Why is an nb front subframe considered “at a minimum?” Yah the suspension geometry changed slightly for camber curves but to say you need it at a minimum is a bit silly. I would agree that nb drivetrain and brakes should be swapped in. Not sure I agree on an nb fuel tank. I would have to double check but nb fuel tank is not a direct fit for na. Na8 fuel tank is only .8 of a gallon larger in size. I still don’t see a larger fuel tank as a need for a proper build. But a larger sized tank would be a nice to have.

Let’s not forget the 1.6 was designed to be turbocharged :)

If you get a chance drive a 90-93 miata hard the bump steer is almost dangerous it is so bad. I have a 90 so this isnt even me doing guess work its first hand experience. If you only plan to street the car then it will be fine but on the track i consider it a necessary change.

I also drive an na6. Wasn't the bump steer corrected with the 93le tie rods?
Edit: Granted the only miata I have driven hard that was lowered would be my 92. I've driven an nb2 quite a bit but that is still at stock ride height with stock suspension so I don't feel it is a fair comparison.

edit2: now that I think about it some more. I don’t think it’s the subframe change that fixed the bumpsteer issue but the front spindle change that corrected the geometry for bumpsteer.

If you aren't tracking a car, most people are likely to notice the NA vs. NB nuances. A cheap way to improve the NA bump steer is a set of LE/R Package outer tie rod ends and steering rack spacers. Slightly cheaper and much easier than swapping to the NB front subframe. Here are my thoughts. Do what you want. Is the 1.6L the best engine for the platform? No, but you already own it. If you're on a budget, keep it, refresh it, get a MKTurbo or Kraken kit, and have fun!

Sounds like you have/had something wrong with your car.

Miata.net is that way.

I mean it did have 28 year old rubber control arm bushings until this winter also.....

That sounds a more likely culprit for "dangerous." ;)

Yeah, that doesn't sound like bump steer. That sounds like dangerous play in a bushing or joint and warrants inspection.

They all got replaced this winter. I was just in denial i guess. Ill remove myself from this situation :inout: Sorry guys

You won't find much love the 1.6L on here. I think you can keep the engine pretty much stock and just do rods with great success if you really want to run some trans breaking power. As for costs, it will all depend on quality of parts and your abilities. I'v got a video when I built mine doing things as affordably as possibly. A DIY coolant reroute, used turbo/manifold, and a build-it-yourself DIYPNP2. If I could do it over again I would go MS3 and a cast manifold. Tube manifold was fine for a street/autocross car but if you wanna do some track time a cast manifold is about as reliable as it gets.
I was able to turbo my car for ~$2200, and that was ~4 years ago. Multiple track days, mountain runs, competitive local autocross. Stock 1.6L.

Has OP indicated whether this will be a track car or a street car?

thank you for this I appreciate it. I probably will just do rods leave pistons oem. And yeah really not much love for the 1.6 on here lol

street, maybe track once a year. Could I get away with upgraded pads with 200-250whp?

1.8 rotors are about $20-25 a piece. Pads are still pads. You seem to be buying them regardless. The only additional cost would be 1.8 caliper brackets which are about $60-70 on eBay. At the very least upgrade to 1.8 brakes.

Has anyone done 4 piston willwoods in the front and stock in the rear ? Since front brakes always do the most work ?

I would start with pads and some ducting. If your first annual visit to the track produces sphincter pucker, upgrade. I don't think you're gonna notice much difference on the street.

That sounds wild, fam. I don't think anyone has ever done that.

Total cost 1.6L
 

Here is a spreadsheet I made with the prices of ALL of the components that i have or will buy fpr my project excluding tools and consumables. It is in swedish but with google translate youll figure it out. There are also links to all the websites ive used to buy items.

Green = purchased

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...t?usp=drivesdk

If you have any questions regarding the spreadsheet just ask. The total is in SEK