due their sexy matching. Standard 8.8 bolts match cast iron better than the 10.9 which may want to break on you when it comes time to remove them again. This is what I remember from the epic studs/nuts thread on this site.

This part of the turbo probably isn't as hot as the manifold to inlet, but I would assume its close enough to care.

I'm not suggesting you source inconel for these 4, but I wouldn't use metric 10.9/standard grade 8 without verifying it's a good idea. See if you can source whatever comes in the rebuild kits; maybe call G-pop shop and see what they supply.

Yeah, I was really looking for something OEM spec. Perhaps I'll call one of these shops and see what they use. I'm paranoid about just using some bolts from the hardware store on this.

Don't we have a thread around here somewhere with links to Nissan OEM 8mm bolts (and studs) in inconel? They might be a bitch to shorten, but they are like $4-5/ea and I bet they would hold up better than Ace Hardware fasteners if you are really worried about it.

Thanks for the replies guys. Contacted gpopshop, ended up getting 4 new ones for just under $20 shipped.

Not bad i guess. Peace of mind at least. Thanks again turbros

Nice! What material?

I put all stainless hardware on my turbo.

Am i the only one to have done this?

Honestly, not a clue. They just said they are "OEM" spec, and they are what they sell with their t25 rebuild kits.

I'm really dreading the SR20 disassembly I need to do, I expect I'll need more than a couple bolts before I'm done. Smokewrench and Kroil ready to roll :vash2:

I find it funny when i was taking my turbo apart for the port job that i actually broke one of my wrenches. I think it was a Proto wrench. Not the best tool, but not the worst either.

I broke 2 open ends doing it, LOL. Both crafstman junk - but at least i can warranty them.

I really love my oldschool Craftsman wrench sets. I've been collecting them for $1 here and there at garage sales and swap meets for years. You can really tell the difference between the new stuff and the old stuff.

Yeah, my dad always talks about the old days when craftsman wasn't cheap Chinese shit. The 2 that I broke you could see air bubbles or "pores" in the casting where they broke.

I'm really not impressed with the pair of newer 3/8" drive ratchets I bought new as parts of socket sets. I've already broken (and replaced) both of them using just my manly hand strength. I've not split a socket yet, but I guess if the weak point is the ratchet, I may never get there.

I fucking LOVE my old Craftsman 1/2" drive breaker bar. That thing was sitting on my kitchen table when my house burned down around it and I still use it to this day. I put a 4' cheater pipe plus my hefty 220lb bulk on it while trying to break the lugs loose on a tractor and it survived, so I'm not worried about the temper. :giggle:

I love my kobalt 3/8 drive one. Takes my full weight standing on the HF aluminum jack handle + some bouncing required to loosen the axle nuts. I was expecting the head to shatter and to loose an eye. :party: