I'm trying to clock this damn sr20 t25 but with no luck. I loosened the 4 bolts that are connected to the exhaust side. This is the part where it spins correct? When I had my srt and put in the 50 trim it just spun around in the center but no luck with this one. Do I just need to hit it with something? Sob oiuwe9tweorjwrdfglkjg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

First thing, soak it in pbblaster for a week.

Then you got couple options.
1. Beat with hammer
2. Stick into Freezer over night, Heat turbine housing with torch, then beat with hammer.
3. I get scared to beat with hammer, so I use the bolt jack method. I sandwich a 2x4 and a steel plate in between the compressor and turbine housing, and unscrew the bolts against the metal plate.

 

I used a "deadblow rubber mallet"

 

So soak them in pb blaster. And hit the exhaust housing until it rotates?

 

warm it up n give it a good crack wiv a rubber mallet

 

I used a long pipe in the compressor outlet to spin it.
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Brake fluid makes a damn good penetrating oil too. So is Kroil, but it's known to cause cancer in Cali. So make sure you drive outside that state if you live there...

+1 to freezing it and then heating the part that's stuck. Thermal expansion FTW.

 

I had the same problem on my SR20 turbo. Take the bolts out of the hold down clamps on the turbine outlet. Take a torch with a fine tip, and apply heat to the area where the CHRA and the turbine fit together. Don't heat just one area, or heat it till it glows red, heat the whole mating flange evenly (circular). I did this, and mine actually fell out of the housing with no need to beat on it. Once this all cools, take sandpaper and clean up the mating surfaces. Then reassemble and clock it to your needs. Game Over.

 

So I actually remove the bolts from the housing and take off the bronze clip?

 

yes or no on that?

 

4 bolts behind the housing.. or c clamp the inside

 

On the exhaust side of a SR20 turbo there should be 4 bolts, the compressor should be held to the CHRA with a big snap ring. So Yes, take the bolts out and remove the clip.

 

Roger will attempt this momentarily

 

FYI, that snap ring on the compressor can be a BITCH to remove, but I didn't have any issues moving that side, cause the CHRA is steel and the compressor is aluminum. The turbine outlet is what seemed to be fused together and required me to heat it.

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t10996/

 

all it says in the rebuilding a t25 post is "remove the 4 bolts and c-clip"
The first thing I did was loosen the 4 bolts but no luck. I can't get the bolts out because they are blocked by the oil/water drain portions in the middle.

 

The oil/water drain portion is know as the CHRA, Central Housing Rotating Assembly? How far out can you turn the bolts before they hit the CHRA? Does it at least loosen the clamp? If it does and you can kinda slide the clamp up the bolts, heat behind the clamp, and then tap the turbine outlet with a soft mallet so it slides off the CHRA, and then take the bolts out some more. Keep doing this, until the bolts are completely out, and then it should seperate with out a hassle. Try not to apply any heat to the bolt threads, and they could snap. Wait...if you're just clocking the turbo, by loosening the bolts, the clamps should come loose, and then you can heat it and rotate it. No need to pull it completely apart.

 

Yeah, all I need to do is rotate the exhaust housing and my turbo will be "clocked" for my application. The oil drain and the inlet will both be perfect if I can just spin the exhaust housing around.

 

You say the bolts hit the CHRA when you try and remove them.

I used this to my advantage to remove the turbine housing. When you loosen the bolts, they hit the CHRA and press the housing off. Just keep loosening the bolts that contact the CHRA until the housing comes off then put it back on the way you want it. Keep in mind, as always, loosen the bolts evenly (one side, then the other...like with a flywheel). PB blaster will help a lot for sure, too.

 

I will try this thanks