I don't feel qualified to start the thread, but why not an "Miataturbo official LS coil thread" in addition to the COP thread?

Good idea Stot, but mine only has one option in Overboost Protection and it is PSI, which is set at 15.

Does this log help? I cannot go drive the car right now but at idle there is a random hickup and the idle shoots up to 1900.

Why don't you defeat over boost etc and try driving the car ?

The COPS should not have anything to do with what you are experiencing.

Can't disable overboost protection so I just cranked it to 20psi, didn't help though.

Made a quick test run log... Let me know if yall find any errors.
Thanks again guys for taking time to help.

Why are your boost targets 70kpa...thats vacuum.

Because I don't have an E boost controller.

I connected the Megasquirt MAP sensor to a vac pump. -10psi and 34kPa showing on the Megasquirt is actually -15psi on the vac gauge.
Engine off, the Megasquirt shows 64kPa and -.9psi. WTF is going on here?
I tried switching settings between 115kPa, 250kPa and 400kPa and the gauges didn't change. How do I calibrate the MAP sensor? I couldn't find a setting for it.

I got a capacitor from RadioShack and installed on the power wires to the COPs but didn't help.

Made another test run data log. Ignore the idle change in the "idle cut" log and skip to the end. This is where it had that weird idle hickup. Wondering if they are related.
Not to throw more confusion in the mix but I may have heard a click under the dash when the idle hickup occurred...

Hey guys and gals

I just made this wonderful paint drawing of how to wire up coils that are dumb (ignitorless) such as the denso pencils you get in the fab9 kit and such. I got my coils from a junkyard off a gsxr 1000 and the 4 Channel driver is a bosch piece from a 1.8t audi a4, part no: Bosch 0 227 100 211.

this is the wiring for a 90-93 1.6 car, and i showed the igniter and coil plugs so you can choose where you wire from. I am doing mine to be completely reversible, using a crap coil to get the plugs for easy installation.

hope you like :D

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426711281


FYI colors are not what is in the harness, ill update this thread when i get the pinout of what color wire corresponds to the colors here.

Obviously red is +12V and black is Ground. the lime and purple are the triggers for (1 and 4) and (2 and 3)

You Rock Dude !!!

Prop'd :bigtu:

:D

also 100 Posts WOOOT (I use the search so no dumb questions :p )

So what are you sayin' :squint:

I'm saying I am a part of a minority that doesn't make threads because I didn't search. You're welcome lol

OK people, i just got it all wired up and installed, but its not starting. This diagram I made a derp in that I made 2 plugs at the oem coils. Looking at my car its just 1 plug with 3 wires. The 2 signals (1 and 4) and (2 and 3) and the +12V. Ill update the drawing tomorrow. But still from the wiring diagram I made it should fire and run, but I am getting nothing. :/ Ill be doing some diagnostics this week.

here is the updated drawing:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426733250

OKOKOK I got it going running like a baws!

My issue was that I was leaving the stock power igniter plugged in (derp). You can use the 3 pin plug near the coil, but to do so, you must just outer 2 pins on the 8 pin stock igniter plug. This allows the trigger signal to be sent to the 3 pin plug, making the wiring shorter, and no need to hack up your stock parts :D

After more testing, I plan on getting all the exact wire dimensions, part numbers, etc. and making a diy, not to undercut the fab9 pieces (they are quite nice), but to undercut the fab9 pieces (they are quite pricey) and for those who dont want to have to hard wire in their plugs. (reversibility is a nice thing :) ) I was also depressed by the lack of information on wiring for these types of coils in the miata community. Going else where and just looking at how they operate was how I did it, but having a nice DIY will help others who dont like nor want to use the toyota coils.

remember that when using these coils, you need plugs that have the screw off head, since these are originally motorcycle coils (smaller accepting point in coil). Denso makes some good ones.

Hello guys...I received the Fab9 COP kit which I proceeded to install to my car that was already having coil pack problems(had swapped mine with a friends one and most of issues went away).

* The car is 1991 with an DIYAutotune MSPnP *

The kit was great quality, followed the instructions(after doing the stupid mistake on wiring them to...nowhere once) and the car was now starting and running smoothly. Drove the car hard for literally 24h and I now have to issues:

a) The RPM/tach signal doesn't work. Connected the 1k Ohm 0.25 Watt resistor exactly as the diagram asks but I get no tach signal at all RPM is dead.

All wires are hardwired after the 8 pin igniter connector directly to the car's harness and all cop related readings and operation feel and look fine.


b) After 24h with the car running with cops the alternator light came on and apparently the alternator is not charging. This could be random failure but since the only thing changed -from the electric side of things- was this wanted to know if it could be somehow connected.


Tried to contact Fab9 about the RPM/tach signal issue that shouldn't actually exist since wiring is following instructions to the letter but no success...

Ok, well, not to dig up an old thread but I wanted to post some PDF's for anyone that wants to make a braket to hold down the coils. Also here are some rough measurements as well.

