Bought NateTheShake/neogenesis2004's Ford Mineral Turbo Miata
 

http://i53.tinypic.com/9kxf1i.jpg
http://i53.tinypic.com/2zg8akx.jpg

Hi, I'm a total car noob and picked this up. The car dies %90 percent of the time on full stops. I drove it the other day and the rpms at idle aren't steady. Sometimes at a stop it is fine, usually it will die. After it dies it will take 5-15 seconds before the engine will turn over and it starts. I see the "charge" battery light come on when it dies and asked the seller if it was that and he said it isn't. He knows a bit about cars and I'm pretty sure if it was those small things he would just say it needs a new battery/alternator then "it needs to get tuned right"The car's engine feels fine as long as I don't do a complete stop. Anyone in the Philadelphia area want to take a look at it? There are tons of stop signs/red lights here. :(

Also tell me everything you know about this car. Mods can move this if I put it in the wrong section. What program do I need for my laptop.

Link/info about the car when it was sold on here. I bought it from the guy who traded a 4x4 for it.

https://www.miataturbo.net/cars-sale-trade-6/1992-mazda-miata-%24%244500-51095/

How much money did you spend on this thing? Where exactly are you from, and what laptop do you have / what OS are you using?

If this car belonged to two members surely they posted info on it. Search their posts and what not.

I'm diggin' that body. Treat her well.

I'd start with the MS. When It left my hands is was stock, running on the stock ECU. Had no issues then. Now it has MS and you say it has idle and hot start issues. So I would guess that both of those things need better tuning. Thats about as much as I can help though, I suck at tuning idle and other shit like that. I would try getting a msq from Brain again, completely reflashing the firmware on the MS maybe, and then reloading the new msq. Then you can at least hopefully rule out the firmware being corrupt. Plus you'll also get a msq that has been combed over for 4-5 years.

Most likely its tuning and possibly parameters setup wrong. Just guesses though.

I built the MS, nate had emailed me once asking for help tuning, and that's probably just what it needs: major tuning.

$3600
Philadelphia.
Dell Mini 9" netbook with no free space. I have to buy an external drive.
Windows XP

It looks like I have a lot of reading to do or spend $???.00 to get it professionally tuned.

How much RWHP should I try for(with this setup) without braking something? and what PSI should I stay under?

Just read up on how to tune, I wouldn't say you need to dump money into a professional tune, unless you really want to. Start messing with accel/deccel settings, one at a time, to see if it helps.

I'd say whatever PSI gets you to 200hp is safe and easily possible.

Setting that rubber hose on top of the turbo manifold is a good idea.

With that reflective sleeve it doesn't matter for shit Trey. I had it like that back when I was having issues with my manifold glowing as red as the sun with the built motor I had in there and it never had a single issue. The hose is fine like that as long as its not making direct contact to the manifold, that sleeve is rated to reflect passive heat up to like 1200 F continuous. Just look back at my build thread if you need any more proof. I didn't even have a turbo heatshield that covered the top. I just used conduit tab mounts attached to the valve cover to keep it from falling down onto the manifold.

What type of sleeve is that? I bought some sleeving too and it fucking melted without touching anything

This is exactly what it is, should have 0 issues using it:
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/he...eld_sleeve.php

Id bleed the clutch and brakes, clutch master looks dirty.

What year is the car?

92

UPDATE!: It's been tuned! It no longer dies in the short test.
What kind of power should I be making. I put down 210 rwhp on the dyno. I'm not sure if it was held back a bit because of the 2nd issue listed below.

I have a belt squeal in the alternator. I need to tighten the belt.
I still have a stumble and I end up with missing data to the TunerStudio.
Could Possibly be one cylinder is not sparking every time it should.
or
Could be the CAS

The rpms sometime bounce from 2k-2.5k rpms at idle.
It sometimes dies at random but a lot less than before that the tuning did not fix.( i forget if this was in idle or not)
Possible CAS?
Coil Pack?
Spark plug or wires?
Ignition needs cleaning?

I have a small leak in one of the small coolant hoses on the left side. dripped only a little bit throughout the whole testing
http://i51.tinypic.com/2r56syg.jpg

your Idle settings for your DIYPNP need to be tuned, can you post the MSQ?

IF you can datalog the stumble event, we can probably determine the cause.

I let them do all the programing.
Here's a comment on the miata;
"we couldnt even get before numbers, the tune was absolutely horrible lol

it was 17.5 AFR almost everywhere accept idle.

just creeping into boost at 3k it was still extremely lean 17-20 afr..

very scary.

on a rich pull with less timing it made 180rwhp

cleaned up to an 11.80 and 18deg timing it did 210rwhp

i was most impressed with the 186ftlbs of tq!

car has an ignition issue though, bad hall effect sensor or crank/cam sensor
every now and then it comes out of synch with the ecu and you get junk in and junk out and it will have a tiny miss and blip the tach off and back on."

take a datalog and we could confirm that. still need to tune the close loop idle settings if you want good idle.

I have never touched that program yet. I'd need a total noob walk-through.

Here's a dyno chart. Is anything wrong with it? A boost leak or anything?
http://i52.tinypic.com/2i1cvwi.jpg

Your boost is creeping up for sure as your RPMs increase. I don't personally think thats a bad thing though if it's not knocking, just makes it more fun. I'm not the one to talk to on tuning though, I'm terrible with MS beyond soldering it together.