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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Coolant temp sensor moved to front of block

Old Jun 20, 2010 | 09:46 PM
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Default Coolant temp sensor moved to front of block

Is there any signifigant downside to moving the coolant temp sensor from the back housing on a 1.6 to a block off plate on the front of the engine.

This would be with a coolant route. I`m thinking it would be basically the same thing as stock. When the car is stock, there is little flow to the back of the head, where the sensor is. With a coolant re-route, now there will be less flow to the front of the head (but not as `bad` as the rear, stock).

....


If I can move it to the front, My coolant re-route will be basically free. Going to use the rubber nub blocked off port for the heater core feed (yes, I know a bit small... but whatever...) and the stock 1.6 front housing on the back pointing cold side.

I won`t have a thermosensor because I have a MS which uses the ECU to control the fans.
Old Jun 20, 2010 | 09:49 PM
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I don't see any problems with that.
Many of the diy reroutes out there relocated it as well
Old Jun 20, 2010 | 09:53 PM
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Neato...


Now, what`s your thought on using the port that`s on the 1.6 head as the heater core feed..

I just got a 1000kms worked over head that I am scared to drill into to make another port.
Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:05 PM
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The biggest problem I can see is that your sensor will be measuring cooler water than that flowing out the back of the head. You'll have to compensate with the ECU all the way down the line, assuming of course you're using a programmable ECU. Why do you want to move it?
Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by falcon
Neato...


Now, what`s your thought on using the port that`s on the 1.6 head as the heater core feed..

I just got a 1000kms worked over head that I am scared to drill into to make another port.
if you're going to move the sensor to the front neck you need to have flow through there.
otherwise your temp readings will be all sorts of fucked up.

To be honest I don't think this is a good idea. Just use a spacer like just about everyone else. you can get one for cheap and retain everything just like we did. Really isn't that hard at all.

I tried to reinvent the wheel before I did my re-route too. Ran my ideas by some of the folks here and got quickly bitch slapped for trying to be Hyper.

There's a reason just about everyone here does everything very similar around here
Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:38 PM
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What`s the cheapest spacer... cause ******* $89 for a piece of round metal from BEGI is pure theft.
Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:58 PM
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**** that bullshit.
they are smoking crack.

Search. There are at least 5 threads with links to the part number. I think from Moss. something like 16-20 bux
Old Jun 20, 2010 | 11:18 PM
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It's a bit pricey, but someone has to take the time to machine it and they don't work for free. Buy the metal locally and have someone machine it.
Old Jun 20, 2010 | 11:20 PM
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Lol... I know how much it costs to machine something like that.

I bought the $15 moss one.

I`ll drill and tap it myself.
Old Jun 20, 2010 | 11:45 PM
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If you can, then by all means do it. Wish I had the tools and space.
Old Jun 21, 2010 | 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by falcon
What`s the cheapest spacer... cause ******* $89 for a piece of round metal from BEGI is pure theft.


Tapping the moss spacer myself like you, won't really need a machine shop because I'm not using a t-stat. Actually I'm going to see about a block off plate today so I will need a shop.

What are you doing about the front of the motor now?
Old Jun 21, 2010 | 01:15 PM
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Front of the motor will just get a freeze plug and BOP on top just for extra measure.

I`m going to just drill and tap the spacer, and run an inline thermostat from SummitRacing.
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