Valve Cover Bolt size - ~7mm diameter
Spark plug hole size - ~1in
Front of Valve Cover to 1st bolt - ~1.5 inches
First bolt to first plug - ~35mm
Between each plug hole - ~85mm
Between SP hole 2 and bolt 2 - ~43mm
Between bolt 2 and SP hole 3 - ~43 mm
Between SP 4 and bolt 3 - unknown (see below)

- Used a 1x5 in by 36" piece of flat bar aluminum from Home Depot
- I created this in illustrator (first time doing it) and put it on two 8.5x11 sheets of paper. Printed those out, and aligned them in the window and then verified 85mm between SP hole 3 and 4.
- Taped and used a center punch to mark the holes, then drilled the 4 SP holes using a 1" hole saw (not great, seemed to of destroyed the 1" bit, but it worked)
- Rather than drilling the VC bolt holes, I did a method mentioned earlier. A dab of grease on the 3 bolt heads, and pressed the flat bar down to mark the holes (see photos) While not great,and not producing a 100% square bracket/mount, again it works

Someone sells this bracket for $40 + shipping (trackspeed maybe?) I am $30 into it after the flat stock and hole saw, and still need some hardware. Probably should have just bought it from TS, but if you have the hole saw and or flat stock already this may help.

The ZIP file contains the Illustrator files as well as the PDF's

If you want to use this as a starting point and make it better, please do!

So, reading through the thread I'm noticing bits and pieces of LS coil information, but not a ton. Maybe i missed it! anyway, i was wondering if anyone has made the LS coil a coil on plug, i used a protege boot and a Miata stock boot together and it fits nice and snug. But i can't help but think someones already done it and has a better way. Google only pulls up the FM and SadFab style mounts. Does this look familiar to anyone else coil setup?https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dbb6248898.jpg

Well, that's one way to make your plug wires shorter.

Pretty cool. lets see a pic of the boot set up.

I like it. I would come up with a way to bolt them down though. I've had cops come loose before.

This. Times eleventybillion.

I :likecat:'d you BRG21, don't fail me now.

Agreed. I even had plug wires work loose. But those coils look to have brackets, so it shouldn't be too hard to fab something.

Hey guys! I apologize, haven't been on all day. Anyway i went on another junkyard hunt for a boot that might work better. What i came up with was a book off a Dodge Intrepid. it needs to be trimmed down just a bit but it works. But to be honest, Im not a fan of how it sits and really would rather do the Protege/Miata setup. Anyway, here are the pictures! I agree with you guys about the mounts, it fairly easy to make some sing they come with brackets.
(Dodge boot striped) (miata/protege boot is two piece)https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...859a729ea1.jpgProtege/Miata
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d61cf89239.jpgProtege/Miata
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a6eed4d735.jpgProtege/Miata
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...043b9d19e9.jpgDodge
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c1702d2afc.jpgComparison

I like this idea BRG21!
Do you thing there will be any hood clearance issues by the time you get the wire loom on?
The right bracket might allow a longitudinal piece to attach the wire loom in a neat fashion?
Could be a great idea!
Props!

I don't think there will be any hood clearance issues as all considering the SadFab mount sits on top of the valve cover bump and is considerably taller than this setup, wiring and all.

Hello everyone, thank you for the great information resource ! One of my ignition coils appears to be going out, so I'm probably going to switch to COP. I've looked through most of the thread, but I can't find this info - is the trigger signal from the Miata positive or negative? As far as I understand, most igniters have both positive and negative input, but the COP have only one input. Do the Toyota COP take positive or negative trigger signal?

I'm going to assume when you say positive and negative you mean a logic high or low signal. Miata coils are triggered by a 5v logic high signal.

I have about 7 Toyota COPS and a bracket for a 1.6 for sale.

PM sent

Thank you, I don't think it's worth it with the delivery costs, I'm gonna by some from around here. The other thing I'm considering is to use an old school separate Igniter, like on the 90-93 mk1 model, and use it with two old school large coils cause they are very cheap - 5-10$ a piece. That's why I'm asking about the trigger signal, cause apparently I'd have to search for an Igniter that takes positive pulse.

Oh, please realize I was not trying to buy these out from under you. Adiandj had 7 and I only wanted 1 or 2 of them.

I thought I would contribute a picture of my economy Toyota coil setup. still running stock engine management, noticed a huge difference worth every penny. note that there is some temporary foam under the bracket till I get a hold of some thing a little more permanent. also I should add there is a spacer under the strip holding the valve cover down and leaving a 2mm space between the coils and the bar for the foam to fill. any one have any thoughts on where to by 400 degree adhesive backed foam padding?

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...445e00f29b.jpg

Use silicone rubber instead.

I bought a used toyota COP setup for my 1.6, and cylinders 1 and 2 are not firing. I would understand if 1 and 4 or 2 and 3 weren't firing because they share the same trigger. I have swapped around coils and still no spark on 1 and 2. Any suggestions on where to begin testing?

Check continuity in the harness for coils 1 and 2.

A quick continuity check shows that 1 and 3 and 2 and 4 are incorrectly triggered together. I could swap 1 and 2, but the harness is too short. Guess its time to break out the soldering iron.

Hey all, I completed my basic Toyota cops build with no problems thanks to info here. One change I did was go for the new coil pack connectors that Ballenger offers: CONN-86032.
This gives plug and play on the 94 and up coil pack plugs on the car side. ( Didn't see any one else posting about this yet on this thread).

Here's the process I did (how to video format):

NGK VAG cop's on a 97 NA 1.6
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d3a2d2fc23.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...08c570c161.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b37a34728d.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8d6cd75f86.jpg