COP Thread
#102
lol, well I'm not really sure my diagram helps much.
I was just thinking about it and if I were to cut where I was thinking of cutting, I'd then be severing ANY connection the plugs have to the ECU.
I mean if I cut the White wire(runs to 2 & 3) before the igniter, I'm cutting into the wire that LEAVES from the igniter box to the coils. The wire I want for the triggers would, using my diagram, be 2, 5, or 7 (BRN-YEL, BLK-WHT, or BRN). But the only way I'd be able to figure it out as of now would be trial and error. And that kinda stuff kinda scares me when working with car electronics.
EDIT: Sharky, please do keep us updated with any information on the COP setup for a 1.6, then we can make a nice How-To post!
I was just thinking about it and if I were to cut where I was thinking of cutting, I'd then be severing ANY connection the plugs have to the ECU.
I mean if I cut the White wire(runs to 2 & 3) before the igniter, I'm cutting into the wire that LEAVES from the igniter box to the coils. The wire I want for the triggers would, using my diagram, be 2, 5, or 7 (BRN-YEL, BLK-WHT, or BRN). But the only way I'd be able to figure it out as of now would be trial and error. And that kinda stuff kinda scares me when working with car electronics.
EDIT: Sharky, please do keep us updated with any information on the COP setup for a 1.6, then we can make a nice How-To post!
#103
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Well since the DSM coils are so similar I, think i will hunt over on some of the old DSM board about cop. I mean come the igniter has Mitsubishi stamped on it. lol
Off to do more research...
Off to do more research...
#104
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well so far bad news. ever person running COP on a DSM are running them with an external ignition box, such as MSD DIS-2. I'll keep looking but most of the DSM guys are not switching over until they are running full standalone.
Now Busher racing makes a COP system for the DSM, but I don't know if they would be will to tell how its all wired up.
Now Busher racing makes a COP system for the DSM, but I don't know if they would be will to tell how its all wired up.
#105
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Hey just found this and figured some people would like to see these plates.
http://erichmoraga.com/Miata/
http://erichmoraga.com/Miata/
#106
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I have the power....... well not really but I have more knowledge and some really bad photos/diagrams...lol
Ok so here is what I have figured out in the last hour-ish
First the miata 1.6L shares the ignition system similar to the 91-94 DSM, not the 90. The 90 model has 4 pins connector on the coil and the 4 pin is for a tach out put. I am not sure if there is a difference in a 91-94 model vs the 95-99.
The system and step-up I found is for running wasted spark. It seems as if there is no way to run seq without a MSD DIS-2 or similar. Just do to the fact of how you have to wire it in a bridge system(correct me if I am wrong),
The power is sent to the 1st and 2nd coil then the grounds go to 3rd and 4th and loop back.
From what everything looks like, it seem the power it constant but the ground is where the switch is. It seem half backwards to have constant power to the coils and have the ecu turn the ground on and off based on what plugs need to fire.
This would be easy to test, but I don't have a tester. Test the red wire and see if it have constant power at idle. Then test the white or black wire and see the power level constant jumps up and down.
First bad diagram
Second Bad diagram
If anyone wants to give me the parts I am willing to use my daily driving miata as tester... lol
Hope this helps honeydesean
Ok so here is what I have figured out in the last hour-ish
First the miata 1.6L shares the ignition system similar to the 91-94 DSM, not the 90. The 90 model has 4 pins connector on the coil and the 4 pin is for a tach out put. I am not sure if there is a difference in a 91-94 model vs the 95-99.
The system and step-up I found is for running wasted spark. It seems as if there is no way to run seq without a MSD DIS-2 or similar. Just do to the fact of how you have to wire it in a bridge system(correct me if I am wrong),
The power is sent to the 1st and 2nd coil then the grounds go to 3rd and 4th and loop back.
From what everything looks like, it seem the power it constant but the ground is where the switch is. It seem half backwards to have constant power to the coils and have the ecu turn the ground on and off based on what plugs need to fire.
This would be easy to test, but I don't have a tester. Test the red wire and see if it have constant power at idle. Then test the white or black wire and see the power level constant jumps up and down.
First bad diagram
Second Bad diagram
If anyone wants to give me the parts I am willing to use my daily driving miata as tester... lol
Hope this helps honeydesean
#107
What parts? The Toyota COPs have ignitors built in them. They are not just coils. You dont need another ignitor. In the DSM picture that posted, The coils are wired in series. If there 12v coils that means there only getting 6v each.
