DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

BOV doesn't BO.

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Old 09-29-2008, 08:35 AM
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Default BOV doesn't BO.

I have an ebay RFL, and it's sticking. Is there a specific kind of oil I should use on it, or does it need to break it or something? It worked fine for about a week but now it sticks pretty badly.

If the ebay one is junk, are there any better ones that use the same flange or will I need to get a new flange welded in?
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:18 AM
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Open it up, clean it out, and lube it. I usually use a little motor oil. You may need to adjust spring tension. The spring that came in mine was so long, the piston was unable to move. I cut about half the coils off, first one coil at a time, then a half coil at a time, until it finally would vent. But then it wouldn't seal at idle so I bought a second, long but weak spring from the hardware store. One spring sits inside the other. Valve works fine for several months, then needs to be opened and lubed again.
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:53 AM
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just buy a real bov, i have the hks ssq, but im a ricer lol

u can go with the turbosmart series,

i had one of those and its nice, and they come in stealth models
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Old 09-29-2008, 10:30 AM
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no point in paying out the *** if Ben practically has a write-up for ebay ones to work
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Old 09-29-2008, 11:19 AM
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i have an ebay piston type and i could never get it to work right. I went as far as honing the bore out, but never changed the springs.
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Old 09-29-2008, 11:25 AM
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I have an ebay piston type BOV and it has been working fine for months on a daily driver. Which one did you get?
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Old 09-29-2008, 11:31 AM
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I have the HKS SSQ also. Mine is about 8 years old and it works great. Never needs any attenion.
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Old 09-29-2008, 12:51 PM
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I have the ebay RFL, looks just like the Turbo XS RFL. It came with two springs inside, a long one and a short one. Also came with 3 pretty thick washers inside as shims. I took out the shorter spring but left all of the spacers and the long spring. What bugs me is that it worked great for a few days, then slowly started working less and less, and now it doesn't blow off at all. I just get this obnoxious turkey-sound.

Gobble Gobble.
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Old 09-29-2008, 05:33 PM
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my friend has his hks on his car for 2 years, then sold it to me for pennies, and its been working on mine great, mind u im maf and vta
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Old 09-29-2008, 06:14 PM
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on my wrx, my forge bov required graphite lubricant for it to work properly.
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Old 09-29-2008, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jobambo
on my wrx, my forge bov required graphite lubricant for it to work properly.
Oh, there's an idea. Sounds like there isn't much that works on the same little nipple, so I'll try every kind of lube out there before I give up and buy a new style.
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:16 PM
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I'll ask the obvious question. No offense but are you sure it is connected correctly?
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
I'll ask the obvious question. No offense but are you sure it is connected correctly?
I'm pretty sure, yeah. I've got it attached to the charge piping about 18" in front of the throttle body, and I've got the little fitting on top T'd off the same tube as my MS. There aren't any other connections on it, so it should be pretty straight forward.
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Old 09-29-2008, 11:06 PM
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I use brake caliper grease on my Forge Motorsport Bov.
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Old 09-29-2008, 11:11 PM
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Ky.
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Old 09-29-2008, 11:30 PM
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I love my HKS ssqv. Got it used and it works great.

I like the KY idea though!
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Old 09-30-2008, 11:04 AM
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Graphite lubricant is the best thing to use but you can also use white lithium in a pinch. Standard motor oil wont last long and wd40 is even worse.
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Old 09-30-2008, 01:15 PM
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The proper lube to use on a piston type BOV is sewing machine oil or hydraulic fluid.
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Old 09-30-2008, 05:50 PM
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I've had a fake Greddy Type-S on my MS6 for 10,000 miles. Works perfect.
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Old 10-02-2008, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by elesjuan
I've had a fake Greddy Type-S on my MS6 for 10,000 miles. Works perfect.
+1.

Well, except the MS6 part.

But I just really prefer the diaphragm design over the piston design in general. It lacks the potential for failure due to contamination or lubrication failure that plagues many piston-type valves. Keeping the sealing part separate from the flowing part makes a lot of sense from a design-reliability standpoint.
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