Cheap wideband gauge?
 

Ive herd of using a volt meter.. but what would I set the output on the lc-1 to? Also, where would I get the meter/gauge from? I just want something cheap that I can read my A/F with.

panel voltmeters are easy to find and cheap. grab one of the lc1's analog outs and set it to 1V @ 10:1 and 2V @ 20:1 . The meter will be off by a factor of 10, IE 12:1 will show up as 1.20 and 14.7:1 will show up as 1.47, but some meters will have the ability to move the decimal around to compensate. If not, you'll get used to it easily enough.

and what about a cheap gauge?

So this would be really nice and work alright?

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-1-LCD-DIGITA...QQcmdZViewItem

I have this one since I went with a Defi. PM me if you're interested. $30 shipped.

http://patrickschmidt.baked.net/albu...le/FS1_005.jpg

Might be a misprint, but those specs say that the meter's range ends at .199V. Not good. I like THIS one better, as it has an acceptable range and the decimal point is movable. Just make sure you ask for the 12V model so you don't have to add a power regulator to the power supply.

I pmed him about it. The one you liked is nice but would take 12 days to get here! Ill see what the guy says.

I was kinda hoping for a digital readout.

Cant you just use a narrowband gauge on a wideband sensor for a cheap setup?

I didnt even know Narrowbands had gauges.

If I could get a video out from the MS, I wouldnt need any gauges.

yeah, but not for as cheap as a panel meter

That's what is in the picture that pschmidt posted. They're just simple 0-1v voltmeters, but I think that having that kind bargraph-type display would be more useful than a numeric readout insomuch as that it will be easier to read at a glance. Even on my AEM WBO2 display, the numeric portion of the gauge often changes too rapidly to be readable, but the bargraph portion is easy to read.

You'd just need to bench-test the gauge to determine the proper calibration for your WBO2 output.

Examples: http://www.egauges.com/vdo_mult3.asp...ies=Sport_Comp
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku


A better, though pricier option: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...9&cat=0&page=1

I noticed that on the AEM that came in the miata I parted out. The XD-16 from Innovate definitely is superior in readability. You can also set the colors on all the led bezel markers. The default setting is a really nice, gradual fade, but I inserted white at my desired cruising afr (lean of stoich) and green at my on boost desired afr. That way I don't even have to really look at the gauge to make sure everything's cool.

The XD-16 really is hard to beat. You can get one from DIYAUTOTUNE (board-supporter)

Siegel

But with the bar graph style gauge you cant tell what the AFR is exactly, can you? At least with the numbers there you know what you are at exactly.

http://www.prosportgauges.com/digital.php

What about the prosport digital AFR, it has both graph and numbers. Price is right too.

Well I got this.. Ill try it out and see how it works!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWN:IT&ih=015

I'm pretty sure that while you can use simple voltmeter to display the output of a narrowband O2 Sensor, the same is not possible with a wideband sensor. With the wideband, you need to have circuitry that is a bit more complex for the wideband sensor.

You can check out some of the required circuitry here - http://wbo2.com/2a0/schem.htm

If you already have a wideband system, then it is sometimes possible to use the simulated narrowband output from that system, into a simple voltmeter.

Craig

Same thing, this should've worked well for you.
http://www.web-tronics.com/led5vcogrpam.html

Uh newb you can use a voltmeter on a lc1 or a 0-5 volt linear wb02 so long as you have the paremeters set up right and or know that 0=10-1 and 5=20-1 very simple. But a controller is still needed to output the signal correctly and calibrate the signal.

From what I've read, that only works with a narrowband sensor. The do have a wideband gauge in the works from what I have heard and I am holding out for that.

I currently display my AFR through a Apexi turbo timer that has a O2 input. I have my LC1 set to put a 1-0v signal and you can configure the Apexi to accept that. It is not 100% accurate, but within .2-.3 AFR which is better than nothing