For Toyota coils you ONLY need 12v, ground, and the two trigger outputs from the ecu before it goes to the Miata ignitor (1.6l). If you have the 1.8l the ignitors are built into the oem coils already. Then tie the tach leads together and connect to the Miata's tach lead. -done-
For Toyota coils you ONLY need 12v, ground, and the two trigger outputs from the ecu before it goes to the Miata ignitor (1.6l). If you have the 1.8l the ignitors are built into the oem coils already. Then tie the tach leads together and connect to the Miata's tach lead. -done-
#108
lol, well I'm not really sure my diagram helps much.
I was just thinking about it and if I were to cut where I was thinking of cutting, I'd then be severing ANY connection the plugs have to the ECU.
I mean if I cut the White wire(runs to 2 & 3) before the igniter, I'm cutting into the wire that LEAVES from the igniter box to the coils. The wire I want for the triggers would, using my diagram, be 2, 5, or 7 (BRN-YEL, BLK-WHT, or BRN). But the only way I'd be able to figure it out as of now would be trial and error. And that kinda stuff kinda scares me when working with car electronics.
EDIT: Sharky, please do keep us updated with any information on the COP setup for a 1.6, then we can make a nice How-To post!
I was just thinking about it and if I were to cut where I was thinking of cutting, I'd then be severing ANY connection the plugs have to the ECU.
I mean if I cut the White wire(runs to 2 & 3) before the igniter, I'm cutting into the wire that LEAVES from the igniter box to the coils. The wire I want for the triggers would, using my diagram, be 2, 5, or 7 (BRN-YEL, BLK-WHT, or BRN). But the only way I'd be able to figure it out as of now would be trial and error. And that kinda stuff kinda scares me when working with car electronics.
EDIT: Sharky, please do keep us updated with any information on the COP setup for a 1.6, then we can make a nice How-To post!
#109
Hey just found this and figured some people would like to see these plates.
http://erichmoraga.com/Miata/
http://erichmoraga.com/Miata/
#111
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Dude... for the last time. I live in Antioch and it would help this entire thread if you could bring your car by and I could see the 1.6l ignition setup and make a "once and for all wiring diagram" to post here. All I have to work on is the 1.8L. Alot of you have 1.6L and it can be done just like the 1.8L but you ELIMINATE the Miata ignitor. That's right... cut that ***** out of the car and throw it in the trash.
Yea I was unable to figure out how to eliminate the ignitor, if you can figure that out that would be a god send.
honeydesean get your *** over to Lazzer for good of all of us or we're going to beat you like a red headed step-child with SPORKS!!!!
#112
would these work??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...QQcmdZViewItem
And I need a set as well. my car has to be back on th road by the end of july and i need coils!! lmk
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...QQcmdZViewItem
And I need a set as well. my car has to be back on th road by the end of july and i need coils!! lmk
#113
would these work??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...QQcmdZViewItem
And I need a set as well. my car has to be back on th road by the end of july and i need coils!! lmk
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...QQcmdZViewItem
And I need a set as well. my car has to be back on th road by the end of july and i need coils!! lmk
#114
would these work??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...QQcmdZViewItem
And I need a set as well. my car has to be back on th road by the end of july and i need coils!! lmk
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...QQcmdZViewItem
And I need a set as well. my car has to be back on th road by the end of july and i need coils!! lmk
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-...spagenameZWD1V <---set of 4 for $50
#117
He hasn't actually installed the set on his car yet. All we did today was verify the ECU would trigger a Toyota coil with built in ignitor and verify the pinout/functions of the 1.6L wiring harness at the oem ignitor. I don't doubt it will work. If you want to wait a week or so Sean should have his coils by then. If any problems come up I'm sure I'll hear about it. Lets hope not.
#118
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He hasn't actually installed the set on his car yet. All we did today was verify the ECU would trigger a Toyota coil with built in ignitor and verify the pinout/functions of the 1.6L wiring harness at the oem ignitor. I don't doubt it will work. If you want to wait a week or so Sean should have his coils by then. If any problems come up I'm sure I'll hear about it. Lets hope not.
#120
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Lazzer, are you sure that you need to connect the tach out of all 4 cops? I would have thought that you need just one output from each PAIR of cops (one paired output to black/white & the other to yellow/blue) since it's wasted spark...