Clocking turbo
Hey guys,
I'm trying to clock the SR20 T28 I just picked up. What is the best method to separate the turbine housing from the centre section? Is it safe to hit it with a hammer, or is it too fragile? |
I hit mine with a rubber deadblow. A lot of people have just shoved a broom handle in the compressor side, put the flange of the turbo in a vice, and then broken the seal by pulling on the handle.
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I find that often a few sharp raps on the turbine housing itself with a rubber mallet or even a plain hammer from the side will do the trick. You dont need much actual force, just a sharp impact. Rather than directly trying to pull the sections apart, hitting it from the side applies more force to one specific point. Sort of like with a ball joint and a ball-peen hammer.
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I've been trying for the last hour or so. No luck!
I let the joint soak with Liquid Wrench and still can't get it apart. Do I have to resort to the torch? |
Bigger hammer.
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BFH!
dont be a puss.... |
The cast iron won't fracture?
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You need a torch.
Mine didn't want to budge. About a minute with a torch and the fucker slid off like butter |
Thanks, I'll give it a try tomorrow. Propane is enough I'm assuming?
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Should do the trick.
I got one of these little guys http://www.nakka-rocketry.net/ablative/ul100.jpg Heat it up evenly around the spot that's stuck onto the center housing in slow fluid movements, after its damn hot just tap it with something not too strong, like a block of wood or something similar. I've done this to different turbo's a few times now and each time it worked like a charm |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 586220)
Should do the trick.
I got one of these little guys http://www.nakka-rocketry.net/ablative/ul100.jpg Heat it up evenly around the spot that's stuck onto the center housing in slow fluid movements, after its damn hot just tap it with something not too strong, like a block of wood or something similar. I've done this to different turbo's a few times now and each time it worked like a charm Those torches dont heat worth shit. I upgraded to this http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com...75&h=157&page= |
:giggle: you should've searched I know personally there was like 5 threads when I needed that info.... but to ease your searching I used alot of PB blaster and three days of periodic beatings with a rubber mallet.....
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Originally Posted by SKMetalworks
(Post 586226)
Those torches dont heat worth shit. I upgraded to this
http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com...75&h=157&page= |
It's a T28. I searched, couldn't find what I need, started a thread now there is more info. End.
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what's your ar size?
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It's an S14 BB T28. 0.60 A/R. Quite a bit bigger compressor than my current T25. I just rebuilt my T25 and it's still smoking. Not sure if my bearing housing is damaged, so I decided to move on to another one. I'll post pics of them side by side later. Pretty sure Brain has a couple of these pics up around here.
Here is some further info. Talk about searcing... :bowrofl:...j/k http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/sr...rbo-specs.html |
doh i forgot about those ones shit my neighbor has one sitting in his 240 lol
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Blows me away how difficult this can be with someturbos. Vband couplers from CHRA to turbine housing FTW, like on the 16Gs.
Or is that how it is on the T25/T28s? |
I giant iron bar coated with duct tape worked for me.
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Yesterday I clocked my ebay turbo by loosening 4 bolts for each side and just turned it by hand. Had it done in less than 2.5 mins. :)
My Garrett however I had to heat up and bang on it with a rubber mallet. After about a half dozen blows it finally was where I needed it. |
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