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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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Default Clocking turbo

Hey guys,

I'm trying to clock the SR20 T28 I just picked up. What is the best method to separate the turbine housing from the centre section? Is it safe to hit it with a hammer, or is it too fragile?
Old Jun 9, 2010 | 09:18 PM
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I hit mine with a rubber deadblow. A lot of people have just shoved a broom handle in the compressor side, put the flange of the turbo in a vice, and then broken the seal by pulling on the handle.
Old Jun 9, 2010 | 10:07 PM
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I find that often a few sharp raps on the turbine housing itself with a rubber mallet or even a plain hammer from the side will do the trick. You dont need much actual force, just a sharp impact. Rather than directly trying to pull the sections apart, hitting it from the side applies more force to one specific point. Sort of like with a ball joint and a ball-peen hammer.
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:26 AM
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I've been trying for the last hour or so. No luck!

I let the joint soak with Liquid Wrench and still can't get it apart. Do I have to resort to the torch?
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:29 AM
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Bigger hammer.
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:33 AM
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BFH!

dont be a puss....
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:41 AM
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The cast iron won't fracture?
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:42 AM
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You need a torch.

Mine didn't want to budge. About a minute with a torch and the ****** slid off like butter
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:48 AM
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Thanks, I'll give it a try tomorrow. Propane is enough I'm assuming?
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 12:50 AM
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Should do the trick.
I got one of these little guys



Heat it up evenly around the spot that's stuck onto the center housing in slow fluid movements, after its damn hot just tap it with something not too strong, like a block of wood or something similar. I've done this to different turbo's a few times now and each time it worked like a charm
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
Should do the trick.
I got one of these little guys



Heat it up evenly around the spot that's stuck onto the center housing in slow fluid movements, after its damn hot just tap it with something not too strong, like a block of wood or something similar. I've done this to different turbo's a few times now and each time it worked like a charm

Those torches dont heat worth ****. I upgraded to this

Old Jun 10, 2010 | 01:02 AM
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you should've searched I know personally there was like 5 threads when I needed that info.... but to ease your searching I used alot of PB blaster and three days of periodic beatings with a rubber mallet.....

Last edited by p51hellfire; Jun 10, 2010 at 02:23 AM.
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by SKMetalworks
Those torches dont heat worth ****. I upgraded to this

y0r t0rch iz kewler
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 01:38 AM
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It's a T28. I searched, couldn't find what I need, started a thread now there is more info. End.
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 01:47 AM
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what's your ar size?

Last edited by p51hellfire; Jun 10, 2010 at 02:24 AM.
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 02:10 AM
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It's an S14 BB T28. 0.60 A/R. Quite a bit bigger compressor than my current T25. I just rebuilt my T25 and it's still smoking. Not sure if my bearing housing is damaged, so I decided to move on to another one. I'll post pics of them side by side later. Pretty sure Brain has a couple of these pics up around here.

Here is some further info. Talk about searcing... ...j/k
http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/sr...rbo-specs.html
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 02:17 AM
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doh i forgot about those ones **** my neighbor has one sitting in his 240 lol
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 07:44 PM
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Blows me away how difficult this can be with someturbos. Vband couplers from CHRA to turbine housing FTW, like on the 16Gs.

Or is that how it is on the T25/T28s?
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 07:48 PM
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I giant iron bar coated with duct tape worked for me.
Old Jun 10, 2010 | 08:42 PM
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Yesterday I clocked my ebay turbo by loosening 4 bolts for each side and just turned it by hand. Had it done in less than 2.5 mins.

My Garrett however I had to heat up and bang on it with a rubber mallet. After about a half dozen blows it finally was where I needed it.
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