I paid a machine shop $75 to remove that exact stud, after trying LOTS of my own methods.

 

double bolts dindt work ... i think i use the same method as curly

 

This.

I run into this stuff all the time on the farm, and it usually ends up being the better choice just to have somebody who has the tools and know-how to get this stuff out.

 

Bump to an old thread, looking for a bit of help. I ended up cutting the head off the stuck bolt i had on the hotside preventing me from clocking it. After cutting the head off the bolt, i was able to pull the turbo apart and easily remove the rest of the bolt with some vice grips. Worked great.

NOW, I need some new bolts, i'd like to replace at least 2 of them (1 other is somewhat damaged, 1 completely fubard). I'd imagine that you cant just buy some bolts from the hardware store or whatever for this due to the extreme heat cycling they would see. Where can i get some very strong replacement bolts for the hotside housing?

If anyone has any idea how i should proceed with this, please let me know.

 

Get the highest grade bolts available. I believe metric is 10.9 and standard is grade 8. You can get them at some hardware stores. Assuming its a normal thread size.

 

I would double check on the effectiveness of grade 8/metric 10.9 bolts. IIRC they might be worse than using metric 8.8 bolts because they don't match cast iron's thermal expansion rate very well. The whole idea of using inconel studs in cast iron manifolds is due their sexy matching. Standard 8.8 bolts match cast iron better than the 10.9 which may want to break on you when it comes time to remove them again. This is what I remember from the epic studs/nuts thread on this site.

This part of the turbo probably isn't as hot as the manifold to inlet, but I would assume its close enough to care.

I'm not suggesting you source inconel for these 4, but I wouldn't use metric 10.9/standard grade 8 without verifying it's a good idea. See if you can source whatever comes in the rebuild kits; maybe call G-pop shop and see what they supply.

 

Yeah, I was really looking for something OEM spec. Perhaps I'll call one of these shops and see what they use. I'm paranoid about just using some bolts from the hardware store on this.

 

Don't we have a thread around here somewhere with links to Nissan OEM 8mm bolts (and studs) in inconel? They might be a bitch to shorten, but they are like $4-5/ea and I bet they would hold up better than Ace Hardware fasteners if you are really worried about it.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. Contacted gpopshop, ended up getting 4 new ones for just under $20 shipped.

Not bad i guess. Peace of mind at least. Thanks again turbros

 

Nice! What material?

 

I put all stainless hardware on my turbo.

Am i the only one to have done this?

 

Honestly, not a clue. They just said they are "OEM" spec, and they are what they sell with their t25 rebuild kits.

 

I'm really dreading the SR20 disassembly I need to do, I expect I'll need more than a couple bolts before I'm done. Smokewrench and Kroil ready to roll

 

I find it funny when i was taking my turbo apart for the port job that i actually broke one of my wrenches. I think it was a Proto wrench. Not the best tool, but not the worst either.

 

I broke 2 open ends doing it, LOL. Both crafstman junk - but at least i can warranty them.

 

I really love my oldschool Craftsman wrench sets. I've been collecting them for $1 here and there at garage sales and swap meets for years. You can really tell the difference between the new stuff and the old stuff.

 

Yeah, my dad always talks about the old days when craftsman wasn't cheap Chinese ****. The 2 that I broke you could see air bubbles or "pores" in the casting where they broke.

 

I'm really not impressed with the pair of newer 3/8" drive ratchets I bought new as parts of socket sets. I've already broken (and replaced) both of them using just my manly hand strength. I've not split a socket yet, but I guess if the weak point is the ratchet, I may never get there.

I ******* LOVE my old Craftsman 1/2" drive breaker bar. That thing was sitting on my kitchen table when my house burned down around it and I still use it to this day. I put a 4' cheater pipe plus my hefty 220lb bulk on it while trying to break the lugs loose on a tractor and it survived, so I'm not worried about the temper.

 

I love my kobalt 3/8 drive one. Takes my full weight standing on the HF aluminum jack handle + some bouncing required to loosen the axle nuts. I was expecting the head to shatter and to loose an eye.