Cant clock this pos t25 *rant*
 

I'm trying to clock this damn sr20 t25 but with no luck. I loosened the 4 bolts that are connected to the exhaust side. This is the part where it spins correct? When I had my srt and put in the 50 trim it just spun around in the center but no luck with this one. Do I just need to hit it with something? Sob oiuwe9tweorjwrdfglkjg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

First thing, soak it in pbblaster for a week.

Then you got couple options.
1. Beat with hammer
2. Stick into Freezer over night, Heat turbine housing with torch, then beat with hammer.
3. I get scared to beat with hammer, so I use the bolt jack method. I sandwich a 2x4 and a steel plate in between the compressor and turbine housing, and unscrew the bolts against the metal plate.

I used a "deadblow rubber mallet"

So soak them in pb blaster. And hit the exhaust housing until it rotates?

warm it up n give it a good crack wiv a rubber mallet

I used a long pipe in the compressor outlet to spin it.
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Brake fluid makes a damn good penetrating oil too. So is Kroil, but it's known to cause cancer in Cali. So make sure you drive outside that state if you live there...

+1 to freezing it and then heating the part that's stuck. Thermal expansion FTW.

I had the same problem on my SR20 turbo. Take the bolts out of the hold down clamps on the turbine outlet. Take a torch with a fine tip, and apply heat to the area where the CHRA and the turbine fit together. Don't heat just one area, or heat it till it glows red, heat the whole mating flange evenly (circular). I did this, and mine actually fell out of the housing with no need to beat on it. Once this all cools, take sandpaper and clean up the mating surfaces. Then reassemble and clock it to your needs. Game Over.

So I actually remove the bolts from the housing and take off the bronze clip?

yes or no on that?

4 bolts behind the housing.. or c clamp the inside

On the exhaust side of a SR20 turbo there should be 4 bolts, the compressor should be held to the CHRA with a big snap ring. So Yes, take the bolts out and remove the clip.

Roger will attempt this momentarily

FYI, that snap ring on the compressor can be a BITCH to remove, but I didn't have any issues moving that side, cause the CHRA is steel and the compressor is aluminum. The turbine outlet is what seemed to be fused together and required me to heat it.

http://www.boostedmiata.com/random/useful.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t10996/

all it says in the rebuilding a t25 post is "remove the 4 bolts and c-clip"
The first thing I did was loosen the 4 bolts but no luck. I can't get the bolts out because they are blocked by the oil/water drain portions in the middle.

The oil/water drain portion is know as the CHRA, Central Housing Rotating Assembly? How far out can you turn the bolts before they hit the CHRA? Does it at least loosen the clamp? If it does and you can kinda slide the clamp up the bolts, heat behind the clamp, and then tap the turbine outlet with a soft mallet so it slides off the CHRA, and then take the bolts out some more. Keep doing this, until the bolts are completely out, and then it should seperate with out a hassle. Try not to apply any heat to the bolt threads, and they could snap. Wait...if you're just clocking the turbo, by loosening the bolts, the clamps should come loose, and then you can heat it and rotate it. No need to pull it completely apart.

Yeah, all I need to do is rotate the exhaust housing and my turbo will be "clocked" for my application. The oil drain and the inlet will both be perfect if I can just spin the exhaust housing around.

You say the bolts hit the CHRA when you try and remove them.

I used this to my advantage to remove the turbine housing. When you loosen the bolts, they hit the CHRA and press the housing off. Just keep loosening the bolts that contact the CHRA until the housing comes off then put it back on the way you want it. Keep in mind, as always, loosen the bolts evenly (one side, then the other...like with a flywheel). PB blaster will help a lot for sure, too.

I will try this thanks

T4, you're in a very common place right now.
OEM turbo's that have never been apart and have gone through thousands of heat cycles are a bitch to disassemble... or in your case, clock.

Everybody is giving you good advice, just be patient.
Remove the compressor housing before doing any of this and be very careful through the whole process not to damage any of the compressor blades. You'll need the aforementioned large retaining ring pliers... Harbor Freight or Northern Tool FTW!

Then, penetrating fluid of some kind at least overnight. PBBlaster or Liquid Wrench are the 2 most common ones. Then, IN THE FREEZER OVERNIGHT!!! Following morning, clamp the CHRA in a vice... probably need a couple small wood blocks... there are flat spots on the oil/water inlet/outlets depending on your particular Garret model.

Then, hit that bitch with a torch all the way around the turbine housing... keep torch flame away from CHRA as much as possible. YOU WILL DAMAGE THE CHRA IF YOU MAKE CONTACT WITH REGULAR METAL HAMMER!!! I have a small 3lb beater hammer, and I'm very careful to make precise contact on the heaviest parts of the turbine housing when smacking one of these off.

IIRC, you will 99% probably not be able to simply "clock" the CHRA if it's never been off the turbine housing. You can smack the flange all you want trying to get it to rotate, but when it finally budges, the thing will just pop off. When it finally pops, you'll have the room to remove the bolts that were being blocked by he fluid ports. Take the time to carefully inspect the inside of the turbine housing and the turbine blades.... post pics here if you think something doesn't look right.

When you've gotten everything lined up properly and are ready to tighten the 4 bolts again, be sure you tighten each bolt a little at a time, creating even distrubution of pressure. After each round of incremental tightening, smack the turbine housing with your hammer lightly to make sure things are fully seating.

Your only option for the bolts is an open-end wrench or crescent wrench... BE VERY FUCKING CAREFUL LIKE WHEN YOU TOUCHED YOUR FIRST BOOB when tightening the bolts so you don't round one off. If you round off one of the bolts, you're fucked bad because you can really only get the wrench on one facet at a time and you'll never be able to put enough pressure on the rounded side again to get it to turn far enough to engage the next facet.

Still can't get it off. I've tried heat, pb blaster, rubber mallet, pipe in the inlet...and still no turning...I'm running out of options here.

You're not running out of options, they're still all the same. Unless it was welded on there it will come off eventually. Just keep at it. Did you try to keep loosening the bolts into the CHRA until it presses the housing off like I suggested?

Yeah but what they did was start to grind into the side of the housing and mess up the bolts/chra. I have the turbo in the oven right now and I'm going to see if I can get it out if it's really hot. We will see I guess.

Put it in a shipping box and mail it to me. I will get that thing to move for you and only charge you $20. Otherwise try harder and listen to exactly what me and especially samnavy have wrote. Samnavy I think wrote the sticky on the turbo rebuild, which I followed and had much luck with. You said you were using a torch. Please don't even say a propane torch like used for soldering copper pipe. When I said I used a torch, I meant an acetylene torch like used for cutting / brazing.

I don't have a torch. I've been using my oven. I was able to get the housing to rotate just now but it was the intake housing not the exhaust so that didn't help me out at all. After beating it with a mallet I've gotten it to back out like 1mm.

I GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!! klskjdlfskj!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I just stuck it in the oven for 20mins at 400 degrees. Then with a combination of hitting it and turning the one bolt that hit the chra it finally came out!!! Thank jebus that's over with. Btw, it appears to be in tip top shape, no bent blades, no shaft play :-)

Congratulations with your dilema! Parts like these that have been through thousands of heat cycles are many times a real bitch to deal with. I'm glad you got it and best of luck with your setup.

BTW, I was sent an ad from Kano Labs (Kroil), they have something that they think is better, Silikroil, Kroil with Silicone added. They also have a buy 1 get 2 deal going on.

As for Kroil, I haven't used anything better. Should be interesting to see the Silikroil work.

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